
^LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



^ ■ — -_ — i^-^j — - 

I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



PRINCIPLES AND RULES FOR THE CULTURE OF 
VEGETABLES, FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND SHRUBBERY. 

TO WHIOII ARE ADDED 

DRIEF NOTES ON FARM CROPS, WITH A TABLE OF THEIR AVERAGE 
PRODUCT AND CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS. 



BY ALEXANDER WATSON. 



,4 



, SUtjstrateb. 

.1 ' 



1 " And the Lord God planted a j^aiden." — Gen., ii., 8. 



NEW YORK: 
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN SQUARE. 

186 0. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight 
hundred and fifty-nine, by 

HARPER & BROTHERS, 

in the Clerk's OiRce of the District Court of the Southern District of 

New York. 






b 






DEDICATION. 



To those young men and women of the Union Avho would 
make their present or prospective homes rich with the com- 
forts, bright with the beauties, and fragrant with the sweets 
that a garden may be made to yield, this work is respectfully 
dedicated by their sincere friend, 

The Author. 



PREFACE. 



It is related of one Eliezar, in proof of the vastness of his 
knowledge, that " he made not less than three hundred consti- 
tutions concerning the manner of cultivating cucumbers," The 
author of the following work has no ambition to rival or to im- 
itate Eliezar. He has aimed to present, in a digested and plain 
form, such directions and information as will, if applied, enable 
any one who has a garden to supply the home table with its 
pleasant and healthful products at the least possible outlay of 
labor and expense, and add choice fruits and flowers to the fam- 
ily stock of rational, cheap, every-day enjoyments. 

He has sought to instruct his readers by general principles 
and directions rather than by extended details, believing that 
the good sense of those for whom he wTites will readily and 
under standingly apply them, with or without modifications, as 
the circumstances of soil, season, or latitude may require. 
With much less labor he might have made a book twice as 
large, and not half as intelligible. 

The time of planting the principal corn-crop forms an iso- 
thermal line throughout the various latitudes, and may there- 
fore serve as a kind of equator for the cultivator in respect to 
the times, earlier or later, for putting in garden crops ; and 
this circumstance has been, to some extent, taken advantage of 
in the directions given in this work, so that it will be found 
intelligible and suitable in any latitude or locality. Adapta- 
tion to this generality of use has also been consulted in the 
enumeration of insects, and their remedies or preventives. 

The details of the culture of fruit, flowers, and shrubbery are 



VI PREFACE, 

more fully elaborated than might otherwise have been deemed 
necessary, with the view of inducing our youth to give some 
attention to them ; by their own skill and labor multiplying 
around the homes of their boyhood those pleasant associations 
and enjoyments, the fragrant and ever- blooming memories of 
which may yield them refreshment in the dusty road of after- 
life. 

Additional interest might be given to such efforts by obtain- 
ing the seeds, or scions, or grafts from scattered school or class- 
mates. With the cheap mail facilities we now possess, there 
seems to be no reason why there should not be, through this 
channel, an extensive annual interchange of grafts of valuable 
fruits, and flower and vegetable seeds, between the different 
parts of our country. 

With the still farther hope that his book may find a famil- 
iar place in many a farm home, the author has added brief 
notes on farm crops, with the modes of estimating their value, 
etc., and a table of their chemical analyses. 

In preparing the limited selections of the various fruits con- 
tained in this volume, the author has been aided by the treat- 
ises of Downing, Cole, Thomas, Elliott, and others. In the de- 
scriptions given of particular insects he has o ten availed him- 
self of the reports of Dr. Asa Fitch, made to the Legislature of 
New York, on the noxious and other insects of the state, and 
the report on the insects of Massachusetts, made to the Legis- 
lature of that state, by the late Dr. T. W. Harris ; while for 
most of the illustrative drawings which form an important fea- 
ture of the work he is indebted to his wife, and has pleasure 
in acknowledging the obligation. His thanks are also due to 
the engraver for the general truthfulness and excellence of the 
illustrations, some of which presented peculiar difficulties in 
their execution ; and to the publishers for the liberality and 
taste with which the work is got up. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Plan. — The Garden. — Form, Aspect, Fencing, Protection, &c. — Mechanical 
Preparation of various Soils, Draining, Plowing, &c Page 13 

CHAPTER II. 
Appendages. — Garden-house, Pit, Frame, Cold Bed, Hot Bed, &c 26 

CHAPTER III. 
Implements of common Culture from Plow to Dibber 38 

CHAPTER IV. 

Sources of Vegetation. — Elements of Vegetable and Animal Life. — Ma- 
nuring and Manuixs, Composts, etc 59 

CHAPTER V. 

Reproduction in wild and cultivated Plants. — Vitality of Seeds dependent 
on certain conditions 66 

CHAPTER VI. 

Vegetable Forms, Importance of; Original ; Improvements in. — Vegeta- 
bles, Color of; Deterioration of; Stock or Character of. 69 

CHAPTER VII. 

Fertilization, in perfect, monoecious, and dioecious Flowers. — Necessary to 
the Production of perfect Seed. — Modes of natural and artificial Fertil- 
ization. — Production of new Varieties of Vegetables 74 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Sowing, Manner of; Time of; Depth of, etc. — Combination of Vegetable 
Crops. — Transplanting, Ridging, Hilling, etc 82 

CHAPTER IX. 

Insects; general Characteristics of ; Changes of ; Prevalence of. — Means of 
Defense and Offense against them 94 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. 

Insects injurious to Garden Vegetables, &c. — Aphides. — Larvae, or Worms. 
—Moles Page 99 

CHAPTER XI. 

Vegetables for the Garden, &c., with Descriptions, and Directions for their 
Culture. — Assortment of Seeds for a Family Garden 114: 

CHAPTER XII. 

Fruits. — Effect of Soil, Climate. — Shape of, Color, Flavor, Specific Gravity. 
— ^Fruit-trees; selecting Varieties, bearing Qualities, new Kinds 189 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Propagation of Fruit-trees by Seeds, Cuttings, Layei"s, &c. — Various 
Stocks for Fruit-trees 195 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Implements for Pruning, Budding, and Grafting 207 

CHAPTER XV. 
Nature of Budding. — Bud Scions. — Stocks for, and Modes and Times of 
Budding. — After-treatment, &c 218 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Grafting. — Grafting large Trees, &c. — Various Modes and Times of Graft- 
ing. — After-treatment 225 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Setting out Trees, preparing Holes, &c. — Tables of Arrangement of Dis- 
tances, Area, «&c. — After-culture. — Combination of Fruits 243 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Pruning ; various Objects, Periods, and Modes of. — Cleaning and Scrap- 
ing Fruit-trees. — Fruiting; healthful Tendency to. — -The Law of prema- 
ture or forced Fruiting, and various Modes of its Application 251 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Diseases of Fruit-trees. — Insects injurious to Fruit and Fruit-trees, with 
Remedies. — Washes to destroy Insects 259 

CHAPTER XX. 
Fruits in alphabetical Order, in their Varieties, with Descriptions and Di- 
rections for their Culture 286 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Flowers, Shrubs, &c., of various Classes. — Propagation of Flowers, &c., by- 
Cuttings, Layers, Budding, and Grafting. — Soils and Composts for Flow- 
ers. — Select Lists of Flowers of various Classes. — Treatment of Plants in 
House and Green-house, Heating Apparatus, &c. — Select Lists of hardy 
Shrubs, Roses, Climbing Shrubs, Evergreens, Shade-trees, &c., with Di- 
rections for their Propagation and Culture Page 434 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Brief Notes on Farm Crops, with Table of Quantities of Seed required per 
Acre. — Crop estimated by its Money Value, and by its Capacity to support 
Animal Life. — Table of average Product of various Farm Crops, and of 
their chemical Constituents. — Remarks explanatory of the Table 495 

ADDENDA. 

Forcing Vegetables, &c. — Training Fruit-trees .507 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER I. 

Plan.— The Garden.— Form, Aspect, Fencing, Protection, &c.— Mechanical 
Preparation of various Soils, Draining, Plowing, &c. 



PLAN OF GARDEN. 
Fig. 1. 



lAl ^r^Vr^ L" 



G 


H (5 


1 ' 


'2 

F 


K 


k- 


F 

3 

1 -y 


4< 

J 



A, Garden House. 

B, Pit. 

C, Cold Bed. 

D, Hot Bed. 

E, North Border. 

F, F, F, East, West, and South nar- 
row Borders. 



G, G, Entrances. 

H, North Border Path. 

I, I, I, East, West, and South Border 

Paths. 
J, J, Centre Path north and south. 
K, K, Centre Path east and west, 

temporary or permanent. 



14 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

THE GARDEN. 

FORM, ASPECT, ARRANGEMENT, &C. 

There is, of course, no absolute rule for either the size, 
shape, aspect, or arrangement of a garden ; each one may follow, 
in each of these respects, the dictates of possibility, convenience, 
or fancy. But, keeping in view the main purpose of this work 
as a directory for an American home garden, I have given a plan 
suitable for gardens of various sizes, and such directions for 
their general arrangements, as will, if adopted, economize labor, 
and afford facilities for successful culture; 

It is desirable that the garden spot be nearly level, and if 
with a gentle descent toward the south or southeast, so much 
the better. 

If convenience and other considerations permit, it is very de- 
sirable that your garden be located upon high and dry land, 
rather than in a low and more moist spot. In moist valleys, 
and even from the small dished hollows in a lot otherwise level 
and dry, the greater amount and rapidity of evaporation causes 
the early fall and late spring frosts, which so often injure crops. 
They result from the operation of the same principle upon 
which, by the rapid evaporation of ether, ice may" be formed 
even in the sunlight of a summer day. They " fall in the hol- 
lows," as it is familiarly expressed, and are avoided by choosing 
an elevated and dry spot for the garden. 

Should any one, disliking the simplicity of the plan given, 
desire to have his vegetable gai'den cut up into small beds or 
fanciful forms, he will find it easy to do it, or hire it done to 
his satisfaction. On the other hand, the " mechanical prepara- 
tion" may be less thorough than that proposed, the " protec- 
tion" omitted, and the " appendages" entirely dispensed with, 
and the garden be yet made to yield an abundant retm^n, if the 
directions in regard to planting and culture are observed. 

In form the garden may be square, or nearly so, an oblong 
form perhaps being preferable, of which the measurement east 
and west is somewhat greater than north and south. 

The garden-house, if you should build one, with the other 
appendages described p. 26 and onward, should occupy the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 15 

northwest corner, and if the garden be not fenced on the north, 
as directed p. 17, a high, close fence must be continued east- 
ward from the garden-house, at least so far as may suffice to 
shelter your pit (B), your cold bed (C), and your hot bed (D) 
from the northerly winds. 

Eastwardly from the pit, &c., along the north fence, a border 
(E), ten or twelve feet wide, should be made for the raising of 
early and tender vegetables, &c. ; a portion of it may also be 
appropriated to early strawberries and asparagus. 

To make it more suitable for these purposes, if the ground 
have no natural descent to the south, it should be made to slope 
by raising it gradually until the back of the border is six or 
eight inches higher than the front. It must also be kept in 
the highest possible condition by the application of warm, stim- 
ulating manures. (See p. 60.) 

Entirely across the garden, along the front of this border, 
should extend a path at least six feet wide (H), at either or 
each end of which may be an entrance (G, G). In a small gar- 
den no other path will be found absolutely necessary ; but, if 
deemed desirable or expedient, a border three or four feet wide 
may be made along either side, or all the other sides of the 
garden (E, F, F), with accompanying paths two or three feet 
in width (I, I, I). In addition to these, a wider path may run 
north and south through the centre (J). On either side of 
these latter paths, and on the south side of the former, such ar- 
ticles as are ordinarily sown in small beds or plots may be 
raised, strawberry beds may be made, and the various fruit-trees 
and bushes which properly find a place in a vegetable garden 
may be planted, the whole being interspersed with such flowers 
and shrubs as may suit the taste of the owner. The relative 
positions and proportions of the difierent kinds of fruit-trees 
and shrubbery introduced may be varied to suit the individual 
fancy, but the aggregate should by no means be large, if we 
would have a garden that will yield full crops of choice vegeta- 
bles. Nothing interferes more with the free growth and con- 
sequent excellence of vegetables than the roots of trees running 
in the same soil, the eJOfect of which is often but erroneously 
attributed to their shade. 



16 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

If thought desirable, additional temporary paths may be 
made, as at K, K in the plan, and edged with annual herbs or 
flowers for the season. These are to be disregarded in the 
spring plowing, and may be renewed or not, at will ; or, if the 
garden is dug and not plowed in the spring, they may be made 
permanent. All vegetables sown or planted in the garden, 
whether in rows or hills, should, if possible, be ranged north 
and south ; the making of small beds in the main divisions 
should be avoided, and the rows be as few and as long as the 
arrangement of the garden, and the necessity for fully cropping 
the ground will permit. This will save much otherwise wasted 
labor, and allow more readily of advantageously second crop- 
ping those portions from which early peas, &c., &c., may have 
been removed ; and with a farther view to this, crops that will 
matm'e early should be arranged together, so that as large a 
space as possible for recropping may lie in one spot, instead of 
having many mere fragments ; also, all crops that are intended 
to stand out over winter should be arranged in one section side 
by side. 

All permanent paths should be edged either with box kept 
in order by an annual trimming with the dressing-shears, or 
with a narrow strip of sod, carefully prevented from spreading 
by the use of the grass-edger, and kept cut short with the 
grass-hook, or any hardy perennial plant of dwarf growth that 
will bear the necessary trimming without injmy may be used 
for this purpose. If box is planted, though its smell is quite 
unpleasant to some persons, open a trench along the edge of the 
border into the pathway as large and wide as the ordinaiy furrow 
of a two-horse plow, the garden-line being stretched along the 
edge of the border, and the back of the trench cut square down 
by it, and perfectly true to the line. Old box edging, which 
will be a foot or more long, must then be taken and divided by 
tearing it asunder, or so spreading it that one yard will plant 
three or four ; lay in the butts across the ti-ench toward the cen- 
tre of the path, so that only one or two inches of the young growth 
may remain above the line. As it is laid in and held with the 
left hand, put earth upon it with the right, and either with 
the knee or foot press it solid and secure to its place, so bend- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 17 

ing the stems in the process as to bring the points almost or 
quite upright. After the whole is planted, fill up the trench, 
treading the earth lightly as it is filled in, and finish by a 
firm but shufiling tread along with one foot on each side of the 
newly-planted row, and close to it. It should then be dressed 
with the shears to an even height, and if the season prove 
very dry, water it until it is out of danger. If planted in the 
fall, the dressing should be deferred until spring. 

FENCING. 

Having determined the size and form of your garden, inclose 
it on the north and west sides with a high, close board fence, 
and on the east and south sides either with close fence or 
picket. 

Hedges combining ornament with additional protection may 
be planted along the inside of these latter fences, and, if pre- 
ferred, along the west fence also. They may be of arborvitae, 
cedar, cypress, cydonia japonica, privet, pepperidge, the buck- 
thorn, either Em-bpean or American, the Washington thorn, or 
the Osage orange ; to which list may be added, for the warmer 
latitudes, the sweet bay, the euonymus japonica, the pomegran- 
ate, and others. The common and honey locusts, though 
beautiful, grow too strongly for this jjurpose ; and the haw- 
thorn, though effective where secm-ity is the chief object, is 
excluded by its scalded and unsightly appearance in the sum- 
mer and faW. 

In making young hedges, the plants may be set either in a 
single row at six inches apart, or a foot apart in a double row, 
and alternated so that the actual intervals will still be only 
six inches ; and if the plants are slightly sloped in the setting 
out, the growth will probably thicken sooner. 

PROTECTION. 

Whether hedges are planted or not, if you would make the 
thing perfect, unless hills or woods already protect it, plant a 
belt consisting of a double or triple row, or more, of evergreens, 
of such varieties as you may prefer, along the outside of the 
fence on the east, north, and west sides. Let this belt over- 



18 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

lap at the entrances, so as to exclude all winds except the 
southerly. Set the trees pretty closely together, and the pro- 
tection afforded when they grow up will enable you to sow and 
plant with safety from one to two weeks earlier than would 
otherwise be expedient, and in a majority of seasons the ma- 
turing of your crops will be equally advanced. The birds, too, 
your best friends in garden or orchard, will winter with you, 
which friends do not always, and be ready to enter with you 
upon the labors of spring. 

MECHANICAL PREPARATION. 
In making a new garden, it is desirable, if it be possible, to 
effect Avhatever meclianical preparation it may require before 
fencing it. If the plot selected be a deep rich soil, free from 
stone, a thorough and deep plowing is sufficient. If a deep 
free soil and subsoil, but not rich, manm-e heavily and trench- 
plow it. If the soil be shallow, and the subsoil very compact, 
or a hardpan, yet free from stone, manure heavily and trench- 
plow as directed (page 23), running, however, a subsoil plow 
ahead of the second stroke, and following it wdth the same to 
loosen it still deeper, if you think expedient. See Subsoil 
Plowing. A subsequent cross - plowing with the common 
plow, followed by the subsoiler, will perfect the preparatory 
Avork. Should the soil of your garden plot be stony, it must 
be trenched at least eighteen inches deep, and all stones taken 
out that are too lai^ge to be gathered by the rake in the course 
of ordinary cultivation ; but if trenching is found necessary, it 
may be done in sections at any time after the plot is fenced. 
If the soil of your plot is a moderately light loam, when en- 
riched it will become a perfect garden soil. If it be strong 
loam, repeated and high manuring with stable and other stim- 
ulating manm-e will steadily imjDrove it. If it be heavy loam 
or clay, cart on sand or road-wash as freely as you can from 
time to time, and manure often and highly. If, on the con- 
trary, the soil is sandy, cart on loam or clay, and mix it well 
by repeated plowing and harrowing, using at the same time 
cow and hog manm-e, leached ashes, marl, or swamp muck, 
avoiding the use of barn-yard or stable manure, unless in com- 
liost, or when perfectly rottc<l. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



19 



In estimating the quantity of sand or its opposite required 
for changing the mechanical character of soil, it may be reck- 
oned that 247 cubic yards of earth will cover an acre to the 
depth of two inches. 



DRAINING. 

Fig. 2. 




A, A. The line of ooze. F, F. Side drains. ^^'^ 

B, B. Diagonal drains. G, G, G, G. Points of discharge on 

C, Side drain. the surface. 

D, D, D. Points of discharge on the H. Blind ditch. 

surface. 1. Covered stone drain. 

E, Double pitch drain. J. Covered pipe drain. 

It is sometimes found necessary or convenient to make a 
garden in a wet spot. Li such a case, draining, though requir- 
ing considerable labor, is indispensable. 

If the spot be a dead level, in which it is only necessary or 
possible to sink the water from the surface, surround your gar- 
den on the outside of the fence with an open ditch of such 



20 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

depth and "width as you may deem sufficient for the pm'pose, 
always making the depth of your open ditch equal to its width 
at the surface, and grading the sides so as to make the width 
of the bottom equal to one third of the depth. If required, let 
blind ditches or covered drains, as deep as the ojien ditch, and 
discharging into it, be made to underlie the intersecting paths, 
as J, J, K, K in the garden plan. Upon descending ground, the 
main drains or blind ditches should not be made either parallel 
with the slope or at right angles to it. In the former case 
they will be of little service, and in the latter will be liable to 
stoppages from want of current, which may convert them into 
mere dams, forcing the water to the surface at a lower point. 
If, then, the ground of your plot be sloping, and the Avater ooz- 
ing to the surface, note carefully the upper edge of the line of 
ooze (A, A, Fig. 2), which is simply the natm-al drainage, 
whose cuiTent flows always in the direction of the ground 
slope. At an average distance of tAventy feet above the upper 
edge of the ooze cut a blind ditch or drain three or four feet 
deep (B 1, Fig. 2), running diagonally across the plot to the 
side drain, C ; or if it can be done with less labor, omit the 
side drains, and carry it outside of the fence, letting it dis- 
charge upon the surfiicc at D. This may either be doubled, 
as B 1, B 2, D, D, or changed in form, as E, F, F, G, G, G, G, 
the latter mode being especially useful when the wet spot is in 
a hollow or dishing form. 

BLIND DITCHES. 
A blind ditch (H) should be cut in the same form as above 
directed for the outside open ditch around the garden plot ; 
w^hen it is thus opened, throw in by hand small loose smfiice 
stones, say from one to ten pounds in weight, until it is one 
third or one half filled Avith them ; over these lay small brush, 
or shavings, or straAv, or sod Avith the grass side doAvn, and fill 
up Avith the eai'th that came out, rounding it a little directly 
over the drain to prevent surface water settling into it Avhile 
the Avork is fresh. 



AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN. 21 



COVERED DRAINS. 

These are formed by setting flat stones edgewise along each 
side in the ditch, and fitting a covering of the same to rest 
upon them. Over this hollow drain, stones, such as are suita- 
ble for blind ditches, may be thrown, so far as seems conven- 
ient or desirable, the whole being covered with the earth and 
rounded as above directed for the blind ditch, thus combining 
the advantages of both forms of draining (I). The ditch for a 
covered drain need not be cut so wide at the surface as an open 
or a blind ditch, but may have the sides nearly perpendicular ; 
and where flat stones can not be readily obtained, the drain- 
pipes or tiles made by the potters may be used (J). 

PLOWING. 

The plow and harrow, wherever it is practicable to use them, 
are the most efficient known instruments in the proper prepa- 
ration of the soil for the reception of seeds or plants. Much 
has been said and written to demonstrate the superiority of the 
spade, but it has not come into general use as a substitute, and 
is now less likely than ever to do so. Repeated deep, narrow- 
sliced plowing and thorough harrowing are, beyond question or 
comparison, the best means that w^ possess for thoroughly pul- 
verizing the soil, and so reducing its particles as to prepare 
them to enter into the composition of plants. How to plow 
well must be learned. Happy the youth who, to his other 
learning, willingly adds this. Plowing should be performed 
when the earth will crumble as it is turned up. The old 
Roman maxim, "Plow stripped, sow stripped," is a good, 
though not an absolute rule. Fall plowing, either plain or 
ridged, may be done without injury, even though the ground 
be pretty wet and the weather cold, the frosts of winter coun- 
teracting the ill eifect that in other circumstances would re- 
sult. But the cultivator who in spring turns up a wet, smooth, 
heavy furrow-slice to the bright, strong sun, will find his sea- 
son's labor largely increased or his crop a failure. 

Plowing should be performed with a strong team. On all 
good soils, and especially in a garden, it should be from twelve 



22 ARTERICA]^ HOME GARDEN, 

to fifteen inches deep. What is called " cut and cover" plow- 
ing must be carefully avoided. The furrow-slice should be 
narroAv, not much exceeding two thirds the width from the fore 
end of the land-side to the outer corner of the share. It should 
not be laid over quite flat, but at an angle of about forty-five 
degrees, Avhich, for the benefit of very young readers I remark, 
is represented by each pair of lines radiating from the centre 
of this star ^. No care need be taken in plowing to fill any 
in-egular holes that may happen to remain, nor efibrt of any 
kind made to help the plow perform its work, unless it be to 
foot over an obstinate tussock or sod. Smoothness is not an 
excellence in plowing. The land so plowed should be left for 
a time in its rough state, open to the influence of the sun and 
air ; when, after thorough haiTowing, it may be re-plowed or 
dug, as may be found suitable for the particular crop. 

HARROWING. 

Harrowing should be done after the land has lain plowed a 
week or more, as it may require, and, if practicable, when the 
surface soil is not dusty, but only moderately dry and perfectly 
friable. The " tritm-ation" and reduction of the soil by the 
harrow will be more perfect when in this state than if quite 
dry ; and if it should be wet, the harrowing must not be done 
except under a pressing necessity. 

The first stroke of the harrow should always be " Avith," or 
in the same direction as the fuiTow ; the subsequent strokes 
crossing it and each other at right angles, or obliquely, until 
the work is satisfactorily done. 

RIDGING. 
Ridging is performed with the common plow by throwing 
two furrows together, which thus meet upon and overlap a 
space about as wide as each of them ; or with the spade, by 
digging the two furrows, and laying the earth up in ridge form 
upon the intervening space. In very light soils, which, how- 
ever, should never be ridged for winter, or in the preparation 
of plowed land for crop ridging, the work is sometimes done by 
the use of a large and pretty strong double-mould plow, which 
seems to save half the labor, but seldom does its work avcII. 



AMERICAN HOMK GARDEN. 28 

Strong loam or clay land, which, if plowed or dug in the 
fall and laid flat, might be injured rather than benefited, is 
greatly improved by careful ridging for winter, particularly if 
lime, ashes, or manure, or all of them, be previously applied, and 
are covered up or incoi-porated in the process of ridging. 

SUBSOIL PLOWING. 

In subsoil plowing, a deep furrow turned with the common 
plow is followed by another in the same track with the subsoil 
plow (Fig. 17, p. 39), which, being without mouldboards, simply 
loosens the subsoil without throwing it up to the sm-foce. The 
convenient and obvious mode of performing it is to have two 
teams, the one with the subsoiler following the other in its 
rounds. 

The depth of the two furrows may easily reach eighteen 
inches. 

TRENCH PLOWING. 

Trench plowing is performed by two teams following one an- 
other, as in subsoiling, but with common mouldboard plows, the 
mouldboard of the last, or trench-fm'row plow, being generally 
somewhat longer than the first. It may, however, be well done 
with a good plow and one team, by simply plowing first to the 
depth of nine or ten inches, and repeating the stroke in the 
same furrow with longer gearing. It should be done with a 
steady team, and the plow be driven as deeply as two strokes in 
the same furrow can be made to carry it. 

TRENCHING. 

Trenching maji be performed on a small or large plot with 
equal proportionate convenience. If, therefore, it is found nec- 
essary to the proper preparation of the garden plot, it may be 
deferred until the fencing is completed, or even be done gradu- 
ally through a series of years, after the garden is used. 

It consists simply in marking ofi" from the end or side of any 
given field or piece of land of even width a strip, say two feet 
wide, and digging it out, and carting it or wheeling it to the 
opposite end or side, where it must be laid in a row all along. 



24 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

that it may be ready to fill up the last trench at the completion 
of the job, the earth that comes from the bottom layer or layers 
being dumped in a separate ridge, a little beyond that taken 
from the sm-face, so that the latter may be conveniently put first 
into the bottom of the last trench. 

K the depth proposed be eighteen inches, let the spade be 
driven full ten inches deep in taking ofi" the first layer ; then, 
with a good sharp shovel, let the " crumbs" or loose earth be 
taken out, cutting the bottom a little as you go, which Avill 
deepen the trench another inch ; then dig another spade-length 
deep, and the work is done. 

If, however, the subsoil is so hard that the second layer can 
not be dug out with the spade, the pick and shovel must be 
used, and if the necessary depth can not be attained by one op- 
eration with these implements, it must be repeated. 

Ha\dng this first trench completed, another equal space is 
marked off, and another, and another, to the end, the earth from 
each being regularly turned over into the excavation that pre- 
ceded it, by a precise repetition of the process of digging and 
shoveling above described, the surface-earth being thrown into 
the bottom of the trench, and the lower stratum on the top of 
it, with some care to keep the side of the loose earth laid up 
square, and the top of the ncAV layer nearly level, until you 
come to that which was carted back, which fills up and finishes 
the whole. 

. By this operation the body of earth is more completely turned 
upside down than is possible in plowing; and in the process 
stones can be thoroughly gathered out, and any desired quan- 
tity of manure may be mixed in by spreading it upon the suc- 
cessive layers after they are turned into tli£ trench. If the 
soil is really poor, this should not, on any account, be neglected. 

DIGGING. 

In certain circumstances we must resort to digging instead 
of plowing, and in the garden, particularly, it is almost exclu- 
sively used in the preparation of the ground, or in working be- 
tween certain crops in wide rows. It is performed with the 
spade (Fig. 37, p. 48), or a strong fork made for the purpose, and 



AMERICAN HOME GAEDEN. 25 

called a spade-fork (Fig. 50, p. 54). The depth of digging, in 
experienced hands, seldom exceeds ten inches, and the inexpe- 
rienced will rarely go so deep. A careless digger will some- 
times make the thickness of his spade-slice equal to its depth, 
and, in consequence, will very imperfectly move much of the 
lower portion of it. As a general rule, let the thickness of the 
slice be equal to half the length of the blade you use, and the 
work will probably be well done. 

If the handle of the implement used be not too long (Fig. 37, 
p. 48), digging affords perhaps the very perfection of bodily ex- 
ercise for the convalescing invalid or the dyspeptic. It gives 
exercise to the chest and abdomen, and calls almost every mus- 
cle of the body into action, yet is so entirely measm-able in its 
degree that it may become the amusement of a child or a task 
for a strong man. 

As with the plow, so with the spade, land may be properly 
dug or ridged in the fall, even though it be pretty Avet, But 
in the spring the earth should not be dug when the surface is 
wet, nor until, on being turned up, the body of the soil is found 
friable. The first spring digging in the garden should be 
roughly but effectually done, no care being taken to break it up 
smaller than "egg coal" or "rubble." After lying in this 
state till it is warmed through, it will be found an advantage 
to " chop it over" as deeply as possible, either with the hoe or 
potato-hook. It may then be roughly raked preparatory to the 
second digging, or, if it be clear of stones and bad weed-roots, 
this raking may be omitted. 

When dug a second time, in preparation for the seed or 
plants, let the digging be more carefully performed, and the 
soil well pulverized in the process. If afterward, from the oc- 
currence of sudden beating rain, or other cause, it seem des-ira- 
ble to repeat the operation of chopping over, let it be done, and 
having given it a finish with the rake, it will be ready for sow- 
ing or planting. 

B 



26 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER n. 

Appendages. — Garden-house, Pit, Frame, Cold Bed, Hot Bed, &c. 

APPENDAGES. 

GARDEN-HOUSE. 

A SMALL garden-house, say twelve feet wide by twelve or 
eighteen feet long, with earthen floor, is a convenient and de- 
sirable appendage to the garden, for storing garden-pots, com- 
post for choice plants, and tools when not in use. It serves 
also for various pui-poses of in-door work, as repairing imple- 
ments, potting plants, sowing in pots when desirable, preparing 
cuttings, &c. K built in the garden, which it ought to be, it 
should be so placed as to form the northwest corner of the in- 
closure, having a shuttered window or two to the south and 
north, and a door in the east end. Inside, a work-bench should 
run almost or quite along the front or south side. On the 
right, near the door, should be fixed a bar or slat, upon which 
to hang rakes, hooks, and hoes ; also nails or pins for thi-ust- 
hoes, spades, &c. A few shelves along the back, for such pm-- 
poses as they may be found to serve, will complete the internal 
arrangement. 

The garden-house, though convenient, is not indispensable, 
if a cellar or any of the ordinary out-buildings can be used in- 
stead. On the other hand, if built, it may be furnished with a 
cellar for storing fruits and vegetables, and a frost-proof dark 
room for choice pears, &c. 

PIT. 

The pit is a sunken frame- work, covered with glass, protected 
by shutters or mats, but without artificial heat, and may be of 
wood, brick, or stone. 

To make a pit for three sashes, such as are commonly known 
as hot-bed sashes, choose a spot that will enable you to front it 
to the south or southeast. Dig out the earth about six feet 



' AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 27 

wide and ten feet long to a uniform depth of eighteen inches ; 
within this make a frame of thick plank, or slabs hewed to fit 
close, and nailed firmly to locust or chestnut posts. These 
posts should be three and a half feet long for the back, and two 
and a half feet long for the front of the frame, thus allowing it 
a slope of one foot, to which, of course, the ends must suit. Its 
inside width, when completed, will be about five feet, and its 
length about nine feet. Pack the earth lightly around it, tak- 
ing care to keep the frame at right angles ; then, with a draw- 
ing-knife and plane, finish the upper edges of the whole with a 
smooth, even slope. Prepare two cross-bars or slides for the 
sashes to nm on, made of two strips of stout plank, three inches 
in width, each having along its centre a thin strip of the same 
width nailed finnly edgcAvise, to serve as a sash-guide ; nail a 
coiTesponding strip on the outside of each end plank to serve a 
similar pm-pose, the ends themselves serving as slides. Hav- 
ing measured off the frame accurately into three divisions of 
equal width in the clear, notch or dovetail the plank cross- 
bars or slides into the frame flush with its back and front edges, 
carefully preserving the proper width of the divisions, so that 
each sash, when put on, will lie perfectly fair and snug in its 
place. Immediately underneath each of the two cross-bars, and 
fitting closely up to them, you may, if you please, set a rough 
plank or board partition, thus dividing the pit into three sepa- 
rate compartments. The packing of the earth around the frame 
may now be more thoroughly done, and, as a protection against 
some degree of cold, bank earth thickly around the pit up to 
within an inch or two of the edge of the frame, treading or 
beating it as you go to make it solid, and sloping the bank 
carefully so as to shed water. This done, fit on yovu* sashes 
properly, and cover them with board shutters or thick straw 
mats (see p. 37), or both, and your pit is ready. 

As the pit is calculated to be a permanent appendage to the 
garden, it is plain that brick or stone is greatly to be preferred 
for making it. If laid up dry with common farm stone, and 
well pointed or plastered, it will last a lifetime ; but in this 
case, or if built of brick, it will require a frame or plates for the 
sashes, which may be made of good three or four by six inch 



28 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

pine timber, well set in mortar upon the walls, and thoroughly 
painted. 

A pit is intended to serve as a place for wintering half hardy 
and even tender plants, and for blooming roses and other flowers 
earlier and later in the season than would be practicable in the 
open ground. For these purposes, the pit may be partially 
filled with leaves from the Avoods, tan, sawdust, sand, or spent 
manm-e well pulverized. If the pit is too deep for the plants, 
so much filling must be used as is needful to bring their tops 
to within ten or twelve inches of the glass, the pots being 
packed or set thoroughly into it. A pit thus filled should have 
light, and a little air admitted about noon of every bright win- 
ter day that is not too intensely cold to permit it with safety, 
increasing the amount of these as the mild days of early 
spring come on, until it becomes safe to uncover it entirely to 
the vernal showers. It should be occasionally examined 
through the winter, and defended against mice, which are apt 
to nest in it. 

When divided into compartments, as above suggested, the 
pit may readily be put to various uses. In one of these the 
spring hot bed may be made more easily and with less manure 
than when made in the common mode. For this purpose the 
manure should be evenly and solidly laid, as directed for hot 
beds, p. 30, to the depth of eighteen or twenty inches, which 
being covered with the usual depth of rich earth, will bring up 
the sm'face sufficiently near to the glass and into the sunlight. 
If two compartments are used for hot beds, the additional ad- 
vantage is gained of being able to classify your plants, sowing 
the hardier varieties, as cabbages, salad, &c., in the one, and in 
the other the tenderer, as pepper, egg-plant, &c., which require 
greater warmth and more careful treatment. (See Hot Bed.) 
One or more compartments of a pit may, if found desirable, be 
used as a " cold bed," requiring only to be filled up with rich 
earth or compost to a little higher than the natural surface of 
the ground, and then treated in all respects as directed p. 29. 

GARDEN-FRAME. 

The garden-frame is usually made of inch and a half plank, 




AMEEICAN HOME GAEDEN, 29 

Fig. 3. eighteen inches deep at the back, and 

nine inches at the front, the ends be- 
ing gradually sloped to suit. A con- 
venient width is about five and a half 
feet, though this may vary. The 
frame is divided by cross-bars three 
inches wide, notched into the upper 
edges of the back and front of the frame at say three feet one 
inch apart from centre to centre, with a thin centre-board or 
sash-guide standing edgewise, from an inch and a half to three 
inches high, along each, the two ends of the frame having 
strips nailed on to serve the purpose, as directed for pit, p. 27. 
Frames are sometimes made to hold thi-ee or four sashes, but 
it is more convenient to handle those made for only two, sev- 
eral pairs of which can be set together, if a longer bed is re- 
quired. 

The frame is carefully and strongly nailed together, or each 
part is cleated at the corners, and drawn closely together with 
hooks or links and staples, so as to be readily taken apart. 

To suit the dimensions of the frame named above, the sashes, 
which should be of inch and a half stuff, require to be about 
five feet nine inches long and three feet wide, having either 
five rows of six-inch glass or six rows of five-inch, in either 
case each sash containing about fifteen feet of glass. This 
should be of good quality, flat, and strong, and in the process 
of glazing the panes should overlap as little as possible, say 
one fourth of an inch at the most ; or, if the glass be of superior 
make, the width of the lap need not exceed the thickness of 
the pane. 

The garden-frame so made and sashed is used to form of 
itself a cold bed, or to place upon a hot bed for the purpose of 
raising early plants, &c. 

COLD BED. 

A cold bed is made by simply setting a garden-frame (Fig. 
3, above) in a favorable spot for your purpose, whether you 
desire sun or shade ; or it may be stationary, and provision 
made for shading it at will. For winter protection it should 



80 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



be banked around as directed for the pit (page 27), and is used 
for the same general purposes where depth is not required. 




HOT BED. 

Take fresh stable manure that is ready to heat or already 
Fig- 4. heating, and spread a thin 

layer of it upon the ground, 
of the size and form of the 
bed you wish to make, cal- 
culating this always full one 
foot longer and wider than 
the frame you intend to set 
upon it. On this spread 
other layers, mixing the 
long and short manm'e to- 
gether, and shaking it perfectly out of all large lumps or bmich- 
es in the process. Keep it equally packed and level by beating 
it over regularly, but not heavily, with the back of your four- 
pronged fork at about every third layer, filling up any soft 
spots or hollows you find. 

Keep the edges true and the comers firm, and when it at- 
tains the desired height, shovel up the loose fine manm-e around, 
and spread it evenly over the top. Set on your garden-frame 
with care, and fill in with rich earth, not throwing it in heav- 
ily or in heaps, but spreading it lightly and evenly to the depth 
of four or five inches. Rake the surface, sow your seeds in 
drills about four inches apart, and put on the sashes. Some 
defer sowing until the bed heats, but it may be safely sown at 
once ; and when the heat rises give plenty of air, not by sliding 
your sashes down, but by raising them at the back, having a 
longish triangular block or piece of plank to tilt them upon, so 
that you can open them with it two inches or five. 

In sowing your hot bed, let peppers, egg-plant, and other 
tender plants be sown together or under the same sashes, and 
cabbages, lettuces, &c., under others, so that they can receive 
more or less airing as they may require ; or set a thin board, as 
a temporary pai'tition, between them, under the cross-bar of the 
frame. Shade the bed mitil the plants are well up, and water 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 31 

regularly, but not heavily, toward evening, with water that has 
been warmed in the sun or by the fire — say to the temperature 
of fresh-drawn milk — and cover the sashes at night with shut- 
ters, and bass or straw mats, or other sufficient covering. 

Give air abundantly, but never suddenly, throughout the time 
your plants remain in the bed, uncovering them entirely during 
the day and in mild nights for a week or ten days before they 
are set out. If you pot your plants, or transfer them to a sec- 
ond hot bed, the treatment should be the same. The ordinary 
time for making hot beds near New York is from the middle 
of February to the middle of March ; but the proper time can 
be calculated any where by making the hot bed from six to 
eight weeks before the plants are needed to set out. 

CISTERN. 

Wherever it is found necessary or desirable to have the ap- 
pendages to the garden complete within itself, a cistern of such 
size as may be deemed suitable should be constructed in the 
ordinary manner, to receive the water from the garden-house 
or any neighboring out-building. Its dimensions may be six 
feet deep and five feet diameter, or nearly 900 gallons capacity ; 
or eight feet deep and six feet diameter, which will hold about 
1600 gallons ; or larger if preferred. A cheap and yet durable 
cistern may be made with the aid of an ordinary workman by 
digging a hole of the necessary size, covering the whole bottom 
with a thick layer of small stones, filled in, or rather mixed, 
with hydraulic mortar, prepared for use in the ordinary man- 
ner^ — that is, allowing two barrels of sand to each barrel of 
first-rate cement, and packing them solidly with a rammer. 
Upon the floor thus prepared set a rough plank frame, such as 
is often used in well-digging to prevent caving in, but leaving 
a space sufficient for the cistern- walls between the frame and 
the surrounding earth, and brace the frame thoroughly on the 
inside. 

Having provided a supply of rough stone, such as are com- 
monly gathered by hand from the lots or road sides, proceed to 
fill up the wall-space around the frame with them in regular 
layers, mixed, like the bottom, with hydraulic mortar, and 



32 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

rammed moderately, but so as to make It solid. Each layer 
should be carried entirely around the frame before ramming, 
care being taken to ram evenly, that the pressm'e on the frame 
may be kept equal ; and the whole work should be done as rap- 
idly as possible, mixing the mortar in small quantities as want- 
ed, that the settling and drying may be uniform. In the 
course of ten days remove the frame- work, plaster the whole 
thoroughly with cement mortar, made with one third sand and 
two thirds cement, and finish the whole by putting on the top. 
Should leaks occur subsequently, they may be stopped by a 
coat of thin cement, laid on with a whitewash-brush. 

ICE-HOUSE. 

An ice-house for family supply may be made of the same 
size and in the same manner as a cistern, having a draining- 
floor formed of rough joists or plank, under or between which 
a few inches open space is left at the bottom when the ice is 
put in, with a waste-pipe leading from it, having a plug by 
which it may be closed at its outer end. Or it may be built 
in a dry soil as a small cellar, with the above provision for 
drainage, and be closely covered by setting a roof or building 
over it. Or it may, if preferred, be built entirely above ground, 
with double siding of boards or slabs, the space between being 
packed as directed for green-house, which see. 

It should be substantially braced, and provided with an in- 
ner and outer door ; the space between these, together with the 
whole roof or floor covering it, in whatever manner it is built, 
should also be packed as directed for the sides. The draining- 
floor being first thickly covered with straw, the ice may be set 
in snugly in blocks, the spaces between them being filled with 
the fragments rammed solidly in ; or, if thin ice is used, the 
whole may be broken up and rammed, water being added from 
time to time to fill the crevices by its freezing ; the mass must 
be kept a little raised in the middle as the filling progresses, 
and the sides should be lined with straw set upright. When 
it is completed, the whole must be thickly covered with the 
same, or with sawdust, or salt hay, and kept securely closed 
until the ice is wanted. Not less than from forty to fifty 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 8:^ 

loads or cubic yards of ice should be relied on to keep well in 
a house built entirely above ground. In the cellar or cistern 
form a much smaller quantity may be preserved ; but in all 
cases, the larger the aggregate mass, the better it will keep. 

TANK. 

A tank sufficient for the purposes of a small garden may be 
made by sinking a water-tight tierce or hogshead into the 
ground, and covering it safely, having first pitched it within 
and without. For larger gardens, or where a more permanent 
tank is desired, it should be built in the same manner as a 
small, shallow cistern, having a sufficient opening to allow of 
stirring the contents or adding to them, but which ordinarily 
must be closely covered. 

For the purpose of stirring, it will be found very convenient, 
and not expensive, to set in the centre of the tank a shaft fur- 
nished within the tank with two or three pairs of arms nearly 
equal to its diameter. The upper end of the shaft should pro- 
ject four or five feet above the cover, and having a two-inch 
hole through it near the top, the contents of the tank may be 
easily stirred by turning it with a small bar. Into this tank 
the soap-suds and other waste water from the house should be 
conveyed, for the preparation of liquid manure, if needful. See 
page 64. 

WHEELBARROWS, 
Fig. 5. Fig. 6. 




Canal Wheelbarrow. Box Wheelbarrow. 

The common canal wheelbarrow, Fig. 5, is very much to be 
preferred for general purposes, though in most gardens the box 
form, with loose sides, Fig. 6, or something nearly similar, is 
still generally used. 

B2 



u 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



GAEDEN ENGINE, WATEEING-POT, AND SYEINGE. 
Fig. 7. Fig. 8. 




Garden Engine. 



Watering-pot. 



Fig. 9. 




Syringe. 

The garden engine, Fig. 7, is a small force-pump, with a pipe 
or hose of any desired and suitable length, placed in a barrel or 
water-tight box, and fitted upon a wheeled frame for the con- 
venience of removal at will to any part of the garden. It is 
used instead of watering-pot and syringe. 

The watering-pot. Fig, 8, requires no description. It is 
used with or without the rose, and a convenient size for use 
will hold about twelve quarts. 

The syringe, Fig. 9, is commonly of brass, having a small, 
delicately perforated rose (a), without which it is seldom or 
never used. It is calculated chiefly for syringing plants in the 
green-house, &c,, which would otherwise suffer from the dry heat, 

HAND AND BELL GLASSES, 

Hand glasses. Fig. 10, A, B, are made of various dimen- 
sions, from six to eighteen inches in diameter, or larger, and 
of divers forms, being square or many angled, conical or flat, 
deep or shallow. The frames are usually lead, sometimes 
strengthened by an iron bottom band, and the glass and glaz- 
ing are ordinarily of the first quality. A small hinged venti- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



85 



Fig. 10. 



Fig. 11. 



::</ ''^ 


\ A 




\>< 


i V^ 


B 


77" ■■ 


'"i>v 




/.-{ 


M 


Pi 


; i 


_.! 1 




\ 


i 




i 


'"'x 




.'" 




OJ 




Hand Glasses. — A, square ; B, octagon. 

lator (c, c) is sometimes made in the top, which, with a slight 
tilting of the lower edge, permits of airing the plants without 
uncovering them. They are used for covering newly-sown and 
delicate seeds, and newly-made cuttings, to prevent too rapid 
evaporation, or for protecting tender hilled crops, as early mel- 
ons, cucumbers, egg-plants, &c. 

Their general purposes, particularly for hilled crops, may be 
answered by an oblong or square wooden box, with a slight 
pitch to its upper end, over or into which a single large pane of 
glass is made to slide in small side grooves, so that it may be 
opened at pleasure, forming, in fact, a miniature garden-frame. 

Bell-glasses, Fig. 11, are used for the same general purposes 
as small hand-glasses, viz., to hasten and secure the vegetation 
of seeds of special character, and, in case of certain cuttings 
which do not root readily, to prevent exhaustion before they 
become prepared to obtain new supplies. They are not glazed, 
but blown, and sometimes need watching and shading, lest their 
concave surface become a burning-glass to the young plants 
they cover. 



SIEVES. 

Sieves are distin- 
guished by the number 
of meshes woven to the 
inch. 

The opposite figures 

A, \ inch mesh sieve : B, 1 inch mesh sieve. . -nt i -i 

represent JN umbers 1 
and 2, or inch and half-inch mesh, which are the only sizes 
needed in the garden or green-house ; and even these may be 
well dispensed with, unless in extraordinary cases, as where 




M) AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

stones abound in flower compost, or for the purpose of reducing 
and mixing guano or other powerful manures. 

In the preparation of compost in general, it is much better 
to mix and reduce the materials with the spade or shovel than 
with the sieve, which takes out the small lumps that, to most 
plants, are the very " tit-bits" upon which their roots fasten. 

For the purpose of cleaning flower-seeds, &c., at least two 
small sieves, of about a foot diameter, will be foimd useful ; 
one should be No. 12, and the other No. 16, to which others, 
coarser or finer, may be added, if desired. 

FLOWER-POTS. 

Flower-pots are designated by their capacity, as half pints 
(«), pints (6), quarts (c), &c. 

They are sometimes 
made too deep for their 
diameter, or too tapering 
toward the bottom. 

The proportion of their 
diameter to their depth 
should be at the top as one to one, and at the bottom as two to 
three. 

These proportions are nearly represented in Fig. d. 
They should never be glazed or over-burned, by which plants 
in them are injured, probably from exclusion of air, but should 
have the ordinary porous texture of sound brick, tlii'ough which 
air passes, and evaporation and absorption proceed naturally. 
The drainage-holes in the bottom should range from a full 
half- inch diameter in the " quarts" to a full quarter inch in 
the very smallest size. In rooms or on fancy stands they are 
placed in saucers (as Fig. c), which catch the drainage, but 
the water should not be allowed to remain in tliem, 

STRAW MATS. 

Straw mats (Fig. 14) are convenient and valuable for frame 
sashes, whether used for winter covering of pit or cold bed, or 
upon the green-house or spring hot bed. They are easily and 
quickly made, oven by a boy, and may be rather wider and Ion- 






AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 37 

ger than a single sash, so that 
they may overlap, if need be. 
For a mat intended to be four 
feet wide, take strong, well- 
twisted hempen string, about 
the thickness of a straw, and 
stretch five strings at ten or 
eleven inches apart, or six at 
eight inches, from a bar near the floor upward to another 
bar or beam six or seven feet above ; strain them tight, and 
fasten them securely to nails or pins driven for the purpose. 
Knot firmly on to each of them, just above the lower bar, a 
second string of the same size, or a little smaller, and only 
three or four feet long, for lacing- strings, which you can add 
to as you find necessary in the progress of the work : these are 
left hanging loosely on the floor. Next provide a quantity 
of pretty long straw ; place it upon your left hand as you seat 
yourself like a basket-maker in front of the stretched strings. 
Take about a boy's handful of the straw, and place it with the 
butts projecting a few inches outside of the outer string, and 
lace it to its place by the second or third lacer, passing this 
around the stretcher, and fastening it with a half-hitch knot ; 
take another handful for the other side, and lay it in with the 
heads inward, so overlapping the former as to make the whole 
layer eveii ; fasten it in place, and proceed to lace clear across 
the mat. Take other equal quantities of straw, and lace them 
in in the same manner until you attain a height equal to the 
desired length of your mat. Having fastened your last lacing, 
cut the stretchers, and tie the ends securely ; then lay the mat 
at length upon the floor, and, with a board or slat for a straight- 
edge, cut the projecting ends so as to make your mat of the 
desired width, leaving the ends of the straw not more than 
three inches beyond the outer stretchers (Fig. 14). Such 
mats will last for several years if kept dried and under cover 
when not in use. Special care should be taken not to roll 
them up for summer storing while they are damp. 

If it is found convenient to make a frame, upon which the 
stretchers can be extended horizontally, the work may be still 



38 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

more easily performed. An old bedstead would answer the 
pm*pose well. In this case the straw being at first placed 
on both hands, the operator, standing between the stretchers, 
works backward, and, as soon as there is room for it, the straw 
is laid immediately before him upon the finished portion of 
the mat. Care should be taken to lace uniformly, and only 
moderately tight, otherwise the mat will be rigid, as a too 
closely-knit sock is harsh. 

Common bass mats, or loose straw, mulch, or salt hay, are 
often used for covering frames, &c., but the straw mats made 
as above directed are better and more convenient. 



CHAPTER m. 

Implements of common Culture from Plow to Dibber. 

IMPLEMENTS OF COMMON CULTURE. 

Anxious to restrict the size of this book, the author would 
willingly have omitted descriptions of implements, &c., but it 
was perceived that such a course would leave it very incom- 
plete. The advancement of civilization is strikingly marked 
by the improvements in instruments in aid of labor, whether 
physical or mental. . I have, however, limited the number of 
implements figured, yet giving all that the most successful 
cultivator really needs. Those who desire to try more will 
find it easy to make large additions. 

All implements, whether large or small, should b'fe kept clean 
when not in use, the handles and other wood- work being oiled 
or painted once a year. 

PLOWS. 

_^ ^'s- 15. There is no end to 

,,w^.',^ the nominal varieties 

of plows, but Fig. 15, 
intended to represent 
the old - fashioned 
«2i D" of Wood, 
Common two-horse Plow. vfho was the Original 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



39 



patentee of plows made with pieced castings, which is a favorite 
with the farmers along the Hudson, is a fair specimen of the 
most useful and handy plow for common purposes, to be work- 
ed in all soils with a single pair of oxen or horses, with or 
without the forward gauge-wheel and coulter. 

Fig. 16 is a longer-fashioned and more wedge-like plow, 

Fig. 16. 




Longer-faahiouud two-horse Plow. 



often preferred for land that is smooth and free from stones, as 
upon our Western prairies ; but the shorter the gearing of the 
plow, the closer will it run to the ends, and be turned and oth- 
erwise managed the more easily. 

The subsoiler (Fig. 17) is simply a heavy, strongly-made 



Fig. 17. 




Subsoiler. 



plow-frame and share, without mouldboard, calculated for fol- 
lowing in the wake of the common plow to loosen thoroughly 
the deeper soil. 

Small plows should never be made with double handles ; 
why they ever were so made I am at a loss to divine, unless in 



40 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



mere imitation of the larger plows, which require them. In 
small plows, the second handle is a useless and very inconven- 
ient encumbrance ; but at the Fair of the American Institute 
for 1857 not a single-handled plow was exhibited. 

The small one-horse plow (Fig. 18) should be of the same gen- 
eral fashion as Fig. 15, but with a single and rather more upright 

Fig. 18. 




bmall one-horse Plow. 

handle, from which a brace extends to the outer extremity of 
the mouldboard. It may often be used in the second plowing 
of patches in the garden, where a larger plow and double team 
could not work, but it is chiefly used for furrowing and hilling. 
The half mouldboard plow (Fig. 19), when properly made, 

Fig. 19. 




Half mouldboard I'low. 



is a rather narrower and fuller-breasted, but lighter plow than 
Fig. 18, of the same general style, but with the hinder end or 



AMERICAN HOME (JARDEN. 



41 



Fig. 20. 



wing of the mouldboard left off, so that it is calculated for stir- 
ring the earth without turning the furrow-slice over. It may 
therefore be driven deeply between growing crops without risk 
of covering them, though it suffices in general to form hills of 
the most desirable kind. See Hilling. It is often called 
the " Potato Plow," from its very common use in that crop. 
The best double mouldboard plow (Fig. 20) is a small sin- 
gle-handled plow, with 
two movable mould- 
boards (a), the fore 
edges of which fit into 
grooves in the stand- 
ard, and are kept firm- 
ly in place by a wood- 
en wedge at the beam, 
each being braced out- 
ward by a small wood- 
en pin (c) near the 
heel. The share is of 
a triangular or duck- 
bill form (6), fitting on 
to the point of the sole, 
and secured to it by a 

Double mouldboard Plow. WodgO OU itS Under 

side. It is used for hilling potatoes, &c., after the earth has 
been first plowed from them. 

In light, clear soils it may be useful, but in ordinary land 
must be run shallow and scooping, and works unsteadily, and 
on various accounts can seldom be made to save labor Avithout 
corresponding loss to the crop. Larger and stronger ones are 
made, which, except possibly for ridging, are still less valua- 
ble. 

The skeleton plow (Fig. 21) is, in fact, a small subsoiler, 
made by taking off the double mouldboards from Fig. 20. It 
closely resembles the old Roman plow, without its wings or 
triangular followers. This plow is invaluable in the opera- 
tions of the farm gardener, particularly for giving the last deep 
movement to the earth between the rows of growing vegeta- 




42 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 




Skeleton Plow and Horse Driller. 



Fig-SL bles, such as cab- 

bages, carrots, beets, 
&c. It may also be 
used for ordinary- 
furrowing by fasten- 
ing an old shoe or 
something equiva- 
lent in front of the 
curved standard or 
shaft, so as to give 
width to the opened 
furrow ; or, if it be 
used with an old 
share having the corners broken off, it serves a good purpose 
as a horse-driller in making drills for wide-rowed crops, where 
a proper drill or corn-planter is not used. 

This and the half mouldboard plow (Fig. 19) are the most 
marked and valuable improvements among the lighter forms 
which have been adopted since patent plows came into use, 

A small hand-plow is found in our agricultural stores, with 
a long, straight, stout handle, into which it is fastened by an 
iron shank, upon which the plow proper moves, so that its 
depth may be regulated by a screw. In light soils such an 
implement may often be found useful in garden culture. Its 
present construction, however, is ridiculously Avrong, since it is 
made to draw as a common hoe, requiring the workman to walk 
backward as he labors, making its use a task for a convict rath- 
er than a pleasant labor for the amatem\ 

Any country blacksmith can set the shank the other way in 
a few minutes, and when thus changed to thrust instead of 
draw, and gauged to a proper depth, the workman, by throwing 
his weight a little forward upon the handle, and moving stead- 
ily, will be able to make it perform satisfactorily without much 
waste of muscle. 



HARROWS. 

The harrow, whether triangular or square, is commonly made 
without being jointed or hinged for folding ; but the improve- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



43 



Fig. 23. 





Triangular foldiog Harrow, single. 



Triangular folding Harrow, double. 



ment is so obviously valuable on various accounts, that it should 
be universally adopted. The square or oblong harrow, made 
with three bars in each leaf, will be found more convenient to 
carry on an ordinary stone-boat or sled than if larger. 




Square or oblong folding Harrow, with either six or eight bars. 

The corn harrow (Fig. 25) is a small triangular harrow, 
about four feet in length, made with clamp hinges in front, 
and movable rack or gauge-bars near the back, by means of 
which it may be spread in width to thirty inches, or closed to 
about sixteen, at pleasure. 

It has a single handle set into the centre-bar, just back of 



44 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 25. 




Corn Harrow. 



the gauge-bars, which is braced securely from near the outer 

end of the bar, hav- 
ing sufficient slope 
backward to enable 
the holder to walk 
freely behind it, and 
lift it readily by the 
hand-pin when nec- 
essary. 

It is usually made 
with two or three 
teeth in the centre- 
bar, and four in each 
of the wing bars. Sometimes a short beam is attached, as in 
the cultivator, rising ten inches or a foot above the bar, so that, 
if desired, the power may be increased by the pressure of the 
draft in front and the hand of the holder behind ; or, insteax^l 
of the beam, a well -braced iron rack-bar may be used, upon 
which a loose link is raised or lowered by a short wooden pin, 
as in the above figure (25), or both this and the cultivator may 
have the semicircular rack and gauge-wheel (Fig. 26 a) at- 
tached to the centre-bar. 

A smaller and very light harrow of the same construction, 
Avith teeth of f or ^ inch iron, is especially useful to follow the 
skeleton plow among root crops while young. 

CULTIVATOR. 

The cultivator (Fig. 26) is framed precisely like the corn 

hari'ow, but Avith a 
double handle, and 
each tooth has a small 
doubl e - mould share 
attached, or the entire 
tooth is cast in one 
piece, with double- 
cuitivator. mould sharc points; 

it is by some called a " Horse Hoe," and by others the Hoe 

Harrow. 



Fig. 26. 





AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 45 

Sometimes the two outer back teeth have only single-mould 
shares, which, by changing from side to side, may be set so as 
to tm-n their little fm-rows either to or from the rows between 
which they may be running. The beam may be dispensed 
with if the rack and gauge-wheel described below is preferred'. 
The cultivator is a mere surface implement, and unless, pos- 
sibly, in very light soils, will not save much labor, except at 
cost of crop. The single-horse plow, or the half mouldboard, 
followed by the corn harrow, does greatly superior work. 

The semicircular rack,&c. (Fig. 26 a) consists of two perfora- 
Fig. 26 a. ted and matched cast-iron bands, with brace- 

bands across the diameter. The brace- 
bands have at the forward end projecting 
sockets, in which the arms of the gauge- 
wheel axle work. They have also a single 
Cast-iron semicircular ^olc at the ccutrc, by which they are se- 
Rack and Gauge-wheel, ^ured to the bar with a bolt that forms the 
axle of the rack. Upon this it is moved at pleasure, and set to 
the desired depth by means of a loose pin or bolt passed through 
the rack-holes above or below the bar; the draught is by a 
movable link, which can be fixed at any point in the semi- 
circle. 

The rack is made to suit a bar of about four inches width, 
and can be fitted in a few minutes to any han*ow or cultivator 
having its centre-bar of sufficient length beyond the hinges. 

SEED-SOWERS. 

The corn-planter. Fig. 27, p. 46, is a skeleton plow, with a 
hopper, sowing-tube, and covering apparatus attached, con- 
nected with a contrivance which, by a spring, or circular brush, 
or otherwise, passes the requisite amount of seed from the hop- 
per into the tube for planting, at the proper distances. There 
are several good ones patented ; the figure represents Emery's. 

The hand seed-sower, or " barrow drill," Fig. 28, p. 46, is a 
smaller machine, but of the same general description as the 
corn-planter. In well-prepared soil it makes the drill, sows 
the seed, either continuously or at given distances, covers, and 
gently presses it. Sometimes the arrangement for covering is 



46 



AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN, 




Fig. 28. 




ward covered by raking, 
one who is rheumatic. 



Hand seed-sower. 

such as to throw the small 
limips first upon the seed 
rather than the finer soil. 
This is undesirable, and 
should be obviated by gear- 
ing a small spring-governed 
rake after the coverer, or by 
some other device. 

The sowing-tube, Fig. 29, 
is a tin tube, about four feet 
long and an inch in diame- 
ter, with a small bend or lip 
at the lower end, and at the 
upper a funnel mouth. The 
soAver, holding the tube in 
his left hand, draws its low- 
er end after him in a previ- 
ously-prepared drill, drop- 
ping the seed as he goes, in 
due proportion, into the fun- 
nel, whence it passes to the 
prepared drill, being after- 
It is suited to the mere amateur, or 

Fig. 29. 




Sowing-tube. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



47 



PICKAXE, STUB-HOE, &C. 

The crowbar, Fig, 30, is too well known, with its uses, to re- 
quire description. To be handy for its various common pur- 
poses, it should be about five feet long, weighing at the most 

Fig. 30. 



twenty pounds, rounded and tapering toward the top, squared 
and heavier toward its steel-tipped point ; or the whole may 
be a little lighter, and entirely of cast steel. 



Fig. 31. 



Fig. 32. 





Stub-hoe. 



The pickaxe. Fig. 31, should have its two 
steel-pointed arms of equal length, weight, 
and curv^e ; its eye oval, strong, larger outward than inward, 
and rather heavy in proportion to the arms, to add force to the 
stroke, but for common purposes the whole should not weigh 
more than ten pounds ; with an ash or hickory handle, about 
three feet long, perfectly fitting the eye. 

The stub-hoe, Fig. 32, is simply a strong, rough adze, not 
quite so much incurved as that used by shipwrights, and serves 
well for cutting up by the roots bushes that are found too 
strong for the plow. 

The mattock, Fig. 33, is a combination of the stub-hoe with 



48 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 33. 




Mattock. 



a rough root-axe, in- 
tended for the same 
general purposes as 
the former ; but, as 
commonly made, with 
its blades too long and 
awkward, it is a clum- 
sy tool, to which the 
stub - hoe, aided, if 
needful, by a common 
axe, is greatly prefer- 
able. 



SHOVELS AND SPADE. 
Fig. 36. Fig. 3fi. 




Fig. 37. 




Scoop-shovel, 



Spade. 



Stable-shovel. 



The shape of shovels differs 
with the purposes for which they are in- 
tended. Some, for special uses, are large 
and scoop-like, as Fig. 34 ; others more mod- 
erate in size, and fashioned less with a view 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



49 



to carrying their load than to facility in its discharge, as Fig, 35. 
Such are our canal and rail-road shovels, which, being also of 
sufficient capacity, serve well for the varied purposes of the gar- 
den. Perhaps the best size for common use is that known as 
No. 2, of Ames's manufacture, with a handle about twenty-six 
inches long, including the eye, and a flattish, bright steel blade, 
cropped at the corners to aid its balance and general efficiency 
in excavating, its blade inclined slightly inward or upward by 
the shortening of the front strap and the bend of the handle. 

Long-handled shovels and spades occasionally serve a pur- 
pose, as in removing matter which it is unpleasant to approach ; 
but, except as prys, there is a great loss of power in using 
them, and in general they are suited only to the lame or the 
lazy. 

The sheet-iron scoop-shovel. Fig. 36, is every where known 
as an instrument perfectly adapted to its ordinary uses. 

The spade. Fig. 37, should be of stout and polished steel, 
generally of the size known as No. 2, of which the blade is us- 
ually twelve inches long, running from seven and a half inches 
wide at the insertion of the handle to seven inches at the edge, 
strengthened by a very slight curvature, and having strong 
bands laid up a sound ashen handle, properly curved to give a 
forward set to the blade. The ordinary length of the handle 
should be twenty-six inches, including the eye ; but this may 
vary a little to advantage for persons of different height and 
flexibility. 



HOES. 



Fig. 38. 




steel-blade Hilling-hoe. 



The hilling-hoe. Fig. 
38, is a thin, flat plate 
of steel, perforated, and 
having its eye or socket 
formed by inserting a 
solid band of pretty stout 
sheet iron, the outer rim 
of which is turned down 
upon the back of the 
blade, and riveted to it, 



C 



50 AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN. 

as shown in the figure. The smaller end of this slightly-ta- 
pering eye-band stands inward, with a very slight inclination 
toward the edge, or downward, to give set to the blade. This 
hoe has almost no capacity for ordinary work, where force upon 
the edge is required. Its advantages are that it may be pre- 
pared for use in a moment by slipping it downward to the butt 
of a tapering handle, or smoothly-dressed light bean-pole, and 
that its peculiar lightness, size, &c., enables an ambidextrous 
workman to hill more rapidly than with any other hoe in all 
loose soils tolerably free from stones. Inferior iron-bladed hoes 
of this description are worthless. 

Fig. 39. 




Goose-necked steel Garden-hoe. 



The goose-necked steel garden-hoe, Fig. 39, long and exten- 
sively known as Tuttle's patent, is probably perfect for its pur- 
poses, no essential change having been found desirable in its 
material or form from the first, though of late attempts have 
been made to improve it as a hilling-hoe by welding the goose- 
bill more nearly upon the back edge of the blade, and lessen- 
ing the curve ; but it loses value as a garden-hoe by the 
change. In its original and proper shape, it has a forged and 
polished steel blade, slightly incurved, welded to an iron goose- 
necked shank, which is firmly keyed into a rather light han- 
dle about four feet long, the tapered end of which is sheathed 
and secured by a sufficient iron ferule. The blade is lessened 
a little in width from the edge backward, and by beating out 
portions of the back part of the blade toward the ends, two 
wings are formed, rising slightly above the neck of the shank, 
between which, thus spread, the goose-bill is welded to the 
blade, being set in a little toward its centre. By this ar- 
rangement the direction of the force in using it is so balanced 
that, whether the stroke be made with the centre or corner of 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



51 



Fig. 40. 



the edge, tliere is about equal power, 
and no " wring" upon the hand of the 
AYorkman. 

The goose-necked crane's-bill hoe, 
Fig, 40, is a light, long, tapering hoe, 
with a socket for the handle, which 
may sometimes be found useful for 
loosening the earth among flowers, or 
when taking out strong weeds, or 
around young vegetable plants after 
beating rains. 

The thrust-hoe (Fig. 41 a) is a thin 
steel blade, about two inches deep and 
of any desired width, welded or riveted to a nearly semicir- 
cular frame attached to a socket, into which a pretty long and 
stout handle is inserted, and the hoe is thrust instead of being 
drawn in the various uses to which it is put. 

a _ _ Fig- 42. 




Goose-necked crane's-bill Hoe, or 
Weeding-hoe. 





" Missionary Hoe. 

Fig. 41 6 is a somewhat 
improved form, in which 
6. Improved Thrust Hoe. the sockct and frame are 
of malleable iron, and the ends of the frame, or arms, are riv- 
eted near the middle of the blade, which should be about three 
inches wide, and so set that it can be used either in thrusting 
or drawing. 

Hoes of this kind are calculated for shallow hoeing upon a 
level surface, as among very young vegetable or other crops, or 
for cleaning paths, &c. Their proper management requires 
some experience, and their width should not exceed eight inch- 
es, which is exactly enough to pass safely between rows that 
were sown a foot apart. Any larger size than this becomes 
unwieldy even for a strong man. 



52 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



The missionary hoe (Fig. 42) is simply the thrust hoe with 
a squai'e frame, and a wooden roller geared ahead of the blade 
for the pm-pose of " breaking the crust" among young seedling 
crops. 

It also gauges the cut of the hoe to a uniform depth, thus 
rendering it an excellent path hoe. In soils clear of stones it 
will do a great deal more work in the same time than either 
the common garden hoe or the thrust hoe. In fact, if the soil 
be clear and light, an experienced hand will pass it through 
foot-rows of young plants, cleaning them thoroughly, at a rate 
very little slower than an ordinary walk. 

However naturally the special object of this humble instru- 
ment might have suggested its name, it was not, in fact, so de- 
rived ; but the hoe itself was invented by a missionary connect- 
ed with a company sent to the Osages of Arkansas Territory by 
the American Board nearly forty years ago. 

TROWELS AND TRANSPLANTER. 

GARDEN TROWELS. 

Gai'den trowels (Figures 43 a, b) are tapering, half romid 

Fig. 43. 




Fig. 44. 



a. Smaller Garden Trowel. b. Larger Garden Trowel. 

trowels, of different sizes, which are used where 
special care is required in removing small 
plants. The blades should always be of pol- 
ished steel, and ought not to be suffered to be- 
come rusty. 

The flower transplanter (Fig. 44) may be re- 
garded as a pair of trowels loosely hinged to- 
gether at the edges by a single rivet, so that 
when thrust down, one on either side of a plant, 
their points can be braced together, and the 
whole root and earth be lifted and transferred 
to a new and previously prepared hole or pot. 
Flower Transplanter. The Same did may be a<3Complished with a pair 




AMEBICAN HOME GARDEN, 



53 



of loose trowels and an iron ring of suitable size, which, being 
passed over the head of the plant, and the trowels thrust per- 
pendicularly down within it, will afiford the necessary fulcrum 
to each when strained upon. 

GRASS AND BUSH SCYTHES, &C. 

The scythe (Fig. 45), not being intended for ordinary mow- 
ing, but for cutting grass while short upon lawns, and plots. 

Fig. 45. 




Grass-scythe. 

and paths, if such are made, and in odd comers, ought to have, 
as represented in the figure, a pretty short blade, with a " sneath" 
so bent as to lay the edge almost perfectly level with the sur- 
face ; and instead of the old-fashioned wedged " knebs" and 
"heel-ring," let it be fitted with the screw knebs and the 
screw or clamp heel-ring of Lamson's patent, or some other 
equally convenient and stanch. 

The bush-scythe (Fig. 46), which is often found useful for 

Fig. 46. cutting coarse weeds, has a very short blade, 

strongly, even rather heavily made, and 

should have a short strong sneath, not 

Bush-scythe. much bcut, and hung with extra strong 

clamp heel-ring, or with the heel-ring doubled. 

^ Fig. 47. The bush-hook (Fig. 

47) is a powerful in- 
strument for cutting 
brush at arms' length, 
Bush-hook. but is Icss efficient 

than the bush- scythe, which will generally supersede it. 




54 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 




The grass-hook (Fig. 48) resembles the old sickle, or reap- 
Fig- 4:S. ing-hook, except in being some- 

what shorter, and having a plain 
instead of a toothed edge. It 
is used for cutting the grass 
from edgings or other limited 
spaces where the scythe can not 
be worked. 
Grass-hook. The grass-edger (Fig. 49) is 

a strong, crescent-formed steel plate, with a socket for the han- 
Fig. 49. die extending from its inner centre. It is used 
JT" for cutting the edges of grass-paths, plots, or 

edgings, either with a stretched line or by the 
l\^ ^ eye, the handle being of sufficient length to ena- 

ble the operator to throw his weight on to it as 
he presses it before him. A slight change is 
sometimes made in the foim of the knife, and a 
small wheel geared to run ahead of it, which has the advan- 
tages of giving it gauge and steadiness. 



Grass-edger. 



FORKS, 

All pronged and toothed implements for working in the earth, 
Fig. 50. Fig. 51. Fig. 52. &c., should liavc their prongs or 

teeth of steel, and neither round 
nor flat, but either oval or four- 
sided, the thickness or depth of 
the prong or tooth being made 
greater than its width, so that its 
greatest strength may always be 
opposed to the greatest strain. 

This is of special importance in 
the implements figured above and 
in the potato-hook. In rakes it 
is desirable, though not essential. 
The spade-fork (Fig. 50) is simply a 
strongly-made, square-headed, four-prong- 
ed steel fork, of which the prongs should 
spade-foik. Manur .-fork, be about ten iuches long, from one half to 




Hand-fork. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 50 

three eighths of an inch wide, and full half an inch deep or 
thick, standing almost perfectly straight, tapering but very 
slightly, if at all, and being dubbed off rather than pointed. 
It should have a heavy shank, secured by a strong ferule and 
riveted straps into the handle, and so bent as to give the 
prongs a little set forward. The whole should be of the length 
of an ordinary spade, or a little longer — say rather more than 
tliree and a half feet. It is used to great advantage in the fall 
or spring for stining and cleaning the ground around and among 
herbaceous plants and shrubs, and for the proper spring clean- 
ing and loosening of asparagus, strawberry-beds, &c. ; and, in 
general, for all light digging, whether deep or shallow. 

The manure-fork (Fig. 51) should be of steel, with prongs 
of the same general form, square-headed or semicircular, rath- 
er wider than the spade-fork, but lighter, keenly tapered, well 
curved, and polished. It may either be braced with strong 
bands to the handle, or, if the additional strength be less desir- 
able than lightness, it may be simply keyed into the handle 
through a strong end-band or ferule, extending about the same 
length upon the handle as the shank or tang within it. It is 
used for moving manure, weeds, rubbish, &c,, and is often found 
convenient in heaping hay. 

The hand-fork (Fig, 52) is a miniature spade-fork, with a 
handle twelve or fifteen inches long, useful for the light work 
of ladies in flower-plots and borders. 

POTATO-HOOK, 
Fig. 53. 




The potato-hook (Fig, 53) is a steel hook, which should be 
strongly made, with four prongs shaped like those of the spade- 
fork, but proportionably smaller, set well forward, and very 
slightly curved, having a pretty stout shank secm-ely keyed 
into a strongly-feruled ordinaiy hoe-handle. In general the 
prongs are made of other forms, and often give trouble, and the 
mode of securing them in the handle is not yet jjerfected by 



56 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



the manufacturers ; in heavy work they are apt to become loose. 
Besides their common use as potato-diggers, they are also val- 
uable for loosening the earth among young crops, around plants, 
and in narrow borders where it is desirable to avoid treading 
upon the newly-loosened soil ; for removing grass that has be- 
come sodded among edging or near the roots of plants ; also for 
" chopping over" ground that has become dry, before sowing 
it ; for covering seeds sown in drills, and for many of the gen- 
eral purposes of a small rake. 




Smaller wood-headed 
Rake. 



RAKES. 

The wood-headed rake (Figures 54, 55) is a familiar garden 
Fig. 54. Fig. 55. tool. The head of a rake is 

3 the bar, into which the teeth 
are fastened, or to which 
they are attached. When 
this is of wood, the end of 
the handle is tapered and 
inserted at the centre of the 
bar, having two or more 
side-braces of tough wood or 
pretty strong wire. They have eight, or 
ten, or twelve teeth, at about an inch apart, 
which are either clinched, or, more neatly, 
riveted in with small bmrs. Such rakes are 
to be found, of excellent make, in almost every country store, 
their single general defect being that the handles are from six 
inches to a foot too short. It is not force, but reach, that is 
required in a rake ; and the handle of a garden-rake should be 
but little, if any, shorter than that of the ordinary hay-rake. 
Cast-steel rakes of various sizes (Fig. 56), with heads to 
Fig. 56. which the teeth are welded, not riveted, having 

either shank or socket for the handle, though, 
in general, the former is preferable, are also 
found in company with the former, the handles 
having the same defect ; but in other respects 
they are all that can be desired, except where, for special rea- 
sons, the wood head may be preferred. 



Larger wood-headed Rake. 




Cast-steel Rake, with 
shank. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



57 



Fig. 5T. 




MISCELLANEOUS IMPLEMENTS, &c. 
The line-reel and its pin may be of iron, as shown in the fig- 
ure (57), or a couple of wooden pins, of an 
inch diameter and fifteen inches length, 
may be substituted, upon each, of which 
one half the line may be wound, as boys 
wind kite-cord. 

The line itself should be of tarred 
cord, twisted pretty hard, such as ship- 
chandlers and boatmen call " marlin," 
a hundred yards' length of which will 
not cost above a dollar, and with care 
will last for twenty years. Paths, beds, 
plots, &c., are laid out by the aid of the 
garden-line. It is also used as a guide 
Line and Line-reel. in setting out rows of plants, or in the 
preparation of drills for sowing, which are usually cut along it 
with the hoe, or merely marked along with the end of the han- 
dle, or with a stick. 

The marker (Fig. 58) is a home-made implement, devised 

Fig. 53. 








I 

u 



Marker. 



to obviate the necessity of repeatedly setting a line, and draw- 
ing single drills by it. To make it, take a piece of any com- 

C 2 



58 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

mon joist that is not too liglit, five feet and a half long, and 
with an inch and a half auger bore six holes through it at a 
foot apart, leaving three inches solid on each end. Insert the 
handle, five or six feet long, in the centre, almost horizontally, 
and brace it well. Next take six pieces of common pointed 
picket, about eighteen inches long ; shoulder them uniformly 
on both edges at a foot from the point end, forming a shank to 
each of six inches long, dressed so as to pass the auger holes 
(Fig. 58 a). Having set them all in, nail a light strip along 
the upper and under sides of the bar, back of the teeth, to set 
them in proper range and keep them from turning, and finish 
by wedging them carefully and firmly to their places from the 
upper side. 

Where a large piece or bed is to be sown or planted, it is 
used in the following manner : The line, being tightly stretch- 
ed in the desired direction upon one side, forms a guide to the 
outer tooth of the marker in the first draft ; subsequently the 
outer mark of each draft forms the guide, the tooth being run 
in it at each repetition of the stroke, as the operator, walking 
backward, draws the marker carefully after him. With this, 
six marks are made at the first draft, and five at each repeti- 

Fig. 59. tlOn. 

Lighter or heavier ones, with narrower or wider spaces, 
can of course be made. 

The dibber or planting-stick (Fig. 59) is best made 
from an old spade-handle, which is usually of the prop- 
er thickness for the purpose. It should be about fifteen 
inches long, including the hand-hold or eye. The 
point should not be shod with iron, nor sharpened as 
if for piercing, but formed rather obtusely, as nearly 
of an egg form as possible. It is used in setting out 
Dibber. Small plants. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 59 



CHAPTER IV. 

Soui-ces of Vegetation. — Elements of Vegetable and Animal Life. — Ma- 
nm"ing and Manures, Composts, etc. 

SOURCES OF VEGETATION. 

As all plants sprang originally from the earth, were watered 
by the rain, and surrounded by the air, we may properly ex- 
pect to find in these, or some of them, all the elements of which 
plants consist ; and such Chemistry shows us is the fact. 
Plants receive from continually renewed, and therefore ex- 
haustless sources in the earth and air, through the water which 
dissolves or absorbs them, those elements which each variety 
of plant secretes and appropriates according to its particular 
nature and wants, aided or modified by the influence of light 
and heat. These same elements, the constituents of vegeta- 
bles, form also, with certain peculiar modifications, the com- 
plete circle of the elements of animal life. Milk is the only 
perfect and entire compound of the essential elements of ani- 
mal support and gi'owth ; but those elements already existed 
in the grasses from which the milk was secreted, and are de- 
rived even still more richly from certain other vegetables and 
grains, receiving from them in the process of secretion their 
own peculiar taste or odor, or that of other things mixed with 
them, as the wild onion, etc. " All flesh is grass" in some- 
thing more than a merely figurative or poetical sense. 

Animal digestion and partial decomposition by fermenta- 
tion are the common means by which the various elements, orig- 
inally derived from their natural sources through the action of 
the vegetable world, are prepared to be returned to it, that they 
may be gathered in new forms, to be again consumed, and again 
returned ; and again regathered, in the incessant circle of 
changes which shall end only with time. 



(50 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

MANURING AND MANURES. 
Manuring, then, is to furnish to the plant, in a fit state and 
under suitable conditions, those elements which are essential 
to its healthful growth ; in other words, to feed it, accompa- 
nied with such stimulants as will induce more vigorous action 
in the appropriation or assimilation of the food we offer. Some- 
times, indeed, we modify the form, or withhold the stimulants, 
having rather in view permanent than immediate benefit, as 
when we apply alone crushed bones, lime, unrotted manure, 
muck, etc., all of which we use with more or less calculation 
of benefit to futm'e crops, or to the composition of the substance 
of the soil. There is, however, much yet to be learned as to 
the precise modes of operation of divers manures, and the pe- 
culiar secretions of different vegetables. As an illustration, 
we may instance the fact that white bush-beans, which con- 
tain some sixty or more per cent, of largely nitrogenous nutri- 
ment, are so commonly raised upon poor land that it has be- 
come proverbial to say of soil absolutely impoverished, it is 
" too poor to raise white beans." 

CLASSES OP MANURES. 

Manures are sometimes conveniently classified as, 1st. Ani- 
mal manm'es. These are either decaying animal matter, fish, 
etc., or they are certain natm-al or prepared manures, in which, 
with the other ingredients, animal matter, or the product of its 
putrefaction, in the form of ammonia, fixed or free, may to some 
extent abound, as ta-feu, guano, poudrette, etc. 

They are regarded as powerful stimulants to vegetation. 

2d. Vegetable manm'es. These are stable and bam-yard 
manures, green crops, swamp-muck, etc., in all of which vege- 
table matter predominates, though they are neither destitute 
of animal matter nor free from admixture of earthy matter and 
salts. They are especially calculated to favor and promote the 
growth of vegetables as distinguished from seeds or grain. 

3d. Earthy or saline, sometimes called specific manm-es, be- 
cause containing only one, or, at most, a few of the necessary el- 
ements of vegetable growth. These are lime, gypsum, or sul- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 61 

phate of lime, ashes, etc., in which earths and salts are almost 
exclusively present ; and with these may be reckoned charcoal 
(including coal-cinders or coke), though perhaps, chemically 
considered, it does not class with them, its chief value being 
supposed to consist in its capacity to absorb or " fix" ammonia. 

These, with those of the first class, are regarded as peculiar- 
ly useful in the production of the seed or grain. 

Another classification sometimes adopted, which has some 
special importance in garden culture, is that which rates ma- 
nures according to their power of absorbing moisture. Those 
which are highly absorbent, as the manm'e of hogs, oxen, cows, 
etc., are called cooling ; and those which are less, or very slight- 
ly so, as horse manure, are called heating. Of those classed 
above as earthy or saline manui-es, gypsum and charcoal are 
the most powerful absorbents, and these are also distinguished 
by their capacity to fix ammonia. Perhaps we may conclude 
that their power in the one case is a gauge or indicator of their 
value in the other. 

MANURES SUITED TO VARIOUS SOILS. 

Manures, particularly for the garden, should be carefully 
adapted to the soils they are intended to enrich. If the soil 
be sandy and hot, especially if it be sand lying upon gravel, 
the cold and moist manures above named are greatly to be pre- 
ferred, and stable manure 'should be entirely decomposed, and 
reduced almost to the state of vegetable mould before it is ap- 
plied. The applications of manure to such soil should be fre- 
quent rather than heavy ; and ash compost and liquid manure 
applied to growing crops through the season will be found of 
especial benefit. 

On loamy soils there is a wider range for choice. All kinds 
of manure will be found suitable, their application being reg- 
ulated by the necessities of the particular crop or season. 

On cold soils, as strong loam or clay, stable manure and city 
street-manm-e should be almost exclusively used, with dress- 
ings of ashes, guano, etc., and, if possible, the soil should be 
mechanically improved by the frequent addition of sand or 
road-wash. See page 18. 



62 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

APPLICATION OF MANURES. 

As a general rule, barn-yard manure, including that from 
the stable, will be found suitable for all garden pm'poses. If 
well rotted, it may be applied unmixed to the soil ; or it may 
be formed into compost, for doing which directions will be found 
under the appropriate head, p. 63. If applied in an uncomposted 
but half-rotted state, it should be laid on the garden at the 
rate of from forty to a hundred loads to the acre, at the earli- 
est possible moment after spring opens, and must be imme- 
diately dug or plowed in. The subsequent preparation of the 
ground for the reception of crops will mix it sufficiently with 
the soil. If compost be used, it may be in smaller or still 
larger quantity per acre, and may be applied to the land as the 
crops are about to be put in, being then carefully and thor- 
oughly mixed with the soil in the process of its preparation for 
the seeds or plants intended to occupy it. 

Animal matter, with " ta-feu," guano, hen manure, poudrette, 
lime, ashes, and the other earthy and saline manures, possess 
the very great advantage for garden use of being free from weed- 
seeds, and on this account are desirable as far as they can prop- 
erly be made available ; but it must not be imagined that they 
can permanently become substitutes for ordinary manure. 

Guano and hen manm-e that has been kept diy ai'e safest 
when used in compost or as liquid manm-e. They may also be 
sown broadcast upon a fresh, rough surface, and chopped, raked, 
or haiTowed in. 

Bone-dust, lime, leached ashes, home-made or from the soap- 
makers, may be used freely — say from twenty to sixty bushels 
to the acre — either lightly plowed in, or sown upon the rough, 
fr-eshly-plowed smface, and mixed in by a thorough harrowing. 

Unleached ashes may be used in the same manner at half the 
rate per acre, or applied as ash compost. See p. 64. 

Ta-feu and poudrette, the former being about double the 
strength of the latter, should be sown broadcast, and Avell mixed 
with the soil in the final harrowing or raking previous to sow- 
ing or setting out ; or they may be mLxed in hills prepared for 
sowing or setting plants, one or two good handfuls to a hill ; 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 63 

or they may be safely sown in drills, with or upon the seed, at 
the rate of one light handful of the former or two such hand- 
fuls of the latter per foot. 

When sown broadcast, ta-feu may be used at a rate varying 
from one to five barrels, and poudrette from ten to forty barrels 
per acre. They prove efficient aids to almost every variety of 
vegetable crop ; but they are by no means so useful if their ap- 
plication be deferred until the crop is growing, unless when 
mixed in hills prepared for setting out, though the disadvan- 
tage may be partially overcome by carefully mixing and cov- 
ering them in the earth around the young plants. 

MANURE HEAP. 

Every homestead, however small, should have upon it a cor- 
ner or hollow where refuse matters of all kinds may be thrown 
together as they accumulate, upon which slops may be thrown, 
and ashes sifted, &c., &c. In the course of the year a pretty 
large heap of valuable manure, or, rather, compost, will be pre- 
pared, which should be occasionally turned and mixed with 
good earth. 

GARDEN COMPOSTS. 

Ordinary compost for garden use may be made by mixing the 
manure of spent hot beds with equal quantities of fresh barn- 
yard or stable manure and SAvamp muck, or sods pared from 
alongside fences, or from any spot where water often settles. To 
these add air-slaked lime equal to one twentieth of the whole 
bulk, and an equal quantity of unleached ashes, or double this 
quantity of leached, and throw in and cover any decaying animal 
matter or drainage of the slaughter-house. Watch the heap, 
keeping a stick thrust into its centre to serve as a thermome- 
ter. Whenever, on Avithdrawing the stick, you find it getting 
hot, turn the heap over, and inside out ; reinsert the stick, turn- 
ing the whole again when the heat begins to rise, and at each 
time, after tm'ning, sow plaster (gypsum) pretty thickly over it. 
In a few weeks, if the weather be moderate or warm, it will 
be ready for use. 

It is proper to obseiTe that lime should be mixed with stable 



64 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

or barn-yard manure while it is yet cool, and not after ferment- 
ation has made much progress, or while the process is going 
on, otherwise it drives off instead of preserving the ammonia. 

ASH COMPOST. 

Ash compost may be made with equal parts of unleached 
ashes and gypsum, carefully mixed or sifted together. The 
mixtm-e should be kept dry, and applied to crops for which it 
is suitable before rain, either full-handed, broadcast, or a good 
handful to each hill spread over it. 

GUANO COMPOST, &C. 

Guano or mileached hen manure, mixed with one half the 
bulk of ground gypsum and four or five times the bulk of light, 
rich loam, the whole being thoroughly mixed and sifted to- 
gether, and allowed to lie for a few weeks in a dry place, being 
turned once or twice in that time, will become thoroughly in- 
corporated, and may be applied, even by inexperienced hands, 
without the risk which often attends their use in an unmixed 
state. When applied, this compost should be covered, and not 
merely spread upon the hill like ash compost. 

For top-dressing grain, for grass, or fruit-trees, guano should 
always be well sifted and powdered, and mixed with at least so 
much common earth as may serve to keep down its mipleasant 
dust in sowing, as well as to prevent loss by wind. In this 
state it may be used at the rate of two, three, or four hundred 
pounds to the acre. 

For flower composts, see directions under that head, p. 443. 

LIQUID MANURE. 

Ordinary liquid manure is the drainage of the stable or the 
barn-yard, preserved in a tank or pond-hole, and applied by 
means of a sprinkling-cart or watering-pot. Of the drainage 
from the stable, each forty gallons may be reckoned worth as 
much as an ordinai-y camian's load of manure. The value of 
barn-yard drainings is very variable, depending on the form 
and soil of the yard bottom, amount of exposure, and quantity 
of rain. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEX. 65 

For special uses, it has long been a practice in " the rural 
districts" to prepare liquid manure artificially by putting wa- 
ter upon hen manure or other material in a barrel, stirring it 
once in a while, and using it when it has settled for various 
crops, particularly onions, for the raising of which in a superior 
manner it has had for fifty years a sort of farmers' patent. It 
may, however, be made useful to almost all crops, particularly 
upon poor land, and where light manuring has been unavoid- 
able. In a tank, such as that described p. 33, it is easy to pre- 
pare it in quantity by adding as may be found necessary ma- 
nure from the hen-roost, or poudrette, or guano, either of which, 
or a mixtm-e of them, may be used in the proportion of about 
one barrel of either of the two former or twenty pounds of the 
latter to a hundred gallons of water. On each occasion for its 
use, after the quantity required has been taken out, it should 
be thoroughly stirred, adding water or manure, if necessary. 

It may be made in a barrel at discretion, with one pound of 
guano, or ta - feu, to from three to five gallons of water, or 
with a mixture of bone-dust and sheep manure, or with pou- 
drette and hen manure, without special regard to proportions, 
but applying it carefully to the earth around the plant, and not 
to its foliage. With this view, whenever it is applied to grow- 
ing crops, a watering-pot without the rose should be used ; but 
in applying it to ground that is not sown, or in which the seed 
has not yet sprouted, the rose should be upon the watering-pot. 
The repeated and moderate use of it is better than an excessive 
supply at once, and evening will be found the best time for its 
application. 



66 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER V. 

Reproduction in wild and cultivated Plants. — Vitality of Seeds dependent 
on certain conditions. 

REPRODUCTION. 

No clearer statement can be made of* the general objects of 
tbe vast vegetable growth covering and beautifying our earth 
than that furnished by the pen of inspiration, " He causeth 
grass to grow for the cattle, and herb for the servace of man, 
that he may bring forth fruit out of the earth." But in rela- 
tion to each separate species or variety of plant, an inherent 
tendency or disjwsition to reproduction is its special and most 
marked peculiai-ity, as if simple self-perpetuation and multipli- 
cation in its oflFspring were the sole ends of its existence, 
though it is also apparent that through this tendency or dis- 
position the general and ultimate objects proposed are effectu- 
ally and directly reached. 

It is interesting also to observe that this tendency or dispo- 
sition to reproduction is in general put forth freely only in a 
single channel ; it may be by offshoots or by seeds, but com- 
monly, if freely by seeds, then not lai-gely by offshoots ; and if 
by offshoots, whether naturally or as a result of cultivation, 
then not freely by seeds. 

This latter result is not uniformly accompanied by a destruc- 
tion or disappearance of those organs of the plant which are 
necessary to the production of seed, for a few seeds are often 
produced ; but, if the expression may be allowed, it seems to 
arise from a change in the direction of the virile force. 

Striking illustrations of this are found in those vaiieties of 
onion which are cultivated chiefly for their offsets, and in the 
giant seedless pie-plant ; and among flowers, by the tiger lily 
(lilium tigrinum), in which, although the floral organs of repro- 
duction are full and prominent, yet no seed is yielded by them, 
the plant being increased moderately by offshoots or dividings 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 67 

of the old root, and largely by the production upon the stem, 
at the bases of the leaves, of minute but perfect bulbs, which at 
first appear like small black buds. These are gradually loosen- 
ed from the stem, and in due time, by throwing out a single 
root, cant themselves over on one side, and are shaken out of 
their parent leaf-cup by the slightest wind. This dislodgment 
being effected, the second or companion-root is pushed forth 
to effect the self- planting of the young bulb. 

This tendency to mere increase, in whatever way it may be 
manifested, is satisfied, as we ought carefully to observe, by 
the most scanty growth in the plant, and in the grain with the 
very thinnest coating of flesh, or even, as in most seeds, by the 
production of the mere germ with its skin covering. 

But the meagre growth of the wild plant, and the scanty 
covering of the seed, however abundantly sufficient for the ab- 
solute necessities of simple reproduction, fail utterly to meet 
the demands which are made upon them for support and com- 
fort by the increased and increasing millions of mankind. 

To obviate this difiiculty, the efforts of cultivation are direct- 
ed to the increase of the growth of the plant, or the enlarge- 
ment of the fleshy substance of the seed. This effort, in the 
various grain-bearing plants, has resulted generally in an in- 
crease both of the plant-growth and of the grain, without any 
special drawback ; but in many garden-plants the improved 
growth of the vegetable is attained at the expense of a partial 
or total loss of the power of seed production. 

Thus a large, finely-headed cabbage or lettuce, or an im- 
proved melon, or pumpkin, or cucumber, will be likely to yield 
a much scantier crop of seed than one which is inferior. 

The same law holds among flowers. Almost all wild flow- 
ers are single, and these, as well as the inferior single flowers 
of cultivated varieties, seed freely ; but from those fine double 
flowers which cultivation has produced, it is often very difiicult 
to obtain seed at all, as is often experienced in the case of su- 
perior balsams, pinks, &c. 

VITALITY OF SEEDS. 
The vital principle of a seed resides in its germ, which is a 



68 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. "tJ 

perfectly-formed but minute plant of its specific variety. It 
seems probable that under suitable conditions the vitality of 
most small seeds might be retained for an indefinite period, ex- 
tending even to many centuries, as in the " mummy wheat," 
the seeds thrown up from far below the earth's surface, or those 
which, being largely difi'used through the surface soil, vegetate 
where they had been unknown for ages, when opened to the 
sun's influence and supplied with appropriate stimulus, or when 
the long-flooded upland produces swamp plants. 

The strength and continuance of this vital principle in seeds 
depends on a great variety of circumstances in their production 
and storing. Seeds imperfectly ripened or insufficiently dried, 
as is not unfrequently the case with imported European seed 
and grains, even after they have passed thi-ough the process of 
a moderate kiln-drying, though they may be of fine, plump ap- 
pearance, yet will not, in general, bear keeping. Seeds that 
have in any manner become damp and heated, or musty, are 
risky or worthless ; or if kept in a very hot place in vessels or 
packages through which evaporation goes on freely, or contin- 
ued in it so long that the heat itself induces a change in the 
chemical condition of the seed, they may lose the vital power. 
Tables professing to give the various ages to which different 
seeds may be kept are therefore of little value ; but, assuming 
that seeds are well ripened and stored Avith ordinary care, most 
kinds may be safely sown at five, and many at ten years old. 

As in trees checking the exuberance of growth induces dis- 
position to fruitfulness, so it has come to be regarded as a 
general rule that plants, particularly of the more luxuriant 
kinds, if raised from seeds which have been kept a year or 
two, run less to mere plant growth, and are more productive in 
fruit or seed than those raised from new seeds. Upon this 
theory cucumber and melon seeds intended for planting in 
frames are carefully kept for many years by persons cm'ious in 
such matters, and sometimes, when for any reason it is desired 
to use them prematurely, artificial drying is resorted to as an 
equivalent. 

In most seeds, however, age seems only, or at least chiefly, 
to affect the length of the period required for their germina- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 69 

tion ; as, for illustration, turnip seed sown fresh from the pod 
in i\.ugust may vegetate in forty-eight hours, while that which 
is two years old, sown at the same time, will require four or 
six days, or more. But peas two years old not only require 
longer time to vegetate ; they are also expected to grow with 
shorter vines, and yield an earlier and more abundant crop of 
seed. 



CHAPTER YI. 

Vegetable Forms, Importance of; Original; Improvements in. — Vegeta- 
bles, Color of; Deterioration of; Stock or Character of. 

VEGETABLE FORMS. 

The form of certain vegetables is of importance on various 
accounts. It affects the cost of production and the weight of 
crop. It sometimes indicates quality, and often settles at 
once the desirableness or undesirableness of a particular varie- 
ty, either for the cook or the cultivator, or for both. 

Excepting the small wild bulb from which the onion has 
been obtained, and not forgetting that the parsnep and carrot, 
in their wild state, are somewhat fleshy, we may assume that 
all swelling, fleshy rooting or heading vegetables originally 
threw downward a single hard, wiry root, as the burdock, or 
upward a single and almost naked stem, as the wild lettuce. 

In all these, cultivation, working sometimes blindly, and at 
others with precalculation of results, has produced various 
striking changes. The leaf of the well-cultivated cabbage has 
become thick and marrowy, and it has acquired a habit of head- 
ing before throwing up its seed-stalk. 

In the beet, turnip, etc., we find a habit of fleshy enlarge- 
ment or swelling. So great is the change thus induced that, 
instead of a naked, hard root or stem, we have vegetable forms 
advancing from this by various gradations, until the root 
spreads itself horizontally to a thin, flat form. The change 
has, in fact, proceeded beyond this, and shown us forms, as in 
some varieties of the turnip, concave on one or both sides, of 
which latter the yellow Malta is an illustration. Figure 80 f, 
page 18-(i. 



70 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

But the form of any rooting or heading vegetable may, by 
neglect of proper treatment, reapproximate to the natural form 
of the plant in its uncultivated state, becoming branched and 
fibrous in its roots, as figures 80 c, d, page 186, or thin and 
wiry, as Fig. 76 c, p. 131, Fig. 78 a, p. 161, and in danger of 
losing character entirely as a fleshy vegetable, and running to 
a mere tap or brush root. The cabbage or lettuce, on the other 
hand, when its head assumes the form of a cone, is approxi- 
mating to a loose, headless growth, like that of the kale, or the 
rape, or the wild lettuce. 

For the purposes of this work, it may sufiice to note the in- 
termediate stages between the Avild form and that which we 
have designated as the flat (Fig. 80 li, p. 186) ; and it will per- 
haps be convenient if, for the present, Ave assume this to be the 
maximum of the change which cultivation has effected. 

The advantages of this form are that it matures quickly, 
scarcely ever fails to yield a crop, and, in root crops, is easily 
gathered, even after some other forms may have been frozen in ; 
that it measures well, i. e., seems to yield largely ; and that, 
whether in the lot or in the market, it " shows for all it is 
worth." Its disadvantages are, that it really yields but light- 
ly or moderately, and that it is " unprofitable" in the hands of 
our cooks. Some of them would peel it to semi-transparency. 

The shape intermediate between the flat and the globe, the 
cheese form, as it is sometimes called, or, in the language of 
Geometry, the flattened spheroid (Fig, 80 g, p. 186), has about 
all the advantages we have enumerated for the flat, without 
any drawback upon them farther than that, in general, it may 
be expected to mature a little later. 

The round or globe form (Fig. 80/), it would seem, should be 
regarded as the standard of excellence, since it affords a larger 
amount of solid contents in proportion to its surface than any 
other ; but, notwithstanding, this might be taken to imply 
that it Avould also yield largely ; such is not generally the fact. 
Roots that take this form have almost always, too, a habit of 
underground growth, looking as if they were moulded by the 
equal pressure of the earth upon them, and this renders them 
comparatively difiicult to gather, especially in frosty weather ; 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 71 

while a globe that grows above ground is seldom of first-rate 
quality. It is a good form, but not the standard. 

Receding from the globe, we find the " heart" form, the 
lower portion of the globe elongated, and tapering to a strong, 
deep root. Fig. 80 e, p. 186. The heaviest croppers are mostly 
of this form ; but its usually large top and coarse habit, togeth- 
er with the difficulty of gathering, in respect to which it is as 
bad or worse than the globe, render it undesirable. 

The egg form is desirable as an improvement upon the heart- 
shaped in roots that have not yet been brought to better forms. 
In ruta-baga the obtuse egg form. Fig. 80 h, p. 186, is at present 
perhaps the best that is found in general cultivation, although 
occasionally very superior single roots are met with which are 
nearly globular in form, and without the habit of wholly bury- 
ing themselves in the earth during growth. 

There are uncouth or fancy forms, such, for instance, as 
Dale's hybrid. Fig. 80 a, p. 186, which, while they serve as a 
distinctive mark of certain kinds, have little or nothing else to 
recommend them above others. Originators of new varieties 
and others interested directly or indirectly are apt to favor 
such, and generally claim for them some peculiar merit ; but 
the aim of the true cultivator should be to combine superiority 
of quality with excellence of form, and this experience has 
shown to be readily attainable. 

In heading vegetables the same changes and varieties of form 
are found. The cabbage, and lettuce, &c., are either loose col- 
lections of leaves, or screw form, or conical, or heart-shaped, or 
globular, or cheese-shaped, or flat. Of these the heart-shaped 
for early, and the cheese form or the globular for winter cab- 
bages, and among lettuces the screw and the globe forms, may 
be regarded as the best, and no plant of them which does not 
come near or up to this standard should be used in the produc- 
tion of seed. 

COLOR OF VEGETABLES. 
Although in rooting vegetables color as well as form may 
seem to be of secondary importance, yet the practical cultivator 
is aware that it is so commonly associated with certain quali- 



72 AMERICAN HOME GAKDEN. 

ties or characteristics that lie seldom or never omits it as an 
item in liis estimate of the value of any given variety. Thus, 
if a caiTot be of a light or lemon color, he infers that it lacks 
richness of flavor ; if a beet be streaked with white, he con- 
cludes that, however valuable it may be for early use, on ac- 
count of its free growth, it will prove strong, or, at best, want- 
ing in sweetness when kept for winter use ; and in respect to 
turnips, he is familiar with the fact that, other things being 
equal, the yellow varieties are uniformly richer and sweeter 
than the white. 

DETERIORATION. 

There is an ever-recuiTing tendency in improved seeding 
vegetables backwaixl to their primitive condition as mere self- 
reproducers ; and here, as in the matter of vegetable forms, the 
constant effort of the cultivator is required to counteract this 
tendency, with this difference, however, in the mere business 
view of it, that while it is almost always the interest of the 
cultivator to improve vegetable forms to the utmost, the dimin- 
ished average product of seed from such improved varieties con- 
stitutes a standing and strong temptation to the mere seed- 
raiser to permit this natural deterioration to occur, quantity in 
the yield being generally the measure of his business profits. 

This retrograde tendency may be suddenly stimulated and 
strengthened by various causes in the different kinds of vegeta- 
bles. In peas, beans, and the various running vines, it often 
becomes apparent in a single season, when the seed is saved 
from the later portions of the crop, the earlier product having 
been eaten while comparatively rare, or sold before the market 
became glutted. Such seeds produce what may properly be 
termed new and debased varieties, "early peas" that are late 
and unprolific, or " six-week beans" that in sixteen weeks may 
possibly ripen a scattering and scanty crop. 

A similar effect, though not always equal in degree, is pro- 
duced when plants which, being properly biennial, ought to 
" bottom," as the turnip, or " head," as the cabbage, are sown 
at unsuitable seasons, and in consequence are driven up to seed 
without these important preliminary processes. Thus xerj 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 73 

late-sown turnips are often found to stand the winter unharmed, 
and at the opening of spring to run immediately up to seed. 
Early cabbage-plants that have been wintered also exhibit this 
tendency. Very early-sown beets and carrots often throw up 
seed-stems in the course of the first summer. Such seeds ac- 
quire an obstinate impulse in the wrong direction, which years 
of careful cultivation will scarcely suffice to overcome. 

Climate has also an important influence in this respect. 
Heavy oats are not commonly raised in a hot, dry climate. Li 
such a climate, fleshy, thick-leaved summer cabbages, of which 
the seed is saved through consecutive seasons, are not perpetu- 
ated, but, losing their improved cabbage habit, become leathery 
and worthless ; and radishes are apt to become mere sticks ; 
though, in regard to the latter, it is probable that, if it were 
deemed worth while, this climatic injury might be counteracted 
by wintering the seed-roots, or by a vigorous system of trans- 
planting them with care and frequency. The refusal of lettuces 
to head finely when sown so late as to carry the period of ma- 
tm-ing beyond the warmth of spring into the strong heat of 
summer, is due to the same cause. 

STOCK OR CHARACTER. 

When, in speaking generally, we say that certain vegetables 
are of " good stock," we mean that they are of good quality for 
consumption, and, with ordinary care, productive. But when 
we use this expression in reference to a particular variety, we 
may or may not include the idea of its intrinsic character ; but 
we always mean that it has the true form, and the quality, 
whether good or bad, of its proper variety, and is in all respects 
free from intermixture. We sometimes in this connection call 
it, perhaps more accurately, " pure" or " genuine stock." In 
this work the terms " good stock" are intended to express both 
excellence of character and pm-ity of kind. 

From what has been remarked, it becomes plain that it is 
even more important to obtain seeds of good stock than seeds 
that will be certain to grow. It is also plain that there is some 
extra risk of injury to seeds raised in private or market gar- 
dens, from which vegetables are gathered for use or sale ; so 

D 



74 



AMERICAN HOME GAUDEN. 



that, on the whole, it will be found wiser to obtain them from" 
seedsmen of reliable character, whose interests are also promoted 
by the sale of really good seeds, and who may be assumed to 
understand anil apply to their production those principles upon 
which their excellence depends. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Fertilization, in perfect, monoecious, nnd dia'cious Flowers. — Necessary to 
the rroduction of perfect Seed. — Modes of natural and artilicial Fertil- 
ization. — Production of new Varieties of Vegetables. 

FERTILIZATION. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



76 



a. The Apple Blossora, a common perfect or bisexual Flower. 
6, Cucumber BloHHomH, a monasoiouH Plant. 

1, The Fertilizer, or faluc UlosBom. 

2, Tho fertile lUoHHoni attached to the young Fruit, 

c, Tho Fertilizer, or falHO llop-vinc, with ita blosBoms, 

d, Tho fertile Hop-vine, its blossoms being hid between tho 

scales of tho " Hup," 



(_a di 

f ri 



dioBcious 
lant. 



The following figures present the arrangement of the various 
floral organs without their petals, and are inserted for farther 
and clearer illustration. 



Fig. 61.' 




1, A perfect or bisexual lilosaom. 

2, MonceciouH liloHHoms, on tho same Root. 
8, 4, Dloeciotis niossoniH, on separate Roots. 

a, rt, a. Fertilizing Organs, or Stamens. 

b, b, b. Fertile Organs, or Pistils. 

All flowers have a sexual character, that is, they are fur- 
nished with fertilizing or fertile organs, or both, known in bot- 
any as stamens and pistils. For the most part, these organs 
grow together in each individual blossom, as in the apple and 
all our common fruit-trees, the flowers of which are perfect or 
bisexual. Flowers of this class are distinguished in botany by 
the nuin])cr and peculiar character of these organs, which vary 
in the different Linnsean orders from a single stamen and pistil 
to an indefinite number of each (Figs. 60 a, 61, 1). 

In some cases they reside in separate blossoms, though upon 
the same root, as in corn, melons, cucumbers, &c.. Figs. (>() h, 
61, 2 ; the topgallant in corn, what are called false blossoms 
in cucumbers, and melons, the catkins of the birch and hazel, 
&c., being only the fertilizers, which of themselves bear no 
fruit. These plants are called in botany " monoecious," or of 
one house. In others they are borne upon separate roots, as in 



76 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

the hop, &c., Figs. 60 c, d, 61, 3, 4 ; asparagus, spinach, the 
papaw also, and persimmon, often the sassafras, and some vari- 
eties of our wild grape-vines, Jire of this cliaracter. These are 
known as " dioecious," or of two houses, the whole plant bear- 
ing the fertilizers being fruitless. 

In mere seed or grain-bearing plants, the fertilization of the 
fruit-bearing flower or its equivalent organs — for some plants 
do not produce flowers, properly so called — is absolutely neces- 
sary to obtaining product. Thus, where single spears or hills 
of com stand far apart from others, the ears never fill, because, 
whichever way the wind may draw, the fertilizing powder, 
as it falls from the topgallant, is carried away, and but little 
of it settles upon and fertilizes the silk, each thread of which 
connects with an incipient grain, and hence the failure. 

In the various fruit-bearing plants, the fertilization of the 
fruit-bearing flower is equally essential to the production of 
perfect seed, and generally it may be regarded as important to 
the formation of fruit, inasmuch as the latter, being a mere ap- 
pendage or covering for the former, may Ix; supposed likely to 
fail with it ; and such, in general, is the fact. The first drop- 
ping of young fruit, which, even after an abundant show of 
blossoms, sometimes extends to the whole orchjird crop, is, I 
believe, mainly due to the imperfection or total failure of the 
fertilization, whether this arises from drought and glaring sun- 
shine, from unseasonable cold, an inopportune storm, or from 
other less manifest causes ; all such dropped fruit is seedless 
or germless. But at least a partial crop of fruit may be ob- 
tained where this fertilization has not been effected, as we 
sonictimes find apples without seeds in the core ; and in the 
larger vegetable fruits, as melons, &c., which are mainly re- 
sults of cultivation, it is easily conceivable that, without fer- 
tilization of the flower, fruit may be produced, yielding, how- 
ever, only shriveled and abortive seeds, or such as, if appa- 
rently full formed, yet actually lack the essential germ, and 
are, of course, without vitality. The " fig-apple," as it is called 
by Duhamel, which has only pistils, being destitute of stamens, 
as well as Avithout petals, beai's fair and tolerable fruit, but never 
yields seeds. In these exceptional cases of fruitful nonfertil- 



AMERICAN HUME GARDEN. 77 

ization it commonly happens that the fruit loses size, though 
it does not entirely perish. Of this the white Corinth or Kis- 
mishi grape, from which the seedless Sultana raisins are made, 
furnishes an interesting illustration. Its flowers are perfect or 
bisexual, yet, from some cause as yet undiscovered, it never 
produces seed, and, although its clusters are of fair size, the 
fruit upon them is not much larger than common currants ; but, 
as we might expect in connection with this defective reproduc- 
tion in the ordinary channel, the luxuriance and vigor of its 
plant-growth is prodigious. 

INTERMIXTURE. 

From this sexual character in flowers arises the possibility 
and danger of intermixture of kinds. This, however, is limited 
to species that are kindred to one another, which is generally 
indicated by a certain similarity in the appearance or construc- 
tion of their flowers. Thus the varieties of ca))bage, turnip, 
rape, and probably radish, all bearing cruciform flowers, read- 
ily intermix, when blossoming at the same time in close prox- 
imity, as in small private gardens, or whenever planted care- 
lessly near to each other for seeding. Cucumbers, melons, 
pumpkins, &c., are ecjually liable to intermixture in similar 
circumstances. The product of seeds so raised becomes a mon- 
grel and usually worthless combination ; but cabbages and 
beets, or cucumbers and onions, &c., &c., never intermix, there 
being no congruity or affiliation between them. Certain plants 
also, which seem to possess this congruity, are not known to 
intermix, as the apple and pear, the currant and gooseberry, 
&c. The reason of this it does not seem easy to find. 

In many flowers the organs of fertility are comparatively ob- 
scure or hidden by their peculiar arrangement ; yet intermix- 
tm'e occurs readily among them, as in the various kinds of peas, 
and bush-beans, many new varieties of which have originated 
incidentally through careless planting or the sowing of min- 
gled seed. 

Sometimes the intermixture of kinds, whether by natural or 
artificial fertilization, is imperfect, and the new variety contin- 
ues for years to be unsettled in character ; or, inste.id of one 



78 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

new variety, we obtain two, or even three, by easy selection, as 
in the case of the black, and white, and common mercer pota- 
toes, which, though diflfering in appearance, are nearly similar 
in character, and all from one stock. 

MODES OF NATURAL FERTILIZATION. 

Natm'al fertilization is effected in flowers containing both 
the fertilizing and fertile organs by such an arrangement of 
the parts as secures the deposition of the pollen or fructifying 
powder shed by the former upon the latter, sometimes as it de- 
scends, and at others as it ascends, and in some flowers it is 
scattered upon them by an explosive force or bursting. In 
monoecious and dioecious plants the pollen is shed usually in 
great abmidance by the fertilizer, and, floating in the air, or 
borne by the wind, aided perhaps by magnetic of chemical at- 
traction, finds its appropriate place. This may be seen at once 
in any corn-lot when the ears are in full silk, the exposed end 
of each fibre of which is then dusted with the powder from the 
topgallant. Bees and other insects also carry the pollen upon 
them from flower to flower as they seek their food, and thus 
accomplish the same end. 

MODES OF ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZATION. 

Flowers of vegetables and of fruits are artificially fertilized 
by precisely similar processes, which may be described as fol- 
lows: 

In all perfect flowers — that is, those in which the fertilizing 
and the fertile organs reside in the same blossom — watch care- 
fully the time of the natural opening of the flower you wish to 
fertilize, and just as, or before it fully opens, insert the points 
of a very small pair of scissors, and clip off and carry away all 
the stamens, leaving the pistils alotie, entire, and uninjured. 
When this is accomplished, take a newly-opened but full flow- 
er of the kind with which you desire to fertilize ; cut off, if nec- 
essary, all the petals or flower-leaves, and place it within the 
blossom to be fertilized , or, without repaoving its petals, place 
it as a cap over the former in such a manner that its stamens 
may surround, or at least be near to the pistil. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 79 

This fertilizing flower, if it withers, may be repeatedly renew- 
ed, or rather replaced by fresh flowers, until the flower-leaves 
of the other begin to fade or fall. It is plain that erect blos- 
soms, especially on fruit-trees, should be chosen for this opera- 
tion, so that the fertilizing flower may rest securely in its 
place. 

There is a more scientific mode of fertilization, in which this 
latter precaution is not essential. It is to prepare the blossom 
you intend to fertilize as above directed, and, taking care to 
mark the time of its maturing, which will be about the fore- 
noon of the day in which the blossom becomes naturally full- 
blown, take one or more of the fertilizing flowers in the ripe 
state — that is, when the stamens willingly shed their pollen 
or dust, and, gathering this upon a fine camel-hair pencil, ap- 
ply it lightly but freely to the top of the pistil or stigma. 

A very little observation and practice will enable one to 
adopt this mode successfully. The general security for the 
result will also be increased by fertilizing several blossoms in 
a bunch, and removing the rest, or even all the bunches upon 
a small branch, reducing the number of the blossoms in each. 
To prevent the intrusion of insects, fix over, but not in contact 
with them, a gauze net, spread upon a wooden frame of any nec- 
essary form and size, which should be securely braced to the 
tree or branch so as to bear the wind, which may be left in its 
place until the fruit sets. 

In plants that are monoecious, as melons, cucumbers, etc., or 
dioecious, as some grape-vines, it is only necessary to set the 
plants, to be fertilized by themselves, at least a hundred yards 
distance from any others of the same kind, and,4aking ofi" and 
carrying away all the mere fertilizers, or filse blossoms, as they 
are commonly called, bring flowers from other plants and fer- 
tilize them by either of the processes described above, and with 
similar precautions against insects. 

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES OF VEGETABLES. 

The tendency of seeds to deterioration and intermixture, 
whether aiising from their necessary proximity in small gar- 
dens, or from the interest, the ignorance, or the carelessness of 



80 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

cultivators, gives importance to the production of improved va- 
rieties. 

This is most commonly effected by careful and long-contin- 
ued SELECTION, to which high culture should be superadded, 
in which we continually choose the most perfect or earliest 
plant, or fruit, or pod from which to obtain our seed. 

Upon this latter principle rests the old familiar rule of tak- 
ing for seed the cucumber or melon growing nearest to the 
root, etc. This rule, however, is seldom rigidly adhered to, and, 
if it were, would natm-ally tend to produce an earlier but small- 
er-fruited variety than the original. 

Perhaps the most promising course for improvement is to 
choose the second, and generally finer fruit for seed ; or, if the 
object be simply to avoid depreciating the variety, the whole 
crop, being left ungathered from the first, will yield satisfac- 
tory seed. Unless, indeed, it should happen that from pecul- 
iar circumstances the plant makes a very extended or a sec- 
ond growth, in which case the earlier product alone should be 
permitted to seed. 

New and improved varieties are also sometimes obtained by 
careful and intelligent intermixture, in which we aim to 
combine the desirable qualities of both the old varieties in the 
new one we expect as the product. This valuable result is 
also sometimes effected accidentally. In such intermixture the 
general rule is that the product will have the form and ap- 
pearance of the fertilizer, with the character or peculiarities 
of the fruit-bearing plant. To illustrate this : Very early peas 
are generally small. Suppose we desire to produce a variety 
in which the seed should be larger, but the crop not materially 
later. Then, on the general rule given, we may fertilize the 
cedo nulli with the Spanish dwarf, and expect to accomplish 
our purpose ; but if we fertilize the latter with the former we 
ought not to expect success, though it is not inconceivable that 
we might succeed, from the accidental concurrence of certain 
occult causes or combinations connected with the previous proc- 
esses through which these varieties may have passed in ar- 
riving at their present state. 

Intermixture is effected only between kinds that blossom at 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 81 

the same time ; and it is probably from blooming a little out 
of the ordinary season that certain kinds of peaches, and per- 
haps also apples, often or constantly reproduce seedlings like 
themselves. The several sub- varieties of the Eewtown pippin 
apple, and other valuable fruits, sometimes attributed to soil, 
etc., are probably the results of exclusive and perfect self-fer- 
tilization in isolated blossoms. 

New varieties are not unfrequently obtained by transfer 
to a different climate. In a period more or less prolonged, the 
plant becomes acclimated, and its habit fixed in conformity 
with its new circumstances, and on being returned to its for- 
mer latitude it can not be identified as one with the variety 
from which it sprang. The early Canada pea is an instance 
of this, being the early frame pea raised for a series of years 
in Canada. 

The effect is precisely analogous to that induced without 
change of climate by taking only the very first formed pods 
for seed. The maturing of the crop is hastened, but its size 
and yield somewhat reduced. 

Transfer to a southern climate tends, of course, in the oppo- 
site direction. All this, however, would be greatly affected by 
the absolute natural fitness or unfitness of the climate to pro- 
duce the crop which it is sought to change. 

New varieties are occasionally produced by disease, which 
becomes hereditary, but of these it is not worth while to speak. 

They are also often introduced from foreign countries, 
either by scientific research or under the stimulus of interest. 
The cocoanut squash (noted in its place) was introduced from 
Valparaiso by the late Commodore Porter ; and the common 
large white kidney bush-bean, which now abounds in our 
stores and markets, was brought into New York from Madeira 
some thirty years ago, when dumpling beans were scarce. At 
that time it furnished the text for a free-trade article in the 
New York Journal of Commerce, which indicated clearly that 
the vrriter " knew beans." 

D2 



82 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER Vm. 

Sowing, Manner of; Time of; Depth of, etc. — Combination of Vegetable 
Crops. — Transplanting, Ridging, Hilling, etc. 

SOWING. 
MANNER OP SOWING. 

In broadcast sowing the land is generally laid off, either by 
furrows or sight-poles, into spaces of suitable width for two 
casts of the seed, which meet and slightly overlap as the sower 
throws the return cast ; but in small lots the eye is often de- 
pended on to gauge these distances. 

To perform the operation rightly, a basket or sheet contain- 
ing the seed is slung upon the right shoulder and across the 
breast, so as to be partially under the left arm and governed 
by the left hand. The sower beats time as he steps, dipping 
a handful of seed with his right hand at each advance of the 
left foot, and casting it with a steady sweep as he steps for- 
ward with the right. A good sower does not cast the seed 
from his hand at once, and right before him, as in feeding 
chickens, which would cause it to fall in streaks, but, by adroit 
management with his thumb, and an upward cast, spreads it 
as it issues, causing it to fall in a broad, scattering shower, 
like the spreading jet of water drops from an engine-pipe when 
thrown into a showering semicircle by the finger of the en- 
gineer. 

In broadcasting small beds or plots in the garden a pinch 
of seed is taken instead of a handful, but the same skill is 
used to spread it evenly as it is thrown. 

In drill sowing, also, a large pinch of seed only is taken, 
which, in the process of sowing, is strickled along the drill by 
just such a motion of the thumb upon the fore and middle 
fingers as a skillful housewife uses in carefully salting a steak. 
A smart boy accustomed to the work will sow evenly, and of 
any desired thickness, at the rate of a fast walk, or faster in 
an emergency. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 83 



TIME OF SOWING. 

The proper time for sowing varies not only with the various 
kinds of seeds, but often also with the same kind, according to 
the period at which the crop is expected to mature, or the use 
for which it may be wanted. Vegetables intended for spring 
or summer use, if hardy, should be sown in the fall or at the 
very earliest opening of spring ; if tender, the seeds should be 
sown and the plants prepared in hot beds, and be set out at the 
time of the principal corn-planting, or a little earlier if the ob- 
ject is deemed worth the risk. Unless the soil and location 
of your garden is very favorable, do not plant or sow your full 
crops, even of early. vegetables, until the ground becomes warm- 
ed and free ; let a border, at most, suffice for extra early ex- 
periments. 

By this practice you will often excel in the quality and 
yield of your crops, and sometimes in the earliness of their 
products. " On time, but not ahead of time," is as good a rule 
for the garden as for the rail-road. 

For all tender vegetables, the planting time of the main 
corn-crop constitutes a fixed point at which, in all latitudes, it 
will be found safe to sow or set. The time of leisure between 
planting and first hoeing is the good time for farmers to make 
garden, the ground being plowed or dug a month or so before. 

Those vegetable crops intended for winter feeding to cattle, 
and those of the same kind intended for the table, should not 
be sown at the same time, a large crop being a main object in 
raising the former, and excellence of quality chiefly desirable 
in the latter. 

All crops for winter use should be sown late enough to avoid 
the summer heat upon the half-matured crop ; those intended 
for feeding to cattle as early as possible consistently AYith this 
indispensable rule ; while those for table use should be defer- 
red to as late a period as may in any way consist with the 
probability of their matming before winter. Through the cool 
weather of autumn all vegetables that have not been checked 
in consequence of too early sowing, or by some other cause, if 
properly cultivated, grow with great rapidity, and furnish prod- 



84 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

ucts very superior in quality to those raised even from the 
same stock, but sown before the proper time. 

Whenever root vegetables, having attained to from one fourth 
to one half or more of their ordinary growth, experience a check 
from any cause, it is almost impossible to start them anew so 
as to obtain either handsome or well-tasted roots ; they will, in 
general, be either hollow, or stringy and necked, or have an al- 
kaline taste, or all of these may combine to render them worth- 
less for the table, and of but little value for any purpose. Even 
if the check occur while they are quite small they are scarcely 
ever recoverable. The judicious cultivator will, therefore, so 
time the sowing of his winter root crops as to carry them clear 
of the summer heats and into fall weather, with its cool nights 
and heavy dews, while they are yet in the first or second stages 
of their growth. If this be done, and their after cultivation be 
faithfully attended to, he may reasonably expect a crop abun- 
dant in yield and excellent in quality. 

North of latitude 40° the spring sowing of general crops 
may ordinarily be performed in April and May, Root crops 
intended for cattle may generally be sown with safety about 
the middle or latter end of June, and those intended for win- 
ter table-use from early in July to mid-August, according to 
the kinds ; but in southern latitudes, earlier and later sowing, 
with a longer summer intermission, becomes necessary. In a 
well-cultivated garden it will be found safe to allow about 
twelve weeks for the growth of fall-sown vegetables, counting 
from the time that their third leaves attain the size of a 
" squirrel's foot," though some of them, as turnips, or bush- 
beans for salting, will be ready for use in shorter time, 

DEPTH OF SOWING. 

It is sometimes imagined that the seeds of tap-rooted plants, 
as radishes, beets, &c., should be sown at a depth proportioned 
to the expected length of the product. Men otherwise intel- 
ligent occasionally entertain this puerile notion, and lay the 
blame of failure upon seeds which, in fact, they themselves 
have buried beyond hope of germination. The oaks that clothe 
our mountains sprang from acorns that were never buried ; all 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 85 

selt'-sown seeds are cast upon the surface, and those which are 
covered deeply in plowing seldom trouble the cultivator until 
again brought near to it. 

The following are general rules : 

1st. Except in special cases, shallow sowing is to be prefer- 
red to deep. 

2d. In dry, hot summer weather, seeds should invariably be 
sown in soil freshly dug or plowed, and should then be sown 
rather deeper than in the more moist and cool seasons of spring 
and fall. 

3d. The depth at which seeds should be sown may generally 
be infen'ed from their size. If seed be very small, it should 
be sown on the surface, previously well pulverized, and be 
lightly and carefully raked in ; or when in small plots, simply 
stirring the earth with the hand or with a small stick will 
cover the seed sufficiently ; but seeds thus sown upon the sur- 
face, unless the weather be moist, should have a gentle water- 
ing for two or three evenings with the ordinary rose watering- 
pot, and be shaded from the strong sun. Seeds not very small, 
as radish, &c., may be sown in drills half an inch or an inch 
deep, or upon a surface left somewhat rough, and must then be 
pretty thoroughly raked in. 

The larger seeds, as beets, beans, &c., may be covered from 
one to two inches deep, the latter depth being sufficient for the 
largest seeds in the hottest weather, if the second general rule 
be regarded. 

COMBINATION OF CROPS. 
This is a system of arrangement by which various crops are 
raised in the same season, and partly at the same time, upon 
the same ground. The planting of pumpkins with corn is a 
familiar instance among farm crops, and an increase of about 
one fourth has been supposed to result from alternating the 
rows of com with potatoes. In the neighborhood of cities, 
where land becomes very valuable, it is common to sow in the 
fall upon the same gi'ound alternate rows of lettuce and spin- 
Qch or corn salad. The spinach or corn salad being cut very 
early in the spring, the lettuce may be cultivated for early 
head salad. 



86 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

In the spring radishes are often sown broadcast upon land, 
and afterward beets or parsneps are sown in rows, or early 
cabbage-plants are set out at the proper distances for those 
crops. In due time the radishes ai-e pulled, and the land left 
to the remaining crop, Avhich then receives the ordinary cul- 
ture. See also Early Potatoes and Pole Beans, page 171. 

Other combinations occur, as fancy or the variety of crops to 
be raised may dictate. In raising root-crops on a large scale, 
combination may sometimes be wise and profitable, as where 
either carrots, or beets, or parsneps are raised together with 
onions. The onions being sown at the very opening of spring 
in drills three feet apart, after they have been weeded and 
thinned — say early in June — the spaces are plowed, and two 
rows of either of the other articles named are sown at eight- 
een inches apart in the intervals ; and the onions being gath- 
ered in August, the roots last sown are cultivated in the usual 
manner, and may yield from two to four hundred bushels per 
acre. 

In any combination of crops, it must not be forgotten that 
the labor is generally increased, and, unless in land of extraor- 
dinary richness, and with special care in the cultivation, each 
crop will afford much less than a medium yield. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

Transplanting of fibrous-rooted vegetables is one of the most 
important operations of the garden. 

It is sometimes assumed by writers on the subject of culture 
that it is highly expedient, if it be practicable, to sow all seeds 
where the plants are intended to matm^e, and that to transplant 
is not only additional labor, but a disadvantage to the crop. 
This may be true of tap-rooted plants, as beets, carrots, &c., 
because they can not well be removed entire and replanted in 
their natural position ; but in reference to those which are 
fibrous-rooted, the very opposite of these conclusions will be 
fomid correct in practice. The labor of keeping in order an 
acre of cabbages sown in the hills for the first month after sow- 
ing will be found much greater than its thorough preparation 
for the crop while the plants are left for that period in the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 87 

seed-bed, being then, immediately after a final and thorough 
plowing of the land, transplanted to their appropriate places. 

Transplanting, too, is an essential process in the superior 
cultivation of almost every variety of vegetable crop. Check- 
ing in some measure the natural tendency to wildness in the 
growth, it in the same degree tends to secure and hasten the 
perfecting of the product. A transplanted vegetable, whether 
plant or tree, other things being equal, will mature sooner than 
one left standing Avhere the seed was sown. 

It is indeed probable that repeated transplanting, accompa- 
nied by the stimulus of high nutrition, either experimental or 
accidental, were the chief processes by which our heading and 
fleshy-rooting vegetables have been obtained from their wild 
and worthless originals. 

The reader will infer from what has been said that in all 
heading vegetables, if he would have superior products, he must 
cultivate highly, and transplant once or oftener while his plants 
are in the young growing state. 

PREPARATORY STEPS. 

By transplanting we generally, though not always, mean the 
final setting out of plants where they are intended to mature, 
and for this process there are preparatory steps of more or less 
importance according to circumstances. 

1st. Plants, while very small, are often transplanted from 
the seed-bed, and set from one to three inches apart, or at such 
distances as will prevent their being " dra-wn up" and weaken- 
ed by crowding one another, as well as to afford them room to 
form good roots. This is technically called " bedding," and, 
though not essential, will always prove an important aid to the 
cultivator, afibrding him strong, well-rooted plants, and ena- 
bling him to carry a little earth with each root in the final set- 
ting out of his crop, thus not merely securing the life of all, 
but, which in late planting is often equally important, their 
uninterrupted growth. 

2d. This end is still more effectually attained in the case of 
the egg-plant, tomato, &c., by a second removal, technically term- 
ed "potting" in which such a number of plants, usually three, 



88 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

as ai'e calculated for each hill, are put into a small pot of rich 
earth, and placed in a slight hot bed two or three weeks before 
the final setting out^ in which case, at pi anting- time, after a 
plentiful watering, they are carefully removed from the pot by 
turning it upside down upon the hand, with the plants hanging 
between the fingers, and starting the whole out unbroken by 
striking the edge of the pot gently upon any thing solid ; the 
whole ball of earth is then placed, with the plants it may con- 
tain, in the hill prepared for it. See Hilling, 

3d. Grouting. — Immediately before young seedling plants 
of vegetables are piilled for any pm^pose, the bed, or at least that 
part of it from wliich the plants are to be drawn, should be 
thoroughly soaked with water, and, if needful, a small stick 
may be used to pry up the roots, so that they may retain some 
of the earth with them in transplanting. If from any cause 
they fail to hold the earth, it will be found of special import- 
ance that they be submitted to the process of grouting. 

This is performed by mixing rich earth, to which cow-dung 
may be added, with water, to the consistence of soft mud, and 
dabbling the roots of the plants in it, not by thrusting them 
into it, but rather by drawing them through it, or, as it were, 
striking them upon it until each root is loaded. A dozen 
plants may be grouted at once ; and as they are held in the 
hand preparatory to this process, an inch or two of the root- 
ends may be cut oflf. 

In the final transplanting, it is the general rule to set the 
plants of cabbages, peppers, and other plants that form a stem 
one or two inches deeper than they have previously stood ; but 
plants that do not form a stem, as celery, lettuce, &c., at the 
same depth as before. If the stems of yomig plants of the for- 
mer class are very long, or, technically speaking, if the plants 
be " long-legged," they may be planted a little deeper than 
above directed ; but, whether the leg be long or short, the plant 
should never be put in so deeply that the earth reaches the 
leaves ; let these always remain above ground, and free to the 
wind. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 89 



MODE OF FINAL TRANSPLANTING. 

The process of transplanting is a simple one, although re- 
quiring care and skill to perform it well and rapidly. Let us 
describe the operation. Having plants, stem-plants, of suita- 
ble size — that is, from four to ten inches' growth — either drop 
them at the proper distances, with their heads to the left hand, 
or place them in a small box or basket on your left hand, or 
sling them in an apron or pouch before you ; take your dibber 
(see Fig. 59, p. 58) in your right hand, and half a dozen or so 
of plants in your left ; separate one of them, as if slipping it 
out of the hand, but still holding it with the thumb and fore- 
finger ; make a perpendicular hole with your dibber of such 
depth as you judge the root of the particular plant you hold to 
require ; rack your dibber quickly from side to side before you 
withdraw it from the earth, to enlarge somewhat the hole and 
prevent the surfax^e sides filling it in ; then put the root of 
your plant into the hole just made, an inch or two deeper than 
it stood in the seed-bed, holding it steadily with your left 
hand. The moment it is in position, force yom- dibber down 
about two inches to the right of it, not quite perpendicularly, 
but pointing inward, as if to pass under the root of the plant. 
As soon as the proper depth is attained, which should be about 
the same as that of the hole first made, bring your dibber up- 
right to the side of the plant by a sudden motion of your right 
hand toward the left, thus pressing the earth against it from 
the bottom upward ; having set it firmly in its place by this 
movement, withdraw the dibber, and a single stroke with its 
point across the side-hole will fill it in and complete the opera- 
tion. In this manner a rapid planter will set from five to ten 
plants per minute. 

If the distances for yom' plants are not marked, measure 
them with the eye as you plant, and proceed in the same man- 
ner to the end. 

All transplanted crops should be lightly and carefully hoed 
within two or three days of the time they were set out, to start 
them at once and healthfully on their growth, and for the first 
two weeks at least should be daily watched, to catch the cut- 
worm, which may otherwise destroy them. See Insects. 



•:)() AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

CROP RIDGING. 
Ridging for crop is performed in the preparation of the land 
for sowing or planting by first opening a furrow with the plow 
or spade, in which the manure intended for the crop is spi^ead 
thickly, whereupon the two furrow^s, as in ordinary ridging, 
are thrown over it ; the ridges being then partially flattened 
l)y running a rake or hook along each, or passing over them 
the back of a wide, light harrow, or a mere bar, or a roller, if 
the nature of the manure seem to require it, the seed is sown 
or planted along the centre, and covered in one of the ordinary 
modes. In ridging potatoes the seed is usually laid immedi- 
ately upon the manure, and then covered and finished as above 
directed. Ridging for crop is often found economical and ad- 
vantageous in mild, moist climates or on wet soils, but under 
all ordinary circumstances " flat culture" is preferable. 

HILLING. 

In agriculture, hilling is, like ridging, opposed to flat cul- 
ture, but difiers from ridging in that the hill is formed by 
throwing furrows together both ways by cross plowing. 

When the crop is to be manured in the hill, deep fun-ows 
are nm each way at suitable distances, and the manure, being 
carted on, is dropped into the fiu-row at the point of intersec- 
tion. The planting of the crop is then completed either by 
dropping the seed directly upon the manure, as for potatoes, 
or by first hoeing over the manure a slight coat of earth, upon 
which the seed, as in corn or pole beans, is dropj)ed, and the 
covering of both seed and manm-e completed with the hoe ; or 
the manure, if coarse, is first covered by throwing together two 
furrows over it, as in ridging, and then planting the crop upon 
it with the hoe or other implement, the hills proper being 
formed in the after cultivation of the crop. 

In gardening, and to some extent in farming also, the term 
" hilling" has become so far modified in its meaning as not 
necessarily to imply that the earth is materially gathered 
around the plants, but simply that the plants themselves are 
set, or the seeds planted in small clumps of three, or four, or 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 91 

five, with spaces between the so-called hills greater than would 
be left if the plants stood in single line. " Hilling," there- 
fore, in gardening, is opposed to " rowing," and may or may 
not involve the idea of a raised mound of earth. 

The advantages of hilling are various. 

1st, Crops set or so^vn in hills, even when the earth is not 
materially raised around the plants, are more easily tended 
than in rows. 

2d. They are still more easily tended if the earth be so 
raised ; the hilling-up from time to time enabling us to cover 
and thus stifle the young weeds which must otherwise be re- 
moved by hand. 

3d. In crops requiring poles, hilling has the great advan- 
tage of one pole serving for several plants ; and in corn-crops, 
the raised surface meets the strong stay-roots which are thrown 
out from the lower joint of the stalk and braces it against the 
wind, which in fiat cultui'e AYOuld be likely to prostrate the 
crop. 

4th. All crops are probably benefited by some additions of 
fresh earth around the plants during growth, supplying new 
food to the young roots, which push rapidly into it, especially 
after the growing crop begins to shade the sui'face. 

Hills, however, should always be made broad and somewhat 
flat rather than high arid conical. The latter form throws oflF 
the water from the plant, the former retains it, thus co-oper- 
ating with and seconding the natural arrangement by which 
each leaf of corn is made a groove or channel to convey moist- 
ure to the stem and plant ; and each large leaf of the giant 
pie-plant, being slightly incurved, is set to catch the falling 
dew and rain, its stem forming the gutter by which it is car- 
ried to the root ; and so of many other plants, with varied 
adaptation to the same end. 

CROP PLOWING. 
In large or farm-garden operations, where the rows are wide, 
much of the labor of cultivating crops in the progress of their 
growth is performed with the small single or the half mould- 
board plow, which are used in the ordinary manner of careful 



92 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

corn and potato plowing, and generally should be followed by a 
light corn-harrow. 

In certain crops, however, it is important to loosen the soil 
more deeply than can be safely done by either of these, and the 
skeleton plow is used, which, with a single narrow-stepping 
horse or mule, can be put beam deep, sometimes at the first 
stroke, and almost always at the second ; and though it throws 
scarcely any furrow, yet it is well to follow it with a single 
stroke of the corn-haiTow. The use of some one or more of 
these small plows, aided by a light corn-harrow, is of great 
value to growing crops. If frequently and faithfully used, 
scarcely any crop that is seasonably sown will be found to suf- 
fer from any ordinary continuance of drought. 

HOEING. 

The directions so often repeated in this work, to " hoe fre- 
quently and deeply," may seem to the inexperienced superflu- 
ous ; it may be thought that hoeing is useful only for the pur- 
pose of killing weeds. The cultivator of a garden could scarce- 
ly make a greater mistake. It is admitted as a demonstrated 
fact in vegetable physiology that plants receive their food 
principally, if not entirely, by the spongioles, or extreme ves- 
sels of their root-fibres. !Now in the deep hoeing of crops, the 
extending roots of the plant are cut, and every tender growing 
root thus cut will in a few hours throw out several new ones, 
pushing in various directions, and some of these being cut by 
subsequent hoeings, the ramifications of the roots ai'e greatly 
increased, and in an equal, or perhaps even in a greater ratio, 
their spongioles or mouths are multiplied. 

Again : modern science has shown that ammonia is the great 
quickener and an essential supporter of vegetable life, and that 
the atmosphere is the reservoir or chief som-ce for supplying 
it. By deep hoeing the soil is most thoroughly pulverized ; 
it is so loosened that the young roots can seek their food with 
facility ; it is opened to the air and dews of night, which bring 
with them at once the ammonia which furnishes the material 
of their food, and the moisture, combination with which is prob- 
ably essential to its reception by the plant. (See Manures, p. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 93 

60.) This, however, like all other garden operations, may be 
performed wisely or unwisely. No set of rules will allow the 
cultivator to lay aside his judgment and common sense, and go 
on blindly to success ; but the following suggestions will be 
found useful in practice. 

1st. In the early stages of their growth, all garden crops 
should be frequently and deeply hoed ; that is, in fruit or seed- 
bearing plants, as cucumbers, beans, &c., until the blossoms are 
about to appear ; in heading vegetables, until the heads are 
about to form ; and in root crops, until they are about to swell, 
or until they attain from half to three quarters of an inch di- 
ameter. Most crops, too, will be greatly benefited by being 
plowed or dug thi'ough between the rows, wherever this is prac- 
ticable, at least once during their growth. 

2d. Crops, when nearing maturity, if hoed at all, should be 
hoed shallow, unless it be at such a distance as will leave the 
larger roots entirely undisturbed. For this purpose, the thrust 
hoe may be used to advantage. 

WATERING. 
As a common practice or system, watering crops is not de- 
sirable ; but occasionally it may become necessary for a brief 
period, either upon newly-sown seeds in very dry weather, or 
young plants but recently set out. It should be done in the 
evening if at all, but generally it will be found better to de- 
pend on timing your crops well, sowing or setting them in 
ground freshly prepared, and cultivating them deeply, than on 
the laborious and often futile practice of watering, unless, in- 
deed, as in rainless Egypt, the peculiarities of your climate 
necessitate systematic irrigation. 



94 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Insects; general Characteristics of ; Changes of ; Prevalence of. — Means of 
Defense and Offense against them. 

INSECTS. 

Insects, in general, complete the round of their life, or rath- 
er lives, in one year. There are some exceptions, however, as 
the well-known seventeen-year locust, and also some three and 
four year insects, as the saperda, the May-bug, and the spring 
beetle or snapper, parents of the apple-tree borer, the corn- 
grub, and the wire- worm. But, whether the period in which 
their changes occur be short or long, they are all definitely ef- 
fected. The young are hatched, or the insect wakes from its 
torpor at the time of the opening of the leaves or flowers upon 
which they have to feed ; and if, from any cause, they hatch 
before their food is ready, they die, although this rarely, if ever, 
happens. 

They are air-breathers, with varied apparatus for this pur- 
pose suited to their condition, and changing with it. In the 
larva, or worm state, they are commonly fm'nished with spir- 
acles or breathing-holes along their sides. 

Their digestive apparatus consists, as in the snipe or wood- 
cock, of a single uniform tube. In its passage through this 
simple opening, their food is elaborated, and the colorless blood 
formed. This, in their system of circulation, is carried with 
regularity from tail to head, and back again, passing in its re- 
tm-n through the respiratory tubes. While in the larva or worm 
state, they are voracious and generally injurious. They eat, 
and digest, and spin through their allotted time, all the indi- 
viduals of the same kind having equal life, however varied the 
limit of life in this condition may be in the different species. 
At the close of this definite period they take the chrysalis form, 
changing their appearance, structure, and mode of existence. 

Having completed their organization and growth in the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 95 

chrysales, they become, by a curious metamorphosis, moths or 
butterflies ; they are entirely harmless to vegetation, not chew- 
ing, but sucking their food ; and after living a few days to per- 
fect and deposit their eggs, they perish. Of those species 
which assume the form of beetles, having cutting or biting ap- 
paratus, some are injurious both in the state of larvae and when 
winged. These do not spin cocoons, but the naked worm or 
grub passes through a state of torpor and change in the earth. 

Most kinds of insects have periods, recm-ring at longer or 
shorter intervals, in which they are unusually abmidant and 
destructive, becoming in a single season a scourge to neighbor- 
hoods or nations, and again declining to their ordinary num- 
bers. They also vary greatly with climate, locality, and crop, 
each of these having its peculiar general classes or species. 
The soft, slimy insects, as the slug and snail, which are the 
pests of the garden in moist and foggy island climates, are 
scarcely known under our bright summer sun, except in pecul- 
iarly wet seasons ; and many of the insects of hot southerly 
latitudes disappear as we go north or rise high above the level 
of the ocean, or are found, like summer visitors, only in the 
heart of the season. In swampy lands, or by rivers, we find 
insects that do not frequent the dry uplands ; in sandy locali- 
ties, those from which clay soils are exempt. 

The pea-bug is not found in corn, nor the wheat-fly in Lima 
beans, nor the parsley-worm upon the cabbage, but each ad- 
heres to its appropriate plant or class of plants. Some, how- 
ever, take a wider range in their depredations. The rose-bug 
attacks indiscriminately the blossoms of the rose, the peony, 
or the grape-vine, the leaves of the oak, the elm, or the linden, 
and the fruit of the cheiTy, &c. 

Insects that infest or injure garden vegetables, however, do 
not materially differ south and north, but are fomid in all lati- 
tudes in their specific seasons. In general, they belong to the 
crop and the season rather than to the particular latitude, a 
single wet, cool season producing multitudes of the softer slimy 
insects, which a bright hot summer prevents or destroys. Most 
species of winged insects, on the contrary, are born and rejoice 
in the sunlight, and many larvae, as the nest-Avorm and others 



96 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

of the caterpillar tribes, ai-e stimulated to their most lively vo- 
racity by the bright heat. 

The remedies prescribed in this work will be found, in'gen- 
eral, to apply to classes of insects rather than merely to single 
species, and may therefore be made available in any locality. 

The first care of the cultivator should be to make himself 
accurately acquainted with the formation, character, and habits 
of those varieties of insects which his climate or locality may 
produce, or which his crops invite, particularly their times of 
first appearance and subsequent changes. Upon such knowl- 
edge, well applied, he may often find the profits of his labor 
depending. It is as necessary to him as the diagnosis of dis- 
ease to the physician. 

The known and reliable means of defense from the ravages 
of insects are very limited. The field of patient and intelli- 
gent observation and experiment in this department remains 
comparatively unexplored, and may be entered with abundant 
prospect of reward by any one of my readers. 

There are, however, a few points which it may be useful to 
mention. 

1st. Insects have natm-al enemies in the parasites, or ich- 
neumons, that deposit their eggs in the body of the insect or 
its larva, or in the chrysalis. In these living nests the young 
interloper is hatched, and lives upon the substance and de- 
stroys the life of his victim. These hidden foes, of which it is 
probable each variety of insect has at least one, are always 
present, always active, and can not be eluded. Others war open- 
ly, as the short yellow worm, the larva of the syi'phus, that 
lives upon the cabbage aphis, blind, but always following his 
prey ; also the numerous aphis-eaters, as the larv^ae of the spot- 
ted or " lace-winged" and " golden-eyed" flies, and the lady- 
bug, both in the larv^a and perfect state. These natural ene- 
mies Ave can transfei; from plant to plant when necessary, thus 
putting them upon the track of their prey. 

Among larger insects, their foes are the di'agon-fly or darn- 
ing-needle, and especially a smaller blackish fly, looking like a 
cross between a dragon-fly and wasp, which hunts for his food 
with the activity and intelligence of a terrier. The birds, also, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 97 

and the bat live largely upon insects, which they consume both 
in the larva and the winged state, and the toad, though not a 
spry hunter, can often and expertly catch, a fly. 

Moles, also, and some ground-beetles destroy the various 
grubs that are hatched or harbored in the earth. 

Some insects have protectors. Ants are said to guard the 
aphides, and, by a peculiar process, milk them, or, perhaps more 
truly, by a startling threat, to rob them of the sweet juices they 
suck from plants. 

2d. We have also opportunities for escaping their depreda- 
tions by changing a little the period of sowing or planting, 
though this also may sometimes expose us to other inconven- 
iences. 

Late-sown wheat has been found to escape, at least in part, 
the depredations of the fly or the weevil. Late-sown peas are 
not so liable to be punctured by the pea-bug, but they are pe- 
culiarly exposed to check and mildew from the heat, which by 
early sowing they would have escaped. But late-planted win- 
ter cabbages not only escape the cut-worm, but, if driven into 
rapid growth by careful after-cultivation, are improved in qual- 
ity by the delay. 

3d. Insects have tastes and distastes, of which we may per- 
haps avail ourselves in self-defense. As they carefully avoid 
certain plants, we may mix these with those which they attack, 
and try thus to shield them. Onion, hemp, tobacco, and tomato 
have been suggested and recommended for the protection of 
cucumbers, melons, &c., on this principle. There is, however, 
a difficulty in the application of it. A single plant of either 
of the three last named in each hill, left to grow unchecked, 
will monopolize possession and destroy the crop ; whether if 
kept closely trimmed they would efiect the end, or whether, if 
they would, the labor could not be better applied, are questions 
to be answered. The onion, as well as several small herbs with 
strong odors, may be well worthy of trial. We have also some 
other means of offending them, which will be mentioned in con- 
nection with the several insects. 

4th. We possess various means of injming or destroying 
them» There are certain points in the history of insect life 

E 



98 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Avhen we may successfully assail it, viz, : a. In the eggs, which, 
in nests of from ten to a hundred, we may gather by hand, or 
scrape from the trees on which they are deposited, b. In the 
chrysales or cocoons, which are often more easily found and 
gathered than the eggs. c. Li the perfect or winged state, by 
means of fires in their season, d. For those kinds which make 
nests, the period of weakness immediately succeeding the hatch- 
ing of the young colony, when they may be crushed at once. We 
possess also various other means of injuring or destroying them. 
Upon some we may sow lime or plaster with effect ; others are 
destroyed by drenching with fatty or soapy matter, which kills 
them by stopping their breathing-tubes, or with water, which 
simply drowns them, as the palmer-worm has been found to be 
destroyed by violent rain. We may gather them by hand, or 
entrap them with sweets, and in various other ways. But to 
all this labor there is a limit of wisdom, which it is not Avortli 
Avhile to pass. The general principle may be confidently 
adopted, that only those insects which attack healthy crops and 
cause disease will repay the trouble of cure or catching. The 
sole remedy, or rather preventive, for those induced or invited 
by disease, as the root-worm, the cabbage aphis, the cucumber 
striped bug, &c., is the preservation of vigor in the crop by 
timely and suitable culture. In more than thirty years' expe- 
rience and observation, I have never known a healthy crop of 
cucumbers materially injured by the striped bug, nor a diseased 
or checked crop that escaped the bug, or that was restored by 
the destruction of its supposed destroyer. 

In the following list of insects, all that are injurious to gar- 
den vegetables in every locality may not be included, but the 
number inadvertently omitted must be small, and such descrip- 
tions, and directions, and hints are given in regard to those 
enumerated as will perhaps furnish aid in reference to others 
that may have been left out. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 99 



CHAPTER X. 

Insects injurious to Garden Vegetables, &c. — Aphides. — Larvffi, orWonna. 

— Moles. 

WINGED INSECTS, 
Aphides, or " Green Flies," &c. 

Fig. 62. 





n, natural size ; 6, b, magnified. 

Cabbage Aphis, Aphis Brasicse, 
Com " " Maidis, . ^. 

Hop " " Humuli, >^ig-'3^- 

Lettuce " " Lactucae^J 

The cabbage, corn, hop, and lettuce aphides, though distin- 
guished by entomologists, need not be distinguished here. 
Their names indicate the particular plants they infest, the rem- 
edies are the same for all, and each, we may be sure, is pursued 
by its destroyers. 

The first is found on all unhealthy and ill-cultivated cab- 
bages, and the only remedy, or rather preventive, is good cul- 
ture, successful in producing unchecked growth. 

The second appears only occasionally, and usually or always 
upon the green ear- set of the corn, at the extremity of the 
husk. 

The third is sometimes troublesome upon the hop, where it 
is cultivated as a farm crop. Showering with pretty strong 
tobacco- water, or sowing dry ashes, or lime, or plaster upon 
them in the dew, are worthy of trial with a view to their pre- 
vention or destruction. 




100 AMEBIC AN HOME GARDEN. 

The fourth is found only on the seed- stalk branches of the 
lettuce, and the applications above named for the hop may be 
used for this, if found needful. 



CUCUMBER BUG. (Striped.) 
GALERUCA VITTATA. 

The striped cucumber bug is an active black and yellow 
Fig. 63. ^ striped beetle, about one fourth of an inch long, 
which attacks the cucumber, melon, and other 
kindred plants, especially when from any cause 
those plants become diseased or checked in 
growth. It eats the leaf tissue until the veins 
only are left as a net-work, and fastens upon 
't, magnified. ' tho stcm just at the surface of the gromid, and 
eats into its substance. Fortunately, well-cultivated and 
healthly plants escape it almost entirely, or easily outgrow its 
injuries ; but plants in poor or cold soil, or where the seed is 
sown or planted while spring is yet only coming, or too direct- 
ly upon heating manure put into the hills, or in a continuous 
drouth in hot sand or gravel, will either perish quickly under 
its attacks, or linger along and fail at last in spite of eflfort to 
restore them. 

Various preventives, some of which may be worthy of far- 
ther trial, have been suggested, such as planting an onion, or 
a tomato, etc., in each hill. Numerous remedies have also 
been proposed, as soot, lime, ashes, plaster, snuff, etc., to which 
may be added, as equally efficient, sand. They are all mere 
temporary disturbers of the insect, which, from its timidity, 
retreats instantly upon the slightest annoyance, either hiding 
quickly under leaves, or in the earth, or at once flying away. 
They may apparently be almost driven in a flock by a liberal 
broadcast of any powder, but for the rest, even if it be Scotch 
snuff, it may be presumed they only sneeze. 

Let your ground, then, for these crops be thoroughly pre- 
pared, wait for warm weather to plant in, and when the young 
plants appear, let them have prompt and continued care, and, 
if need be, stimulus, as liquid manure, until they are beyond 




AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. ' 101 

the reach of the bug. (See also Squash Bug.) Besides these, 
cucumbers are sometimes troubled with a small jumping bee- 
tle, like the turnip bug, the Haltica cucumeris, for which the 
proposed remedies for the striped bug may be found really use- 
ful, particularly soot, ashes, or snuff. 

PEA BUG OR WEEVIL. 
BRUCHUS PISI. 
This is the small brown bug sometimes so abundant in 
dried peas, and is produced from an j,. g^ 

egg which generally is deposited in 
each of the young peas by punctming 
them through the pod while it is yet "^^ 
tender. Occasionally, however, in very 
large peas, two or even three punctures 
will be found on the same side, the «' '^'^^^ai size ; 6, magnified. 

operator having mismeasm-ed distance ; and sometimes they 
are punctured on both sides, probably by different individuals, 
the last one unaware that the dwelling was already tenanted. 

Nearly on the opposite side from the round hole by which 
the bug finds its outlet from the ripe seed a small brown spot 
will usually, if not always, be found upon the pea, which is the 
healed punctm'e where the egg was deposited. 

The insect makes these punctures along the side of the pod, 
and the general course taken by the young worm being more 
or less directly to the opposite side, it becomes apparent that 
the eye of the pea, which is at the point of attachment to the 
pod at its inner or fi'ont edge, will seldom be injured; but, 
notwithstanding this, peas which the bug has eaten should not 
be used for seed, especially in a cold spring, when, not vegetat- 
ing quickly, they are apt to water-soak and rot. 

The pea bug belongs to warm weather and localities. It is 
unknown in high northern latitudes, and any where north of 
40° it is avoided by selecting an elevated region, or by put- 
ting off sowing until the latter end of May. 

The crow blackbird and the Baltimore oriole are said to 
seek the young worms, but are of no practical importance as 
destroyers. 



102 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



In small quantities seed-peas may be scalded, while stirred, 
before sowing, which is said to destroy the bug ; more confi- 
dence may perhaps be placed in soaking until the peas begin 
to vegetate, and this may be safely done if they are then roil- 
ed in plaster (gypsum), quickly sown upon fresh-plowed land, 
and covered without being suffered to lie exposed to the sun. 
Or we may sow only two-year-old seed-peas, keeping them in 
tight barrels, and sifting out and destroying the weevils in the 
spring or summer of the first season. It is presumed that the 
insect deposits eggs only in the pea, and if so, it would seem 
to be dependent upon our care of the ofispring for perpetuation. 

SQUASH BUG. 
COREUS TRISTIS. 

The squash bug, sometimes erroneously called turtle bug, is 
Fig- 65. generally a dark brown or blackish bug, 

rather quick in its movements, ridged 
across above the shoulders, the whole 
having an angular or lined appearance, 
somewhat resembling a shield with its 
quarterings. It is a foul, fetid bug, the 
companion of the striped cucumber bug 
in its ravages among vegetable vines. 
It is less numerous and less lively, but 
larger and more destructive in propor- 
tion to its numbers, eating the leaf more 
voraciously, and more completely de- 
stroying the stem. Its eggs are laid in June and July. It is 
timid and quick to hide, but may be caught by hand in the cool 
of the morning from any crop which it infests, and crushed. 
It often enters the house in the fall of the year. 

TURNIP BUG OR FLY. 
HALTICA NEMORUM. 

A little black bug or beetle, about' one tenth of an inch in 
length, which springs when disturbed, and on this account is 
by some called Jumping Jack. In certain seasons the various 
species of this insect become very numerous upon the young 




Magnified nearly twice tlie 
natural size. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



103 




plants of turnips and cabbages, sometimes eating them entirely 
Fig. 66. off before the third leaf is formed. When 
prevailing, they destroy with equal prompt- 
itude the plants in a small seed bed or a 
breadth of acres. 

Soaking and stirring the seed in sulphur 
water, and rolling the surface after sowing, 
have been recommended as preventives, as 
a, natural size ; 6, magni- wcll as the sowiug of ashcs and piaster upon 
the young plants ; and where the turnip crop 
is esteemed, they are sometimes caught in the throat of a light 
bag, made with a pronged frame in the fashion of a shrimp- 
net, which is carried steadily over the surface of the land in 
precisely the same manner as the shrimp-net is carried over 
the flats. But as it is a short-lived pest, it is generally better 
to dig or plow the gromid a second time, and resow the crop, 
taking care to give it a vigorous start. 

For this purpose, few things will be found more efficient than 
coating the seed thoroughly with common whale oil, and dry- 
ing it off with plaster immediately before sowing, taking care 
to cover it completely but lightly, and gently roll the ground, 
or beat it moderately with the back of the rake. 



GRASSHOPPER. 

ACRYDIUM PLAVOVITTATUM. 

Fig. 6T. 




Natural size. 



Once in a series of years, particularly in certain localities, 
grasshoppers become a resistless scourge, consuming every young 
green crop ; but in ordinary seasons the garden may be defend- 



104 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



ed against them by incessantly driving them with sand thrown 
broadcast over crops as often as they are attacked, aided by 
fowls, particularly broods of young turkeys, which thrive finely 
upon them. 

LARV^ OR WORMS. 

CABBAGE WORMS. 

Fig. CS. 

LABOEB CABBAGE WOEM, WITH ITS PARENT BITTTEEFLY. 




«, Larva ; b, Colias Philodice. 
Fig. C9. 

SMALLER OABBAOG WORM, WITH ITS SUPrOSEB PARENT HCTn!RFLT. 




a, Larva ; 6, Pontea Oleracea. 

These are pale green or yellow worms, from an inch to an 
inch and a half long, with some dark spots, which are found 
more or less every season upon cabbages and some other plants. 
Individually they are fast feeders, but their number is limited, 
and of comse so is the injm-y they do. Birds also destroy 
them. They should be hand-picked and crushed. These 
worms are the progeny of the common large and small white 
and spotted butterflies. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



105 



There is another pretty spotted wonn that coils itself up on 
the cabbage ; it is the painted caterpillar, larva of the Mamestra 
picta. It is rather rare, and its appetite not very voracious. 

The larva of the Cerostoma brasicella is a yellowish green 
•worm, described by Fitch as alx)ut one third (0.35) of an inch 
long, and of the thickness of a coarse knitting-needle, tapering 
somewhat to both ends, with sixteen legs, and very active, hav- 
ing sometimes a dark head. The moth which produces it is 
about the same length, and of an ash-gray color. 

The worm, in certain localities, appears upon the cabbage in 
October, particularly in dry seasons, and feeds chiefly upon the 
loose outer leaves, thoroughly riddling them. At length it 
spins a thin gauze-like cocoon, which it attaches to the eaten 
leaf. 

It is not extensively injurious, but simply disagreeable upon 
a vegetable intended for food. It has its parasitic foe, the 
smaller brown cocoons of which will be found near by. 



CORN GRUB. 
Fig. 70. 

LARV^, WITH THBIK PARENT BUGS. 





a, a, Larvse. 





b, Melolontha vulgaris, or May-beetle. c, Melolontlia copris, or Tumble-bug. 

The corn grub is a whitish, fat, disgusting grub, from one 
to two inches long, which is often found greatly to injure com 

E 2 



106 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

as well as grass by eating the roots, sometimes destroying them 
so completely in sod-land that the grass may be rolled from the 
sm-face like a sheared fleece. It especially prevails among 
com or potatoes planted in newly-plowed sod-land. Plowing 
in the fall has been thought to expose the grub to destruction 
by the frost, the birds, &c. On spring-plowed sod lime sown 
at the rate of forty bushels per acre, or salt at the rate of five 
or six bushels, before the last harrowing, will be found of ad- 
vantage. The fall plowing is probably to be preferred, and, if 
convenient, the lime also may be applied after the spring plow- 
ing. Crows, jays, and some other birds seek the grubs eager- 
ly, and destroy large numbers of them every season. 

Their changes are completed in the ground, and in due time 
the May-bug makes its appearance. This is the rather large, 
short, light brown beetle, with rough, or ridged and slightly- 
punctured wings, and feet that feel like claws, which abounds 
in cherry-trees in the spring evenings, flying with a humming 
sound, and often striking with some force against an object in 
its track, when in general it quietly settles and folds its large 
gauze inner wings entirely under the hard cases which cover 
and shield them. In the day it lies quietly among the leaves, 
or returns to its hiding-place in the sod. Its eggs are de- 
posited in the earth, and in two weeks the small grubs are 
hatched. 

The European variety of May-bug, which om'S closely resem- 
bles, becomes a scourge at times, stripping whole forests of their 
foliage ; and it is generally said that ours eats the leaves of 
cherry and other trees. Fitch reports a single instance of its 
serious depredations, but I have never kno'wn it to do noticea- 
ble injui'y to any thing, and mention it among injurious insects 
only on account of its connection with my subject as parent of 
the corn-grub. As the May-bugs are, in general, much more 
easily caught than the grub, it is desirable to destroy them as 
far as possible. They may be caught in numbers at midday, 
and more freely toward evening, by being shaken from the trees 
into a sheet, and destroyed by crushing, or scalding, or fire. 

The grub of the tumble-bug or dung beetle, Melolontha co- 
pris, is supposed to have similar bad habits with the former, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



107 



but it is comparatively scarce and of little consequence, and the 
same natural enemies repress its increase. 

CUCUMBER BORER. 
LARVA OF JEGERIA CUCURBITS. 

The winged insect is orange-colored, with some black spots 
on the body, and black and orange -colored hairs fringing its 
legs. The eggs are deposited near the roots of the plants in 
July and August. 

The larva is a small worm that sometimes destroys cucum- 
ber and squash vines after they are well grown, or even in 
fruit, by eating off the skin of the main root, and boring it, 
when, of course, the whole vine wilts and dies. It is not very 
common, but in some seasons makes naked spots in the squash 
or cucumber patch. All vines found wilting from this cause 
should be immediately carried away, and the stems and roots be 
burned, or boiled, or macerated for some hours in water poured 
hot upon them, thus preventing the perpetuation and increase 
of the insect. 

CUT WORM. 

Fig. 71. 

LAEVA, WITH PARENT MOTH. 




o, Larva. 



6, Agrotis devastator. 



This moth, says Fitch, is of a grayish brown, and, when 
spread, measures from an inch and a quarter to an inch and a 
half across. Extending from the base of the wing along the 
inside of the inner stripe is a broad black or dark-brown streak, 
crossed by two slender pale bars, not parallel, whence it is 
named the dart moth ; this is its distinctive mark. 



108 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

The moths that become the parent of the cut worm are not 
certainly known, but are supposed by Dr. Fitch to be the dart 
moth above referred to, and other evening or owlet moths of 
similar character. 

The eggs are dropped upon the ground in the latter part of 
summer ; they soon hatch, and the young worm crawls into 
the ground and feeds upon the roots and young shoots of her- 
baceous plants. When cold weather comes it descends a few 
inches below the surface, and remains torpid till spring. Late 
in the summer it becomes a chrysalis, which resembles a long, 
thin egg, of a chestnut-brown color, having several impressed 
rings or joints toward its pointed or tail end. From this, in 
three or four weeks, the miller or moth comes forth, the parent 
of another generation. 

The cut worm is of various shades, from light drab to black, 
and of different varieties, which are not clearly distinguished 
by writers on insects. Most of them have the habit, whence 
their name is derived, of cutting off the young leaves or ten- 
der stems of plants just above the ground, and drawing them 
into the mouth of their hole, fm'nishing, like some other thieves, 
a clew to discovery by the effort to hide. 

The red-headed cut worms, or tiger worms, found south of 
New York, cut under ground. Their depredations are contin- 
ued throughout the summer upon the yomig corn, beans, pep- 
pers, etc., but they are most numerous in June and July, at 
which time they are so destructive to the young, freshly-set 
cabbage-plants that it is common for market-gardeners to de- 
fer planting until they disappear, which they generally do near 
New York before the first of August, going deeper into the 
ground, and assuming the chrysalis form. 

The crow, with some other birds, and a species of dragon-fly, 
are inveterate enemies of the cut worm, and Fitch recom- 
mends the making of deep tioles with a stick about their places 
of resort, into which they fall, and, it is supposed, can not get 
out. This, however, would appeal' not only doubtful, but also 
as involving, perhaps, more labor than the ordinary and direct 
course, which is simply to glance along the rows of your crop 
early in the day, and, wherever the presence of the marauder is 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 109 

detected, either by a cut leaf or a wilted plant, search for him 
just below the surface and crush him. 

HEART WORM. 
Called also Top Worm. Spindle Worm. 

LARVA OF THE GORTYNIA ZEA. 

The moth is of a rust-red color, somewhat mottled with gray, 
and having a few black dots. 

The larva is a rather slender and active yellowish-green 
worm, with dark head, and sjwts and rings. It is from half 
an inch to an inch long. Hatched in, or entering the side of 
the corn-plant, it eats into it when from three to nine inches 
high, consuming the heart or spindle of the young spear, and 
where it abounds the crop of corn is greatly lessened or de- 
stroyed. It infests also ■ the dahlia and some other plants. 
Remedy : catch and crush him, or stop his hole, and pour into 
the plant a little weak ley. Perhaps, if attended to early, he 
might be crushed, without injuring the growth, by carefully 
compressing the young spear between the thumb and finger, 
or a fine wire passed into his hole might pierce him. 

The "corn-borer" or bill-bug of the South is of similar 
habit, though operating upon the crop at a later period of its 
growth. The same remedies may be used for both as far as 
practicable. For the latter the annual fall burning of the 
corn-stumps, in which the chrysales are formed and pass the 
winter, has been found an efiectual check. 

HOP WORM. 
LARVA OP THE HYPENA HUMULI. 

The hop worm is about an inch long when full grown, of a 
greenish- white color, watery-looking or semi-transparent, and 
slightly striped and dotted, having fom'teen legs. The mouth 
is yellowish, and the tips of the jaws black. 

The moth is about an inch long, and varies in color from 
quite dark to a dull white. The worms appear early in June, 
and continue until late in August, feeding upon and nearly 
consuming the tissue of the leaves. 



110 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



The common remedy of syringing or showering the vines 
with strong soap-suds, or with a solution of whale-oil soap, is 
prescribed for this and some other insects which commonly or 
occasionally infest hop-vines. 



PARSLEY WORM. 

Fig. 72. 

LAEVA, WITH PABENT BUTTERFLY. 




a, Larva ; 6, Papilio Troilus. 

This is a yellowish-green worm, with black streaks and spots, 
and a pair of hidden yellowish fleshy horns, united at the base, 
which it throws up when disturbed, and from which an offensive 
and sickening odor is emitted. It is from an inch to two inch- 
es long, not very numerous, but rather voracious. It feeds upon 
the parsley, parsnep, and some other plants. The only known 
remedy is to catch and crush him. 

ROOT WORMS. 
Turnip Root Worm. 

Larva of Antuomtia Canicctlakis. 

■ Radish Root Worm. 

Larva of Anthomyia Raphani, or Eadicum op Etoopk. 

Onion Root Worm. 

Labva op Anthomyia Cepaeum. 

The anthomyia3, which, according to Harris, are the parents 
of these various root worms, are the small " flower flies," which 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 111 

appear and swarm like certain kinds of gnats, or like the small 
flies that frequent foul spots and ordure. 

The worms are white, and usually from a quarter to half an 
inch long. They are found only in diseased vegetables, as 
stunted radishes, cabbages, or turnips. The true remedy is to 
pull and burn or boil the crop as soon as it is discovered to be 
infested, and endeavor to avoid such necessity in future by 
timely sowing and good culture. 

WIRE WORM, OR RED WORM. 
Fig. T3. j^ reddish-brown worm, produced by the 

LARVA, WITH PARENT , , 

J5PG- click-bug, about an inch long, with a very 

"' ' tough, smooth skin, slightly hinged or joint- 
ed. It enters the root or under-ground por- 
tion of the stem of plants, and eats its way 
up through the heart, causing death, 

«, Larva; 6, Elater se- /-^ n i • i 

getis, or Click-bug. lienerally these insects are rather scarce 
and shy, but at certain periods, and in different and limited sec- 
tions, a sudden and large increase takes place, and they become 
very destructive to corn and other crops. Among garden veg- 
etables they sometimes attack lettuce, and the pink tribe among 
flowers. They can scarcely be crushed in the earth ; to catch 
them by hand, and either cut or pull them in two, or crush them 
upon a stone, seems the only promising mode of open warfare ; 
but they are sometimes baited with slices of turnip or potato 
laid upon or just under the ground, which they enter, and are 
gathered daily and destroyed. 

BEE WORM. 

Fig. T4. 

LAEVA, WITU PARENT MOTHS. 






a, Larva ; b, Galleria ceit in i i ii il > 

The bee worm is a yellowish- white worm, with brownish 




112 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

j-jg 74 dots, having sixteen legs. When 

first hatched, it is not much thicker 
than a thread, but attains its full 
size in about three "weeks. The 
moth is about three fourths of an 
inch long, of a dusty gray color, 

c, Galleria cereana (female). iii • ,^ tii ,i 

dashed with purplish bro"\\Ti, the 
female being somewhat darker and larger than the male. The 
wings, which slope back flatly, are notched, and turned up a lit- 
tle at the end. The moth lays her eggs in the dirt or crevices 
near the mouth of the hive, or enters at night and deposits 
them in the chinks inside. In about two weeks the small 
thread-like worm is hatched, which soon becomes covered with 
a silky tube, spun from the wax on which it feeds. Keeping 
itself always incased in this, where the bees' stings can not 
penetrate, or masked by a thick coating of wax, which prevents 
their approach, it labors incessantly to destroy the cells which 
the bees have so industriously and skillfully built. Two broods 
are hatched in a season, and if neglected through the summer, 
the strong silken cocoons or webs become, by the beginning of 
fall, very numerous in the infested hives, and almost the whole 
of the comb broken and defiled, so that at length the bees ai'o 
wearied and driven out. In hot and dry seasons they are 
most troublesome, especially to weak swarms. 

The presence of the bee worm in a hive may be known by 
the wax-dust and black castings of the worm lying upon the 
floor. If the quantity of these is small, a careful examination 
of the upper parts of the hive, destroying the Avorms as you go, 
may suffice ; but if large, showing that the enemy is in consid- 
erable force, you had better drive the bees, that is, provide a 
hive of the same size, put in plenty of rests or cross-sticks, 
and wash the inside with hop tea sweetened to a sirup ; early 
in the evening, before the bees get very sleepy, having closed 
the mouths of both hives, turn the old one bottom upwai^d, and 
quickly fit the new one over it ; drum upon the outside of the 
former, and the bees will leave it. Before morning, place the 
new hive upon a new, clean stand, with food upon it sufficient 
for a week ; shut in the bees for that time, and for the second 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 113 

week keep them fed, and let them out only in the edge of the 
evening, aflfording them no time to wander. If found neces- 
sary to strengthen them in their new home, feed the contents 
of the old hive to them, or supply them freely otherwise. 

The following arrangement might perhaps prevent the depre- 
dations of the enemy. Place the stand for your hive upon a 
single centre pillar, and take care that it is no larger than the 
hive, except a small projection in front of the entrance ; put an 
apron of tin entirely around it, extending an inch or two be- 
low the edge ; let it spread upon and cover the small " door- 
step" of the hive. Close even the minutest crevices all around 
with grafting composition No. 3, and whenever there is pecul- 
iar risk of injury from the insects, fit to the door of the hive a 
slide of woven wire, to be closed every evening during the moth 
season. 

MOLES. 

Much injury sometimes results from the running of moles in 
a garden, particularly in light soils, but they also do good in 
the destruction of various insects inhabiting the soil, often more 
than counterbalancing their injuries. If they become too nu- 
merous, they may be caught with a hoe or hook, if watched for 
at their ordinary meal-times, morning, noon, and evening. 
Sometimes they are caught in a small twitch-up trap. There 
are also various patent traps for the purpose, which are more or 
less efficient, A clergyman in New Jersey has recently in- 
vented a spiked dead-fall trap, which is said to be imusually 
effisctive. 

It is stated that pieces of salt codfish put into their runs, or 
castor-beans planted here and there in the garden, will drive 
them away. Any of these expedients may be tried, if thought 
worth while. 



114 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHAPTER XI. 

VEGETABLES FOR THE GARDEN. 

Vegetables for the Garden, etc., with Descriptions and Directions for their 
Culture. — Assortment of Seeds for a Family Garden. 

ARTICHOKE. 
French, AriichatU. — German, Artischohe. — Spanish, Cinauco. Aleachofa. 

PURPLE, GREEN, ETC. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow thinly, or drop single seeds at a distance of tliree or 
four inches in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart. 
Keep them perfectly clear of weeds, and hoe them often through- 
out the season. 

The following spring transplant them into very rich soil, in 
hills four feet apai"t each way, setting one, two, or three plants 
in a hill. Keep them clean and cultivated as before. 

Cover them well with earth or litter for winter. 

Time : sow or transplant in early spring, say April at New 
York. 

The purple (flowered) or green-globe artichoke resembles a 
huge thistle-head, formed with broad, thick scales. The heads 
are cut when of full size, just before blossoming, and being well- 
boiled, are served up with drawn butter. 

The eatable part consists of a thin layer of soft marrowy sub- 
stance upon the inside of each scale, and the thick, tender, 
tabulai' base or bottom upon which the scales and dowm of the 
blossom are set. It may be cultivated as a tit-bit for an epi- 
cure, but would not form a very substantial contribution to a 
farmer's table. 

It may be raised from seed sown at the opening of spring or 
from young suckers ; it requires deep rich soil, and the plants 
or hills should stand at least four feet apart each way. A 
good winter protection of earth or litter is advisable, to be re- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 115 

moved at the opening of spring, when the earth should also he 
lightly dug about them, and the hills dressed. 

The time to cut the heads for use is immediately before the 
appearance of the blossom, just when the centre of the head be- 
gins to open. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, HELIANTHUS TUBEROSUS. 

French, Poire de Terre. — German, Erde Apfel. — Spanish, Girasol. 

This is a tuberous-rooted species of sunflower, which aifords 
tolerable food for hogs when planted in a low rich spot, of which 
it can have full possession until the swine are turned in to 
root it up ; it needs only to be once planted in the manner of 
potatoes to insure a large crop every year, if the hogs are kept 
out until fall, when they will leave enough seed in the ground 
for the next year's crop. 

This root is sometimes used for pickling, or eaten cut up in 
vinegar as cucumbers, and still more rarely boiled for use by 
those who happen to fancy a sweetish, watery potato, which, 
when cooked, it nearly resembles. It has been used to some 
extent for sheep, and even the tops cured for winter fodder, but 
it is probably compai-atively valueless for these purposes. 

ASPARAGUS. 

French, Asperge. — German, ^Spar^'e/.— Spanish, Esparrago. 

GIANT, WHITE, GREEN, ETC. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow thinly in shallow drills twelve inches apart. Hoe 
often, and keep perfectly clear of weeds. At one year old the 
plants may be transplanted into permanent beds, at one foot 
apart each way. Time : sow in the fall or as early in spring 
as practicable. Transplant in spring. 

Asparagus is a well-known and delicious vegetable ; it is 
raised from seed, which may be sown in fall or early spring. 
The plants at one or two years old are transplanted into beds 
at one foot apart each way, or, if cultivated upon a large scale, 
into rows at three feet distance, so as to admit the plow, the 



lit) AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

plants being set one foot apart in the rows. It is absolutely 
necessary to give asparagus a warm, rich soil, and, if it is in- 
tended to make a permanent bed for a private garden, it would 
be well to dig out the whole space, and underlay the bed with 
six inches or more of well-rotted manure, or trench the ground 
at least eighteen inches deep, mixing it thoroughly and plenti- 
fully with such manure in the process, adding sand or road- 
wash if the soil be heavy. 

Let the bed be so prepared in the fall, and in spring, having 
dug it over, raked it smoothly, and with your marker laid it 
out in one-foot squares, put in your plants exactly at the points 
where the lines intersect, covering the crowns about three 
inches deep. Keep it perfectly clear of weeds, and, if a drought 
comes on, give attention to watering it. 

One year from the time of planting you may expect a light 
cutting for the table ; but you had much better not cut any 
the first year after planting than risk the injmy to your suc- 
ceeding crops by cutting too much. 

Top-dress your bed with well-rotted manure every fall, dig 
the surface lightly over in the spring, and water it with the 
old brine from your pork-barrel, or strew salt over the bed. 

By this process you will have asparagus sufficiently gigan- 
tic ; and, if you desire it white, cover your bed six or eight 
inches deep with road- wash or beach sand, and cut the aspar- 
agus at that depth with a long knife whenever it shows itself 
an inch or less above this covering. 

In cultivating asparagus upon a large scale, let your land be 
most thoroughly manm*ed ; set the plants four inches deep, in 
rows three feet apart, and one foot between the plants in the 
row ; keep it clean with the plow and corn-harrow, or cultivator, 
manuring it every fall if possible ; and, if you choose to plow 
in the manure lightly across the rows, as if the ground were 
uncropped, it will bear the operation carefully performed with- 
out injury to the next year's product, and -with gi'eat advan- 
tage in keeping it clean with little labor. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 117 

BEANS (English). 

French, Feve de Marais. — German, Grosse Bohne. — Spanish, Haba. 

BROAD WINDSOR, LONG POD, &C. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Drop the seed at about three inches distance, in drills two 
inches deep and two feet apart. 

Hoe often, drawing the earth to them a little from time to 
time mitil they are in full bloom : then nip the end of each 
stem an inch or two, and wait for the crop. 

Time : the earliest possible in spring both South and North, 
or through the winter months in the former. 

These beans, if raised at all, should be planted in strong 
moist soil at the times and in the manner above directed. 

They are used as shelled beans, being gathered when the 
pods attain their full size, but while still green and tender. 

Though a favorite vegetable with some, they are rather a 
coarse delicacy, and are not likely to be generally esteemed. 
Commonly, too, they do not bear well with us, and if but a 
slight drought come upon them in their growth, the black 
aphis will eat them up. 

The horse bean is a small variety of this species, which in 
Europe is raised extensively as a farm crop. It is commonly 
mixed with oats in feeding horses, being considered very strong 
food, and from its heating quality requiring to be used in mod- 
erate quantities. 

BUSH BEANS. 
French, Haricots nains. — German, Stambohnen. — Spanish, Frijoles. 

BUSH BEANS. DWARF BEANS. KIDNEY BEANS. CRANBERRY 
BEANS. SNAPS. 

Early IMohawk. Early China. Union. Rob Roy. Valentine. 
Large White Kidney. Marrowfat. Refugee, etc., etc. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow thinly in rows from eighteen inches to two feet wide, 
and about an inch deep ; hoe often, drawing the earth a little 



118 AMEBIC AN HOME GAEDEN. 

to them, and sow plaster upon them at least once before they 
blossom. 

Time : corn-planting time for spring. July to October, ac- 
cording to latitude, for fall use or salting for winter. 

At New York, May to August. 

Bush beans are sometimes called kidney beans from the form 
of many of the varieties, and cranberry for the same reason ; 
snaps from their being used while the pods are sufficiently ten- 
der to snap without showing fibres, and dwarfs or bush beans 
from their habit of growth, not requiring poles, but being self- 
supporters. 

These beans may be planted from the very earliest corn- 
planting time to the last month of summer at the North, and 
at the South on into September. In favorable weather six 
weeks for the earlier kinds, and eight weeks for the later, will 
be found long enough to allow for the production of the green 
crop. They should be thinly sown in rows about eighteen 
inches or two feet apart, and covered about an inch. Hoe 
them AYell as soon as they come up, eai'th them up a little as 
they grow, sowing plaster lightly over them from time to time, 
and there is scarcely a fear of failure. 

For early kinds, the Mohawk, the China, and the Valentine 
may be sown. To succeed these, the Union, the Rob Roy, the 
maiTOwfat, the large white kidney, and the refugee. 

The China, the white kidney, the marrowfat, the Valentine, 
the Union, are all superior to the common white or dumpling 
bean for winter use in the dry state, and on this account are 
preferable to the darker colored beans, which, when dry, are 
unfit for cooking, dark-colored beans being both strong and un- 
sightly. The refugee is perhaps the best bean to plant late for 
pickles, or for salting gi'cen for winter use as a table vegetable. 

For this latter purpose the beans are prepared as for cooking, 
many persons splitting the pods in the process, especially if 
they are pretty large or old. They are then slightly scalded, 
and when cool are packed closely into a keg or barrel, each lay- 
er being carefully but moderately salted, and a few sprigs of 
summer savory or other aromatic herb added. When required 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 119 

for cooking, they are soaked a while to remove the excess of salt, 
and then boiled in the ordinary manner. With proper care 
they will keep good until spring. 

In raising beans in large quantities the land should be fur- 
rowed with a horse-marker or light plow, about two feet apart, 
and the beans sown by hand, and covered with the potato- 
hook ; or any good corn-planter may be used, which will com- 
plete the operation at once. 

The after-culture should be performed with the skeleton 
plow and light harrow, or the cultivator, to keep them clean, 
and either a single or a double mould-plow to slightly earth 
them up, after which but little finishing off by the hand-hoe 
will be required. 

For analysis of bush beans and their value, see page 500. 

POLE BEANS. 
French, Haricots a rames. — German, Stanghohnen. — Spanish, Judias. 
LARGE LIMA. SMALL LIMA OR CAROLINA. HORTICULTURAL. 
DUTCH CASE - KNIFE. ASPARAGUS. SCARLET RUNNERS, 
&C., &C. 

Time : throughout corn-planting time both North and South. 
At New York in all May. 

Pole beans require to be planted in hills from two to four 
feet apart, in which poles should be first set securely by the 
aid of a crow-bar. 

Plant four or five beans an inch and a half deep around each 
pole, and from four to six inches from it. When well up, hoe 
and thin them, leaving three or four of the strongest and most 
healthful plants ; keep the earth well hoed and loosened about 
them ; and when they begin to run, guide them to the pole if 
they do not find it readily, being carefid to wind them in the 
natural direction.* Continue to keep the earth loose and clean 

* Vegetables and woody plants that wind in their growth do not all 
wind in one direction, but each kind winds uniformly in its natural course, 
and no other. The honeysuckle and the hop wind "with the sun" — 
that is, the point of the vine in its progress passes from the south by the 
west, and north and east to the south again ; but the bitter sweet, the 
wistaria, the morning-glory, the cypress vine, and the bean, wind against 
the sun — that is, the point grows from the south to the east, and by the 
north and west again to the south. 



120 AMEEICAK HOME GARDEN. 

about them, hilling them up a little from time to time, and 
sowing plaster lightly upon them until the blossoming. You 
may then wait confidently for your crop. Those which are un- 
ripe at the approach of severe frost should be shelled and dried 
in the sun or oven for after use, and light-colored ones are to 
be preferred for the reasons given in the former article in refer- 
ence to bush beans. 

The Dutch case-knife, the cranberry, the asparagus, and some 
others, may be used as snaps while very young ; the Carolina, 
the white Dutch rmmer, the horticultm-al, and, above all, the 
large Lima for shelling. The scarlet runners are pretty flow- 
ering beans, but are not worth raising for the table. 

The large Lima and the Cai'olina, unless in very warm soil, 
should not be planted earlier than between the first and second 
corn-hoeing, and in the richest and warmest spot ; but the oth- 
er kinds may be planted as early as it is safe to plant corn, 
which of course will vary with latitude, soil, and elevation. 

BEET. 

French, Betierave. — German, Rothe Rube. — Spanish, Remolacha. 
EARLY BLOOD TURNIP. LONG BLOOD. WHITE SUGAR OR 
EARLY WHITE SCARCITY. MANGEL WURTZEL OR EARLY 
RED SCARCITY. YELLOW SUGAR, &C., &C. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in deep rich soil, in drills twelve or fifteen inches apart, 
and about an inch deep. Thin the plants to from eight to 
tAvelve inches apart, and hoe often till the tops cover the 
ground. 

Time for spring or summer use : at the South, through 
the Avinter months or at the earliest moment of spring; at the 
North, either in very late fall or very early spring. 

For winter use, from the middle of June to the middle of 
July at the North, and at the South from the last of July to 
the middle or last of August. 

Beets, in general, prefer a light, rich, and deep soil, although 
the tm-nip, sugar, and mangel wm'tzel beets, growing mostly 
above ground, may be well raised upon any soil that is rich. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



121 



FORMS OF BEETS. 
Fig. 75. 




a. Inferior Turnip Beet. 

b. Fair ' " 

c. Better " 
(7. Best 



e, "Wortlilesa long Beet. 
/. Inferior " 

g. Fair " 

h. Best " 



122 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

For eai'ly use, the seed of blood turnip beet may be sown in 
fall or winter, or at the very first opening of spring, on extra 
rich ground, in rows twelve inches apart, between which early 
salad or radishes may be sown if saving of space be an object, 
these coming off before the beets require the whole gi'ound, and 
the beets can be thinned by pulling the young plants for greens. 

For winter, both the blood turnip and the long blood are 
now extensively used, the former being valued not only for its 
intrinsic excellence when raised properly, but also for its keep- 
ing qualities. It may be preserved in good order until June. 

Long blood beets for winter use should not be sown at the 
North until from the middle to the end of June, and blood tur- 
nip from the first to the middle of July, and still later to the 
South, so timing them as to allow between three and four 
months for them to attain their full size. As soon as they 
are well up they should be thinned, the former to a foot apart 
each way, or fifteen inches by nine, and the latter to one foot 
by six inches. Keep them well hoed and the earth loose until 
they cover the ground with their leaves ; sow a little ash com- 
post over them once or twice dming their growth, if possible 
just before rain ; and whenever the frost even but lightly 
touches the tops, gather your crop immediately, or you will lose 
a considerable portion of its sweetness. The tops having been 
carefully and closely trimmed oflF, the roots, slightly dried, may 
be kept through the winter by being buried or lioled, as here- 
after directed ; or in an ordinary cellar, if laid up diy, not 
wilted, and covered with sand or earth. 

To this article a few general remarks may perhaps be profit- 
ably added. 

1st. If long beets are raised for a series of years in gi'ound 
that is not deeply plowed and well pulverized, and the seed 
saved from them is annually resown, they will become short- 
ened in growth, or form a habit of growing much above 
ground, and, in consequence of the latter peculiarity, deterio- 
rate in quality for the table. 

2d. The kinds named above are the only kinds really worth 
raising, and, if good stock is obtained, supply all that can be 
desired. The color of the first two should be dark blood, but 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 123 

not black, for extremely dark beets will rarely grow freely 
enough to possess the sweetness desirable. A dark-rooted 
beet with a rather light top is generally the best ; when cooked, 
it will be of a bright blood-color. 

The mangel Avurtzel, or red scarcity, is a red-skinned beet, 
but white inside, growing much out of the ground, and, although 
chiefly used for feeding cattle, makes a tolerable early beet. 
The white sugai*, or scarcity, rather shorter, but of somewhat 
similar habit, having sometimes a very slight tinge of pink 
upon the skin, also makes a good early beet. These varieties 
are unfit for winter use. Of the two, the white sugar is the 
more desirable, being of rather better quality, and having a fine 
appearance when served up mixed with the blood-colored vari- 
eties. 

As to yellow beets and the thousand mingled varieties that 
may be met with, their dull, dirty appearance when cooked is a 
sufficient objection to them, not one of them possessing any pe- 
culiar excellence to counterbalance this defect. No sweeter or 
more tender beets can be raised than of the kinds above men- 
tioned, but no beet can be raised of fine quality unless rapidly 
grown. For this end, rich soil, sufficient room, and frequent 
hoeing are indispensable. If from any cause it grow slowly, 
or receive a check, as not unfrequently happens in drought and 
from early frosts, the taste of potash, and not sugar, will be 
found when it is eaten. 

I have not named those beets which are raised expressly for 
the tops, because it appears absurd to cultivate them. One 
beet-top is almost as good as another, when grown luxuriantly, 
and if tops are wanted, they can be plucked from the rooted 
varieties. As a farm crop, or on a large scale for marketing, 
beets should be sown in rows at least two feet apart, and thinned 
to from six to fifteen inches in the rows, according to the kinds 
and the object proposed in raising them. If raised for feed, 
being planted early and kept well plowed and harrowed, two 
feet by fifteen inches will probably yield as much per acre 
as if left closer, and it is manifest that, other things being 
equal, the fewer in number the roots may be the less will be 
the labor of gathering them. For analysis of beets, and their 
value as a crop for feed, see p. 500. 



124 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Beets may be well kept through the winter by piling them 
carefully on a level or slightly raised surface, and covering them 
about a foot thick with earth, packed and sloped so as to shed 
rain, adding other covering in winter, if found necessary. This 
is called " holing." Or they may be kept in bins in the cellar ; 
but when in small quantity, they may be packed in ordinary 
barrels, and either headed or covered thinly with earth, in any 
place where the frost does not reach. 

BENE PLANT. 

This is the Sesamum Orientale of botanists, and has, so far 
as I know, no other designation than bene in the French, Ger- 
man, and Spanish languages. Sow in a drill an inch deep ; 
thin the plants to six or eight inches apart, and keep clean. 

Time : corn-planting time. May at New York. 

The bene plant is rather a medicinal herb than a garden 
vegetable, but its value as a palliative or remedy in summer 
complaint among children has given it a claim to a place in 
the home garden. 

It is prepared by infusing the leaves or seeds for a short 
time in water. It thus yields a tasteless mucilaginous drink, 
which is said to be very useful in the complaint referred to. 

BROCOLI. 

French, Brocoli. — German, Kohl Italianische. — Spanish, Broculi. 

EARLY PURPLE CAPE. EARLY WHITE CAPE. LATE WHITE, 

&C., &C. 

BRIEF DIKECTIONS, 

Set the plants twenty inches apart, in rows two feet wide, in 
rich soil, and hoe often. 

Time at the South : sow from August to January, and set 
out as soon as the plants are large enough. 

New York and the North generally : sow in September, and 
set out in April or early in May for summer use. For fall 
crop, sow in the first half of May ; set out in July. 

There are more than forty varieties of brocoli, but the best, 
and perhaps the only desirable kind for us, is the " early pur- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 12.") 

pie cape." The eai'ly white may be worth trying, and some- 
times the cauliflower is sold by this name ; but the labor be- 
stowed ujwn the late white is generally wasted. It is a large- 
growing but profitless variety. 

The earlj' purple cape is a somewhat surer crop than cauli- 
flower, and seed of good stock is more readily obtainjed, but it 
is so far inferior that, where cauliflower can be successfully 
raised, it is sheer folly to plant the brocoli. 

The full directions given for raising cauliflower are equally 
suitable for brocoli ; or, for the fall planting, the latter may be 
treated precisely as directed for winter cabbages. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

French, Chou de Bruxelks. — German, Sprossen Kohl. — Spanish, Col de tallo 

de Bruselas. 

If raised at all, sow and treat in all respects as directed for 
Savoy cabbage (which see), observing that in heeling in Brus- 
sels sprouts for winter the eaith must not cover that part of the 
stems from which the sprouts grow. 

Brussels sprouts is a species of cabbage about as hardy as 
the cm-led Savoy, which in growth it somewhat resembles. It 
does not form a main head, but gi'ows up with a considerable 
stem, bearing at the top a pretty large bunch of leaves, of which 
the outer ones are quite long, declining, and coai'se ; the inner 
or cro^-n leaves, which are much stronger flavored than the Sa- 
voy, become fit for use as greens only after the most thorough 
freezing. 

The only valuable product of this plant consists in the 
mass of " sprouts," or small button-like heads, with which, in 
plants of good stock, the stem is thickly set, and which, being 
covered by the overhanging leaves, become white, and form a 
tender and pleasant dish when cut from under their slight cov- 
ering in mid- winter, and cai'efully ]x)iled in a net. 

The objection on account of lack of quantity in the product, 
mentioned in the case of Savoy, holds still more strongly against 
the Brussels sprouts ; neither has it any peculiar excellence to 
balance this and its other defects. 



120 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

CABBAGE (Early, or Summer). 
French, Chou pomme. — German, Kopfskohl. — Spanish, Col. 

EARLY YORK. WAKEFIELD. KNIGHT'S EARLY. LARGE YORK. 
OX-HEART. EMPEROR, ETC., ETC. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set the plants twelve or fifteen inches apart, in rows eight- 
een inches to two feet wide, in rich soil, and hoe often and 
deeply. 

Time : at the North sow in September, or in hot bed last of 
February or first of March ; set out in the last half of April. 

In New York, in ordinary seasons, set out a little earlier, 
particularly fall-sown plants. At the South sow and set out 
from November to March. 

It would not be worth while to enumerate the varieties of 
cabbage : their names are very indefinite ; new varieties or sub- 
varieties being so readily obtained that there seems no limit to 
the possible number ; and, as new names sometimes sell old 
books, so old varieties of vegetables are sometimes found under 
new designations for the same end, or novelty is attained by a 
very slight variation. But, by whatever names they may be 
called, four or five kinds will fill up the season's course, and 
complete the necessary supply of this vegetable for a family. 

1, Early York, or any early cabbage, Wakefield, Knight's, 
etc., should be sown in September or October, and when about 
two inches high transplanted into a pit or cold bed about two 
inches apart for wintering ; or they may be sown in a hot bed 
in the latter half of February or former part of March, and, 
after being hardened by gradual exposure in the beginning of 
April, may be set out at any time after the middle of that 
month in rows eighteen inches to two feet wide, at a distance 
of twelve or fifteen inches in the rows. Plants that have been 
wintered may be set out rather earlier than hot-bed plants, and 
will usually come ofi" in time to sow turnips for winter use 
upon the ground they occupied. 

2. The large York, or ox-heart, or any second cabbage, may 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 127 

be sown and set out at the same time or a few days later than 
the former, giving them also a little more room — say sixteen 
inches apart by twenty-four. These will succeed the early 
kinds, and continue your supply until the flat Dutch, Bergen, 
etc., mature, whether at the North or South. 

South of latitude 40° north, cabbages of the earlier or later 
kinds, for spring and summer use, may be set out in the fall as 
soon as the plants attain sufficient size, and where this is done, 
if it seem necessary, they should be set on one side of a small 
ridge or furrow, running the rows in such a direction that the 
ridge of earth will afford some protection to the plants from 
prevailing winter winds ; strew over them a very thin covering 
of litter or evergreen brush, and give prompt attention to the 
culture of the crop at the first opening of spring. 

In certain localities this process may be found desirable, but 
in general it is best to set out plants at such time as that they 
will start immediately and grow right on to their maturity. 

CABBAGE (Late, or Winter). 
BERGEN. FLAT DUTCH. DRUM-HEAD. RED (OR PURPLE). SA- 
VOY, ETC., ETC. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set the plants twenty inches apart, in rows two feet or more 
wide, in strong rich soil. Hoe or dig among them till the 
leaves touch. 

Time : sow in May. Set out in July in New York and the 
North generally, and later as you proceed south. See also di- 
rections given above under early cabbages. The Bergen, flat 
Dutch, drum-head, or any late cabbage, if sown and set out 
late, and grown rapidly by the aid of rich soil and thorough 
culture, will prove equal in quality to the earlier kinds. 

If the red or purple cabbage is desired, it should be sown and 
set out a little earlier than the Bergen, etc., but at the same 
distances. It is valued, chiefly on account of its color and 
thick fleshy texture, for pickling and cole-slaw. Unless very 
good stock is obtained it is liable to yield only small and com- 
paratively worthless heads, or to fail to head at all. 



128 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

The Savoy is a curled cabbage, liable, as the former, to fail 
in heading if the stock be not good, and generally yielding a 
much less weight of crop than the other winter varieties, but, 
on account of its hardiness and marrowy excellence after being 
well frozen, it is worthy of more attention than it receives. It 
should be treated precisely as the red in respect to times of 
sowing, transplanting, and distances. Its form may be either 
globular or heart-shaped. 

North of latitude 40°, late cabbages may be sown in all 
May, and set out in July and the first half of August. In 
more southern latitudes they should be sown and set out at 
later periods, but so as to afford them from twelve to eighteen 
weeks from the time of setting out to perfect their heads, 
which, with good cultm'e, will be found suflficient, unless the 
stock be inferior. 

The ground for cabbages should l^e rich, and, if naturally a 
rather moist and strong loam, the addition of sufficient manure 
will render it perfectly suitable for them. They will grow, 
however, in any deep rich soil. 

Within three or fom' days" after the plants are set out they 
should be carefully hoed, and every morning, until they attain 
strength, the cut worm should be sought and destroyed. Its 
hiding places may be known by the fresh-cut leaves or plants 
sticking out from its retreat ; stir the earth a little just below 
the surface, near the plant, and you will find the marauder. 
Crush him. See also page 108. 

Throughout the period of their growth keep the ground 
clean and loose, either with the spade and hoe or the plow and 
corn-harrow, and if, after each hoeing, a little poudrette or ash- 
compost is applied, it will materially aid the growth and im- 
prove the quality of the crop. 

As a farm crop or for feed, the larger late varieties of cab- 
bage may be planted at a distance of thirty inches each way, 
the ground being previously well prepared with the plow and 
harrow, and lightly cross-furrowed with the skeleton plow, the 
plant being set at the crossing. See Analysis and Value, p. 500. 

Cabbages are liable to a disease called anbury or club-root, 
in Avhich large swellings form upon the roots. These are sup- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 129 

posed to proceed from the wound of certain weevils depositing 
their eggs, as the gall is formed upon the oak, but I suppose 
the insect seehs only unhealthy or checked plants, diseased, 
morbid juices being probably agreeable to it. I have found it 
in the portion of a patch reached by the roots of neighboring 
trees ; and in a seed-row sown down a slope, the plants on the 
lower or wet part were almost all clubbed, and the others free. 
For insects infesting the cabbage, see pages 99 and 104. 

It is often found difficult in northern latitudes to preserve 
cabbages through the winter without loss by rotting, or, if this 
be avoided by hanging them up singly, they are apt to become 
tough and almost tasteless from drying or self-exhaustion. 

The best known mode of wintering them is to pull them up 
by the roots immediately on the appearance of hard frosts, and, 
having made a deep clean furrow upon a gentle slope, begin at 
the upper end of it, and place the cabbages, with the heads 
downward, not quite perpendicularly, but sloping, so as effect- 
ually to discharge or shed water from the heads. Having 
thus arranged yom' heads, with the roots uppermost, through- 
out the length of your fuiTow, proceed either with the plow or 
spade to cover them with earth, forming a ridge over them a 
few inches thick ; still farther to secure them against water, 
make the crown of the ridge as solid as possible by beating or 
treading along it, and finish it up sharply. Whatever may be 
needed for winter use can be broken out, beginning at the low- 
er end, while those which remain will come out in the spring, 
even as late as May, as fresh and almost as sound as when 
put in. 

The red cabbage and the Savoy, being hardier, do not require 
this covering, but may be " heeled in" at the approach of win- 
ter by setting the roots in an opened furrow or trench, and 
placing the heads close together, but above the ground, and 
carefully settling the ^earth around the necks ; cover them 
lightly Avith straw or evergreen brush, and cut them out as re- 
quired for use. 

Merely for winter cooking, the other varieties may be kept 
in the same manner ; but if you desire them for spring use the 
former mode is preferable. The " sauer-kraut," of which Ger- 

F2 



130 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

mans are so fond, is made by halving fine solid cabbage-lieuds 
lengthwise, cutting out the stem, and shredding them as for 
" cole-slaw," but perhaps still finer. This is usually done by 
means of a gang of from three to six knives arranged obliquely 
across a wooden frame, the best and freest cutters being grooved 
lengthwise like scythe-blades. Within this frame a small 
open box for the half cabbage-head runs, the operator pressing 
the cabbage upon the knives as he drives the box. The shred- 
ded cabbage is then packed as closely as possible, by the aid of 
a wooden " pounder," into a keg or barrel, with a moderate salt- 
ing, and spicing with caraway or other aromatic seeds, &c. 
When finished, a cloth is laid over it, and the head or other 
cover laid upon it, wdth a weight, imtil it has fermented and 
all impurities are cleared ofi". It is then ready for use, and 
may be headed up for winter, keeping it carefully covered with 
its brine, as in preserving pickles or butter, &c. 

CARDOON. 

, French, Carfi^on.— German, Kardoner. — Spanish, Cardon. 

If raised at all, sow in a single row where they may stand to 
mature, having plenty of room, at least two feet on each side, 
and when well up, thin the plants to fifteen inches apart. 

Time : March or April. 

The cardoon resembles the artichoke (see p. 114), but the 
heads are not used, the scales being fleshless and bitter. When 
the plants are full grown, before the flower-stem starts, the 
leaves, being gathered upright and bound together, are earthed 
up, like celery, to blanch, and when this is efiected, the leaf- 
stems are used by those who fancy them in stews, &c. 

CARROT. 

French, Carrotte. — German, il/67t?-e.—rSpanish, Zanahoria. 

EARLY HORN. LONG ORANGE. ALTRINGHAM. LONG PUR- 
PLE, OR BLOOD. LONG WHITE, &C. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in shallow drills fifteen inches apart ; cover lightly, and 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



131 



if dry give water. Thin the plants to three or four inches 
distance, and keep clear of weeds. 

Time : for winter use in families, the first half of June is 
the best time to sow carrots in New York and the North gen- 
erally, and still later in the South. 




a. Inferior early Carrot. 

6. Good early Carrot. 

e. Inferior long Carrot. 

d. Better long Carrot. 



e. Best long Carrot. 

/. White long field Carrot, of poor quality, 
but easily gathered. 



The two first named above are the only kinds desirable for 
garden culture. The early horn is a short root, calculated for 



132 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

the very earliest summer use. It should be sown at the first 
opening of the spring, in rows half an inch deep, about one 
foot apart, and, if the weather prove diy, water lightly until the 
plants come up. Hoe and keep clean, thinning to two or three 
inches, and drawing out for use as fast as they swell. 

The long orange, when of a very dark orange color (see Col- 
or, p. 71), is the best of all carrots, and though not perhaps 
always yielding so heavy crops as some of the coarser varieties, 
it may fairly be doubted if its superior quality does not render 
it, upon the whole, more desirable than those varieties, even for 
farm cultm-e. 

It may be so-wn about the last of May or in the first half of 
June, in the same manner as the former, the young plants be- 
ing thinned to fom* inches apart. 

Among market-gardeners around New York and south of it, 
carrots are also sown later and wintered out, being lightly cov- 
ered with straw, or salt hay, or evergreens. In this state they 
remain miinjured through the winter, and, starting to grow 
early, afford carrots that can be bunched in May, and really fm*- 
nish fresher-flavored roots than those which have been stored. 

A light, warm, and not very rich soil is suitable for carrots, 
but good crops may be raised upon any soil deepened by good 
cultm-e and moderately manured. 

In the vicinity of large cities land is sometimes made too 
rich for this crop, and it fails entirely. 

If raised as a fiirm crop, carrots should be sown in rows two 
feet wide, being tliinned to four inches apart in the row, and 
kept free from weeds. Plow often and deeply until they are 
about half grown, then run the skeleton ploAV once beam-deep 
betAveen the rows ; follow it with the light corn-harrow, and 
the culture of your crop is completed. 

Carrot-seed imported from Em'ope is generally very trouble- 
some to sow, unless thoroughly rubbed with earth, or ashes, or 
plaster. It is very woolly, and can scarcely be separated. 
American seed, if properly managed, is clean and free as other 
ordinary seeds. See Analysis and Value of Carrots, p. 500. 

In addition to the common uses of carrots, they make excel- 
lent " pumpkin pies." For this purpose they should be passed 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 133 

through a fine grater, either in their raw state or stewed, and 
then be used precisely as veritable pumpkin. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

French, Chou-fleur. — German, JBlumenkohl. — Spanish, CoUflor. 

EARLY, LATE, ETC. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set the plants twenty inches apart, in rows two feet wide, 
in very rich soil, and hoe often. 

Time : for spring and summer heading, sow in September ; 
pot and protect the plants carefully through winter, and set 
out in April or May at the North ; but at the South sow a 
month or more later, and either pot and protect them thus, or 
set out the plants, when four or six inches high, where they 
are to stand through winter, and protect them if necessary. 

For the fall crop at New York and the North generally, sow 
in the first half of May, and set out last of June or fii'st week 
of July. Proceeding southward, sow and transplant still later, 
allowing the crop full sixteen weeks from the setting out, with 
good culture, to mature for use before winter. 

The cauliflower, like the brocoli, is of the cabbage tribe, 
having long, narrowish leaves, which grow upon the stem 
rather in the fashion of a tuft, somewhat as the palm-tree 
bears its leaves ; and, instead of having a head like the cab- 
bage, formed of the young leaves compacted by the closing of 
those above and the growth of those within, it is composed of 
the incipient blossom-head, which, appearing at first as a mere 
button in the centre of the crown of leaves, gradually enlarges 
to a diameter of from six to twelve inches or more. When in 
perfection it has the appearance of a compact curd-white 
mass of an irregular convex form, and is the most choice and 
delicate of garden vegetables. 

The early cauliflower is on many accounts preferable to the 
other varieties, and perhaps is the only one that will prove to 
be really worth raising. Between the early and late varieties 
of cabbages, peas, etc., their time of maturing afibrds a pretty 



13-1 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

clear distinction ; but it is scarcely so with cauliflower, which 
is rather finer and coarser, good and inferior, and by the in- 
itiated the terms early and late are used in reference to the 
period of the expected crop, as summer or fall, rather than to 
designate different varieties. Disappointments would be still 
more frequent to the cultivator if the seed for both were not 
often fm-nished from the same stock by the seedsman. 

If desired for summer use at the North, the seed should be 
so^yn about the middle of September, and the plants, when 
about three inches high, transplanted into quart garden-pots, 
three plants in a pot, and placed in a pit for wintering. They 
should be kept well covered in the severest weather, but when 
a moderate temperature prevails light and air should be given. 

In the latter half of April the plants may be set out in very 
rich, strong soil, at the distance of twenty inches by two feet, 
or two feet each Avay. Let them be often and deeply hoed, 
and dig or plow deeply between them at least once before they 
attain their growth ; use ash compost or liquid manm*e about 
them from time to time, and if the season is favorable you may 
cut fine heads for summer use ; if, however, the season prove 
hot and dry, the heads will probably be small and of only me- 
dium quality, or you may be entirely disappointed of a crop. 

In milder latitudes they will bear the winter with little or 
no covering, and may be set out in late fall. 

The fall crop is far more certain, and more easily raised. 

For this, sow the seed in the spring, at the times above di- 
rected ; transplant when two inches high into a second bed, 
two or three inches apart. In about six or seven weeks from 
the sowing, set them out at the distance named for the summer 
crop, treat them as directed for the same, and, unless the seed 
sown was of inferior stock, you may ordinarily calculate on a 
full and valuable crop. 

If, on the approach of winter, any part of them have not per- 
fected their heads, let them be taken up carefully, with plenty 
of earth to them, and heeled in closely, either under the bench 
of a green-house or in a warm dirt cellar, and they will con- 
tinue to head almost as well as in the open ground. 

The proper time for cutting cauliflower is when the head has 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 135 

attained its largest diameter, but before it gives any indica- 
tions of becoming loose or open. 

For the benefit of the cook and the consumer, I remark that 
it should never be boiled with other vegetables or with meat, 
but in fair water, or milk and water, with a little salt, being 
careful not to overcook it' — say boiling it twenty minutes or 
less. A bag-net, which is useful in boiling all green vegeta- 
bles, will be found especially so in cooking cauliflower. It 
may be eaten with drawn butter or gravy, as fancy dictates. 

The imperfect heads of both cauliflower and brocoli, or the 
full heads divided for the purpose, make handsome and pleas- 
ant pickles. See page 167. 

It is often difficult to obtain cauliflower seed of good stock, 
and upon this almost every thing depends ; but where good 
stock can be obtained, and the soil is favorable, there are few 
garden crops more profitable. 

CELERY. 
French, Celeri. — German, Sellerie. — Spanish, Apio. 

WHITE SOLID. RED GIANT. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow upon the surface of very light, rich soil, and rake light- 
ly in. Keep watered and shaded from the strong sunshine. 
When the plants are three or foui- inches high, prepare trenches 
two to four feet apart, a foot wide, and a foot deep ; dig into 
the bottom plenty of rotten manure, and set the plants six to 
eight inches apart, a single row in each trench. Continue to 
shade them until started, and gradually earth them up as 
they grow. 

Time : soav from March to May, Set out from May to July 
in New York and the North generally. 

At the South, sow in June and July. Set out in August 
and September. 

There are various kinds of fancy celery, and diversities of 
opinion as to their merits, but the continued general cultiva- 
tion of the white solid would seem to prove that, on tlie whole. 



136 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

it is the best. The term solid as applied to celery refers to 
the leaf-stem or eatable part, which, in inferior varieties, is 
more or less hollow, or " piped." Celery should be sown upon 
the surface of fine, light soil. The seed, being raked in very 
lightly, should be shaded for a few days, and watered moder- 
ately each evening until it comes up, if the weather be dry. 
When about two inches high, the plants should be transplanted 
into a second bed at one or two inches apart. In May and 
later, prepare for their final planting by digging trenches about 
a foot wide and ten or twelve inches deep at a distance of three 
or fom* feet apart. Strew along the bottom a thick layer of 
thoroughly rotted manure, and dig it in, mixing it well with 
the soil in the process. After it has lain a week or two, dig 
it again, and mix and pulverize it. If your plants are ready, 
or you desire something a little earlier than your main crop, 
you may begin to plant ; if not, then dig again when yom' 
plants are ready, and, having grouted the roots (see p. 88), 
set them out at six or eight inches apart, in a single row along 
the trench, and shade them until they take root. Keep them 
perfectly clean, and the earth loose around them, applying 
liquid manm-e after each hoeing until they are large enough 
to earth up for blanching.* 

This process should be performed about every ten days after 
the plants in the trenches have attained a height of ten or 
twelve inches. 

To do this properly, choose a fine day for the operation, gath- 
er the leaves carefully up, place a board on each side of the 
row, and di'aw the earth against them ; then raise the boards 
gi-adually, and carefully settle the earth to the plants. 

At the approach of winter take up your celery, which should 
now be from eighteen inches to three feet high, remove any 
waste leaves, and especially such as may be decaying or touch- 
ed by frost, and pack it away in earth or sand in a cool cellar 

* Blanching is effected by the exclusion of light, which seems, in gen- 
eral, essential to the development of color. The law, however, is not ab- 
solute, for seed-leaves are often found in the common field-pumpkin and 
in ripe cucumbers which have grown nearly to their natural size and of a 
fine deep green color. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 137 

or out-house where frost will not reach it, or set it upright in 
a narn'ow bed out of doors, packing it closely, yet so as to ad- 
mit the eai'th through it, and, having ridged it over somewhat 
carefully, to prevent water settling into it, cover the whole 
with straw or mulch of any kind sufficient to prevent the frost 
from closing it against you dm'ing winter. Like all green veg- 
etables for winter use, celery will keep better in the open air 
than housed, if proper precautions are used for its protection 
against frost. 

It is not uncommon to plant celery in veiy moist ground for 
the sake of a luxuriant growth, but in this there is danger of 
partial decay in wet seasons, and always loss of quality. Cel- 
ery of the finest flavor, though not of the largest size, is raised 
in light, dry soil. 

Celeriac is a turnip-rooted variety of celery used in soups, 
and but of little value. It is raised as turnip-beets. See 
page 120. 

CHERVIL. 

French, Cerfeuil. — German, G artenkerhel. — Spanish, Perifolio. 

Sown and treated as parsley, which see, page 160. It is an 
aromatic herb, sometimes used in soups and salads. 

CITRON. 

French, Ciironne. — German, CUron Wasser Melone. — Spanish, Melon de 
aqua de Cidi'a. 

See Watermelon, page 152. 

GIVES OR CHIVES. 

French, Civette or Cihoulette. — German, Binsenlauch. Schnidtlauch. — Span- 
ish, Cehollinos. 

Gives should be set out in August or September at the North, 
or November or December at the South, at about six inches 
apai-t, and tAvo or three inches deep, either in a single row, or 
small bed, if beds are preferred, where they can remain perma- 
nently ; or they may be set as edging to paths. 

They are a very small species of onion, increasing from the 
root, with leaves not thicker than straws, starting up very ear- 
ly in the spring, when the young tops are cut and eaten. 



138 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

CORN. 
French, Mais. — German, Korn. — Spanish, Maiz. 

1. CANADA. 2. SUGAR, 3. TUSCARORA. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in rich, warm soil, in hills three feet apart, five grains 
in a hill, an inch deep. When well up, thin to the three or 
four best plants. Hoe often, and dress with ashes and plaster. 

Time : from March to July, according to latitude, and the 
earlier or later period at which the crop is desired for use. 

All the varieties of corn may be raised in the garden for 
roasting ears or green corn. I have placed the kinds named 
above in the usual order of their ripening, though this varies 
with stock, but remark that the Canada, as is common with 
extra early vegetables, is small. The sugar, with high manur- 
ing, may be raised of fair size, and is of superior sweetness. 
It may also be kept for Avinter cooking, either by being hung 
up in bunches by the tips of the husks, or husked and shelled 
while soft, and gradually dried in an oven at a moderate heat. 

The Tuscarora has no flint, being what is called a flour corn. 
It yields a fine large ear with a red cob, which slightly discol- 
ors it in boiling. Perhaps the first two may be esteemed the 
very best for family use, or we may add the common eight- 
rowed white. 

Corn should be planted in very rich soil at various times 
along through the season, in hills three feet apai't each way, 
carefully thinning it at the first hoeing to the three or four 
strongest plants. Use ash compost from time to time upon 
them, and gradually but moderately hill up. 

In its farm culture corn should te planted at about the dis- 
tances named, and in the course of its early growth should be 
plowed at least three times each way, giving it two careful 
hoeings, each followed with a top-dressing of plaster or ash 
compost, and a final " hilling" after the third plowing. 

For analysis and value, see page 500. 



AMERICAN HOME (JARDEX. 11^9 

CORN SALAD OR FETTICUS. 
French, Mache. — German, Ackersalat. — Spanish, Mdche. 
Sown and treated precisely as spinach, except that thinning 
the plants is not essential {see Spinach, page 179). 

It is a soft, mild salad plant, of no great account, but used 
with or instead of other salads in the early spring, when al- 
most any thing green finds a welcome. " Lamb's lettuce" is 
its most appropriate synonym. 

CUCUMBER. 

French, Concombre. — German, Gwke. — Spanish, Pepino. Cohamhro. 
1. EARLY CLUSTER. 2. SHORT GREEN. 3. LONG GREEN 

{white Spilled). 4. early frame. 5. extra long. 

6. WHITE TURKEY. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in very rich, warm soil, in hills four to six feet apart, 
six or eight seeds in a hill, an inch deep. When well up, thin 
to the three test plants. Hoe often till the vines touch. 

Time : from February to August, according to latitude and 
the object for which the crop is raised. The main crop every 
where may be planted at the time of principal corn-planting, or 
a little later. The pickle crop in June and July at the North ; 
at the South, in August or September. 

The varieties of cucumber, like those of cabbage, are so nu- 
merous, and often so similar, that none but a professional gar- 
dener or a cm"ious amateur would be able to distinguish them 
from one another, or even think it worth while to keep the rec- 
ord of their names. 

The first three given above may be considered as including 
the useful varieties, and the three last as chiefly fanciful. 

The early cluster is a small, short, dumpy variety, with 
which most persons are familiar, from its abundance in our 
markets in the fall. It is of pleasant flavor, but seedy, and is 
valuable chiefly on account of its earliness, and, to those who 
raise pickles for sale, from its great capacity for bearing. 

The short gi-een is a common table cucumber, also sometimes 



140 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

raised for pickles, rather longer than the cluster, and of about 
the same quality, but not so profuse a bearer. 

The white- spined long green supplies a desideratum among 
cultivators, being of very handsome form and deep green col- 
or, free from bitterness, and an abundant bearer. It is some- 
times called simply the "white-spined cucumber, but its varie- 
ties are increasing, and are easily distinguishable. Its quality 
can not be fairly judged of by those purchased in om- markets, 
as it may be cut too late or kept for a week without materially 
changing its color. 

The early frame is of no particular variety, but the name 
covers a number of slightly differing sub- varieties, which are 
used for planting in frames in winter for the production of cu- 
cumbers at unseasonable times. 

The extra long is, on vai-ious accounts, not worth cultivation. 
Very long cucumbers are more solid in textm'e than is desira- 
ble, and the stem end is generally bitter for two or three inches. 
If the peeling be performed from that end, the bitterness is 
more or less communicated to the whole, and hence probably 
the old rule, always to peel a cucumber from the blossom end. 
They are also, in general, poor bearers ; but their fine appear- 
ance, either for pickles or the table, has given them considera- 
ble favor in certain quarters. 

The " white Turkey" is a curious but valueless variety. 

Small cucumbers of any kind, when pickled, are properly 
-called " gherkins," but this name has been also given to a very 
small, seedy, worthless, bmT-like West Indian cucumber, of 
which poor pickles are sometimes made. 

Cucumbers should be planted in the richest soil, in hills from 
four to six feet apart, six or eight seeds in a hill, at about an 
inch in depth, and at the first or second hoeing only the three 
strongest and healthiest plants should be left. Frequent and 
deep hoeings, continued until prevented by the interlocking 
vines, and gradual hilling up of the plants to the seed-leaves, 
with the application of ash compost to the hills from time to 
time after hoeing, will sufiice in ordinary seasons to secm'e a 
satisfactory crop. If planted in large patches, the gromid, hav- 
ing been prepared by thorough manuring and repeated plow- 



AMEBIC AN HOME GARDEN. Itll 

ings, should be furrowed both ways at four feet distance, the 
seeds being dropped at the crossing and carefully covered. 
They should be well plowed both ways at least twice dui'ing 
their growth, and treated in other respects as above directed 
for their gai'den culture. 

DOCK, COMMON YELLOW. 

French, Rumex. — German, Amp/erh-aut. — Spanish, Bardmia. 

A row or two of the common lance-leaved or yellow dock, 
sown on very rich soil, at the same time as parsley or par- 
snep, will yield early greens in abundance for those who esteem 
them. 

When rapidly gro-^m, they are as tender and pleasant as any 
others, and probably still more decidedly healthful for spring 
use. When the season for their use as greens is past, the root 
may be dried for the purposes of domestic medicine, or for sale 
to the manufacturers of " extract of sarsaparilla," into which it 
is said to enter largely. 

The English Patience dock, a native of Italy, known among 
the French as Rhubarbe des Moines, is in no respect materially 
better than the above. 

EGG-PLANT. 

French, Melongene. — German, Tollapfel. — Spanish, Berenjena. 

1. LARGE PURPLE. 2. WHITE. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set out in a very rich, warm soil, in hills three feet by two 
apart, two or three plants in a hill. Hoe often,. and hill up 
gradually until they blossom. 

Time : sow in hot. bed six or eight weeks before corn-plant- 
ing time. In about four weeks thin them carefully, or trans- 
plant the whole into a second bed or into pots (see p. 87). 
Set them out just before the time for first corn- hoeing. 

K practicable, let the whole of your plants be transplanted 
into a second bed at two inches apart, or into small pots, three 
plants in a pot. At the proper time turn them cai'efully out 



142 AMERICAN HOMK GARDEN. 

of the pots, without breaking the ball of earth, or, if not potted, 
transplant into hills three feet by two, in very rich, warm soil, 
lloe them often, and apply liquid manure from time to time. 

When the fruit seems to have attained about three fourths 
of its size, and before it begins to lose its deep purple color, it 
is ready for use. 

The purple egg-plant is a rich and valuable esculent, often 
growing to the size of an ordinaiy muskmelon, and when thinly 
sliced and well cooked by frying in good butter, or lard, in 
which it cooks more readily, deserves even a better name than 
that of " beefsteak plant," It is also called by some " Guinea 
squash." The white is merely ornamental, or, rather, simply 
curious. 

ENDIVE. 

French, Chlcoree. — German, Endivie. — Spanish, Cfdcoria. 

GREEN CURLED, &C. 

BRIEF niRECTIONS. 

Time : sow from February to April for summer use, and from 
June to August for fall and winter, and set out and cultivate 
as lettuce. See p. 148. 

At the South it may be sown and set out still later. 

The endive is a handsomely curled plant, resembling the Si- 
lesian lettuce in its habit, but of a strong and bitter flavor. It 
is chiefly used as a fall and winter salad, but also for garnish- 
ing, and sometimes in stews. 

It is rendered milder by blanching, which is effected by gath- 
ering the whole of the leaves upright, and tying them closely 
together near the point, two or three Aveeks before it is cut for 
use, or by placing over the heads earthen pans or saucers, which 
are made by the potters for this purpose, like dish-covers, with 
a small knob upon them. The broad-leaved or Batavian en- 
dive is a plainer-leaved and coarser variety than the curled. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 143 

GARLIC. 
French, All. — German, Knoblauch. — Spanish, Ajo. 

Garlic sets should be planted in the fall or spring, at tho 
same time and in the same manner as onion sets, at a depth of 
two or three inches. Keep them clean until the changing 
color of the tops shows the roots are ripening, then take them 
up and dry them for use. The sets are obtained by dividing 
the clustered roots which are sold in our stores and markets. 

Garlic is a bulb of the onion tribe, very strong, and to many 
persons very offensive, but often used medicinally and in French 
cookery. 

Rocambole, or Spanish garlic, is a milder variety, cultivated 
in the same manner and for the same uses. 

GREENS. 

Greens are either young plants raised in the fall, and win- 
tered expressly for early cutting, as spinach, German kale, &c., 
or they are similar young plants raised in the spring for the 
same purpose, as spinach, cabbage, mustard, &c., or they are the 
first young spring gi'owth of roots or stems wintered for tho 
purpose of producing them, as kale, cabbage, dock, &c. Though 
very unsubstantial, they are eagerly sought in the early spring. 
What they lack as food they perhaps make up as physic, many 
of them being, in medical parlance, " laxative and detergent." 
A little saleratus added to the water in boiling them renders 
them in general safer and better for use. It should not be 
omitted, especially in cooking poke- weed and others of doubt- 
ful reputation. 

Most of them will be found in their alphabetical order, but, 
for convenient reference, a list is given below from which selec- 
tions may be made. 

1. Beets. The part used is the young plant entire, pulled 
and washed ; or the leaves may be pulled from older plants. 

2. Brussels Sprouts. The young fall and spring growth. 

3. Cabbages. Young or non-heading plants of the early 
kinds called " coleworts" or " collards." 

4. Dock. The young spring growth. 



14i AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

5. Horseradish. The yoiing leaves, 

6. Kale, or Borecole. The fall and spring growth. 

7. Kale, German. The young fall-sown plants cut in 
spring. 

8. Mustard. The young plants raised and cut in spring. 

9. Poke-weed. The young shoots in spring, before any 
redness appears on them ; though some use them until the 
leaves become large. 

10. Purslane. The young plants cut in spring and sum- 
mer. 

11. Radishes. The young plants, or tops, cut in spring. 

12. Rape, or Colewort. The young plants cut in spring. 

13. Sals APT. The young growth in spring, cut Avhen fom- 
or five inches high, 

14. Spinach. The young plants of fall or spring growth, cut. 

15. Turnip-tops. The young spring growth from last 
year's roots. 

HERBS. 
The following list of herbs comprises some that are not very 
valuable, but is given in order that selections may be readily 
made. Some are omitted because universally known, or found 
wild, or worthless. Those marked with a * are inserted, wdth 
directions for their cultm-e, in their alphabetical order in this 
work. 

1. Burnet. French, Petite Pimpernelle / German, Pim- 
pernelle ; Spanish, Pimpernelan. 

An aromatic herb, of pretty foliage, occasionally used in sal- 
ads. Formerly it was infused in drinks which some good- 
wives mingled for their husbands. It may be sown and treat- 
ed as parsley. Page 160. 

2. Caraway. French, Carvi; German, Kwnmel ; Span- 
ish, Alcaravea. 

3. Coriander. French, Coriandre ; Germsin, Koriander ; 
Spanish, Celantro. 

These are herbs bearing aromatic seeds, wliich are used in 
sweet-cake, etc. The plant of coriander has an offensive smell. 
They may be sown and treated as summer savory. Page 181. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 145 

4. Dill. French, L^Aneth ; Gennan, Bill; Spanish, 
Eneldo. 

5. Fennel. French, L'Aneth doux; German, Dill Kraut; 
Spanish, Hinojo. 

Dill and fennel are aromatic herbs which are sometimes 
used in fish sauces, etc., and their seeds substituted for anise- 
seed in domestic medicine. 

6. Lavender. 'Frexich, Lavande ; Gerawci^ Spiklavandel ; 
Spanish, Espliego. 

A small woody plant, bearing short spike flowers of fine fra- 
grance, raised from seeds or cuttings. See page 469. 

7. Lemon Balm. French, Melisse ; German, Melisse ; 
Spanish, Melissa. 

Used for making tea, which is given in colds, etc., as a su- 
dorific. It is raised as summer savory. Page 181. 

8. Marigold (Pot, or Soup). French, Souci de Jardin. 
Marigold ; Gennan, Ringelhlume ; Spanish, Clumeno. 

The flower-leaves of pot marigold, like those of safli'on, are 
gathered and dried for use in soups, and in domestic medicine, 
particularly for tea in measles. Both may be raised as sage 
or summer savory. Page 181. 

9.* Parsley. Page 160. 

10.* RoQUETTE. See Pepper-grass. Page 166. 

11. Rosemary. French, Romany?./ German, i?osmanw / 
Spanish, Romaro. 

A fragrant Avoody plant raised from seed, as sage, or from 
slip or common cuttings. Page 438. It is used as a domes- 
tic perfume, and also distilled for its essential oil. 

12. Saffron. French, Sa/ran ; German, Safran ; Span- 
ish, Azafran. 

For its uses and culture, see Marigold, above. 

13.* Sage. Page 176. 

14.* Sorel. Page 178. 

15.* Summer Savory. Page 181. 

16.* Sweet Basil. Page 182. 

17.* Sweet Marjoram. Page 182. 

18.* Thyme. Page 183, 

G 



146 AMEKICAN HOME GAKDEN. 

HOP. 

French, Houhlon. — German, Hop/en. — Spanish, Hombrecillo. 

The hop is a wild perennial plant, whose usefulness has in- 
troduced it into every garden. It forms a pleasant summer 
shade when a few strings or rods are laid for it to run upon ; 
or it may be planted by a tall single pole, up which it will 
run rapidly, always throwing to the surface its clustered stro- 
bil-formed inflorescence, which is known to us as hops. 

They should be carefully gathered and dried before frost 
touches them. 

In household economy they are used for making yeast, 
"turnpike," etc., etc. Scalded and applied in flannel as a 
poultice or fomentation, they constitute an excellent anodyne, 
and in the form of hop-tea are one of the best of tonics. 

In making new plantings, choose the young ivliite runners 
in preference to the brown old growth, and small rather than 
large roots, and only from fertile plants. See page 74. 

The green leaves of the peach-tree are sometimes substi- 
tuted for the hop in making yeast, though, from their poison- 
ous character, it would seem scarcely safe to use them for such 
a pm'pose. The scaly ament, or " hop" of the Ptelea Trifolia- 
ta, a wild tree, or, rather, large shrab, sometimes called the 
" hop-tree," is also used for this purpose in the ordinaiy man- 
ner of hops, and by some is thought to be of superior strength. 

HORSERADISH. 

French, Le Grand Raifort. — German, Merrettig. — Spanish, Rahano. 

Horseradish is commonly raised either from the crowns of 
plants or from pieces of the root an inch or two long. These 
should be planted in rich and rather moist soil as early as pos- 
sible in the spring, from twelve to fifteen inches deep, in rows 
two feet wide, and from six to ten inches apart in the row. 
Keep them clean and well hoed, or plow and hoe until they 
are well started, and they will soon obtain such possession of 
the spot that it Avill be diflScult to eradicate them. When- 
ever the root is large enough it is fit for use. It may also be 
raised from seed, but the mode above directed is preferable. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 147 



KALE OR BORECOLE. 

French, Chou Vert. — German, Grune Kohl. — Spanish, Breton sin Cabeza. 
GREEN CURLED. PURPLE CURLED. 

Kale, or borecole, if raised at all, should be sown and treat- 
ed precisely as winter cabbage. 

It is a species of cabbage that does not head, but grows up 
with a considerable mass of leaves, which are very much curl- 
ed. It is very hardy, enduring the rigors of the severest win- 
ter with a slight covering, and in the spring its young sprouts 
ai-e used for gi-eens. See Greens, page 14.3. 

It is much used by some northern nations as an ingredient 
in a kind of soup, particularly the green variety. 

It is a rank, coarse vegetable, that is utterly unfit to use un- 
til thorough freezing has destroyed a portion of its acrid 
strength, and is only fit for regions where no other cabbage 
can be successfully raised or wintered. 

There is a dwarf and less curled variety, largely used as 
greens among the German residents of our cities, and known 
as German Kale. It is sown thickly, in September, in drills a 
foot apart, and, being kept clean through the fall, with a very 
slight covering of litter or evergreen brush, and sometimes 
without any covering, stands through the winter, and in the 
spring, after it has grown a few inches, the whole plant is cut 
up for use. 

KOHL RABI, OR TURNIP CABBAGE. 

French, Chou Navet.- — German, Kohl Rahi. Tiber Erde Kohl Rahi. — Span- 
ish, Col de Rabi. 

This, like the former, if raised at all, should be sown and 
treated in its cultivation as winter cabbage, which see, page 
128. 

It is properly a turnip mounted upon a stem, or, rather, 
formed by the enlargement of the stem near its croAvn, the 
leaves which form the crown of the plant being thrown out im- 
mediately above and partially upon the swelling which forms 
the edible product. 



148 AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN. 

It is somewhat curious, from the combination in appearance 
and flavor of the cabbage and turnip, but is really not worth 
raising, though becoming common in our markets from the 
demand for it among our German people, to whom it seems as 
a memorial of " fatherland." 

LEEK. 
French, Porre.au. — German, Porro. — Spanish, Puerro. 

SCOTCH, LONDON, &c. (name not material). 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow thinly in shallow drills fifteen inches apart, in rich soil ; 
cover lightly, and if dry, give water. When from four to eight 
inches high, thin them carefully to six inches apart in the row. 
Keep them clean with frequent hoeings, and gradually earth 
up to blanch and sweeten them. 

Time : sow at the earliest opening of spring, and thin or 
transplant as above directed. At the South a second sowing 
may be made in early fall, treating the plants in the same 
manner. 

The plants obtained by thinning may be set out in well- 
prepared drills or furrows three or four inches deep, and if 
carefully hoed and earthed up as above directed, will grow 
large and fine for their appropriate uses in soups, &c., in win- 
ter and spring. 

The leek is a perfectly hardy species of onion, with a rather 
broad flag leaf, and swelling but slightly, the neck formed by 
the leaf-sheaths being its chief product for use. 

LETTUCE. 

French, Laittte. — German, Gartensalat. — Spanish, Lechuga. 

1. IMPERIAL ICE-HEAD. 2. SILESIAN. 3. WHITE CABBAGE. 
4. CURLED INDIA. 5. TENNIS BALL. 6. GREEN HEAD. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow thinly in very shallow drills, a foot apart, in your rich- 
est soil. Cover lightly, and if dry, give water. For head salad 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 149 

thin or transplant them to nine inches or a foot apart, and hoe 
often. 

Time : at the very earliest moment in spring, whether North 
or South, in the open ground or hot bed. They may be again 
sown in early fall for use before winter ; and again, alone or 
with spinach, later in the season to winter out, or for winter 
lettuce under glass in a cold bed, which may be banked with 
stable manure if necessary to forward them. 

Though there is a wide field for selection among the innu- 
merable varieties of lettuce, yet the first three numbered above 
will be found adequate to the supply of all reasonable demands, 
and are decidedly superior to most others. 

There are unexplained peculiarities about the seed and plant 
of the lettuce which afford valuable means of judging of its 
character. Varieties that are so milky and bitter as to be al- 
most valueless as salads, except to persons of a bitter fancy, are 
almost invariably of a reddish or dark-brown color, and usual- 
ly, if not always, have black seed. If the seed, therefore, be 
black, you may infer that the lettuce is more or less bitter, 
whatever its color may be ; and if the color be reddish or dark 
brown, the same inference may be drawn, whatever the appear- 
ance of the seed. This defect may, however, be overcome by 
blanching the heads of such varieties, which is effected either 
by gathering the leaves into an upright position, and tying 
them up, or by covering them with pans as directed for endive, 
page 142. 

There are two very distinct classes of lettuce : the soft or 
tender-leaved, and the crisp or brittle. 

What are sometimes called coss lettuces, of which No. 1 is 
the best known variety, belong to the latter class, and the Si- 
lesian and wliite cabbage to the former. 

The imperial ice-head, when of good stock, sometimes grows 
larger than an ordinary summer cabbage, is of excellent flavor, 
and of glass -like brittleness. 

The Silesian or yellow curled, and the curled India, with 
high cultivation, will grow nearly as large, are of good quality, 
handsomely curled, and very tender. 



15U AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

These may be sown in hot bed before spring opens, and 
transplanted as soon as practicable, or they may be sown in 
shallow drills in the open ground as early as it is possible to 
prepare it. 

They should be sown or planted in rich soil, and be thinned 
as they grow by cutting for use or hoeing out, until the plants 
left to form the main crop stand from nine inches to a foot 
apart each way. Let the hoeing be frequent and thorough, 
and while the plants are small, sow ash compost upon them, or 
water them with liquid manm'e, and early in the summer they 
will yield you fine and excellent head lettuce. 

The Avhite cabbage lettuce is chiefly valuable for its hardi- 
ness. It may be sown in the fall in alternate rows with spin- 
ach, and the same slight covering will protect them both through 
the winter ; and in the spring, after the spinach is cut, it will 
afford a lettuce crop of fair quality. Or the plants may be set 
in a cold bed in the fall, and by the aid of glass and a lining 
of stable manm^e in March they may be brought to perfection 
still earlier. The tennis ball is not a large lettuce, but heads 
firmly, and with some is a favorite. 

The green head, genuine, is a good though not first-class 
lettuce, somewhat hai'dy, and heading freely if of good stock ; 
but the name, being indefinite, is often applied to different kinds 
of green lettuces. 

MELONS. 

MUSKMELON. 
Frencli, Melon. — German, Melone. — Spanish, Melon. 

1. GREEN CITRON. PERSIAN. SKILLMAN'S. 2. NUTMEG. 3. 
CANTALUPE. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in very rich warm soil, in hills four to six feet apart, 
six or eight seeds in a hill, an inch deep. When well up, thin 
to the three best plants. Hoe often till the vines touch. 

Time : throughout the time of planting the main crop of 
corn both South and North. In regions so cool as to render it 
a doubtful crop, the seeds should be planted in pots in a hot 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 151 

bed about a month ahead, and the plants set out in the hills at 
the time of first corn-hoeing, and, if necessary, covered with 
hand-glasses. See page 35. 

Muskmelons, like all other vegetable productions that can 
easily be varied by culture or neglect, have multiplied names ; 
but the green citron, under some one of its many synonyms 
or sub-varieties, is the only kind that it seems desirable to 
raise. It is a netted, green-fleshed variety, regularly fluted, 
or, as it is called, quartered, usually sub-globular in shape, but 
sometimes vaiying almost to the cheese form. It is well known 
in our markets, and its form and appearance, once seen, will al- 
ways be remembered. Its quality, when of good stock and well 
raised, can not be sm-passed. 

No. 2 derived its name from the almost perfect similarity of 
its form to that of a nutmeg, and, when first introduced, was a 
melon of excellent quality ; but, by the carelessness or igno- 
rance of cultivators, it has been spoiled by intermixture with 
cucumber or pumpkin, and was superseded years ago by No. 1. 
I notice it only because the green citron or Persian is some- 
times erroneously called " nutmeg," from old association. 

No. 3, originally good, but not first-rate, includes all those 
large mongrel varieties that are generally longish, smooth, and 
yellow inside and out. They used to be eaten with the addi- 
tion of sugar, or pepper and salt, according to taste or lack of 
taste ; and, as Dr. Johnson said of the haggis, may be " pretty 
good for hogs." It is mentioned only because the thing and 
the name still lingers in certain districts among the relics of 
the past. 

Muskmelons of the best quality are raised in rich and rath- 
er light loam ; they should be planted in hills four or five feet 
apart each way, and treated in their culture precisely as cu- 
cumbers, lohicJi see. 

Melons are often gathered unseasonably, and are then nec- 
essarily inferior. Vf hen fit for gathering, a glance at the stem 
where it is set on to the fruit will show either a small quantity 
of molasses-like juice exuding, or a slight cracking of the con- 
nection between the stem and the fruit, and, on taking the fruit 



152 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

in the hand, it will be found to separate readily from the stem. 
No melon to which the stem adheres, or from which it has 
been separated by force or by the knife, is worth eating. 

The melon-patch should be looked over every day about 
noon, and the fruit then gathered be kept to cool and mature 
for next day's use. If, from previous neglect, the fruit is be- 
coming yellow, it should be cooled and eaten the same day. 
It is a cooling and slightly restringent fruit, and, if ripe and 
fresh, can not be eaten to excess. 

WATERMELON. 
French, Melon d'eau. — German, Wasser-melone. — Spanish, Melon de agua. 

CAROLINA. SPANISH. LONG ISLAND. EARLY APPLE-SEED. 
ORANGE. CITRON, &C. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in hills six feet apart, enriched with compost, or in 
very rich warm soil, five or six seeds in a hill, an inch deep. 
When well up, thin to the three best plants. Hoe often, gradu- 
ally hilling up until the vines touch, and after the young fruit 
appears cut oflf the extreme ends of the most luxuriant shoots. 

Time : about ten days after corn-planting. 

There is not much variety in the character of ordinary wa- 
termelons, except as they may be adapted to or affected by the 
climate in which they are raised. Fruits essentially Southern 
can not be expected to attain perfection in a northern latitude. 

Of the above named kinds, it is better, therefore, at the 
North to choose the Long Island or the early apple-seeded va- 
rieties than to risk disappointment by planting those which in 
suitable locations would grow larger and richer. 

The orange watermelon is a recent variety, of excellent qual- 
ity and peculiar habit, the inside of the fmit separating read- 
ily from the rind like an orange, whence its name. 

The " citron" is almost solid and tasteless, and is used only 
for making preserves — a mere vehicle for the exhibition of 
sugar and various flavorings. 

Their culture is the same as for muskmelon, ivhich see. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 153 



MUSHROOMS. 

French, Champignon comestible. — German, Esshare Blatterschamme. — Span- 
ish, Seta. 

The mushroom is a plant of the fungus family, which is 
abundantly produced in our old pastures when a dry summer 
is followed by a rather moist and warm fall. They may also 
be raised from what is known as "mushroom spawn." This 
is composed of loam, cut straw, and the fresh droppings of dry- 
fed and highly-kept horses, in which the spores or invisible 
seeds of the mushroom have been caused to germinate by gen- 
tle fermentation in a dry place, producing a minute, white, 
tubercular or thread-like growth throughout the mass. The 
ordinary process is first to work the whole into the condition 
of thick mortar or potters' clay, which the cut straw is used to 
bind together, after which it is formed into small bricks, into 
each of which a piece of old " spawn" is inserted as leaven. 
The bricks, being then carefully piled upon a layer of stable 
manure, are covered with enough of the same to induce a mod- 
erate warmth in the mass. When the bricks, on being broken, 
show that the spawn introduced or developed has spread through 
them, they are thoroughly dried, and in this state will keep 
good for several years. This is the " mushroom spawn" sold 
in the seed-stores. When broken into small pieces, it may be 
planted two or three inches deep in a spent hot bed in the 
spring, or in a bed made by alternate layers of good sandy 
loam and the horse-droppings named above. There may be 
two or three layers of each, the strata of horse- droppings being 
made four or six inches thick, and of the loam two inches, 
forming altogether a thickness of sixteen or eighteen inches. 
The bed may be large or small, as is found convenient, and 
will succeed in a cellar not quite dark, or under a shed, or in 
the open air, if formed so as to shed rain. It should be pretty 
thickly covered with loose straw, which must be replaced after 
each cutting of mushrooms. 

Instead of planting the bed with spawn, if in the season of 
mushrooms, each layer, as it is made, may be moderately wa- 
tered with lukewarm water in which ripe mushrooms have 

G2 



154 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

been soaked and stirred. When finished, the hist layer being 
loam, it must be covered with stable manure sufficient, with 
that already in the bed, to bring on a gentle fermentation. 
In a few weeks the " spawn" ought to be found spreading 
generally in the mass, and whenever this occurs the covering 
of manure is to be taken off, and the straw substituted, as 
above directed. After this, if it becomes very dry, it may 
have occasional gentle waterings with lukewarm water. 

In this process, however, success or failm^e will greatly de- 
pend on the skill with which the fermentation is tempered ; 
so that, in general, planting the spawn may be deemed more 
reliable. A mushroom bed properly treated will continue to 
yield its products for three or four months if a temperature 
equal to moderate spring or fall warmth be maintained, say 
about 60°. 

Mushrooms are very greatly esteemed by many on account 
of their rich, peculiar, and high flavor, whether stewed, or 
fried in sweet fat, or made into catsup in the ordinary mode, 
with suitable spices. 

In gathering wild mushrooms there is sometimes danger of 
getting by mistake other kinds of fungi which may be poison- 
ous. The true mushroom has a short stout stem, reddish gills, 
and an agreeable odor, considerably resembling the smell of 
the fruit of the egg-plant. 

Another variety of eatable mushroom (Agaricus Edulis), 
known as the " steeple-top," is sometimes found, though much 
more rarely than the former. 

In the lots it comes earlier than the common, with a longer 
stem and conical top, but having, like it, a pleasant smell. It 
has not, I think, been raised artificially. 

MUSTARD. 

French, Moutarde. — German, Senf. — Spanish, Mostaza. 

WHITE (really yellow). BROWN. 

BRIEF DIKECTIONS. 

Sow the white mustard thickly in shallow drills a foot apart 
from time to time through the season, each time one week 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 155 

later than the corresponding sowing of pepper-grass (see page 
166) ; treat in the same manner, and they will be ready to cut 
together. 

White mustard is chiefly used, either alone or with pepper- 
grass, lettuce, etc., in salads, for which purpose it is cut before 
the third leaf is formed upon the plant, or pulled, and the 
mere roots cut off. When of larger growth it is sometimes 
used for greens. See page 144. The seed is used medicinal- 
ly, and also for seasoning pickles. Brown mustard is raised 
for the seed, from which the condiment known upon our tables 
as mustard, when pure, is chiefly made, 

NASTURTIUM. 

French, Capucin. — German, Kapersinerblum. — Spanish, Nasturcio. 

TALL, DWARF. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in good soil, in drills an inch deep and three feet apart, 
and brush them like peas ; or by a fence or trellis upon which 
they can climb ; or they may be planted in hills four feet 
apart each way, either with or without brushing. Keep them 
clean until they begin to run, and afterward they will take 
care of themselves. 

Time : the opening of spring. In New York, first of May,' 

The young plants of nasturtiums are highly esteemed in 
salads. The flower-buds and the green seeds, with their ten- 
dril-like stem, make pickles, which are often preferred to ca- 
pers. See page 167. The flowers are quite ornamental, vary- 
ing from light yellow to maroon. 

OKRA. 

French, Gombo. — German, (?). — Spanish, Quimbombo. 

LONG, OR SOUTHERN, SHORT, OR NORTHERN. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in extra rich soil, in drills one inch deep and three or 
four feet apart, and thin to a foot distance in the row ; or 



156 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

plant in hills three feet apart each way, five or six seeds in a 
hill, and when well up, thin to the three best plants. 

Hoe often, keeping them perfectly clear of weeds, slightly 
and gradually hilling up. 

Time : during corn-planting time, or immediately after. 

Okra is a southern plant of the mallow tribe. It is of strong, 
coarse growth, from two to four feet high, bearing abundance 
of beautiful flowers, which are succeeded by long ribbed or 
smooth seed-pods. When these attain their full size, but 
while still tender, they are gathered for use. Their value is 
in the large amount of pleasant and healthful mucilage which 
they yield in boiling. On this account they are much used in 
thickening soups, for which pui'pose they may be kept for win- 
ter use by being cut up in cross slices or " rings," and dried 
upon strings like apples. 

They are also boiled and eaten with drawn butter, as aspar- 
agus ; or the tender pods are used for pickles. See page 167. 

The ripe seeds, roasted and used for coffee, are, perhaps, not 
at all inferior to it. 

The whole plant is also said to make excellent material for 
paper, the only difficulty being in obtaining quantity, an ordi- 
nary cart-load of the okra being required for each ream of pa- 
per. It is certainly worth while to ascertain carefully the val- 
ue of the seeds as " coffee," that, if available as a substitute, 
the cultivation of the plant may be extended. 

ONION. 

French, Oignon. — German, Zioiehel. — Spanish, Cebolla. 

1. RED. 2. WHITE. 3. YELLOW. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in very rich, light soil, in drills twelve inches apart ; 
cover lightly. Keep clean ; and if large onions are wanted, 
thin to three or four inches ; hoe often, and water with liquid 
guano, either from Peru or the hen-roost. 

Time : sow at the very earliest opening of spring, whether 
at the South or North. They may also be sown in the fall 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



157 



with safety, being perfectly hardy after they once sprout. In 
New York, sow during March and April. 



FORMS OP ONIONS. 
Fig. 77. 




a. Inferior Globe Onion, running to thick neck. 

b. Flat Rareripe, or early Onion. 

c. Common flat Onion. 

d. Best form of Onion. 

The varieties of onion are numerous, and the names still 
more numerous than the varieties. The names designating 
color are abundantly sufficient to distinguish the desirable 
kinds, form being entirely secondary, and readily changeable 
by the care or carelessness of the cultivator. 

In general it may be remarked that a good form for a com- 
mon turnip is a good form for an onion. See Fig. 80, p. 186. 

Common red, number one, is an onion of- the best quality, 
being milder and sweeter than the others, but the white and 
yellow are preferred where the discoloration produced in cook- 
ing by the former is regarded as a serious objection to its use. 
The yellow may generally be kept for use later in the spring 
than either the red or white. 

The ground upon which onions are to be raised should be 
light and rich, having been used for some clean crop, or for 
onions, the previous season ; and if^ after the gromid is prepared, 
straw or rubbish is spread evenly upon it and burned, it will 
destroy to some extent those weed-seeds which would be most 
troublesome, and afford a good top-dressing for the young crop. 
After the burning, the seed should be sown in drills one foot 
apart and half an inch deep, and carefully raked in. If the 
soil be very light, a gentle pressure upon the surface, either by 
the back of the rake or other means, will be found to set the 
earth about the seed and promote its prompt vegetation. After 



158 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

the plants are up they should be kept perfectly clean by fre- 
quent hoeing and hand-weeding, and thinned to one or two 
inches apart, or to four inches if large onions are desired, and 
in their cultivation avoid any earthing up of the bulbs. 

Onions while growing are greatly benefited by liquid ma- 
nure (see p. 64), which may be applied oi>ce or twice a week 
until they begin to ripen. Onions which, from late sowing or 
other causes, do not swell and ripen, if earthed up a little and 
left out through the winter, will yield excellent yomig onions 
very early in the spring. Choice ones intended for seeding 
should also be set out in the fall, foiu- or five inches deep. 

ONION SETS. 

Onions are often raised from what are called " sets," that is, 
very small onions of any color, which are either culled from the 
general crop, or obtained for this purpose by being sown late 
and very thickly, so that they are stunted in their growth, and 
form only small roots, which ripen prematurely. These are 
set out in the spring by being merely pressed with the thumb 
and finger into the soft, freshly-dug earth, at three or four 
inches apart, in rows a foot wide, and cultivated as above di- 
rected for onions from the seed. The young seed-stems which 
they usually throw up must be carefully broken out when six 
to twelve inches high, to aid or force the formation of bulbs. 
Sets thus treated yield a part of the green onions sold in spring, 
and the very early stringed and barreled dry onions known in 
our markets as rareripes. 

ESCALLIONS. 

Onions that are too large for sets, and the refuse onions that 
remain over from the winter's consumption, when planted in 
the spring, in rich soil, yield mild and pleasant green onions, 
known as escallions, which are ready for use almost as eai*ly as 
shallots, but are greatly preferable to them. 

_ ■ TOP ONIONS. 

RED. WHITE. YELLOW. 

Top onions produce their sets, as the common kinds yield 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 159 

their seed, in a ball on the top of the stalk. The common wild 
onion, so abundant in some dry lands, and so offensive in milk, 
and butter, and flour, is a small and strong variety of this 
species. 

To obtain top onion sets, plant the large onions, the growth 
of the previous year, either in the fall or spring, at about six 
inches apart, in rows a foot wide, and keep clean until the rip- 
ening of the top sets, or seed, as it is more commonly termed, 
which will be shown by the changing color of the stalks. 
These sets, being carefully kept in a dry and cool, but not 
freezing place, until early spring, are set out and cultivated in 
the same manner as the common onion sets above described, p. 
158, and yield their produce about the same time, or a little 
earlier. 

For early use, the top onion, whether green or dry, is valua- 
ble on account of its general mildness ; but it is also a little 
soft or spongy in texture, and therefore not esteemed after the 
coming in of the general crop of common onions. 

Of late years, quantities of them, of large size, are annually 
brought early to Northern markets from Bermuda and the 
South. 

POTATO ONIONS. 

Potato onions are so called from their habit of producing 
their bulbs just below the sm-face of the ground. The large 
roots of these onions are planted, in the same manner as above 
directed for top onions, to furnish the sets, and these, in turn, 
produce onions for use. Unless raised with special care, they 
are apt to be strong and unpleasant. To have them good, it is 
necessary to divide the sets in the spring until each has but a 
single heart ; then set them out in very rich, light soil, at the 
ordinary distance for onion sets, four inches apart in rows a foot 
wide, and cultivate them faithfully by frequent hoeings and 
top dressing, or the use of liquid manure (see p. 35), and they 
will yield you fine large onions, of a very mild and agreeable 
flavor. 



160 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

WELSH ONION. 

Ordinarily, vegetables reproduce themselves freely only in 
one direction, which may be either by sets from the root or by 
seed (sec p. 66) ; but to this general rule the Welsh onion is 
an exception, multiplying itself rapidly by the offsets, which it 
produces almost as freely as shallots, and by the seed, which it 
yields in the same manner, though not quite so abundantly as 
the common onion. Sets for planting may therefore be raised 
from seed or obtained in the fall from the roots. These, if only 
intended for family use, should stand permanently in a single 
row, or as edging to a path, so that they may spread freely, the 
outer offsets being slipped from the roots for use in the spring ; 
or, if intended for sale, they may be planted in August or Sep- 
tember, in rich soil, three or four inches deep, in rows fifteen to 
eighteen inches wide, and a foot apart in the row, a new plant- 
ing being made every fall, and the whole crop taken up for 
market every second or third year. 

They do not swell into large bulbs, like common onions, but 
resemble a large shallot or an escallion (see p. 158), and are 
used in the same manner, and only Avhile green. 

PARSLEY. 

French, Persil. — German, Petersilie. — Spanish, Perejil. 

CURLED. PLAIN. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in shallow drills twelve inches apart, in very rich, light 
soil. Cover lightly, and if dry, give water. Thin the plants 
to three inches, and keep clean by repeated hoeings. 

Time : throughout spring and summer at the North, or spring 
and fall at the South. 

The earlier-sown crop of parsley at the North should be 
used during summer and fall, or be taken up and stored, with 
the roots in the earth, in a light cellar for winter. The later- 
sown crop, if not so late as to be feeble at the coming of win- 
ter, will beai" the severe cold better, though sometimes either 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



161 



will stand out safely, and at other times both will fail. A 
slight covering of litter or evergreen brush, however, will usu- 
ally afford security. 

Generally, the more curled and beautiful the plant, the less 
vigorous is its growth, and by some persons the plain kind is 
thought to be of better flavor ; but in this respect either is good 
enough, and the superior beauty of the former variety will al- 
ways insure it the preference where quantity is not a control- 
ling consideration. 

It is largely used for garnishing. The whole plant is also 
used in soups, and, in default of the plant, the seeds, tied in a 
small bag, may be substituted. 

PARSNEP. 

French, Panais. — German, Pastinake. — Spanish, Chirivia. 

FORMS OF PARSNEPS. 





a. Long, deep Parsnep, inferior. 
h. Cup Parsnep, superior. 



162 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

1. CUP, OR GUERNSEY. 2. LONG WHITE. 3. ROUND. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in good deep soil, in drills eighteen inches apart, and 
about an inch deep. Cover carefully and firmly, and if dry, 
give water. Thin the plants to six or eight inches, and hoe 
often and deeply till the tops touch. 

Time : late spring or the beginning of summer at the North. 
At the close of summer in the South. New York, throughout 
May or in the beginning of June. 

The cup parsnep. No. 1, so called from the shape of its crown, 
is on all accounts the best. Its form is good as well as its 
quality, and its medium length secures as easy harvesting as 
seems practicable for a deep-root crop. 

The long white, No. 2, is apt to be comparatively thin and 
stringy, and sometimes runs so deep that it becomes a task to 
harvest it. The " round" (or rather " short"). No. 3, is a new 
variety, possessing nothing to induce its preference to No. 1. 
It is sometimes called early, but earliness in a winter root is 
not of special importance. 

Parsneps may be sown at any time from April to July at the 
North, and as late as August or September at the South ; the 
later the better if they can be driven rapidly in their growth 
by careful, constant cultivation. See remarks under Beet, p. 
120. 

If the crop is to be plowed, let the rows be two feet apart, 
and wliile the plants are quite small, thin them to six or eight 
inches in the row, and keep the earth about them clean and 
loose through the season. 

The roots may be harvested in the fall, and stored in an out- 
house or cellar, either in a bin or in a pile, which should be 
slightly covered with sand or common earth ; or they may be 
left in the open ground through the winter, and taken out for 
use as they are wanted. It should be remembered, however, 
that after they begin to grow in the spring they are undesira- 
ble for use, becoming in a measure poisonous. 

The parsnep has some advantages over other root crops ; it 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 163 

is not aflfected injuriously by frost after being stored, and is 
less watery. See Analysis and Value, page 500. 

PEAS. 

French, Pois. — German, Erhse. — Spanish, Guisantes. 

Early : Cedo Nulli. Canada. Emperor. Washington. 
Frame. Petersburg. Warwick, &c., &c. 

Late : Knight's Dwarf. Dwarf Blue Imperial. Royal 
Dwarf. Dwarf White Mari'owfat. Tall Marrowfat, &c., &c. 

BKIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in drills from two to five feet apart, and about two inch- 
es deep. When well up, hoe and draw the earth to them light- 
ly, and set brush from three to six feet high along them. 

Time : from November to February at the South. At the 
North, from March to the last of ]\Iay. 

All the first named are only sub-varieties of the same spe- 
cies, and while some of them are to be preferred on account of 
their superior earliness, it will be found a general rule that 
the earlier the pea the poorer the crop. 

Of the early kinds named above, the Canada and the cedo 
nulli are valuable for extra early ; for ordinary crop, the early 
Washington, frame. Emperor, Petersburg, or Warwick, the last- 
named, if genuine, being perhaps the finest flavored of early 
peas when cooked and eaten freshly gathered. Delicacy of 
flavor is generally a fugitive quality, and peas long gathered 
or heated lose it. 

The finer varieties of peas are in general less abundant bear- 
ers than those which are inferior. The combination of fair 
quantity with good quality will be found in the early varieties 
already commended ; and among the later kinds, in the dwarf 
blue imperial, the royal dwarf, sometimes called Missouri mar- 
rowfat, and the large white dwarf marrowfat. 

Of peas it may be remarked that, commonly, those which are 
perfectly full and smooth are less sweet than those which are 
wrinkled or misshapen, the degree of sweetness being usually 
in proportion to the shrinkage of the seed in drying. Knight's 



164 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

marrowfat, and kindred varieties, which are the sweetest of 
peas, are often found shrunken almost to a cube form. The 
analogy between this and the similar shrinkage of sugar corn 
will at once suggest itself to the intelligent reader, and may 
afford matter for interesting investigation. It should, how- 
ever, be remembered that mere sweetness is not all that is de- 
sirable in a good pea. To some persons excessive sweetness 
would be an objection. 

Numerous fancy kinds of peas are annually imported from 
Europe by our seedsmen, some of them of great excellence, but 
requiring too much care and too high culture to become staple 
varieties. Of such, the " Champion of England" among kinds 
called early, and the " British Queen" among later ones, may 
be named as of the highest character. 

In speaking of peas, the terms dwarf and tall are rela- 
tive, and very indefinite. The Spanish dwarf pea grows six 
inches high, the dwarf marrowfat nearly six feet, yet the latter 
is rightly enough named dwarf, for the tall marrowfats grow 
from ten to twelve feet, needing bean-poles to support them 
instead of pea-brush. 

The ground for peas should never be freshly maniu*ed on ac- 
count of the overgrowth of vine which it occasions, but for late 
peas the soil should be rich and strong ; for early ones, simply 
good and dry. 

Peas may be sown at intervals of one or two weeks from the 
very first opening of spring till a month after, or until the 
close of corn-planting time. The drills for them should be full 
two inches deep, for the early kinds two feet apart, and for the 
late kinds from three to five feet, according to the height they 
are calculated to grow. The brush for peas of the proper 
height for the kinds sown should be stuck firmly four or five 
inches apart on each side of the row, with just so much incli- 
nation inward as to bring the tops together, yet leaving the 
whole as bushy or spreading as possible, that the growth may 
have room to wander, and as large a surfiice as possible be ex- 
posed. No crowded crop ever grows finely or yields superior 
products. 

Some sow their peas in double rows at six or eight inches 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 165 

apart in order to save a portion of the labor of brushing, but it 
is very doubtful if a double row will, in general, yield more 
than a^ single one, for the blossoms are mostly thrown out in 
proportion to the exposure of the vines to the air and the room 
which the roots find. Every one has observed that two plants 
growing close together do not make a larger growth or yield a 
heavier product than if but one had occupied the place and 
drawn its nourishment from the same surface. 

The hoe should be used promptly and carefully when the 
peas are up one or two inches, and in the course of the season 
frequent hoeing will be necessary to aid their growth and to 
earth them up. 

In large market-garden pea culture, brushing is entirely 
dispensed with ; they are sown in wide rows, and the crop is 
heavily earthed up by plowing. 

A crop of turnips may generally be obtained from the ground 
upon which early peas have been raised, or it may be prepared 
for the fall sowing of spinach, lettuce, etc. 

Peas may be profitably raised as a farm crop in Northern or 
high localities, where the pea bug will not infest them. They 
are usually sown broadcast, at the rate of about four bushels to 
the acre, with a fcAV oats intermixed to give the pea-vines a 
partial support, and are mowed or cradled when ripe. But, 
wherever a good crop of com can be raised, peas should disap- 
pear from the list of ordinary farm crops. For Analysis and 
Value, see page 500. 

PEPPER. 

French, Piment. — German, Spanischer Pfeffer. Pfeffer. — Spanish, Pimento. 

1. SQUASH. 2. BELL. 3. SWEET SPANISH. 4. CAYENNE. 
5. BIRD. 

BBIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set the plants twelve or fifteen inches apart, in rows eight- 
een inches wide, in very rich, warm soil, and hoe often till they 
are in full blossom. 

Time : in hot bed, sow six weeks before corn-planting time. 

In the open ground, sow or set out plants just before first 
corn-hoeing. 



166 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

In household use, peppers are in demand chiefly for making 
or flavoring pickles. The squash pepper answers both these 
purposes, for the former of Avhich its thick, fleshy character 
especially fits it. 

The bell and sweet Spanish peppers grow larger, but are com- 
paratively thin, though they are often used and esteemed for 
the same purposes as the former, particularly in making man- 
goes. 

The long, or " Cayenne," is chiefly used in the manufacture 
of the condiment known by that name ; and the bird pepper is 
used to make the familiar " pepper- sauce." 

Peppers, whether sown in the open ground or transplanted 
from the hot bed, should stand in rows eighteen inches wide, 
leaving the plants at least twelve inches apart. They should 
be often hoed, and the earth gradually but moderately raised 
around them, so as to afibrd support to them when top-heavy 
Avith their fruit. 

PEPPERGRASS. 
French, Cresson Alenois. — German, Kresse. — Spanish, Mastuerzo. 

1. CURLED. 2. PLAIN. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in shallow drills, twelve inches apart. Cover lightly, 
and if dry, give water. Keep perfectly clear of weeds. 

Time : every two weeks throughout the season, if it is de- 
sired. 

Between the above varieties there is but slight difference, 
though the first named is esteemed of better quality and pret- 
tier appearance than the last. It may be successfully raised 
as above directed, and the ground upon which it is sown in 
spring can be used for some later crop. 

There is a broad-leaved cress, sometimes known as roquette, 
somewhat resembling the water cress, by some called land 
cress, and by others garden cress, which is a hardy biennial 
that yields a strong peppery salad through the fall and very 
early in the following spring, if sown and cultivated as parsley 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 107 

(which see, p. 160). If sown at all, it should be in a warm, 
rich spot, and if slightly covered for winter it will start the 
earlier in spring. 

PICKLES. 

French, Saumure. — German, Pekel. — Spanish, Eschabeches. 

A gi-eat variety of articles are used for pickles, viz., beans, 
beets, brocoli, cabbage, especially the red or purple, carrots, 
cauliflower, cucumbers small and large, green and ripe, the 
seeds being first removed from the latter, garlic, okra, Martynia 
or proboscis, plant, melons, nasturtiums, small onions, peppers, 
shallots, tomatoes, Madeira-nuts, black walnuts, butternuts, &c. 
The processes of their preparation are also somewhat varied. 

Nastm-tiums are simply bottled in cold vinegar, furnishing 
their own spice. 

Cabbage is shredded as cole-slaw, and scalded with the hot 
vinegar and spices which have been boiled together, and to 
which the necessary salt has been added. 

Beets and carrots are first cooked as for ordinary use, then 
the hot spiced vinegar is poured over them, and when cooled 
they are fit for use. 

Onions, garlic, and shallots are improved by being first 
lightly boiled in milk and water. They are then skinned, and 
the hot spiced vinegar poured over them as the former. 

Beans, cucumbers, okra, Martynia, melons, peppers, and to- 
matoes, all which should be selected while tender, and as nearly 
as possible of uniform size, also brocoli and cauliflower, when 
carefully divided into rather small pieces, may all be salted 
with dry salt, or strong brine, if they will not make it, for eight 
or ten days ; then being washed off and soaked in fresh water 
for twenty-four hom-s, they should be put in cold vinegar, with 
the necessary spices, and set in a stone pot upon a stove until 
they are cooked through, or in a kettle over a slow fire until 
upon the point of boiling, being careful to keep them under the 
vinegar, and if uneven in size, the larger ones at the bottom. 
Then take them off", and put them while hot into proper ves- 
sels ; cover tightly, and when cooled they may be used, 

Madeira-nuts, black walnuts, and butternuts, if taken while 



168 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

yet so tender that a needle will readily penetrate the inner 
shell, and, as a preparatory step, soaked for a week in water 
or brine to leach off their excessive bitterness, may be salted 
and made up by the process last described, and are, by some 
persons, preferred to all other pickles. 

The spicing is varied according to individual taste. Be- 
sides the ordinary spices, white mustard-seed, peppers, nastur- 
tiums, horseradish, onions, garlic, etc., are often mixed with 
the various kinds of pickles to flavor them. 

PIE PLANT. 

French, Rhubarhe. — German, Rhubarher. — Spanish, Ruibarho. 

EARLY. LARGE LATE. GIANT SEEDLESS. 

For the seeding varieties sow from February to May, in good 
soil, in a drill about an inch deep ; cover carefully, and if 
dry, give water two or three times. Keep the plants clear of 
weeds through the summer, and in the following fall or spring 
set them out where they are to remain permanently, in deep 
and very rich soil, in rows three to four feet wide, and fifteen 
to thirty inches apart in the row. 

Let it be well cultivated through the second year of its 
growth, and well manm'ed in the fall, and in the following 
spring it may be freely plucked for use. 

The earlier varieties of pie plant produce leaf-stems twelve 
or fifteen inches in length, and from one to two inches in cir- 
cumference, and may be set out at the smaller distances named 
above ; but the large varieties, as the Victoria, the giant seed- 
less, etc., coming later in the season, and, with high culture, 
yielding leaf-stems from two to three feet long and proportion- 
ably thick, require the full spaces mentioned. 

Experienced cultivators usually cut out the seed-stalk when 
it first starts, in order to encourage the leaf growth. The giant 
seedless, as its name imports, never produces a seed-stalk un- 
less from a diseased plant, and with proper care may be made 
to yield its leaf-stems more largely than any other variety. 

For a private garden about a dozen plants of the early and 
as many of the late varieties will usually furnish a supply. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 169 

Pie plant may be easily forced by the following simple proc- 
ess : Ov^er each of the plants you wish to force place an old 
ban-el, open at both ends, but with a loose head to cover the 
upper end as occasion may require. Pile fresh stable manure 
around it, from a foot thick at the bottom to six inches at the 
top. Put the cover on only in freezing weather, and if yom' 
root be large and vigorous, as it should always be for forcing, 
the growth of long, fine, tender leaf-stem will soon fill the bar- 
rel. The ban-el must be removed as soon as you judge that a 
fair amount of leaf has been taken from the plant, and the op- 
eration, which is really a pretty severe taxing process, should 
not be repeated upon the same plant two years in succession. 
What are called young plants, in their second and third years, 
generally produce the finest specimens of growth. To have a 
constant succession of these, it is only necessary to uncover the 
croAvn of an old plant early in the spring, and with a knife 
separate a portion of the young outer shoots that are just start- 
ing, taking with them a small piece of the parent root. Set 
them out and cultivate them as above directed, and in the 
next two years they will probably produce their largest and 
best leaf-stems. 

In gathering pie plant the leaf should not be cut from the 
plant, but deftly slipped off by a twisting, sideway pull. 

It is used in making puddings, pies, and tarts, and for stew- 
ing. Its acid is pretty strong, yet not rough ; and it is re- 
markable that in stewing, especially when the sweetening is a 
mixtm-e of sugar and molasses, quite a variety of fruit-flavors, 
as peach, plum, etc., are incidentally brought out, though, so 
far as I know, no rule for their production can be given. It 
may also be remarked that if, after the stem is peeled and cut 
up into half-inch pieces, boiling water be poured upon it and 
allowed to stand for half an hour, and then poured off, and the 
small quantity of water necessary to stew it with be added to 
it fresh, almost half the ordinary amount of sweetening will be 
saved, without any great injury to its flavor. Some persons, 
however, avoid either peeling or scalding it, as calculated to 
destroy its peculiar goid, especially while young and tender. 

H 



170 AMEBIC AN HOME GARDEN. 

POTATO. 

French, Pomme de terre. — German, Kai-toffel. — Spanish, Papa. 

KIDNEY, WESTERN RED. BLUE-NOSE. CARTER. MERCER, &C, 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in rows from two feet to thirty inches apart, in rich, 
warm soil, and cover three or four inches deep. Dress them 
with plaster as soon as they are well up, and hoe often, hilling 
them carefully, but not high, in the process. 

Time : for early crop, plant at the very first opening of 
spring North or South. For the main crop, a few weeks later, 
which at New York may be in the beginning of May. 

The culture of the potato is so well known that it need 
scarcely be mentioned as a garden vegetable, except with a par- 
ticular object, viz., the raising of very early potatoes. For this 
purpose the sets should have some special preparation. If se- 
lected in advance, and placed in a warm room or cellar, so that 
they start to grow about half an inch or a little more before 
planting, and then be put in with care, and promptly covered 
from the sun, they will, if the season prove favorable, go right 
on to their maturity, and some time will be gained. 

For this crop select a very warm spot, and manure it thor- 
oughly with fresh warm stable manure dug or plowed in. 
Plant the sets at about one foot apart, in rows two and a half 
feet Avide, either in an opened shallow furrow or in holes made 
for the purpose with the hoe ; in either case, dressing with a 
half handful of plaster, or lime, or bone-dust, to each set, and 
covering them about three inches deep. 

Or the manure may be laid thickly in the planting furrows, 
made deeper for this purpose, and the sets be laid immediately 
upon it, and dressed and covered as before directed. 

If the weather prove cold after planting, a light covering of 
litter or coarse manure spread upon the sm'face will be a ben- 
efit. 

Let the hoeing be performed promptly and deeply when they 
appear above ground, and repeated again and again, dressing 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 171 

them at least once with half a handful of plaster (gypsum) to 
each if not used at the time of planting, and hill them grad- 
ually, and they will soon furnish your table. 

The jNIercer or " Nutmeg" may be planted for the early crop. 

The potato has of late years become subject to a disease 
known as the " potato-rot," by which the whole crop of a farm 
or a district perishes within a few days. As yet it remains en- 
tirely unaccounted for, neither has any remedy for it been dis- 
covered. 

The ground intended for Lima or other pole beans may be 
half cropped with early potatoes by planting the latter in rows 
fom- feet wide, and after^^ard planting the beans in their hills 
between them. The potatoes, if well planted and tended, will 
come oiT in time to give the beans the whole space, and the 
rough manure used for the former will be reduced to a proper 
state to feed and stimulate the latter. 

Frequent and pretty thorough experiments have been made 
to ascertain the proper size for seed potatoes, and whether they 
ought to be planted whole or may advantageously be cut up, 
but no satisfactory conclusion has been aiTived at. Results 
have been obtained from plantings of the mere eyes scooped 
out of the size of a cherry, and even from thick peelings, near- 
ly or quite equal to those given by plantings of large whole 
tubers. In this dilemma, the prevailing sense of intelligent 
cultivators seems to have fallen back upon the general princi- 
ple that " like produces like," and to have concluded that the 
sets ought to be at least mature, and of fair (egg) size, and 
that, if much larger, they may be cut. The principle and the 
practice under it are sound, especially in all vegetable life, 
where mere habit fixes with mar\'elous rapidity. The results 
which embarrassed the decision were doubtless due to the spe- 
cial care given in the course of the experiments, and would fail 
in any general system of culture. The rule may be safely 
adopted to plant only mature tubers. If of egg size, or but a 
little larger, plant them whole ; or if seed be of great import- 
ance, divide them lengthwise or diagonally. Only one or two 
eyes grow to top, however many the set may have. If, there- 
fore, you have only lai'ge potatoes, cut them into pieces con- 



172 AMERICAN HOMK GAUDEN, 

taining two or three eyes each ; let them dry a little before 
planting ; set them out as directed ; give them good culture, 
and your crop will l>e aH good as soil and season justify you in 
expecting. ]Mip})iiig oft" all the blossoms before they open, if 
you can find time for the operation, will somewhat increase the 
product. See Analysis awl Valiie, page 500. 
For Sweet Potato, sec page 182. 

PUMPKIN. 

French, (JilrouHk. Potlron. — German, Kurbis. — Spanish, Calabaza 
A marilla. 

]. SEVEN-YEAR. 2. CIIEE-:E. 'j. COMMON FIEM). 4. MAM- 
MOTH. 

Illtli;i'" DIinOCTIONH. 

TMarit in very rich warm soil, in hills six feet apart, six or 
eight seeds in a hill. When well up, thin to the three best 
plants, lloe often till the blossoms open. 

Time : throughout the time of main corn-planting. In all 
May at New York. 

The keeping, or" seven-year" pumpkin, is an excellent veg- 
etable, drier and richer in quality, and keeping better than any 
other, though not actually lasting seven years. The cheese, or 
West India pumpkin, is also of great excellence, being far 
handsomer and perhaps more delicate than the former. The 
(common, or field pumf)kin, is too well known to require descrip- 
tion, and is sometimes preferred by those who love its genuine 
pumpkin flavor. 

The niiunmoth pumpkin, in all its varieties, is rather matter 
of curiosity than profit. It is seldom of fine quality, is too 
large for profitable domestic use, and docs not generally yield 
more weight of produce from a given quantity of land than the 
moderate-sized varieties. 

The brief directions given alx)vc arc ample for the successful 
cultivation of this vegeta))le, which is also often planted among 
corn. Pumpkins (and also squashes) may be kept well into 
winter in any dry, cool phice, out of the reach of frost, either 



AMERICAN HOME (iARDEN, 



17:^. 



by hanging them up singly, or by ptujking them away in bins 
or burrels with chaff or cut straw ; or they may be kept for use 
in spring, wiien milk and eggs abound, by being stewed and 
then dried upon a board in the sun or an oven ; or, still tetter, 
by being stewed and put up in patent fruit-cans in the ordi- 
nary manner. 

RADISH. 
French, Radis. Rave. — German, Rnl.ti;j. — Spanish, Rabano. 

FORMS OF RADISHES. 

1 ig. 7'J. 






a. Good long Jtadiuli. 
6. I/alflong " 

c. roar-Hliapo'l " 

d. L'nwjutli or club-form ; CliincBC 

roHe-colored winter liadUh. 



> Mongrtls. 



Long Scarlet, Long White Naples. 
Tui-nip. Black Fall, or Spanish. 
Rose Winter. 



e. Infrrior Turnip KadiBh. 
/. Good " " 

ff. Inferior black fall " 
h. Superior " " 



Scarlet Turnip, White 
White Fall. Chinese 



BKIEF DIBECTIONS, 



Sow in shallow drills or on light, rich soil, left a little 
rough, and rake the seed thoroughly in. When well up, sow 
ashes or poudrette pretty liberally n\X)ji them. 

Time : from the earliest spring to late autumn, omitting the 
hottest months of summer, at the South or North. 



Of the various kinds of radish, the long scarlet and scarlet 



171 AMEllICAN llOMK CAUDKX. 

tiiniip are inost liij^lily cHtocmcd. TIk; wliito varieties are 
BomotiincH Hupposcd to bo milder, and to bear the heat Ixjttcr 
thaii others, aMd on this account to ho preferal>lo for fiumrnor 
use, but we are not Hure that exfyerience Biistains tliese no- 
tioriH. 

JlitdishcH of a, purph; eohtr arc almost always very strong, 
oven sicrid, but all kinds are liable to become so by neglect or 
error in their cultivation. 

'PIk! various foi-ins intermediate between the long and turnij) 
radisli an; genei-ally th(! result of accidental admixture, and 
any ()n(^ who (thooses may repi(»<hic(^ tlu^m fi'om original sources. 
'IMury are merely fancifid, having no |)ecnliar merit, ex(;ept that 
tiu) peai-shaped or half long varic^ties might j)erhaj)S succeed 
on soils where the longer kinds wouhl iaii. 

The black or white fall or S{)anish radish sliould lu; sown 
and gathered at, the sairu^ time as common turnips, a,nd may b(^ 
stored in sand for winter use. It is a, larger coarse-looking 
radish, but of liiu', solid texture and good quality. 

Th(! (Miinest! ros(;-('olored winter radish is of pretty appear- 
inice and good (piality, and may be sown at the same time or a 
little later than the black Spanish. 

Kadishes should be sown in light, rich soil, in drills about 
eight inches a])art and half an iiu'h deep, and covered careful- 
ly by raking along the drills, and adding, if it seem necessa- 
ry to settle! lh(! earth about the seed, a, gentle pressui'C with 
the back of IIk^ rake, or by mea.ns of a board, which may be 
laid ov<'r it and |)ressed with the I'oot ; but in e\))erienced 
Inuids a. slight beating with the back of the rake will bi; the 
(|uiek(>st mode. Or the seed may bo sown broadcast, being 
thiidy scattered over the ground and thoroughly raked in. If 
the w(5ather be dry when you sow, water lightly each evening 
until th(; se(Hl sprouts, and continue it afterward if it seem 
needful. 

Sow ash compost or ])oudrette upon them at least twice dur- 
ing their growth, or water occasionally witli liijuid nianiu'C, 
and, if sown in drills, hoe carefully between them, lladishes 
may be sown at intervals of one or two weeks, from the earliest 
opening of s})ring until late fall, and at the f;u' South through 



AMERICAN HOMK (lAKDKN. 175 

"the winter montliH ;" l)ut, unless the season Ix) peculiar, or 
p^rciit care ])e used, tli<^ sunini(!r crops will not l)e ^ood. 

Froin the brief but Hiiniciciil direciioiis thus ^iv(!n, it would 
seem easy to raise j^ood nidislics, jet, if" w(! excerpt a part of 
those brought to city uuirkets, such are exceediiif^ly rare. Any 
cause that checks the growth of a radish <lestroys its (piality. 
This cause may be the i)Overty of the soil, its natural uusuit- 
ablencss, as being heavy or cold, or having some special defect ; 
or it may Ix) the occurrence of cold weather after the crop has 
well started to grow, or the prevalence of summer heat. Either 
of thes(! causes may Huflic(! to account for strong, uni)leasarit 
roots. Radishes thus checked in their growth are aJinost in- 
variably infested with worms, which are a, consequence, and 
not, as somotimes supposed, the cause of their checik. 

If th(! seed sown be of inferior stock, tlu; radishes will be 
strong and stringy, and the eating of them will be like chew- 
ing small, tough sticks. But to have good radishes, if seed of 
good stock be sown, it is only necessary tliat they grow dcadily 
and rapidly, j)e pull(;d as soon as they attain a fair size, and 
eaten while fresh from the garden. 

From what has been said, it is plain that a light and rather 
sandy soil is to be chosen for rjulishes. Where this can bo 
made artificially (sere Mechanical ]'reparation of Soil, p. IX), 
radishes of any kind may be sown ; but where experience lias 
proved that the long radish will not succeed, the turnip radish 
only should be sown, avoiding any attempt to raise very early 
crops, and giving the ground careful pre):)aration and thorough 
majniring. 

Radishes are often combined with other crops calculated to 
succeed them, as lettuces, or beets, or early cabbages ; but, un- 
less land is very valuable, or marnire scarce, it is not worth 
while to adopt this mode. (See Combination of Crops, p. 85.) 

RAPE OR COLEWORT. 

Frcncli, Colza. — German, JiojisholU. — Spani.sli, Naho Silvestre. 

Both the plant and seed of rape resemble the brown mus- 
tard. It is S(mietimes called coh;, or colewort, from its French 
name, colza. It is often sown thickly in drills a foot apart, 



170 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

and cut for greens when six or eight inches high. See Greens, 
page 143. Cabbages of various kinds being sometimes sown 
in the same manner and for the same purpose, all young non- 
heading early cabbages have come to be called " coleworts," 
corrupted to " collards." 

In certain sections the colewort is sown largely for its seeds, 
on account of the oil they yield, and for feeding to birds. 

ROQUETTE. 
See Pepper-grass, page 166. 

SAGE. 

French, Sauge. — German, Salbey. — Spanish, Salvia. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in a shallow drill, in rich soil. Cover lightly, and ii 
dry, give water. When the plants are from two to four inches 
high, transplant and set them in a bed or in rows a foot apart 
each way, and keep clean. 

Time : in all spring. 

Sage is used largely in sausages, and for various purposes in 
cookery. It is also used in medicine, and formerly its virtues 
were so highly esteemed that it passed into a proverb, " "Why 
should a man die who has sage in his garden ?" The moderns 
do not think so highly of it, but it is still used in the form of 
sage-tea as a drink, and with alum as a gargle. 

Sow the seed and transplant as above directed. Cut and 
dry the leaf for use when at full size, which will generally be 
after mid-autumn, taking care not to trim the plant too closely. 

SALSAFY (or Vegetable Oyster). 
French, Salsafis. — German, Bockshart. — Spanish, Ostra b Ostion vejetal. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow the seed in rich, well-prepared soil, in drills fifteen to 
eighteen inches apart, and an inch deep ; cover it carefully, and 
press the earth lightly upon it, and when well up, thin the 
plants to four or five inches apart, and hoe and weed often, un- 
til the tops meet across the rows. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 177 

Time : late spring or beginning of summer at the North ; 
at the South in early fall ; and in the far South it may also 
be sown with the very earliest spring crops for summer use. 

At New York in all May or beginning of June. 

The salsafy has rather a narrow, flag-like leaf, and its root 
resembles a small white parsnep. 

In localities Avhere veritable oysters are not readily obtained, 
it affords an agreeable substitute. For this purpose, the root 
should be washed and grated, seasoned to taste, mixed with 
a batter made of milk and flour, and made light either with 
soda and cream of tartar or eggs, and fried with sweet fat in 
small cakes. It is also occasionally used in soups, or boiled 
and mashed as squash. 

SCORZONERA. 

Prench, Scorzonei-e. — German, Scorzionenvurzel. — Spanish, Es^orzonera. 

Sown and treated precisely as salsafy, used for the same 
general purposes, and scarcely at all differing from it except 
in being too bitter to use without previous soaking. 

SEA KALE. 

French, Cliou Marin. — German, Meerkohl. — Spanish, Breton de Mar. Col 

Marina. 

Sow in early spring, in rich soil, in a drill an inch deep, 
and cover carefully and rather fii'mly. 

Keep the young plants clean throughout the season, and in 
the following spring plant them out where they are to stand, 
in deep and very rich soil, in rows fom- or five feet wide, set- 
ting the plants eighteen inches apart in the row. 

Hoe often and deeply through the season, and after the tops 
die in the fall, ridge up the earth from the intervals over the 
crowns of the plants to a depth of fifteen or eighteen inches. 
In the spring they will push up through this ridge a tender, 
white, fleshy growth, which may be cut near the crown of the 
plant by opening the side of the ridge, or removing it entirely 
from the plants you gather. These branched stems are cooked 
and eaten as asparagus. 

112 



178 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

When the spring cutting is completed, having leveled down 
the ridges, manui'e the intervals, and cultivate as before, to give 
it vigor for the next year's taxing. 

It is sometimes planted in rows or hills only eighteen inches 
or two feet apart each way, and, instead of being ridged, the 
crowns are slightly covered for winter, and in the spring earth- 
en pots, known as " sea-kale pots," about fifteen inches deep 
and twelve inches diameter, are placed over it to force and 
blanch it, which sometimes, also, are surrounded with stable 
manure to hasten the process. These pots have a hole in what 
would ordinai'ily be called the bottom, but which, as inverted, 
is the top, large enough to admit the hand for cutting the 
crop, to which a knobbed cover, like the cover of a water-jar, 
is fitted by the potter. 

Like asparagus, sea kale is a maintime plant, and is, by some 
persons, very highly esteemed as a delicacy ; but a large major- 
ity would justly conclude that " it costs more than it comes to." 

SHALLOTS. 
Prench, Echalote. — German, Schalotte. — Spanish, Chalote. 

Plant the sets, from early fall to winter, in very rich soil 
about three inches deep, in rows fifteen inches wide, and about 
six inches apart in the row. Hoe often and deeply, and keep 
perfectly clean. As early in the spring as practicable, hoe 
deeply, and top-dress once with poudrette, or guauo, or liquid 
manure, and pull them as soon as sufficiently grown for use. 

The shallot is a well-known kind of onion, which increases 
largely by offsets from the root, used chiefly at the very open- 
ing of spring, being the earliest of the onion kind that appears 
in the green state in market. 

SOREL. 

French, Oseille. — German, Sauerarnpfer. — Spanish, Acedera. 

The French or garden sorel is a perennial plant, with leaves 
as large as those of the yellow dock, and of a strong, clear, 
acid taste. It is raised from seed sown in the spring in a 
shallow drill, and a few plants may be set out where they can 
stand permanently and be out of the way. 



' AMERICAN H03IE GARDEN. 179 

It will be esteemed by those who fancy salads made up in 
the modes of Paris, or Madrid, or Vienna ; but, after all, it is 
simply the " sour-grass" of our boyhood. 

SPINACH. 

French, Epinard. — German, Spinal. Spinal Kohl. — Sj^anish, Espinara. 

PRICKLY (seeded). ROUND (SEEDED) OR SAVOY. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in shallow drills twelve inches apart. Cover lightly, 
and if dry, give water. Keep clean, and spread straw or ever- 
green brush thinly over it for the winter. 

Time : earliest fall or first of spring at the North. Through- 
out the fall or at the opening of spring at the South general- 
ly. At the extreme South, throughout the " winter months" 
also. In New York, September and March. 

Spinach is the first green vegetable that spring yields for 
cooking, affording a pleasant and wholesome dish at a season 
when nothing remains of our last year's store but roots and 
winter cabbage. Many persons esteem it very highly for 
greens, while some think it but little superior to the common 
dock leaf. It comes, however, earlier than the latter, and has 
therefore an advantage in point of time, if not in quality. 

There are several varieties, but the round seeded Savoy spin- 
ach, having a thick, crum.pled leaf, is the best for ordinary use. 
It should be sown in rows as above directed, and if sown in the 
fall, hardy cabbage lettuce may be profitably sown in alternate 
rows between it, which will winter with the same slight cover- 
ing, and may either be transplanted at the opening of spring 
for very early heading, or cultivated where it stands after the 
spinach is cut. 

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 

The New Zealand spinach, Tetragona expansa, is a rather 
coarse summer " green," not particularly desirable where the 
ordinary green vegetables are attainable, but may be of value 
in very warm climates. 



180 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

It may be planted in all spring, in hills three feet apart, in 
very rich soil, five or six seeds in a hill, and must be kept clean 
by frequent hoeings, drawing up the earth from time to time 
so as to form a pretty large flattish hill, over which the plants 
will throw their strong luxuriant growth, from which the leaves 
for cooking may be gathered throughout the summer. 

SQUASHES. 
SQUASH (summer). 

French, Giraumon. Courge. — German, Melonen Kurhis. — Spanish, Especie 
de la Calabaza. 

BERGEN BUSH. WHITE SCOLLOP. EARLY GOLDEN. SUMMER 
CROOKNECK. 

For Squash Bug, &c., see Fig. G5, page 102. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant in very rich warm soil, in hills four to six feet apart, 
six or eight seeds in a hill, an inch deep. When well up, thin 
to the three best plants. Hoe often, and gradually hill up till 
the blossoms open. 

Time : throughout the time of corn-planting South or North. 

At New York in all May or early in June. 

The Bergen squash is the best of all bush squashes, and may 
be advantageously substituted for all summer squashes, wheth- 
er bush or running, and perhaps also for all winter squashes, 
except the cocoanut, or Porter's winter. 

It is a heart-shaped gi-een and white squash, of medium size, 
and in rich soil a good cropper, coming as early as any, and 
continuing as long in bearing. 

Even while the shell is soft, it is superior to the white or 
golden scollop, but it is not in perfection until the shell begins 
to harden considerably, when it becomes dry and rich beyond 
any other summer variety. 

The white and golden scollop, the summer crooknecks, and 
the various fancy varieties, have their merits, but none of them 
combine so many desirable qualities as the Bergen, which, as 



AMERICAN HOME GAKDEX. 18 1 

before stated, if planted rather late, may be kept for winter, 
care being taken to use the soft-shelled ones first. 

SQUASH (winter). 

COCOANUT, OR PORTER'S WINTER. WINTER BELL. CANADA 
CROOKNECK, &C. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Plant and tend in the manner above directed for summer 
squash, but at greater distances, say from six to ten feet apart. 
Time : in the time of main corn-planting South or North. 
At New York in all May. 

The winter bell and Canada crookneck squashes are very 
good varieties, the latter especially yielding abundantly. 

The cocoa-nut, or Porter's winter squash, is the best of all 
known squashes. Its vines, however, run amazingly, and, un- 
less very highly cultivated, it is rather less productive in 
northern latitudes than other varieties. It is sometimes called 
the Valparaiso sc{uash, and oftener Porter's, because originally 
introduced from that plaee by the late Commodore Porter, Its 
other and prevailing name is derived from the form of the fruit, 
which somewhat resembles a cocoanut with the husk on. It 
has a roughish coat of a gi'ay or stone color. 

The flesh, which is not very thick, is of a deep annatto 
orange color, and extremely rich and dry. 

Squashes that are to be kept for winter use should be treat- 
ed as directed for pumpkins, page 172. 

SUMMER SAVORY. 

French, Sariette cfete. — German, Saturei. Jjohne Kreitchen. — Spanish, 

Ajedrea. 

BRIEF niRECTIONS. 

Sow in very shallow drills or upon the fresh surface, in rows 
twelve inches apart, in rich light soil. Cover lightly, and if 
dry, give water. Thin the plants to three inches distance, and 
keep clean. 

Time : throughout spring at the North. At the South, ei- 



\^'2 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

ther at the opening of spring or early in the fall. At New 
York from March to July. 

It should be cut for diying soon after it begins to blossom. 

SWEET BASIL. 

French, Basilic. — German, Jiasiiikuvi. — Spanish, Allahaca. 

SWEET MARJORAM. 

French, Marjolaine. — German, Marjoran. — Spanish, Mejorana. 

These are two aromatic herbs, used in cookery for seasoning, 
and may be sown and treated in all respects as summer savory. 
See above. 

SWEET POTATO. 

French, Patate Sucr^. Patate Douce. Patate Malaga. — German, Bataten. 
Suesze Kartoffel. — Spanish, Battatas. 

Sweet potatoes are raised from sets. These are either small 
potatoes, raised for this purpose from summer cuttings of the 
vines in the previous year, or the cullings of the general crop 
carefully wintered in dry sand, etc., or the young shoots of 
large or small wintered tubers, started at the opening of spring 
in a hot bed or box to furnish sets for the season. 

When four or five inches long the shoots are ready for plant- 
ing, and should be carefully taken off and set out as they suc- 
cessively attain this size. 

Rich, warm, and, if possible, sandy soil must be chosen, and 
about the time of corn-planting the hills should be carefully 
prepared, at four feet apart each way, raising them slightly, 
and mixing in plenty of rich compost, unless the whole has 
been well manured. About the time of the first corn-hoeing 
plant three or four sets in each hill, covering them three inches 
deep if small or cut tubers are planted, and if the young shoots 
are used let their points just appear above ground, and press 
the earth gently about their lower ends ; or set them eighteen 
inches apart, in rows three feet wide. 

Protect them a while from either cold or sun if it appears 
necessary, and keep them perfectly clean and frequently hoed, 
dressing them once or twice with plaster or ash compost, grad- 



AMERICAN home: GARDEN. IS'6 

ually enlarging the hill or ridge until the growth of their vines 
prevents farther work among them. 

When perfectly ripened and carefully dried after digging, 
they may be stored in dry sand with safety for winter use. 

In the field culture of sweet potatoes the land is prepared 
and the hills or ridges made and cultivated with the plow. 

THYME. 

French, TItym. — German, Tldmian. — Spanish, Tornillo. 

Sow in rows a foot wide upon the surface' of finely-prepared, 
rich soil, and water moderately until the plants come up. 
When two or three inches high, thin or transplant to six 
inches apart, and keep perfectly clean. 

Time : spring at the North ; spring or fiill at the South. 

This is a pleasant and valuable herb, used for seasoning 
stews, poultry, etc. It should be cut for drying as soon as it 
begins to blossom, or before frost if sown too late to blossom. 

TOMATO. 

French, Tomate. — German, Liehes Apfel. — Spanish, Tomato. 

LARGE CRUMPLED. APPLE. PEAR. CHERRY. GRAPE. 

Either Red or Yelloiu. 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Set the plants eighteen inches apart, in rows two feet wide, or 
in hills three feet apart, in light, warm soil, not very rich, and 
plow or hoe deeply from time to time till the tops interfere. 

Time : sow in hot bed from six to eight weeks before main 
corn-planting, when the plants may be set out or the seed 
sown in the open ground either South or North. 

At New York, March in hot bed ; May in open ground, to 
sow or set out. 

All the above varieties are named from their general size 
and appearance, and of each there is a red and a yellow variety. 
The red are generally preferred for cooking, and the yellow for 
preserves. All the varieties bear abundantly, though perhaps 
the large crumpled kind is the most prolific. For all ordinary 



184 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

purposes, the apple or large smooth merits a decided preference. 
The cheiTy and grape varieties are pretty, but not otherwise 
valuable. 

It is quite desirable to sow tomatoes early in hot bed, or in 
a box of good earth in the house if a hot bed is not made ; but 
if not thus provided, they may be sown somewhat later, with- 
out artificial heat, in a warm, rich spot, the seed being lightly 
covered, regularly watered with water that is slightly warmed 
in the sun or in the house, and at night covered with a cloth, 
or mat, or box, until the weather becomes definitely warm. As 
soon as the plants are then ready, let them be carefully set out 
in rows two feet wide, and eighteen inches apart in the row, in 
light, warm soil, not made too rich, and either furnished with 
brush to climb upon or left to spread upon the ground, hoeing 
them often and deeply, gradually hilling them up until the 
tops spread so as to prevent it. 

If very early tomatoes are desired, the plants should be pot- 
ted as directed page 87 ; in about a fortnight change them 
into larger, say quart pots, and by the time it is safe to set 
them out they will be ready to come into blossom. If skill- 
fully transferred from the pot to the hill, and, in case of un- 
expected cold, covered with pots or boxes, they will be scarcely 
at all checked in their growth by the change, and will quickly 
mature their fruit. In this, however, they may be aided by 
nipping the ends of the main shoots, limiting the growth of 
side shoots, and exposing the fruit to the sun. 

Where tomatoes are raised in large quantities the ground 
may be prepared and fun-owed as for corn, at three feet apart 
each wa}^, two or three plants being set in each hill. All their 
necessary culture may also be performed by repeated and care- 
ful cross-plowings, following each by a slight hilling up with 
the hoe, and pulling out by hand any weeds that may be found 
too close to the plants to cut, and too large to cover in the 
hoeing. 

All the varieties of tomato may be taken while green and 
kept in brine, or salted, for making up into pickles in the ordi- 
nary modes, as they are wanted through the year. 

Tomato catsup is made by ]x)iling the ripe fruit to a pulp. 



AMERICAN HOME GAKUEN, 185 

which is then strained through a sieve that will keep out the 
skins and seeds ; and after being again thoroughly boiled, re- 
ducing it somewhat, adding salt and spice according to taste, 
it is cooled and bottled for use. 

Either the apple or pear tomatoes make a pleasant preserve 
for immediate use, or for keeping if put in preserving cans. 
For this purpose, the fruit may be taken while green, or when 
about three fourths ripe. If the latter, boiling water is poured 
over them, and the skins are carefully taken oif ; if the former, 
the skins are left on. Having the fruit prepared, add to each 
three pounds of it two quarts of water, one and a half pounds 
of sugar, one good-sized lemon, sliced, or a quarter ounce of 
green ginger, or both, and boil slowly till the sirup thickens. 

To make what are known as " tomato figs," take the pear- 
shaped variety when nearly, but not quite ripe, and boil them 
as above directed for preserves, with the water, and sugar, and 
lemon or green ginger in the same proportions. When suffi- 
ciently boiled, take the tomatoes out of the sirup, and lay 
them singly upon flat dishes, and place them in the sun ; when 
partially dried, sprinkle finely-crushed sugar thinly over them, 
turning and sugaring them daily until they are sufficiently 
dried ; or, if difficulty arises from biul weather, the drying 
may be completed in an oven at a low heat. They may then 
be packed, and pressed closely into boxes lined with white 
paper, and, if thought needful, more sugar may be added. 

For winter use, the ripe tomatoes may be stewed, and simply 
salted or fully seasoned, and kept in patent fruit-cans in the 
usual mode until wanted, when they are to be stewed afresh, 
and seasoned anew if desired. 

TURNIP. 

French, Navdt. — German, Rube. Steckr'dbe. — Spanish, Nabo. 

EARLY RED-TOP. EARLY DUTCH. EARLY STONE. LONG, OR 
TANKARD. YELLOW ABERDEEN. YELLOW GLOBE. RUS- 
SIA, OR RUTA BAGA. , 

BRIEF DIRECTIONS. 

Sow in shallow drills, twelve inches apart. Cover lightly, 



18(3 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



and if diy, give water. In garden culture hoe them at least 
once, thinning the plants to four or six inches. 

Time : at the very earliest moment of spring if intended for 
summer use. If for winter, as late in the fall as possible, so 
that about eight weeks of cool moist weather may be allowed 
for their growth, or for ruta baga twelve weeks. If they are 
not hoed during their growth, they will require a little longer 
time to mature. 

At New York, common turnips may be sown in March for 
summer, and August for winter use ; ruta baga in June or 
first half of July, 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 187 

a. Uncouth form, Dale's hybrid Turnip. /. Globe-formed Turnip. 

b. Egg-formed Ruta Baga. g. Cheese-formed Turnip, or a "flattened 

c. Worthless Ruta Baga, long-necked and spheroid." 

branch-rooted. h. Flat-formed Turnip. 

d. Inferior heart-shaped Turnip. i. Double concave form, as yelloiv Malta. 

e. Superior heart-shaped Turnip. 

Of the kinds named above, the early red-top, sometimes call- 
ed pui-ple-top, the Aberdeen, and the Russia, or ruta baga, 
will meet all the ordinary demands of a family. The early 
Dutch and stone are good varieties, and with some persons the 
long, or tankard, recently sometimes called French, is a favor- 
ite ; but the red-top is of the freest growth and of the best 
quality of white turnips, and will supply the table for summer 
use, and from early fall until New Year, The yellow globe, or 
Aberdeen, may succeed it until late in March, after which the 
Russia alone may be used until new vegetables come in. 

Common tm'nips may be sown in drills from twelve to eight- 
een inches apart, or broadcast upon fine, light, well-prepared 
soil. In either case let the seed be but lightly raked in, and 
if the weather is very dry, give water, using an ordinary rose 
watering-pot. When sown very early or very late, water them 
occasionally in the course of their growth with liquid manure, 
or top-dress them with ash compost or some other stimulating 
application ; hoe repeatedly, and thin them carefully to three 
or four inches apart. 

With this treatment, the early kinds sometimes furnish good 
roots before the summer heat spoils them, or succeed well for 
winter use, though sown even as late as the beginning of Sep- 
tember. 

In moist and misty climates turnips may be sown to advant- 
age in early spring, but in our climate it is seldom that spring- 
sown turnips are fit to eat. In general, they serve only for 
flavoring summer soup. 

Russia tm-nip, or ruta baga, when sown in the garden and 
intended for family use, should not be sown eai-lier than from 
the first to the middle of July at New York and the North 
generally — say from two to four weeks earlier than the fall 
sowing of the common kinds, and should always be sown in 
drills, and carefully hastened in its growth by hoeing and top- 
dressing. See also Turnip Bug, page 102. 



.188 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



WATER CRESS. 

French, Cresson de Fontaine. — German, Wasser Kresse, Brunen Kresse.— 

Spanish, Berro. 

The water cress may be raised from seed, cuttings, or plants, 
sown or planted in the edge of a living spring or stream, where 
its roots may be ever so slightly protected by the water from 
the intense cold ; or it may be sown or set in the narrow in- 
tervals of a floor or bed made with rough paving stones, over 
which a gentle shallow stream is made to flow. North of New 
York it may be thinly covered in winter, if found necessary, 
with straw, or salt hay, or evergreen brush. 

It starts at the first opening of spring, and being gathered 
as soon as sufiiciently grown, is the earliest warm aromatic 
salad seen in our markets. 

It is highly esteemed, being not only agreeable to the taste 
of most persons, but also regarded as a valuable antiscorbutic, 
peculiarly suitable for spring use. 

The brooklime (Veronica Beccabunga), a worthless plant, 
distinguishable by its ovate and flat leaf from the water cress, 
is sometimes mistaken for it. 



ASSORTMENT OF SEEDS, ABOUT SUFFICIENT FOR A GARDEN OF 
MODERATE SIZE, SAY A QUARTER OF AN ACRE. 

As garden seeds are extensively sold in " papers," I have 
given the ordinary equivalents of the respective weights and 
measures. It may be found occasionally useful to beginners. 

4 papers. 



Bush Beans of various 

kinds 3 pints= 6 papers. 

Pole Beans of various 

kinds 2 " = 6 " 

Early Peas of various 

kinds 5 " =10 " 

Late Peas, various kinds 3 " = 6 " 

Cucumbers " ... 1 oz. ^2 " 

Muskraelon i " =^1 " 

Watermelon ^ " ^ 1 " 

Summer bush Squash . . 1 " = 2 " 

Winter " ... i " =; 1 " 

Pumpkin | " =1 " 

Early Cabbage i " := 1 " 

Winter " i" ^2 " 

Cauliflower, or Brocoli. . j " := 1 " 

Beets of various kinds.. 2 " ^ 4 " 

Carrots " " . . 1 " = 3 " 

Parsnip " " . . 1 " := 2 " 

Turnips " " .. 1 " = 2 " 

Kadish ia varieties 3 " =z 6 " 



Onion in varieties 2 oz. : 

Onion sets 1 pint. 

Lettuce in varieties i oz. : 

Spinach 2 " 

Dock I " 

Celery J " 

Pepper i " : 

Egg-plant i " ; 

Tomato i " : 

Salsafy | " : 

Okra \ " : 

Mustard 1 " : 

Peppergrass 1 " : 

Nasturtium \ " ; 

Leek f " : 

Parsley \ " : 

^age 

f^umraer Savory 

Sweet Hasil 

Sweet Marjoram 

Thyme 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 189 



CHAPTER Xn. 

Fruits. — Effect of Soil, Climate. — Shape of, Color, Flavor, Specific Gravity. 
— Fruit-trees ; selecting Varieties, bearing Qualities, new Kinds. 

FRUITS. 
" Good for food, and pleasant to the eyes." 

Fruits always commend themselves to the natural taste, and 
then" free use in the ripe state, whether raw or cooked, is pleas- 
ant, economical, and highly conducive to health. In some 
fruits a simple statement of the grade of their quality is suffi- 
cient ; but in several of the more important classes, as apples 
and pears, there are general divisions which it is important to 
notice, as summer and winter fruits, sweet, subacid, vinous, sour, 
melting, buttery, firm, mealy, gritty, &c. ; and in plums and 
peaches, clings or freestones. Various persons prefer fruit with 
one or other of these peculiarities, according to diversity of taste, 
or for special seasons or uses : melting, buttery, subacid or sweet, 
and freestone fruits for eating out of hand ; clingstone, sour, and 
finu fruits for preserving — the sweet fruits preserved or stewed 
being usually flat, though occasionally a subacid fruit is found 
which, with little sugar, is yet lively, the acid developing with 
the process of cooking ; as also sour fruit, when cooked, is more 
acid than when raw. 

Most of these peculiarities in fruits are modified by various 
causes, as soil, climate, &c., in some cases deteriorating good 
kinds till they become almost worthless. 

EFFECT OF SOIL. 

A wet and cold soil, whether it be poor or rich, tends to in- 
crease the rough acidity of fruits ; a warm, dry soil, on the 
other hand, naturally heightens the flavor, and limits and re- 
fines the acidity. 
. Fniits raised in very rich soil, other things being equal, are 



190 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

larger, but less rich, both in flavor and saccharum, than the 
same fruits raised with less luxuriance of growth on poorer 
soil. Our Western apples are beautiful in appearance, but do 
not command the price of those raised upon the hills that bor- 
der the Hudson, either in domestic or foreign markets. The 
vineyards of the hills, and not of the level and fertile valleys 
of France, make the richest qualities of wines. 

EFFECT OF CLIMATE. 

Speaking generally, fruits gradually increase in richness and 
variety as we proceed from the north southward to the tropics. 
But the natural boundaries of the various families of fruits are 
limited, having probably as their centre a line of perfection, of 
greater or less width, for each particular tribe, which, as we di- 
verge from that line, deteriorates under our hand. As an illus- 
tration merely, we may assume the latitude of 42° to be the 
line of perfection for- the apple, 38° or 40° for the pear and 
cherry, and 30° or 35° for the vine. But certain kinds of any 
given class of fruits are also better suited than others to the 
particular varieties of climate found within these natural bound- 
aries, and we say therefore of one apple it is a Northern, and 
of another it is a Southern fruit, and we make lists of them as 
they are supposed to be suited to the colder or warmer regions 
of the zone to which the family belongs. 

We may also conclude ordinarily that the varieties of fruits 
best suited to a given region will be those which have origi- 
nated in it or in some other region of like location. The New- 
town pippin, which is the chief of apples where it can be prop- 
erly matiured, attains its perfection only near the line of lati- 
tude in which it originated, and when exempted from the in- 
fluence of a too cold or humid soil. The Rhode Island green- 
ing, lively and piquant in its proper latitude, becomes flat and 
worthless in a Southern climate. 

As we bring varieties toward the central line of perfection 
from the North, the influence of the change of climate is similar 
to that of a single particularly long and warm summer in their 
native region, or of transfer to a warmer soil, or to a locality 
where the temperature is modified by a river or body of water, or 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 191 

of a system of very open trimming, or of planting the individual 
tree in an especially warm exposure, all of which are merely 
temporary or local modifications of climate. But this change 
for the better in the character of the finiit is usually accompa- 
nied by another of a different kind. The fruit not only ripens 
higher, but it ripens earlier, and as ripeness is ahvays the pre- 
cursor of rottenness, it will not keep so well. The Rhode Isl- 
and gi'eening and the Baldwin, raised in Massachusetts, are less 
perishable than the same varieties raised in New Jersey. It 
is important to take this into account when we are transferring 
varieties to new localities, otherwise we may fail to secure in 
the fruit the very qualities for which we have esteemed it. 

SHAPE OF FRUITS. 

The form of fruits is seldom of much importance, but in ap- 
ples it affords a general indication of quality. The flattened 
and globular, and the obtuse conical forms are mostly pretty 
close at the core, and all the very best varieties of apples be- 
long to these forms. The long-shaped apples have generally 
large, open, " rattle-box" cores ; and while many of them are 
distinguished by pleasant peculiarities of flavor, as the gilli- 
flower, there are very few, if any, first-class fruits among them. 
Fruits of an oblique or one-sided form, as the Chandler (see p. 
309), are apt to run defective on the shrunken side in seasons 
that may be even but slightly unfavorable, and, in general, all 
fmits with an irregular or disproportioned development of form 
are liable to similar imperfections. 

COLOR, 
Fruits with a large proportion of bright red, or with at least 
a full, deep blush cheek, or of a deep golden yelloAV color, al- 
ways strike the eye as more beautiful, and find a readier mar- 
ket than others of only equal quality and less color. 

FLAVOR. 

Of the various flavors found in fruits of the same family, 
some seem to be produced simply by a happy combination of 
clear, pleasant acid, with a due proportion of sugar, and arc 



192 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

abiding, and suit all palates ; others are in the nature of an 
aroma or spiciness, which is well developed only in very favor- 
able circumstances, and in most cases is so fugitive that it 
must be enjoyed at the very moment of perfect ripening, or it 
is lost, and in reference to which tastes vary greatly. Such 
may be chosen for special culture, but not for the general pur- 
poses of life or profits of business. For the effect of soil and 
climate upon flavor, sec those heads. 

SPECIFIC GRAVITY. 

Other things being equal, the comparative value of any fruit 
may be instantly determined, like the value of gold, by its su- 
perior specific gravity, or " heft," as we say familiarly. This 
indicates with precision its richness in saccharum, and may 
guide the manufacturer of vinegar in his choice of fruits for 
this purpose, though for cooking or eating we need to inquire 
farther as to flavor, &c. 

FRUIT-TREES. 

SELECTING VARIETIES. / 

In making a selection of fruits, choose mainly from such va- 
rieties as are known to succeed in your own locality, either as 
having ori^nated there or become wonted. If you seek to in- 
troduce improved varieties, never depend on their reputation in 
other localities, but study their intrinsic character. If you 
transfer the Boston russet or the Baldwin to New Jersey or 
Delaware merely with a view to home consumption, you may 
succeed ; but if with the idea of raising apples for shipping, 
you will be disappointed. If, however, you find in Canada or 
New England an apple of good color, shape, and heft, but in- 
dicating by its excess of acid that the season in those latitudes 
is not long enough to perfect it, you may move it southward 
with a probability amounting almost to certainty that you will 
obtain a valuable fruit. 

Perhaps the general rule may be expressed thus : Fruits 
that ripen very late, or do not ripen at all in a given latitude, 
will improve by moving South ; and fruits that in a more 
southerly location ripen early, may be moved northward with- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 193 

out being injui-ed. For the mode of producing and treating 
seedling fruits, see those heads, pages 194 and 204. 

There is a difference in the period of blossoming of different 
varieties in the same orchard, which is sometimes due to in- 
herent natural diversity, but often, also, is the effect of climate, 
the habit of the tree, formed in a warmer or colder latitude, 
adhering to it. Sometimes the season's crop is lost by the 
spring frost killing the too early blossoms of a southern tree, 
and at others injury is avoided and a crop gained by the tardy 
blossoming of a northern one. 

It is sometimes worth w^hile to choose kinds that may be 
reatlily identified by the peculiar appearance of the young 
branches, as the snow peach by its white shoots, the Napoleon 
pear by its slate color, and the Dix by its slender willowy yel- 
low ones, and the Bergamotte Suisse by its striped bark, with 
which the stripes upon the fniit have a general correspond- 
ence. It is, however, much more important to attend to the 
mode of growth which distinguishes each particular variety 
you propose to plant, as whether its habit be erect or drooping ; 
whether, like the peach, it throAV out its branches at acute an- 
gles, with a weak joint, and is therefore liable to be split by 
winds or broken down by its crop of fruit, or at obtuse angles, 
or horizontally, as the Rhode Island greening and Graven- 
stein among apples, and the hickory among forest trees, and is 
therefore sti'ong to bear both wind and fniit. Also, whether 
it has a habit of forming a snug, well-shaped head, as the 
Seckel or Lodge pears, from which the fruit may be gathered 
easily, or long, straggling, or upright branches, which can not 
be climbed, and can scarcely be reached by a ladder, and for 
which the fruit-gatherer becomes necessary. 

BEARING QUALITIES. 
Certain kinds are better bearers than others under equally 
favorable circumstances, as among apples the Rhode Island 
greening is superior in this respect to the Pound sweet or the 
Vanderveer. Certain other varieties always bear heavily, but 
only in alternate years, as the Jersey sweeting and the com- 
mon or Poughkeepsie russeting. In some trees the fruit spurs, 

I 



194 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

or bunches of blossom buds are thrown out from the older 
growth, while in other varieties the blossoms are produced 
chiefly from the terminal buds of young shoots, upon which, at 
matm'ity, the fruit dangles. 

Generally, the trees of heavy-bearing varieties are not long 
lived, being either constitutionally feeble or exhausted by ex- 
cessive crops, or both. 

It will be found best, on the whole, to choose varieties that 
bear moderately, and of which the fruit is neither so small as 
to be tedious in the gathering, nor so large as to expose it to 
be swept off by winds, though, in reference to the russet and 
Jersey sweeting named above, special peculiarities will always 
secure them a place in the orchard, in spite of their compara- 
tively early decay. It may also be added that the habit of 
heavy alternate bearing may be changed in the youth of the 
tree by perseveringly stripping it of blossoms in the bearing 
year until it is forced into blossoming moderately every season, 
or only half the tree may be so disciplined, or one side may be 
grafted with another variety of diverse habit. 

PRODUCTION OF NEW FRUITS, &C. 

From the knowledge we possess, it seems probable that the 
kinds of fruit, as well as individual trees, have but a limited 
period of healthful growth and productiveness, and hence new 
kinds become desirable. 

In reference to fruits, the theory has been proposed that, in 
attempting to raise improved varieties of fruits from seed, we 
should select for intermixture, not individuals of the very 
best known varieties, but those of a somewhat inferior grade 
which are in process of amelioration, thus running them, as 
it Avere, on an independent line upward from the original base 
stock. 

This theory may be good, but it does not look so. We may 
assume that in each family of fruits there is a point of excel- 
lence beyond which human skill in its culture will not be able 
to carry it. K our best-known varieties have already attained 
to this perfection in their various kinds, the most direct course 
would seem to be to reproduce them anew from seed as nearly 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 195' 

like themselves as possible. If they have not attained that 
point they may be still progressing ; but if they have simply 
an-ived at the acme of their individual character, and not con- 
stituting standards for their class, then it becomes difficult to 
explain why the incessant efforts of the last half century have 
not produced an apple superior to the Newtown pippin, a pear 
as finely flavored as the Seckel, or a plum equal to the old 
green gage, whose seedlings, raised haphazard through the 
country, though inferior to their parent, yet occupy almost 
alone the wide space lying between it and all other varieties 
of plum. My readers may pursue either track at their pleas- 
ure. See Fertilization, page 74. 



CHAPTER Xm. 



Propagation of Fruit-trees by Seeds, Cuttings, Layers, &c. — Various 
Stocks for Fruit-trees. 

PROPAGATION OF FRUIT-TREES. 

BY SEEDS. 

See " Seedling Stocks," page 204. 

BY CUTTIXGS. 

Currants, gooseberries, grape-vines, and quinces are often 
raised from cuttings, and it is quite possible to raise apples, 
pears, and other fruits in the same way. 

Certain fruit-trees, as some varieties of the apple, indicate 
a disposition to root by pushing out bunches or ganglions of 
half-formed or inchoate buds from the plain body of the stem, 
and from these, in due time, young shoots proceed. Cuttings 
from such varieties strike readily. In certain circumstances 
a similar result seems forced, as when the young green growth 
feathers the whole length of the rough bark of the body of a 
felled pitch-pine, or an equally unpromising locust post in a 
lumber-yard. 

It is not, however, desirable to raise fruit-trees in this man- 
ner. The heavier trees, when raised from cuttings, never make 



196 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



enough strong roots to hold them securely ; they are generally 
also much longer in attaining size than those raised from seed, 
or grafted on seedling stocks. 

Cuttings of currants, gooseberries, etc., are made from one 
or more buds of the last year's growth, and should not be taken 
from very near the point of the young shoots, but so far down 
as to secure some firmness in the wood, and little pith. In 
general, also, it is better to take them from the horizontal 
branches which issue from near the root than from the central 
upright growth. 



BUD CUTTINGS. 
Fig. 81. 





a. Bud Cutting with sealed ends. 

b. Bud Cutting divided lengthwise. 

A bud cutting consists of a single bud, with an inch or so of 
the stem left on each side of it, which may be sealed at the 
ends with pitch or grafting composition, as Fig. 81a, though this 
is not essential ; or it may be divided lengthwise, as shown 
above, Fig. 816. Three or four of these may be set, with the bud 
in position to start upward, about an inch deep, around the in- 
side edge of a quart garden-pot in rich eai'th, or each bud may 
be put singly into a half-pint pot, which is preferable. Early 
in the season place them in a gentle hot bed to start them. 
After they begin to grow and the weather becomes warm, the 
glass may be removed, and, if they are carefully watered and 
shaded, it will be safe to set them out in the open ground in 
June, or they can be transferred to larger pots, as may be de- 
sired. Single bud cuttings were largely used some years ago 
for producing morus multicaulis, but ai'e now resorted to al- 
most exclusively for increasing rapidly choice varieties of the 
grape. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



197 



BRANCH CUTTINGS. 

Fig. 
c 




a. An ordinary woody cutting. 

b. A -woody cutting with half an inch of last year's wood at the hutt. 

c. A cutting slipped off from the main stem, having the butt smoothly trimmed, com- 
monly called a "slip." 

d. A currant cutting with the underground buds cut off at the shoulder. 

e. Cutting with its " callous" formed at the butt preparatory to rooting. 
/. Cutting with roots and leaves put forth, ready for setting out. 

Branch cuttings should have five or more buds, or three if 
very long jointed, and must be smoothly cut with a sharp 
knife just below and close by the lower bud (Fig. 82 a). If a 
small piece of the old wood can be left at the butt of the cut- 
ting it will more certainly succeed (Fig. 82 h). This object is 
equally secured by slipping off the cutting from its main stem 
and trimming it smoothly, and shortening it as in Fig. 82 c. 

To prevent a habit of throwing up stem suckers, to which 
currants and gooseberries especially are liable, the buds may 
be cut off or broken clean out with the heart from that portion 
of the cutting which is covered in planting, leaving the bud- 
shoulder and bark of the branch uninjured, Fig. 82 d. Fig. 82 e 
and/ show the inci pient and progressive growth of cuttings. In 
general, cuttings should be planted so as to leave at discretion 
from one to three buds above ground. (See also p. 438.) When 



198 



AifERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



made in the fall, they should be very carefully planted, and 
mulched between the rows late in the season, which will both 
promote safe wintering, and supply a needful shade in spring. 

Cuttings of all kinds, that may have become dried even to 
shriveling, may be restored by carefully soaking them before 
planting, and shading and watering afterward. 




a. Layer sprouts, the heavier one too strong for layering, unless toward its extremity. 

b. Ordinary layering, with the tongues cut too sharp. 

c. Ordinary layering, with the tongues cut nearly upon the upper side of the sprout, and 

nibbed close to the bud. 

d. Common layering on a heavy sprout, rendered manageable by a cut on Jh:" upptr curve. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. HU) 

Layers are properly branch cuttings, planted without being 
entirely severed from the parent plant, and, like ordinary branch 
cuttings, they ai-e usually made from sprouts of last year's 
growth. To prepare a woody bush or plant for layering, let all 
very weak, or forked, and also overgrown sprouts be cut away, 
leaving only such as have pretty fully developed buds down to 
within six or eight inches of the ground. K the growth has 
been so strong that the buds upon a foot or more of the lower 
end of the sprout are small and obscure, it is seldom worth 
while to layer it, unless it be toward the middle or the upper 
extremity. (See Fig. 83 a.) The sprouts you propose to layer 
must then be trimmed clear of all side shoots and leaves as far 
up as it will be requisite to bury them. Ha^dng the bush or 
plant thus trimmed, dig the earth carefully around it, breaking 
It fine, and mixing rich mould with it, and sand if the soil l^e 
heavy, leaving the whole, when finished, veiy slightly raised 
above the natural level. Next, with a shingle five or six 
inches long, or with the spade, make an open slit in the earth 
to receive the layer. At such distance from the butt of the 
sprout as will permit of its being bent down into the ground, 
which is generally eight or ten inches, a cut is made about 
half thi'ough the branch, immediately below and close to a bud, 
and the knife being then carefully turned upwai'd, a slit is 
made of about an inch in length, which is teimed tongueing it, 
and the tongue, when cut, should have its end not thin and 
sloping in, as shown in Fig. 83 b, but rather square or clubbed, 
as Fig. 83 c, for which purpose, if needful, it must be nibl^ed. 

It is then carefully bent down, with a slightly twisting mo- 
tion in the process, to prevent snapping it ofi" and to open it, 
and being finiily pinned down with a hooked stick. Fig. 83 6, cl, 
it may be covered with from two to four inches of earth, cau- 
tiously pressing it downward and around the layer, which 
should then, like ordinary branch cuttings, be shortened to one 
or two buds above the sm-face. It will be found in practice 
that there is much less danger of layers snapping ofi"wlien the 
tongue is cut nearly upon the upper or inner side of the sprout, 
in which case, by slightly twisting it, the bark side of the 
sprout is brought underneath, while the lower end of the tongue 



200 ' AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

slides off the cut into a position almost perpendicular. (See 
Fig. 83 c.) If the sprout to be layered prove stubborn, a slight 
cut on the upper side, near the butt and toward the parent tree, 
will weaken its resistance, and enable you to bend and pin it to 
its proper place, and will also probably promote the rooting of 
the layer, unless it be made more than half thi'ough the sprout, 
which should be avoided. (See Fig. 83 d.) 

All tongued layers require much care in removing them from 
the parent plant, to avoid splitting them up from the tongue. 
Generally, all the roots will be found to have grown from the 
tongue-bud, and a little rashness may leave you a rootless 
plant. (See Fig. 88, p. 203.) 

Besides tongueing, other modes of attaining the same end 
are sometimes used, as notching the sprout about half thi'ough 
immediately below a bud. Sometimes tongueing is combined 
with this, and in inexperienced hands the notching will render 
it easier to form the tongue properly. Banding tightly with 
wire, piercing with an awl or knife, girdling a naiTOW space, or 
merely twisting the shoot just beyond the bud from which the 
roots are expected to push, are all resorted to, while some 
plants, as the grape-vine, root freely if the branches are simply 
fastened down and covered lightly with earth. 

HILL LAYERING. 

Fig. 84. This is a process often re- 

sorted to for propagating free- 
rooting woody plants, as the 
quince, certain varieties of 
the apple, and some forest 
trees. The young shoots are 
prepared by trimming, as di- 
rected above for common lay- 
ering, but may be tongued or not, according to the character of 
the tree, a flattened or dished hill of earth, six or eight inches 
high, being made about them, as shown in the figure. All lay- 
ers are benefited by being mulched, but hill layers especially 
should be thus protected and regularly watered, dressing them 
occasionally with weak liquid manure. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 201 

For hill layering by simple banking up, see " Offshoots," ^ 
p. 203. 

STOCKS. 

For the propagation of fruits by grafting or budding, stocks 
are required, and it is of great importance that they be stocks 
on which the fruit we graft or bud will not only grow, but last 
and grow healthfully to matmity. Grafts or buds may some- 
times grow for a year or two upon very incongruous stocks, as 
the peach upon the wild cherry, &c., and the curious may try 
to ascertain how far these incongruities, and devices to coun- 
terfeit them, which are so famous in Chinese and Italian gar- 
dening, may be pushed. The ancients as well as the modems 
amused themselves with such experiments, and have left us 
the record of their very useless labors. A different course 
must be pm'sued if we seek fruits for use or profit. 

Stocks should be of kindred species with the graft or bud 
that is united to them, or at least of the same natural order, 
as pear and quince, or thorn ; plum and peach, &c. 

Unless for the purpose of dwarfing, the stock should always, 
if possible, be of as free growth as the kind which is grafted 
or budded upon it ; and if this can not be attained, then the 
grafting or budding should be performed close to the ground, 
so that when the tree is transplanted the head of the stock 
may be set entirely under gromid, othenvise the grafted kind 
will largely overgrow the stock at the point of junction, and 
probably induce disease and premature decay. 

In many parts of our country there is difficulty in this mat- 
ter in respect to stocks for plums, but few of our common kinds, 
except the Mussel or Horse plum, being free growers, while 
this is so liable to the black knot as to render it nearly value- 
less, in addition to which it is almost always raised from lay- 
ers, which do not root like seedlings. 

ROOT STOCKS. 

Pieces of the roots of mature trees are sometimes used for 
grafting, being cut into lengths for this purpose (Fig. 85 a), 
and set out after the grafting is performed, an expedient which 

I -2 



202 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

rig. 85. 





a. A pair of root stocks, pieces of root from mature trees. 

b. A pair of root stocks, pieces of the tap-root of one or two-year-old seedlings. 

should never be resorted to ; sucli stocks generally make only 
a one-sided growth of root, and, as in the case of sucker stocks, 
leave the tree to the mercy of the wind. It requires symmet- 
rical roots to sustain a tree in erect and healthful growth (see 
Fig. 89 h, page 204). Neither offshoot, nor sucker, nor root 
stock will furnish these, unless, possibly, the tap-root of a 
seedling cut into lengths, which, perhaps, may he expected to 
retain throughout its growth the natural habit of its seedling 
form (Fig. 85 6). 

ROOT SUCKERS. 

Fig. 86. 




Eunner roots and their suckers, with feeble hair-like rootlets. 

Root suckers are often used for stocks. These differ from 
offshoots or stem suckers in that they are thrown up from pe- 
culiar runner-roots, which do not supply food to the tree, but 
rather abstract it to support the young brood they put forth. 
This habit of throwing up suckers is transmitted to the suck- 
er, and when it is used as a stock the tree becomes a nuisance, 
not only generally failing to form sufficient root to support it- 
self, but, instead of this, spreading around it a young forest of 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



203 



Avorthless growth (Fig. 86). I have now in my eye such a 
tree, obtained from one of the best nurseries in the state, which, 
though not thicker than a man's arm, requires bracing against 
the wind, while its root suckers are spread over a circle of sixty 
feet diameter. 



Fig. ST. 




Offshoots from the stem collar 
putting forth rootlets. 



OFFSHOOTS, OR STEM SUCKER STOCKS. 

Many kinds of trees have a habit of throwing out young 
shoots from the stem at the butt, or just 
above it, especially when the upper 
growth is checked or cut off. In cer- 
tain kinds, these young shoots, if touch- 
ing the earth, root freely, and of this 
habit advantage is sometimes taken to 
procure such for stocks by banking the 
earth around the tree. They are known 
as oifshoots, or stem suckers (Fig. 87). 

They are really untongued hill layers, and have, in general, the 

disadvantages of layer stocks. 

LAYER STOCKS. 

Stocks, particularly of cherry and plum, and the dwarf ap- 
!• is- 85. pies, are extensively raised 

by layers. For this pur- 
pose the tree is cut off 
close to the ground, so as 
to induce sprouting from 
the collar. In a few years 
it loses entirely the char- 
acter of a stemmed tree, 
and becomes a mere bunch 
of sprouts, which, as they 
are renewed from year to year, are trimmed out and layered 
(Fig. 88). They are of certain well-kno'wn varieties, as the 
Mazzard cherry, the Mussel or Horse plum, and the Paradise 
apple, &c., and make tolerable stocks, but are in measure de- 
fective in root power, being inclined to one.-sidedness (see Fig. 
88), and often also somewhat disposed to produce root suckers. 




204 



AMERICAN HUME GARDEN. 



SEEDLING STOCKS. 
Fig. 89. 





a. Seedling stock of one year's growth, shortened and ready for transplanting. 

b. A well-rooted seedling stock, suitable for cleft-grafting, with its third year's growth, 

having been once transplanted. 

All stocks for grafting or budding should be raised from 
seed. 

The various fruit-seeds desired for producing stocks should 
be collected from healthy trees in their season, and, instead of 
being stored diy, as garden-seeds, should be mixed with earth, 
and kept either in a cellar or out of doors, the latter being 
preferable where it can be done with safety. The housewife's 
practice of placing peach-pits under a flat stone in the fall is 
perfect so far as relates to the fulfillment of the conditions nec- 
essary or desirable to the healthful preservation of all fruit- 
seeds through the winter. All tree-seeds may be advantage- 
ously sown in the fall if they can be secured from vermin, 
unless for special reasons it is preferred to keep them until 
spring. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 205 

In the case of apples and pears it is better to obtain seed for 
raising stocks from the more hardy inferior varieties than from 
choice kinds. Pear seedlings, being liable to injury from the 
first winter's cold, should either be covered with earth in the 
fall, or taken up and kept in a cellar, and set out again in spring, 
in which case they may be multiplied by setting out separately 
the pieces of roots obtained in shortening. Fig. 89 a, allowing 
their upper ends just to appear above the surface, and settling 
the earth to them firmly, and very thinly mulching them. 

Cherries also may be raised from the common black or Maz- 
zard, or the honey cherry. 

Plums which are to be used as stocks may be of any kinds 
that have a moderately free growth. The plum is often used 
in unfavorable soils and climates as a stock for the peach as 
well as for the apricot and plum, and in our more favorable lo- 
calities the plum and apricot may be safely and advantageous- 
ly worked upon the peach, at least if it be budded low, so that 
the whole of the stock may be covered when it is transplanted. 
At a short distance from the plum-tree referred to above, as 
upon a sucker stock, stand two others which were planted at 
the same time, some twelve years ago, one of them being bud- 
ded on a seedling plum stock, and the other upon peach. Both 
appear thoroughly and equally vigorous. The peach as a 
stock for the plum would therefore seem worthy of careful and 
repeated trial. 

Peach stocks, whether for plum or peach propagation, should 
not be raised from pits of unhealthy fruit, but from trees that 
are not in any way diseased, obtained either by careful selec- 
tion in your own locality, or from regions not yet invaded by 
the prevailing maladies of the peach-tree. As these are usual- 
ly budded in the seed-row, it might be well to start the pits in 
the spring before planting them, ^nd nip the young tap-root 
an inch or two. See page 365. The bitter almond, raised in 
the same manner, is sometimes used as a stock for the peach, 
particularly by the French, being supposed to render it more 
fruitful, probably by slightly dwarfing it. All other seedling 
stocks should be transplanted at one, or, at the most, two years 
old, the roots being shortened to four or six inches, and the 



i200 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

tops cut bax3k in proportion (Fig. 89 a). If their multiplica- 
tion is desired, they may be treated as above directed for seed- 
ling pears, and, being assorted into their several sizes, they 
may be set in the home nursery, or at once where they are in- 
tended to stand permanently, to be grafted or budded after 
they have made one or two seasons' additional growth ; but in 
general, for home use, it is better to plant only the main stock, 
properly shortened and trimmed, allowing this to attain a di- 
ameter of from a half to three quarters of an inch, or a little 
more, before grafting it (see Fig. 89 h). From such stocks, with 
proper after-treatment, you may expect a growth of five, six, or 
eight feet the first season from the graft or bud. 

STOCKS FOR WEAK OR IRREGULAR GROWERS. 

There arc varieties of almost every kind of fruit, which, 
though valuable, do not grow vigorously, and such it is always 
desirable to graft upon strong growing stocks at the height at 
which it is intended to form the head. 

There are also certain kinds, particularly of plums and pears, 
that have an irregular habit of growth, not making good stems 
for themselves, yet requiring strong stocks. These, when seed- 
lings of sufficient strength can not be procured, are provided 
for by grafting a strong, upright-growing, cultivated variety 
upon a common stock near the ground, as above directed, upon 
which, when it has attained the desired height, the irregular 
grower is grafted. This process is known as .double, or, more 
properly, "intermediary" grafting, and is also sometimes 
adopted in raising dwarfed pears by first grafting a familiar 
variety upon the quince, and regrafting this with a kind that 
would not grow if grafted directly upon that stock. 

DWARFING STOCKS. 
For special purposes, particularly to enable amatem's to en- 
large their collection of varieties of fruit upon a limited space, 
and to hasten the period of fruiting, strong growing varieties 
of fruit-trees, or those kinds which, though vigorous, are nat- 
urally slow in attaining fruitful maturity, are grafted or bud- 
ded upon certain .stocks of comparatively diminutive growth. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



2U7 



by which they are dwarfed, and a tendency to earlier, and, in 
some cases, to superior fruiting is induced ; or rather, perhaps, 
we should say that, in climates unsuited to certain varieties, 
when grown upon strong seedling stocks, dwarfing affords us 
aid by hastening the maturity of the fruit. 

The illustration of this with which we are most familiar is 
that of the pear worked upon the Angers and other free-grow- 
ing varieties of quince stock. It is also sometimes grafted 
upon the mountain ash or the hawthorn, but the quince stock 
is the best and most generally reliable. 

For dwai-fing the apple, small growing varieties, known as 
the Doucain and Paradise stocks, are used. 

Plums are sometimes, but rarely, grafted for this purpose 
upon the smaller varieties of plum, the damson, the winter 
damson or bullace, and the sloe, etc. 

With the same view, peaches are sometimes budded on the 
small, double-flowering almond, to be fruited in pots. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Implements for Pruning, Budding, and Grafting. 
IMPLEMENTS FOR PRUNING, BUDDING, GRAFTING, &c. 

Fig. 90. 




<-. Hatchet. 

(I. Pruning Chisel. 



208 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

The hammer, Fig. 90 a, is of the common form, with steel 
face and chiws. 

The half axe, Fig. 90 h, and hatchet. Fig 90 c, for use among 
trees and shrubs, are of the forms in common use, and may be 
heavier or lighter, to suit the arm that is to work with them. 

The pruning chisel may be either a common socket chisel 
of the desired width, or it may be made with a hooked knife 
attached for cutting small sprouts from the limbs, as shown 
above, Fig. 90 d. The handle should be of light but stiff wood, 
and may be eight or ten feet long, or may be formed of joints, 
so as to vary the length. It will cut ojBT a pretty smart branch 
by the mere force of the hand, and still larger ones by the use 
of a mallet to drive it. 

Fig. 91. 





a. Pruning Saw. h. Drawing-knife. 

The pruning saw, called also " grafting saw" (Fig. 91 a), 
should be eighteen or twenty inches long in the blade, and a 
little narrower and stiffer than an ordinary carpenter's saw, 
with a pretty wide set, to give it clear way through the green 
wood. 

The drawing-knife. Fig. 91 &, which should always be used 
after the saw, unless the pruning-knife is made to serve the 
purpose, may be a common small straight di-awing-knife, but 
will be found more convenient for its purposes if made with a 
curved edge, as shown in the figm'e. 

Pi„ 9;^ The tree scraper, Fig. 91 c, is used for 

dressing off the dead bark, moss, &c., from 
the bodies and large limbs of trees. It is 
the common ship scraper, furnished with a 
long handle, and applied to use in the or- 
111"'''" chard. A worn-out goose-necked garden 

"^ hoe may be used instead, the blade being 

c. Tree Pcraper. ^ . , i • i i i 

set out to a right angle with the neck, so 
that it will scrape, and not cut. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



209 



SHEARS, &C. 

Fig. 93. 






a. dressing Shears. 

b. Large Pruning Shears. 

c. Medium Pruning Shears. 



d. Small Pruning Shears. 

e. Grape Scissors. 

/. Flower or Seed Scissors, 




The dressing shears, Fig. 92 a, are large and strongly-made 
shears, of various sizes and fashions, with equal blades and di- 
verging wooden handles, used chiefly for dressing box edging, 
and occasionally shrubbery. They are also sometimes used for 
dressing live fences, and on this account are also called hedge 
shears. 

The pruning shears. Fig. 92 b, are strongly-made scissors, 
with one very short blade, and a beak or finger, with handles 



2H) AMERKIAN HOME (JARDEN. 

long enough to give 8o much power tliat a branch oi- tree of an 
ineli in diajneter Triny Ix; <!asi]y cut ofi" with them. 

'J'he mcdiurii h\'/.v, F\^. t)2 r;, are intended for ordinary prun- 
ing. They are of the beHt and siirifdest construction, the han- 
dles opening by a Htout Hpring, and being held together, when 
not in UHc, by a Hmall Hniooth wire loop. 

^i'hc HTriidl(!r size (I^'ig. **2 (I) niiiy b(! \m'A with or without a 
H[)ring, and are intende<l lor light shrub and flower pruning. 

Those of the larger sizes arc usually made with a sliding 
joint or niovMbh; VA'Aitrv,, to give snioothn(!SS to the cut, and are 
Honi('tini(!S fix(;d u|K)n a pole, with a, ro[)e attached to the lever 
ha,ndl(!, for pruning high trees or cutting scions. 

^riic ))ea,k or finger of pruning shears is comrnordy made of 
<!(jUii,l thickness throughout, with its upper edge almost square, 
and being always h(;ld outside of the cut, it prevents the yield- 
ing of the branch, and thus ibrms a strong brace against the 
;ietion of the blade. If regularly beveled from back to edge, 
leiiviiig tli(; liitter from oik; sixtecuith to one eighth of an inch 
in thickness, thei'e would be no loss of strength, with a great 
Having of power, and conse(pient relief to the hand in working. 

They are all efficient instruments in pruning, ])eing especial- 
ly convenient and us(!ful for shortening and thirniing thorny 
shi'iibs, and in all loiigli trimming. An expert with the prun- 
ing knife will seldom be inclined to use the shears; their cut 
is not HO clean as that of a good knife, and when they Jirc at all 
dull theni is a degree of bruising in the opcTation ; but they 
are Siiter in inex[H!ri(!nee(l hands, since, in all ordinaiy work, it 
is only necessary to have strong fingers, and to understand that 
th(( blad(v and not the beak, must bo held next to the tree in 
<;utling off its branch, and tin; gnn-iu^st hand can use the shears. 

The grape s(;isHors, Fig. 1)2 c, arc connnon small sha,rp-])oint- 
ed and rather long-bhuled scissors, used for thinning the 
gra})es when crowding upon their bunches, and for vaiious 
other deliciit(! ojxTations of the fan(\y cultivator. 

The seed or flower scissors, Fig. 1)2/, combine the operations 
of cutting and holding. They are small round-pointed scis- 
sors, with one ])ro)H'r ])huh (a), along the outer edge of which 
runs a small bar or jtliitc {!>), against which the straight, keen- 



AMERICAN' HOMP} (JAKDEN. 211 

angled l)Otik or finger (c) catehes, and presses the stem of tlie 
head or hud when cut off', Tliey are convenient in gathering 
flowers that liave to be reached after, or the seeds of Phlox 
Drurnrnondii, and other plants where there is danger that any 
jar in plucking one head may scatter the see<ls of others. 

THE J'RL'IT-GATHEIiEn. 

Fig. 93. Tj^g fruit-gatherer is an instrument for securing the 
few extra-fine fruit which arc often found upon the ex- 
tremities of limbs, out of the reach of ordinary hand- 
picking. There are several kinds, but the accompany- 
ing figure shows one of simple form, which any tin- 
worker can make, and which, when rigged upon a sin- 
gle or jointed fx^le, with a little cotton batt or other 
soft nuitcrial in it, will gather the scattered fruit (^jiick- 
ly and safely. 

BUDDING KNIFE, 




^■■^_- X^ 




The budding knife lias a flat bone handle, which is usually 
made with a rounded end, and the blade is often straight-edged 
and sharp point(;d. 'i'he rounded, recurved blade and the 
Sf|uare-ended handle, with the outer conier not tfx) sluirp, and 
a small, smfjoth, dull notch in the inner one, to aid, if needful, 
in pressing the bud downward beneath the bark, will be found 
V(;ry sufjcrior in actusd of>erations, especially where rapid Avork 
is desired (Fig. 04 a). The smaller and still more obtuse- 
formed blade. Fig. \)\ h, is also Avell adapted ; this generally 
has a common round handle, with a flat lx>ne end inserte<l, 

riiUNING KXIFi:, 
The primer is a strongly- rf- rr,. 

made knife, clasp or other- 
wise, the blijulc of which is ^- 
usually made alx^ut an inch 



212 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



broad, and from two and a half to three inches long. The edge 
should have a fair sweeping inward curve from heel to point, 
as shown in the figure (95). The handle, if small or twisted, 
is apt to cramp or strain the hand by continuous use ; it should 
therefore be large, and bent and set so as to lie fair in the 
hand, and balance. As these knives are commonly made, the 
point is too much hooked, so that they almost invariably snap, 
and have to be ground up again, Avhich generally spoils the 
knife for some of its special and most delicate uses, though it 
converts it into an excellent splitter or stock knife. 



STOCK KNIFE. 
Fig. 06. 




This is a short, strong knife, intended for splitting stocks 
of ordinary size and opening the cleft while inserting the 
graft, thus saving the edge of the grafter. It may also be 
used instead of the pruner for heading down stocks. 



GRAFTING KNIFE. 

Fig. 97. 




The grafter, or, more properly, the graft-cutter, should have 
a rather long, light blade, its point being set a little forward, 
but with a perfectly straight edge. 

If it is used both for cutting the grafts and splitting the 
stocks it will require to be rather stronger, and must be care- 
fully handled, using it near the point for cutting and the heel 
for splitting. 

It is used for cutting the various graft wedges in all the 
modes of grafting, and its edge should be kept clear and keen 
as a razor. 



AMERICAN HOME CARDEN. 213 

Grafting may be well performed with any good straight- 
edged knife, but it is better to have tAvo, the one for cutting 
the graft, which may be light, and must be kept as thor- 
oughly sharpened as a razor or surgical instrument ; the other, 
for splitting the stock, should be stout, and its edge kept smooth 
and in good order. When large stocks are split it is done 
with the grafting tool (Fig. 99), the edge of which should also 
be kept in first-rate order. 

When cleft-grafting is to be performed on a lai^ge number 
of moderate-sized stocks before planting, a simple machine 
knife may be used for splitting them, the stock being held 
with the left hand in a groove immediately below the knife, 
the lever handle of which is raised by a spring, and brought 
down by pressure of the hand or foot, and the stock split pre- 
cisely to the extent desired, the knife, which is curved back- 
ward, entering the side of the stock gradually from heel to 
point, so that the split is almost always smooth. 

See also Stock Splitter, Fig, 100, p. 215. 

There is also a machine for cutting the "graft-wedge ready 
for insertion, which does its work with rapidity and neatness. 
It is doubtful, however, whether its uniformity of cut may not 
seriously interfere Avith that judicious adaptation of the wedge 
to the split which enables us to match the bark of graft and 
stock throughout almost or quite the whole length of the cut, 
in which, in connection with the keeping a perfectly smooth, 
keen edge upon your knife, and the neat, " slick," expert use 
of it in making the various cuts, lies the whole secret of suc- 
cess in grafting. 

GRAFTING STILETTO. 

Fig. 




The stiletto. Fig. 98, is a small instrument a few inches 
long and about a quarter of an inch in diameter, the lower end 
of which is fashioned as a rather long, tapering, half-round 
wedge, corresponding in form, and, as near as may be, in size 



214 



AMERICAN HOME (JAIIDE.V. 



■\vitli lli(! ;:!;r;ift-w(!(l(^c to be iiiscrte<l in the opening which it 
prejKires. It is intended exclusively for crown <i;r;ii'tin<^, which 
,sec, and may l)e of steel, or bone, or hard wood ; or may be 
made on the spur of the occasion from a green scion. It may 
have a pocket-case, or sini[)ly a loop ))y which it may be hung 
upon a twig or button. A goldsmith's burnisher of suitable 
size, costing twenty-five to fifty cents, may be used as a sub- 
stitute if desired. 



(;ilAETING TOOL 

I'iL'. '.)'.». 




The grafting tool, as shown in Fig. 1)9, is formed of a small 
bar of steel from twelve to fifteen inches long, half an inch 
witle, and lather over a quarter of an inch thick, one end being 
drawn so as to make it a little lighter than the other. A 
short wedge is foi'uied upon each end for use in opening the 
cleft while inserting the graft ; that at the heavier end is ab- 
ru})tly bent backward at a right angle to the knife, the lighter 
end being curved in the opposite direction sufficiently to allow 
of the tool being hung over a branch by it. The knife, which 
is ibrmed simply by forging out the bar near its heavy end to 
about two inches width, may bo made hunger or smaller, but 
foui- inches may be regarded as a good size, the edge having a 
curve eipuil to the sweep of an eight-inch circle. It should 
be i()rged thicker at the middle than the ends, making both its 
sides slightly and equally convex. The back of it should be 
beveled to about half of its full thickness, so that its battered 
edges, after much use, may not tear the crown of the stock 
when driven into it. 

This is a perfectly satisfactory instrument for use among 
large stocks and limbs, if they arc split at all, but for such 
the simpler ])rocess of crown grafting Avith the use of the sti- 
letto is greatly preferable. See l)age 2311 



AMERICAN IIOMK UARDKN. 215 

STOCK SPLITTER. 
Fig. 100. 




The stock splitter, Firr. 100, is formed of ii stout woo<lcn 
handle and grooved head-piece (a), the latter either a simple 
extension of the former or set at a more or less ohtuse angle to 
it, comhined upon an iron pivot with an iron handle of the 
same length, terminated by a knife of pretty thin steel (b), 
Avhieh works directly toward, but does not touch the inner face 
of the groove. 

The edge of the knife should be gradually curved backward, 
and perhaps the addition of a small slide in the joint would 
farther im|)rove it. In working this implement the wooden 
groove is placed against the back of the stock so far down as 
the operator may desire to extend the cut, and the cleft is 
made in an instant by pressure upon the outer end of the iron 
handle. It is sometimes used at tin; same time for heading 
down the stocks, but this is of doubtful expediency, in view of 
the importance of keeping its edge in fine order. 

LABELS. 
BAND LAIJEI.S. 
Labels may be made with smsdl pieces of pine, about one 
third of an inch thick, or like the thick end oi' n good shingle. 
A small block of straight-grained pine, four inches sfjuare and 
an inch thick, will make a dozen of them ; and if a small hole 
be first bored through it, about half an inch from the end, each 
label, as it is split oft', will be ready for wiring (101 a) ; or, if 
preferred, the boring may be omitted, and each may ))e notch- 
ed and the wire twisted round it (101 b). These should be 
smoothed at least on one side, and painted with white lead. 
Upon this the name or number should be written legibly with 



216 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 101. 





a rather soft pencil, and the label be then fostened to the tree 
with copper wire, about No. 18, or lead wire of a little larger 
size, being careful not to set the wire tightly upon the tree, 
but making allowance for growth. 

Metallic labels may be made of zinc, or lead, or tin, which 
may be punched and wired to the tree, as 101 c. If zinc is 
used, it may be written on with the following mixtm*e : Take 
two drachms of sal ammoniac, two drachms of verdigris, one 
drachm of lampblack, and two and a half ounces of water ; mix 
carefully in a mortar with a small portion of the water, then 
add the rest and bottle it. Keep it well corked and sealed 
when not wanted, and shake it well before using it. Whatever 
metal is used, however, it is much better to stamp the name 
or number upon it with a punch. A set of letters and num- 
bers, of steel, may be bought for three or four dollars, which 
will last a lifetime ; or cast brass, or pot metal, or iron letters 
and numbers, which will punch the labels almost as well, may 
be obtained at a cheaper rate. If lead, or even tin, is used, 
common cast-off type from the printers will punch it satisfac- 
torily, though for the latter brass or steel types are better. 

A single line drawn upon the metal will enable any one to 
keep the letters in a proper position, and Avhen finished, the 
strip can be flattened again with a wooden mallet or block. 
Perhaps the best labels for growing or large trees may be made 
with strips of tin or lead, the latter being best on the whole, 
from half an inch to two inches wide, and of any necessary 
length, upon one end of which the name is to be punched as 
above directed, and the other, being passed around the tree as 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



217 



a band, and folded once over, will form a slack loop, in which 
the band will slip easily with the enlarging growth of the tree 
(101 d) ; or it may be made as a simple band or bracelet (as 
101 e), with the ends overlapping or not, at discretion. Its 
own strength will keep it in place, and it can be read even 
when placed at a considerable height. All danger from cut- 
ting in will thus be avoided, and a permanent and legible label 
be secured. 

For small plants or shnibs, 101/ may be used, being punch- 
ed with smaller letters, or, if made of zinc, wi'itten upon, and 
coiled as 101 d e / or it may be used as a stake label, instead 
of 102 a, for pot plants or flower-plots in the garden, &c. 

All labels should be examined annually, and, if necessary, 
renewed or freshly painted. For trees and shrubs, however, 
labels alone ought not to be depended on, but eveiy cultivator 
of these should prepare in a book diagrams of his several plots 
or orchai'ds, upon which the position and name of each tree 
must be designated cleai'ly and with precision. 

STAKE LABELS. 

Stake labels may be made of metal, as 101/, or of strips of 
rig. 102. ^ shingle for small ai-ticles, pots, 

&;c. (102 «), and of locust, or 

chestnut, or cedar, or cypress, 

~7| W ^81 ' %■ ^^' P^tch pine, for lai'ger ones 
-^^ \- rm \ 'iaf (102 h). These should be 

about an inch and a half 
square, and full two feet long, 
smoothed, and painted, and 
wTitten on, as above directed, 
or marked by bui'ning in with 
a branding-iron, or numbered 
with the Roman numerals, cut 
in with a knife or sawn across 
the face of the tallv, making 
a notch on one corner, or any other mark you may devise, to 
stand for ten, and others for fifty and one hundi'ed, if necessa- 
ry. Stake labels are sometimes made of brick or potters' clay ; 

K 




218 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

they are simply tapering bricks of divers fashions and sizes, of 
which one end is formed as a tablet, upon which the name or 
number is imprinted while soft, or painted on, and afterward 
properly glazed and burned hard, Fig. 102 c, d. 

TIES. 
Strips of the ordinary Russian bass mat, common in om* fur- 
niture stores, though generally called " garden" mats, or sim- 
ilar strips of the inner bark of our own bass-wood-tree, or of 
the willow, or the leather-wood, Dirca, or the paper mulberry, 
or of well-kept corn- husk, or coarse yarn, or cheap cotton twine, 
or candle-wick, or strips of rag, may all be used in various 
ways as ties, and some of them should be kept at hand for the 
purpose. But for securing trees when staked, straw bands are 
used. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Nature of Budding. — Bud Scions. — Stocks for, and Modes and Times of 
Budding. — After-treatment, &c. 

BUDDING. 

Budding is a process suited, with few exceptions, to all 
kinds of trees and shrubs, and should be generally preferred to 
grafting for its simplicity and ease. 

The knives for this purpose, figured page 211, are the only 
forms really suitable for expert and rapid work, but the opera- 
tion may be performed with a common pen or pocket knife. 

Budding and grafting, though appearing somewhat difficult 
in description, Avhich is necessarily prolix, are really very sim- 
ple operations, which any whittling boy or smart girl may per- 
form, and succeed on the very first trial ; and, with the facili- 
ties for the cheap and rapid transmission of scions or grafts 
afforded by our present mail rates, the author has pleasm'e in 
anticipating that many young persons will avail themselves of 
the instructions here given, and plant and bud or graft choice 
fruits for coming years. 

As a matter of curiosity, either grafting or budding may be 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 219 

successfully, though with some difficulty, perfonned with the 
buds inverted, the wood cells consisting of even cylindrical 
tubes, through which the circulation will pass in either direc- 
tion. 

Budding is often called inoculating, but this name seems to 
have originated in a misconception. Inoculation is, in medical 
practice, the introduction of a virus into the circulation, which 
spreads through it. But budding and grafting are the simple 
planting of a bud or branch cutting in circumstances favora- 
ble to its rapid growth and development as a tree. Nothing 
from it, so far as we know, permeates the system and affects 
the character of the stock ; nor does it receive any appreciable 
modification in its own essential characteristics from the stock ; 
but uniting with it, or living as a parasite upon it, and deriv- 
ing its noui'ishment through it, its own inherent force is put 
forth in the formation of its system of stem, branches, and 
fruit, the stock also retaining for itself the same distinct indi- 
viduality, each preserving in undiminished force its peculiar 
local powers of appropriate secretion and organization, all 
growth from below the junction being constantly throughout 
the life of the tree " natural," or of the stock, and all above 
the junction partaking with equal constancy of the nature of 
the graft. There is, therefore, no analogy between inoculation 
and budding, and we retain the latter term. Contrary to the 
above views, it has been supposed by some that late fruits are 
materially affected in their period of maturing by being bud- 
ded or grafted on stocks of early kinds ; but if this were so, of 
which I have failed to find proof, the converse ought also to be 
true, and our early fruits become belated by grafting upon 
stocks of later varieties ; but almost all apple stocks are raised 
from kinds comparatively late. Upon these our earliest apple 
— the little white Early May — has been continuously worked 
for centuries, and upon this theory it is inconceivable that it 
should have retained its distinctive character. 

It may, perhaps, be regarded as certain that, in general, the 
stock affects the graft only in two ways : first, by its own hard- 
iness and durability, seeming, under proper conditions, contin- 
uance to the graft inserted in it ; and, second, by the character 



220 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



of its growth. If this equal or exceed the graft in freedom, 
healthful vigor of growth in the tree is secured ; if it fall much 
short of the freedom of the graft growth, diseased or morbid 
action is superinduced, and hence the dwarfing, premature 
fruiting, and limitation of life. 



k 



BUD SCION AND BUDS. 

Fig. 103. a. Bud scion trimmed for use, and inverted 

as it must be lield in cutting out the 
I' ^^ /a\ 6 Ac buds. 

6. The bud as cut from the inverted scion, 

with the wood in. 
c. The bud turned to its natural direction, 
witli the wood taken out. 

The young shoot from which buds 
, , , . and grafts are cut is called a scion, and 
^ ' sometimes the graft itself is improper- 
ly so called. The bud scion is prepared by trimming off 
its leaves so far as the buds are full and ripe for use, cut- 
ting each leaf stem a quarter or half an inch from the 
bud, cutting off the butt end of the scion upon Avliich the 
buds may not be plump, and rejecting at discretion four 
or six inches of its point, on which the buds, though 
plump, may not be ripened. 
The necessary bandages, which may be prepared from any 
of the materials named for ties, page 218, should be cut into 
lengths of from twelve to eighteen inches, and strung to a gir- 
dle or through a button-hole, so as to be conveniently out of 
the Avay until wanted. 

Taking the prepared scion in your left hand, loith its jMint 
toivard you (Fig. 103 a), hold it firmly between your thumb and 
the second joint of the middle finger, while the point of your 
extended fore-finger supports and steadies it precisely under- 
neath the bud which you intend to remove. 

With your budding-knife, perfectly keen, in your right hand, 
held firmly by the fingers as when sharpening a lead-pencil, 
with the right thumb laid, not under, but upon the scion, im- 
mediately against the point of the left thumb, stretch the hand 
until the knife rests flatly upon the scion, half an inch or a lit- 
tle more back of the bud ; then entering the edge, carefully and 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



221 



gradually, with a drawing and perfectly level cut, let it pass 
under the bud at a depth just sufficient to cut out the bud 
with its swelling, scarcely scaling the wood, and coming out 
gradually as it entered, half an inch or more above the point 
of the bud (Fig. 103 6). 

Sometimes the thin scale of wood is taken out from the bud, 
and the bark only inserted (Fig. 103 c), but this is entirely un- 
necessary, involving also some difficulty, and risk of spoiling the 
bud. If done at all, it should be performed by turning the bud 
into its natural direction, and holding it carefully between the 
points of the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, and, loos- 
ening the wood from the bark at the upper end with the point 
of your knife, pass the blade under it, and holding the thin 
piece of wood firmly by pressing your thumb upon it on the 
knife, lift it carefully from its place with a slightly turning 
or rolling motion from one side, and you will probably effect 
its removal without drawing out the germ of the future tree, 
which is the danger to be apprehended, and 
which will almost certainly occur if you begin 
the removal of the wood at the wrong end. 

STOCKS SUITABLE FOR BUDDING. 
Stocks for budding should not, at the larg- 
est, be more than three fourths of an inch di- 
ameter, nor smaller than, at the least, twice 
the thickness of the scion from which the bud 
is taken. A stock is prepared for budding by 
trimming off all leaves and branches from near 
the point at which the bud is to be inserted, 
and generally all below this point, though this 
last is not essential miless the lower growth bo 
strong. Fig. 104. 



Fig. 104 




STOCKS PREPARED AND BUDDED, 

Having cut out the bud as above directed, hold it for a mo- 
ment edgewise between your lips, and with your knife, held 
lightly by your thumb and finger points, make a cross cut just 
in the clear spot chosen for inserting the bud, through the 



222 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 105. 






a. The stock prepared for recoiving the bud. 

6. The stock, with tlio hud inserted and sliortened. 

c. The stock, witli tlic bud inserted and bound. 

bark, about half an inch or less long ; then, turning your knife 
point downward, with your I'ight fore-finger pressing upon the 
back of the blade, the handle being held firmly between the 
thumb and middle finger, make a straight, clean slit from an 
inch below upward to the cross cut, forming a T. When at the 
cross cut, and before withdrawing the knife, rack it once from 
side to side, so as with the edge to loosen and slightly open 
the bark at that point (Fig. 105 o) ; quickly turning the knife 
handle down, and holding it as a pen is held in writing, pass 
the square corner of the bone handle carefully under each edge 
of the slit, opening it just enough to admit the bud, and no 
more ; then, having inserted this, slip it down toward the bot- 
tom of the slit so far as to make it sit firmly in its place, using 
for this purpose either the finger laid upon the piece of leaf- 
stem and the bud, or the dull notch intended for that purpose at 
the opposite comer of the handle (see p. 211). If the upper 
end of the bark of the bud extend at all above the cross cut, 
take it off by passing the knife once more along the cross line, 
so that it will set in nicely (Fig. 105 b). Then tie it carefully 
and tightly, beginning ut the bottom, and taking special care 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 22:j 

that in starting to wrap it you do not also press the bud upward 
out of place, and as you proceed in the binding, use a gentle 
pressure upon it to make it fit its place, leaving only the short 
leaf-stem and point of the bud uncovered by the bandage (Fig. 
105 e). Or two bands may be used, beginning with one im- 
mediately above the bud, and wrapping upward, and the other 
just below and on the swell of the bud, and winding downward, 
the latter only being loosened or removed at the first after- 
dressing of the bud. This, however, like too early budding, is 
apt to start the young bud in the fall, which, when occurring 
from any cause, is injurious, increasing the labor of tending, 
generally resulting in the production of a feebler growth than 
if the bud had lain dormant until spring, and almost uniformly 
rendering the tree more or less unsightly at the point of junc- 
tion of the bud and stock. 

ANNULAR BUDDING. 

Fig. 106. Annular Budding is performed by cut- 

ting, or rather peeling, a ring of bark about 
half an inch wide from the stock (Fig. 106 
a), and a corresponding ring, containing a 
bud, from a scion of equal size, or a little 
larger (Fig. lOG h), and fitting the latter 
neatly in the place of the former, shorten- 
ing it if its girth be greater than necessa- 

fl. The stock prepared for ^ ^ • t • , pii ^ f i 

annular budding. ^y, and binding It caretully and firmly. 
h. The bud-ring prepared This modo of budding is peculiarly suited 

to fit tllC StOClc. ■, . 1-1 ••11 1 -I • 

to trees having thick, rigid bark, and is 
rarely used. 

TIME OP budding. 

All budding may be performed in the fall. Fruit-trees and 
some fancy forest trees are usually budded in July and Au- 
gust, beginning with pear and cherry, then plum, orange, rose, 
apple, and peach, the latter being sometimes postponed to 
September. The time, however, will vary with locality, it be- 
ing always advisable to bud as late as may be possible consist- 
ent with the easy and successful setting of the bud, so that 




li-ll 



\Mi;i!li'AN IIOMK <;.MII>KN. 



IK) growth iriny inkv. pliu-o boion; Hprin^. ( )ran^o-trc('S n-iid 
oilier ;^r('(Ui-li<)iiH(f plantM, 1)('iii<^ cnlculiiUid to ;:;n)W ri;^lit on un- 
der proteetioii, iinr excej)Liuus, and imiy bu budded in Hpring, or 
HUininer, or wiiiicr. 



AI'TKIt-TItKATiMKNT, 
I'iK. 1(17. 



/■n f 








a. 'I'lid liiiil imiti'il til till" Mtdck, mill llic l)iiiiilii);(i Icio^k'HciI niul n'liinvi'cl in diii' liiiic. 

//. A iir(<li'rl(Ml liiiil, tlio iHiiidiij^c^ lmvlnK<'iil di'iply liilii llic Hliick, caUHliig imniitiiral oil- 

lai'Hrmi'iil iiliinc niid IicIhh, wllli ii (.jriMVlli nl' Hli'iii-HiirkiTn. 
c. Thn liiid ill npiliiK, llii' Htoi'k ciil dinvii iilimil. I'lHir liirliiw iibovu U, and nil the imtiiral 

or Htock IiuiIh I't'iiiovcd. 
(I. 'I'liii liud KiMwliiK, and Hod up to Uii> uliaiik id' Hi.' Hlock. 
c. 'I'lio liml in Hpriiif^, llio ntoc^k ludiin cut at mioo ilnwii tci (ho pohit of tlio Imd. 
./'. 'I'ho Imd t.;i'o\vliiK iiadii'ally upright, but Hiakod (o Hocurti It ai^iliiHt daiit^cr of injury in 

Itrt oiirlv Hlnf;-,'.-<. 

Ill about Iwo weeks after tlie biiddiu<i; you may loosen the 
Imndago, imd before winter, or wbenever it seems to be cutting 



AMERTf!AN IIOMK fJAItDKN. 'I2i) 

into i\u) stock, remove it (;ntirely, when llic hud will l)c roiiiid 
firmly united to tlu; Htoek, Imt showing; no wi/^ns ol' inini('(li;i,t<^ 
;^n)wtli, Ki<^. 107 (i. If, liowev(;r, tlu; hiindii^e he left witliout 
relief, it will cut into the stock, sometimes destroying the bud, 
iind f'orcinf^ a fall ;^owth of stem-suckers, and the muIti[)lioii- 
tion of Huck(!r-biidH nt the collar of tlu; stock, Fi^. 107 />. 

Early in the sprin<^ remove all natural or Hto('l<-j)uds, and 
cni oft' the head of the st(K;k iil)Out four inches above the bud, 
¥ifr. 107 c. When the latter has started to grow four or six 
inches, draw it gently u[)right, nearly touching this sliank,ari(l 
tie it carefully, Kig. 107 d. 

Keep the stock free from all young natural slioots through- 
out the summer, and if the bud grows at all thriftily, cut oft' 
the shank with a, sharp knife about tlu; end of dune, finishing 
it Avilh a, downward slof)e from the back of the bud. 

As there is some diftlculty in cutting away the shank at this 
time without injury to the young growth of the })ud, it maybe 
avoided by cutting tlx; head of the stock at once down fo tb(! 
bud hefon; it starts to grow, as in T'ig. 107 c, arid th(! yning 
shoot from the bud will naturally grow upright. Fig. 107,/'. 
As a, mcsasure of def(!ns(! against f)OSsihl(! injury, tlu; to[) of th(! 
stock which is cut oft' may be stuck lirnily dovvri ]ty tin; side 
of the bud, which, while young, may be tied up to it as a stake, 
Fig. 107/. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Grafting. — Grafting large Trcos, &c. — ViiriouH ModcH and TimcH of Graft- 
ing. — Aft(;r-I,n'.iitm(;nt,. 

(> RAFTING. 

For figures and descriptions of grafting and budding knives, 
see pages 211--2i:'> ; and for ties, [)age 218. 

Around every countr*y home, how(!ver humble, tluTc; should 
always be found some natural stocks of various kinds, such as 
have been described pages 204 and 205, ready for budding or 
grafting whenever scions of valuable fruit may be obtairuid. If 
they are not used for the propagation of new varieties, tlu-y 

K 2 



226 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



will serve for valuable common kinds, care being taken to graft 
tliem before they become very large, although even then they 
may be grafted as shown below. 



LARGE TREES. 
Fig. 108. 



A / ' 





A. Large tree to be grafted by installments, viz : 
o, a, a, a. To be grafted the first year. 

6, b. To be grafted the second year. 

c, c, c. To be grafted the third year ; and any that have failed to grow may also be re- 
graftcd. 

B. A large tree, the limbs of which have been cut off to induce a growth of sprouts for 
budding or grafting. 

Whenever it is discovered that fruit-trees are not such kinds 
as we would desire, or are of such kinds as do not suit om- par- 
ticular locality, they should be immediately regrafted, substi- 
tuting a variety of known character and success. Little or no 
time will be lost in the maturing of the tree for full bearing if 
this be done with promptitude. If, however, the tree has at- 
tained considerable size, let it be grafted by installments, be- 
ginning near the top, and grafting about one third of it per 
year. See Fig. 108 A. 

Sometimes such a tree has all its limbs cut off at once within 
a foot or two of the trunk, for the purpose of inducing a young 
growth of sprouts that may be more easily grafted or budded ; 
and if the tree be comparatively young and vigorous, it may 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



227 



bear this treatment and make a full head of young sprouts, as 
Fig, 108 B. But there is much risk of killing the tree if it 
be old or feeble ; the ends of the limbs seldom heal so well as 
if they had been crown grafted (see page 233), and even after 
buds or grafts have taken in such a tree, if at all neglected, 
they are apt to be overgrown and destroyed by the sprouts. 

But in all large tree grafting it is highly important to give 
careful after-treatment, as directed page 240. 



PREPARATION OF GRAFTS. 
Fig. 109. 




a. Graft Scion. 



h. Grafts cut to proper length. 



Scions for making grafts are taken from the young shoots of 
the previous year's growth, rejecting the older wood, as well 
as any blossom-buds that may have formed upon the younger ; 
these are known by their round fullness, and are sometimes 
chosen to gratify a fancy for producing a fruit from the graft 
of bud the first year ; but the growth is always injured, and the 
tree' sometimes lost by the operation, which thus becomes too 
expensive. They should be taken from the tree before the ap- 
proach of spring, and either buried in sand or earth, or placed 
butts downward in a small pit or grave on the north side of a 
fence or building, and having sufficient straw packed over 
them and alongside them to keep them from diying out or be- 
coming dirty, except the butts, which, resting upon the bot- 
tom, will obtain sufficient moisture to keep them fresh. When 
taken out for use, let them be washed clean and cut up into 



228 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



grafts of four or six buds each in length. These are usually 
can'ied in a pouch, or bag, or apron tucked up by the comers, 
worn for this purpose while grafting, which, when two knives 
are used, serves also to carry the one while the other is in the 
hand. 

Scions, or grafts in their proper lengths, as above, may be 
cut at any time from late fall through winter, and kept for 
weeks, or even months, simply wrapped in paper ; or if sealed 
at the ends with shellac or collodion, and the wrapper also 
made air-tight, so much the better, particularly if it is intend- 
ed to transport them through warm latitudes. 

They may also be sent by mail with the greatest ease, and 
if used as single-bud grafts (see next figure), each graft will 
furnish at least enough for four stocks. 



MODES OP GRAFTING, 

As budding is the planting of a bud cutting, so, in general, 
grafting is the planting of a branch cutting, the most marked 
distinction between them being that the bud scion is the 
growth of the current season, the graft 
scion of the season previous, and sin- 
gle-bud grafting links the two processes. 

SINGLE-BUD GRAFTING. 

Single-bud grafting may be prac- 
ticed Avith entire success by inserting 
buds from carefully-preserved graft sci- 
ons, in the manner directed for bud- 
ding, page 222, as early in the spring 
as the bark of the stock is found to run, 
in which case, however, the stock is cut 
down at once in one or other of the 
modes directed for budded stocks, page 
224, figures 107 c, e, and all natural 
a. The stock headed down, growth kept off, SO as to forcc an imme- 

with the graft bud inserted. ^. to tit o t 

6. The stock headed down diatc growth trom the bud-gratt. It 

pat^chroTtOTgucd*'''''"'^ ^^ '^ ^^y ^^^^ ^® performed before the bark 
c. The bud-graft. ruus by heading down the stock as for 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



229 



.cleft grafting, and cutting a small slice from the side an inch 
or so below the top (Fig. 110 h), and setting the bud on as a 
patch, fitting it Avitli exactness, and binding it with care ; or, 
the bud being cut out thick for the purpose, a small tongue 
may be made in each, so that they may be more conveniently 
bound together. In either mode, the after-treatment is pre- 
cisely that directed for growing buds, page 225. 



SIDE GRAFTING. 

In SIDE GRAFTING a slit is made Fig. iii. 

as for budding, and the graft, being 
cut from one side only into the form 
of a tapering, half-round wedge, is 
inserted and bound ; or it is bound 
on to a spot in the stock from which 
a slice of bark of corresponding size 
has been cut, merely fitting it on, 
as in single-bud patch grafting, or 
tongueing it, as in tongue grafting, 
but shorter, deferring the heading 
down or shortening of the stock un- 
til the graft knits, as in inarching. 

Side grafting is used chiefly for 

ornamental forest trees, upon which m budding, to receive the graft. 

it is supposed to succeed better than "■ '''"' ^'"''^ ^ ^''P''""^' '^'^'^■ 
other modes ; but it may be applied 
to all kinds of trees, and will some- 
times be found especially useful for balancing or giving sym- 
metry to a one-sided tree, replacing a lost branch, etc. 




a. The stock prepared, with a T, as 



round wedge, ready for insertion. 

c. The graft inserted, and ready to 
be bound and covered. 



SADDLE GRAFTING. 

In SADDLE GRAFTING the stock is cut wedge form (Fig. 
112 a), and the graft, being first split up the necessary dis- 
tance, is pared on the inside so as to form a cleft, of which 
each prong or lip is a tapered half-round (Fig. 112 h) ; these 
are neatly set across the stock at one side (Fig. 112 c), so that 
the inner barks of graft and stock fit together to the very end 
of the lips, and the whole is then carefully bound, as directed 



230 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



^"■g- 112. for buds, page 223. K con- 

venient, it is much better to 
have the gi'aft and stock of 
precisely equal diameter ; but, 
except for a fancy, it is hardly 
worth while to use this mode 
of gi'afting at all. 

There are innumerable other 
fancy modes, for which the 
French and Chinese are fa- 
mous, but which will readily 
suggest themselves to any one 
for pleasant amusement. 

The common and useful 
modes of grafting are three. 
Cleft grafting, which is per- 
formed upon stocks as small 
as three fourths of an inch in 
for binding. diameter, or limbs as large as 

a man's arm ; crown grafting, used only for large trees ; and 
tongue grafting, which is chiefly adapted to very small stocks. 




a. The stock prepared. 

b. The graft prepared. 

c. The graft fitted upon the stock and ready 



CLEFT GRAFTING. 
Fig. 113. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 231 

a. The stock cleft, and ready for the graft. 
h. The graft wedge prepared for insertion. 

c. The graft set, and ready for binding and covering. 

d. The graft set, and covered with rag and composition. 

e. The graft set, and covered with grafting mortar. 

In cleft grafting on stocks of small or medium size, the 
depth of the split will miavoidably vary, as they may prove 
of different strength and flexibility, some opening almost as 
freely as leather, and others stiffly and with difiiculty, the split 
extending far doAvn the stock ; in large trees or limbs this last 
is still more troublesome. 

To effect grafting by this mode rightly, let your stock be 
cut down to the desired point, in general as near the ground 
as convenient, with a slight slope backward from the side on 
which you intend to set the graft, where a jwrtion about the 
width of the gi-aft is cut level (Fig. 113 a,h). Split the stock 
by placing yovu' knife across the centre of this level spot, not 
perfectly square, but with the point bearing downward, so that 
as you press it the bark will be first cut a little ahead of the 
splitting, making also the split upon the outer side a little 
deeper than on the inner. 

Take youi' graft, a piece not more than five inches long, and 
hokhng it in your left hand as you would hold a pencil to 
sharpen it, with your knife firmly grasped, place the butt be- 
tween the blade and your right thumb, and with a steady draw- 
ing motion cut the one side of a wedge from an inch to two 
inches long ; then, tm'ning the graft, cut the other side in the 
same manner, being careful that the cut is perfectly free from 
raggedness or twist, that the inner edge is a little thinner than 
the outer, and that the length of yom- wedge is proportioned 
to the depth, to which, when inserted, it will open the cleft, so 
that they will as nearly as possible fit throughout (Fig. 113 h). 
Having your stock and graft ready, put the point of your split- 
ting knife into the crown of the cleft just at the pith, and 
strain it gently open while you adjust the outer edge of the 
graft -wedge to the bark of the stock, allowing the cleft to close 
upon it when in position. It is then ready for wrapping, 
Fig. 113 c. 



232 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CLEFT GRAFTING LARGE LIMBS OR TREES, 
rig. 114. 




^^: 




.^ryJf-'' 




a. Large stock cleft and wedged for the reception of the gi-afts. 

6. Large stock cleft grafted. 

c. Large stock cleft grafted, showing the excessive opening of the split, and the difficulty 
of fitting the graft wedge to the stock. 

ch Shouldered graft, with thin, tongue-like wedge, to obviate the difBculty of fitting the 
graft wedge to the stock. 
' e. Thin-wedged, shouldered graft inserted, with bud resting on both sides of the cleft. 

In cleft grafting large trees or branches, the body or limb is 
carefully sawed off and smoothed. It is then split with the 
curved knife of the grafting tool, which should be driven with 
repeated gentle blows with a light mallet rather than with a 
sudden stroke ; the Avedge end of the tool is then inserted at 
the centre to keep the cleft open, or a wooden wedge is used 
(Fig. 114 a), while a graft' is set on each side, the graft wedge 
being cut as above directed, except that it may be of even 
thickness on both edges, the cleft in this case being equally 
open on both sides (Fig. 114 h). 

Owing to the difficulty experienced in cleft gi-afting large 
trees on account of the depth to which the cleft in a strong 
body or limb will open (Fig. 114 c), the grafts for this pur- 
pose are sometimes shouldered — that is, cut square in on both 
sides at the upper end of the wedge, and, instead of a true 
wedge, a thin, wedge-like tongue is formed for insertion in the 
cleft (Fig. 114 ^?), Avhile the shouldering is carefully made just 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



233 



below a bud, so that its swell may rest upon the bark of the 
stock on both sides of the cleft, as shown Fig. 11-i e. 



CROWN GRAFTING, 
rig. 115. 






Jj.^^i 



a. Shouldered graft for crown grafting. 

b. A simple tapering half-round graft for crown grafting. 

c. A larga tree crown grafted and ready for covering. 

d. A large tree or limb crown grafted and covered with rag and composition. 

Crown grafting is altogether the simplest, easiest, and 
most desirable mode for grafting very large limbs or trees. In 
this process the head or limb is sawed off and smoothed as for 
cleft grafting, but, instead of splitting the stock, the grafting 
stiletto (Fig. 98, page 213) is carefully passed to the depth of 
one or two inches between the bark and wood, loosening the 
former, and slightly cracking it open, when the graft, which is 
cut only on one side as a tapering half-round wedge, of any 
desired length, and with or without a shoulder (Fig. 115 a, h), 
is firmly set in. 

Two, three, or even four such grafts may be set in a large 
limb (Fig. 115 c, d), their number, if they all live, hastening 
the covering of the stump of the limb, and when this is effected 
they can be cut away. If it happen that they grow so much 
the first season as to be in danger from winds, let them be 
slightly shortened in August, or braced ; but this will not often 
be necessaiy. 



234 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



TONGUE GRAFTING. 
Fig. 116. 





a. The stock prepared for tongue grafting. 

b. Tlie graft prepared for tongue grafting. 

c. The graft set, or graft and stock interlocked. 

d. The graft set and bound, ready for covering with grafting mortar or composition. 

e. A length of a one-year-old seedling root tongue grafted and wrapped with tow, 

and ready for planting. 

Tongue grafting is not so simple as cleft or crown graft- 
ing, neither is it any more successful, but it is much better 
suited to very young stocks, from a quarter to three quarters of 
an inch diameter, and is sometimes preferred on account of the 
greater delicacy of handling which it requires, and the prompt- 
itude and neatness with which it usually heals over. 

It is performed in the following manner: the stock being 
cut off to a clear spot with a sloping cut, a slice or tongue 
of wood is cut from one side, one or two inches long, to the 
depth of from one to two thirds the diameter of the stock to be 
grafted, leaving it, except in the greater length of the cut, 
much like the mouth-piece of a hunter's whistle. The knife 
is then tm-ned edge downward, and being gi-adually entered 
upon the face of this cut, about one third down, a thin tongue 
or apron, of less than an inch in length, is carefully formed, Fig. 
116 «. The graft is then cut of a length to match with the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



235 



cut upon the stock, in the manner directed for crown grafting, 
leaving it a clean, regularly tapering half-round wedge, with- 
out a shoulder. Being then turned in the hand, and held pre- 
cisely as directed for the bud-scion, page 222, and with just 
such a careftil movement as in cutting out the bud, it is 
tongued thinly, to correspond with the stock, Fig, 116 6, The 
two tongues or aprons are then interlocked, care being taken to 
fit the bark of the graft and stock accurately together. Fig. 
116 c. It must then be bound with more than usual care, with 
bass strips, or yarn, or rag. Fig, 116 d, and covered with graft- 
ing composition or mortar, as Fig, H3 d, e, p, 230. 

Tongue grafting is considerably practiced by nursery-men, 
who make three or four stocks of one seedling plant, cutting its 
tap-root into lengths, washing and grafting them during win- 
ter, and binding them with tow, Fig. IK) e. They are then 
placed in boxes Avith sand until spring, when they are set out 
with a dibber, in the manner prescribed for setting out cab- 
bage-plants, leaving one bud only above ground. 



INARCHING. 
Fig. IIT. 





a, h. Companion trees tongued. 

c. Stock iu pot upon a stand inarched with a branch, with 

Btay-bar. 

d. Companion trees inarched and bound, with strain-bar j^^^ 

Grafting by approach, or inarching, is a peculiar mode, in 
which we take a whole branch or small head instead of a sin- 




236 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

gle bud or a small portion of a slioot, and unite it to tlie stock, 
■with or without heading down the stock, and before separating 
the branch-graft from the parent tree. 

This mode of grafting is used chiefly for woody flowering or 
fruit-bearing green-house plants, as cameliaSj^oranges, &c., 
which, being in pots or boxes, can be readily adjusted for the 
, process, but may be used for all kinds of trees. 

It is performed by bringing together the stems of companion 
trees, using a strain bar, if necessary, to control their position, 
or arrangino; in contact the stem of the stock and the selected 
branch-graft just at the j)oint chosen, and uniting them by 
tongue grafting, forming by their union an arch (en-arching 
them), of Avhich the graft tongues form the centre or key. See 
Fig. 117, c and d. The process is not very difficult. Choose 
your stock, and the branch or head you propose to transfer to 
it of equal or nearly equal size, which may be from a quarter 
to rather more than half an inch diameter. Trim them, or ei- 
ther of them, as you may find needful, to permit their easy ap- 
proach ; then cut from each, precisely at their point of contact, 
a section or slice of equal length and size — say about two inch- 
es long — reaching in depth to about one third their diameter, 
the knife entering and coming out gradually in the very same 
manner as in cutting a bud from the scion. See p. 220. If 
either is larger than the other, the depth of cut must be pro- 
portionably shallower, so that the barks on both their sides 
may match with exactness. A rather stout tongue is then 
cut upon each, passing the knife upward from about a quarter 
or half an inch helow the centre of the cut upon the graft- 
branch, and downward from about a quarter or half an inch 
above the centre of that upon the stock, making the tongue 
upon each equal, and of sufiicient length to permit the whole 
to match. See Fig. 117 a. These must then be carefully and 
rather firmly interlocked, care being taken to match the barks 
together with precision througliout, lengthening the cut a lit- 
tle upon either by entering the knife cautiously between them 
if they do not correspond at the ends. Bind them very strong- 
ly with bass strips or other ordinary bandages, and cover thick- 
ly with grafting mortar or composition. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 287 

When inarching is to be performed upon plants in pots or 
boxes, arrange a fii*m stand for the plant that may be short, so 
as readily to bring together the parts to be operated on, mak- 
ing, however, a little allowance for raising or lowering the one 
or the other when you come to interlock them. If there is any 
danger of disturbance, a stay, consisting of a piece of pine board 
four to six inches wide, may be lashed to the stock and parent 
tree, extending from near the root of the shorter (see Fig. 
117 &) ; and if the graft-branch does not easily come into posi- 
tion to form a handsome head, it may be strained or drawn a 
little inta order by being bound to a stake set for the purpose, 
or by a fastened cord stretched to some fii'm hold. 

If well done, they will unite by what sm-geons call " first in- 
tention," and in a few weeks, or sometimes months, more or 
less, the branch-gi-aft may be severed from the parent tree, and 
the head of the stock be cut oflF, each close to the point of 
union, leaving upon the new tree the appearance of a simple 
and not veiy neat splice, which, however, the subsequent 
growth of the plant will rectify. 

The possibility of making this mode of grafting available in 
fancy and ornamental arrangements will at once occur to the 
intelligent reader. It is not absolutely necessary to tongue 
the parts if they are well matched and bound, nor to separate 
the graft and stock, or to cut off either of them ;' but in ordi- 
nary cases this is done after they have knitted perfectly, the 
severance being effected gradually, cutting each about one third 
through at a time, at intervals of ten or twelve days or more, 

TIME OP GRAFTING. 

Grafting may be performed at any time during the winter 
upon young stocks cellared for the pui'pose, and kept in sand 
or common earth until the opening of spring permits their set- 
ting out. 

The proper time of grafting on ordinary stocks in the open 
ground is just as soon as the circulation begins in the spring, 
and before the growth actually commences. This differs in 
different trees and latitudes. The following will be found a 
good general order of grafting, viz. : Cherries, plums, pears, 



238 AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN. 

apples ; but if scions are cut early and well preserved, grafting 
may be successfully performed by a skillful hand until the 
trees become full-leaved, though earlier grafting is to be pre- 
ferred. Crown grafting upon large limbs should be deferred 
until the trees are just ready to push their buds, so that the 
stiletto will readily open the bark for the reception of the graft- 
wedge. 

Inarching may be performed, like other grafting, just before 
growth commences. In plants that are housed, as camellias, 
&c., this may be after New Year, and again in June, but in 
out-door kinds at ordinary spring-time. 

BINDING UP AND COVERING. 

When grafting is performed upon stocks before planting 
them, they are sometimes not bound up at all ; at other times, 
and especially when they are small seedling stocks, they are 
wrapped with refuse tow, or flax, or rag, or other bandage (see 
Fig. 116 e, p. 234), and in both cases, being planted sufficiently 
deep, in rows, the earth is ridged slightly along, so as to shed 
the rain and substitute for other protection. When grafted 
above ground by either of the modes described, except cleft and 
crown grafting, careful bandaging is never omitted ; but, either 
with bass strips, or rags, or tow, they are bound firmly to their 
true position, and covered either with grafting mortar or com- 
position, as directed hereafter. In cleft and crown grafting, 
the graft is generally held with sufficient firmness to its posi- 
tion by the stock, and requires only covering from the air and 
moisture, which is effected either by coating it with composi- 
tion (No. 1), or binding it with rags coated with or soaked in 
the composition ; or binding or Avrapping it first with rag or 
other material, and applying with a brush one or other of the 
compositions described on another page ; or by forming around 
it a ball of grafting mortar as large as a goose egg. This must 
be so applied as not to press the graft out of place, and, being 
moulded to an oval or egg form fovir or five inches long, with 
the upper and smaller end carefully closed, and the larger end 
well set around the stock just below the wrapping, it is nicely 
finished by dipping the hands in a little dry dust or ashes, and 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 239 

giving it the proper shape (Fig. 113 e, p. 230). Care is re- 
quired in the binding to avoid drawing the bandage into a 
string around the neck of the graft ; otherwise, when it swells, 
the bandage will cut in, and soon the wind will snap it off. 
At this point let the wrapping be free as possible, and in put- 
ting on either the composition or mortar, be sure that no small 
hole or fissure is left for water to settle into the cleft or other 
opening in which the graft is inserted. 

GRAFTING COMPOSITION. 
No. 1. 
Equal parts of rosin, beeswax, and tallow, melted together 
and worked into toughness by kneading and pulling, as molas- 
ses, when boiled down, is made into taffy. It may be kept in 
water, and used without bandages. Being warmed in the hand 
for use, it is made into small, thin sheets as wanted, and pressed 
closely over the wounds and around the grafts, so as to exclude 
air and water, a little grease being used to prevent its stick- 
ing to the fingers. 

No. 2. 
Two parts rosin, one or one and a half part beeswax, and 
half or three fourths of a part tallow, melted together as No. 1 , 
and spread with a brush while warm on rag or cheap muslin, 
which may be cut or torn into strips or patches as wanted for 
use ; or the strips or patches may be soaked in the composi- 
tion. Or the graft may be bound with dry rag, the loose end 
being sealed down with a touch of the composition, and the 
whole covered with a coat laid on warm with a brush, the com- 
position being kept melted over a furnace or pot of embers. 

No. 3. 
Two parts pitch, two parts rosin, one part beeswax, one part 
tallow, and one part turpentine, melted together and boiled for 
half an hour. This is, on the whole, superior to the former, 
and may be used as that, either spread on the rag before wrap- 
ping, or laid on with a brush after the graft has been bound, 
being kept melted for this purpose. 



240 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

GRAFTING MORTAR. 

What is called grafting mortar is made either by mixing 
strong loam or clay with an indefinite proportion of horse-dung 
or cut straw, or both, working it up to the consistence of mor- 
tar thoroughly and repeatedly to toughen it. When required 
for use, it should be a little stifier than potter's clay. 

Instead of the above, equal parts of strong loam and cow-dung 
may be used, to be prepared and applied in the same manner. 

AFTER-TREATMENT. 

Newly-set grafts should be watched throughout the season, 
to stop and restop any holes or cracks which the heat of sum- 
mer or the swelling growth may occasion in the coating which 
defends them, and to slacken the bandages by cutting them 
through at the back of the stock whenever there is danger of 
their cutting into the stock or graft. The growth of the graft 
should also be observed, and a proper form and direction given 
to it by nipping or tying up, as may be found necessary. 

In addition to these precautions, young stocks budded or 
grafted should be kept carefully clear of natural or stock shoots, 
all of which must be removed as soon as they appear. The 
hand, defended by a stout glove, may be rubbed harshly around 
or down the stock while they are yet quite tender, and it is done. 

But larger and older trees require different treatment. Only 
a part of the limbs of a large tree should be grafted at one 
time, so that there may be a sufiicient supply of leaves pro- 
duced to effect a healthful circulation in the tree ; and, for 
the same reason, much of the young growth may be suffered to 
remain upon the limbs that are grafted, to keep those parts 
in vigor. If these precautions are neglected, the full graft- 
ing of a large tree will generally kill it, or portions of it. 
But, on the other hand, the moment it is seen that the grafts 
have taken, care must be given that no strong, gluttonous 
shoots are put forth near them, but all such as seem likely 
to become stronger than the graft growth should be nipped 
from time to time, to check them and strengthen it. 

In succeeding years, the remaining limbs may be grafted, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



241 



and the needless branches and sprouts cut away in the course 
of winter pruning, having regard always to the necessities of 
the system of circulation in the individual tree. 




HEIGHT OP STEM. 

Fig. 118. 





a. Orcliard tree, with stem seven to nine feet high. 

b. Orchard tree, with stem four to five feet high. 

c. A dwarf tree, trimmed into conical form. 

(t. A dwarf tree, conical, but formed with drooping habit. 

In rearing the young tree from the bud or graft, we usually 
determine the height of its stem when ready for bearing. It 



242 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

is therefore plain that we may take our choice of low or high 
trees, tall or short steins. The general practice has been to 
set out trees with tall stems, or trim them up tall afterward. 
Fig. 118 a. This perhaps may have arisen from the too preva- 
lent habit of suffering cattle to run in our young orchards, 
which is as outrageous as it would be to stable them in our 
parlor's. It is difficult to change habits, even after the reason 
for their formation has passed away ; but it is clear that or- 
chard trees with short stems, say four or five feet high, are, on 
many accounts, more desirable than tall ones. (See Fig. 118 
b.) They are much more readily pruned, the fruit is more ea- 
sily gathered, and thus much labor saved. A certain farmer, 
scarcely yet in middle life, has an orchard of sixty russeting 
apples, grafted and planted by himself when a boy, which 
yielded in 1856 some six hundred barrels of fruit, half of 
which could be gathered without bench or ladder by a man of 
ordinary height standing upon the ground. 

Fruit is not so readily blown off from low trees as high ones, - 
and when it falls is less injured for use or market. The main 
stem of a short tree is also less exposed to injury from the sun 
and from late spring frost, the latter sometimes bursting the 
vessels in which the heat of the former has caused the circula- 
tion to start. 

Insects do not so readily select a tree partially shaded as a 
place of deposit for their eggs, instinct telling them that they 
need the sun to hatch them. 

Shorter stems for orchard trees, and higher fences for or- 
chards, will be found decided improvements. 

Very low-stemmed trees, or " dwarfs," are sometimes pruned 
into a pyramidal, or, rather, conical shape, by suffering all the 
young side shoots to grow, and nipping their extremities, short- 
ening also the main shoot or leader. Fig. 118 c ; or, with the 
same general form, a drooping habit is given to the young tree 
by tying downward the points of the young branches, Fig. 118 
d ; and these and other fancies may be pm'sued to any extent. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 243 



CHAPTER XVn. 

Setting out Trees, preparing Holes, &c. — Tables of Arrangement of Dis- 
tances, Area, &c. — After-culture. — Combination of Fruits. 

SETTING OUT. 

For all kinds of trees that are perfectly hardy, early fall 
planting is to be preferred. If the earth is suflficiently moist 
to allow of their being well taken up, they should be removed 
as soon as the circulation is checked, or say when the first 
frost causes a fall of the leaves. Trees that are liable to in- 
jury from the winter, as peach, and, in some places, cherry, 
should, in such localities, be set out only in the spring. 

In choosing trees for setting out, those of moderate or even 
small size are generally to be preferred. Large trees suffer 
more by removal, and require more prompt and abundant sup- 
plies to start them again vigorously. They are also more dif- 
ficult and expensive to transport ; yet, if not removed far, and 
the directions for planting, given page 245, are observed, they 
may be very successfully transplanted, and, if well cared for by 
being staked and mulched, and, if need be, manured after set- 
ting out, will come quickly into bearing. 

Li general, however, fruit-trees should be set out where they 
are expected to remain in the second or third year from the 
graft or bud, except peach-trees, which, being commonly bud- 
ded in the fall of their first year's growth from the seed, may 
be advantageously set out in the spring of their second year, 
before the bud sprouts, and, being properly headed down, the 
bud will make a strong growth before fall, and be benefited by 
remaining undisturbed from the start. K preferred, however, 
the common mode may be followed, which is to allow the bud 
to make a year's growth before the setting out. 

The resetting of trees in their previous relative positions as 
to their north and south sides was formerly deemed of impor- 
tance, but is of no practical consequence. 

In general, the depth at which they are set should be about 



244 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



that at which they have previously stood, or a little deeper, 
particularly if set out in the fall. 

For special objects, or upon small lots, dwarfed fruit-trees 
may be found desirable, but they are not to be relied on as per- 
manent, nor even of long continuance, without special care and 
high culture, and are not, therefore, recommended, except for 
intermediate planting, or for fancy, or in soils or climates un- 
favorable to the production of fruit upon more vigorous stocks. 

If dwarfed trees are worked low, near the collar of the stock, 
and in the final transplanting are set pretty deep, so that the 
joint is covered five or six inches, roots will in due time be 
thrown out from the graft, and these, being stronger and more 
natural than the roots of the dwarfing stock, which may even 
perish after the new roots are formed, the tree will thence ac- 
quire additional strength, approximating in effect to a tree 
raised from a cutting, and having a character intermediate be- 
tween an ordinary dwarfed tree and one grafted upon a seed- 
ling stock. It will be longer lived than the former, but not 
equal to the latter in the vigor of its roots, yet by careful sum- 
mer pruning, as directed page 254, it may, for certain kinds or 
in particular localities, be preferred, and become a substitute 
for both, but, like the ordinary dwarfed tree, will always de- 
mand extra care. 



SHORTENING THE ROOTS AND TOP. 
Fig. 119. 




a. Young tree pruned ready 
for getting out. 

b. Young tree pruned, and 
set out upon a wet-soil surface, 
the roots being covered by hill- 
ing up, staked, and mulched. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 245 

If trees could ordinarily be removed with their roots from 
stem to extremity uninjured, the top also might be safely left 
entire, and the operation would be equivalent to no removal, so 
far as the growth of the tree is concerned. But the roots of 
trees usually extend as far, and often farther, than their tops, 
so that in practice this is entirely out of the question ; it is 
only in the removal of trees in winter, with heavy balls of 
earth, that we even partially attain this object. In all ordi- 
nary cases of removal, excepting those trees which may have 
uncommonly short, fibrous roots, the larger portion of the spon- 
gioles, which form the utmost extremities of all the roots, are 
separated from the tree, and still others of them are often 
bruised or dried before the replanting of the tree. In this 
state of the case, since we can not preserve, we seek a process 
that will quickly reproduce them ; that process is judicious 
shortening of both roots and top (Fig. 119 a). In this, as in 
ordinary pruning, there is doubtless somewhere a precise line 
of right, an exact limit ; but as we have no immediate and 
palpable means of discovering this, we endeavor to approach it 
by proportioning, according to our best judgment, the one to 
the other. K, in ordinary cases, one third of the root is sacri- 
ficed in the taking up and shortening, we shorten or lessen the 
weight of the top to about the same extent. 

In general, all the roots and all the branches should be op- 
erated upon, and in shortening the former, the cut should be 
made with a keen knife on the mider side, and sloping outward, 
so that, when planted, the face of the cut will rest upon the 
earth, affording a natural position for throwing out its young 
rootlets. The pruning of the top, also, should be done in a 
manner to balance the tree and secure an outward growth of 
the shoots, which will, in the main, be effected by cutting from 
within outward, just above a bud situated on the under or out- 
side of the young shoot. 

PREPARING HOLES AND PLANTING. 

In preparing for setting out trees, the holes should be made 
much larger and deeper than is common. In digging them, let 
the surface soil be kept by itself; when the subsoil is thrown 



246 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

out to a sufficient depth, the bottom of the hole should be loosen- 
ed, and a portion of the surface soil or rich earth mixed with 
it, filling up the hole so far as may be necessary to suit the 
root. Having the root properly trimmed, set it carefully in 
position, with the fibres spread naturally, and fill in gradually 
with good earth finely pulverized, shaking the root gently 
once or twice to secure the filling up of any open spaces. 
When the roots are well covered with the earth, take the body 
of the tree in your hands, and, holding it true, press the earth 
with the foot upon the roots with moderate firmness ; then fill 
up the hole about level with the surface, hilling a little if the 
planting is done in the fall, and dishing slightly if done in 
the spring. 

If your soil be very wet, dig the holes as above directed, and 
refill them again to the surface, or very nearly, and, spreading 
the roots upon this loose surface, hill the earth over them, and 
carefully stake your tree. In wet soils of a deep boggy or 
mucky nature, and that can not be drained, holes need not be 
dug, but the tree may be set immediately upon the sod, and 
covered by hilling largely, staking it strongly, and mulching 
it. See Fig. 119 &, p. 244. 

Whenever it is found necessary at the setting out to stake 
trees, it would be well to have the stakes set firmly into the 
holes and ranged with precision before removing the trees, in 
which case they may be easily and accurately arranged in po- 
sition by being afterward set uniformly upon the same side of 
the stake ; but, whether set before or after, let them be firmly 
bound to the stake with a straw or other coarse band, passing 
and crossed between the tree and the stake, so that, in case of 
frequent winds, it will prevent rubbing ; and having spread 
around them, if it is spring, coarse litter, or straw, or loose 
rubbish of any kind, as mulching, weight it with a few stones 
to keep it in place, and your work is done (Fig. 119 h, p. 244). 

If drought occur, you may, if you deem it necessary, apply 
water through the covering of mulch or litter ; but avoid the 
not uncommon practice of pouring pails of water into the holes 
when planting, by which the earth, which should be loose and 
friable, is made into mud or mortar, which a succeeding heat 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



24T 



may bake to brick. Plant seasonably and carefully, and you 
will plant successfully. 

ARRANGEMENT AND DISTANCES. 

If found desirable, as it often will be, one or more of the 
plots of the garden may be appropriated to fruits, in which 
case, as in planting orchards, whether the various kinds of 
fruit are combined or not, the trees should not be arranged in 
exact squares, but in the alternated or diamond form — that is, 
so that each row will line either way, not with the row adjoin- 
ing it, but with that which is next but one. The distance at 
which they ai-e to be set should be carefully decided in view 
of the character and condition of the particular varieties you 
intend to plant, their modes of growth, and times of ripening 
their fruit, as well as the nature of the soil in which they are 
to stand, and the after-treatment they are to receive. 

The following table will afford at a glance the data necessa- 
ry to the arrangement of their relative distances, and show the 
area of surface allowed to each by such arrangement. 

Table showing the Distance every way between Trees planted in 
the alternated or diamond form, at various widths, with the 
Area or Number of Square Feet of Surface to each Tree, and 
THE Number of Trees upon an Acre. 



Widths apart. 


Equidistant from 


Area or Number of Square Feet 


Number of Trees 


each other. 


of Surface to each Tree. 


per Acre. 


40 feet by 34 


40 feet. 


1360 feet. 


32 


35 " 29 


35 " 


1015 " 


43 


30 " 25 


30 " 


750 " 


58 


25 " 21 


25 " 


525 " 


83 


20 " 17 


20 " 


340 " 


128 


15 " 9 


15 " 


135 " 


322 


10 " 8 


10 " 


80 " 


544 


8 " 7 


8 " 


56 " 


778 


6 " 5 


6 " 


30 " 


1452 


5 " 4 


5 " 


20 " 


2178 



If for any cause it is deemed preferable to plant in squares, 
the following table will be found useful, and its smaller figures 
may aid calculations of vegetable field-crops. 



248 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Table showing the Number of Trees or Plants that may be set 
UPON AN Acre at the given Distances apart, omitting Fractions. 



Distance apart. 


Number of Trees or 
Plants per Acre. 


Distance 


apart. 


Numljer of J'rees or 
Plants per Acre. 


40 feet by 40 


27 


10 feet 


by 7 


622 


35 " 35 


35 


10 ' 


' 6 


726 


30 " 30 


48 


10 ' 


' 5 


871 


25 " 25 


69 


5 


' 5 


1,742 


20 " 20 


108 


5 


' 4 


2,178 


20 " 15 


145 


5 ' 


' 3 


2,904 


20 " 10 


217 


5 ' 


' 2 


4,356 


20 " 5 


435 


5 


' 1 


8,712 


15 " 15 


193 


4 ' 


' 4 


2,722 


15 " 10 


290 


3 ' 


' 3 


4,840 


15 " 5 


580 


3 ' 


' 2 


7,260 


10 " 10 


435 


2 


' 2 


10,890 


10 " 9 


484 


2 ' 


' 1 


21,780 


10 " 8 


544 


1 


' 1 


4,3,560 



AFTER-CULTURE. 

Whenever young fruit-trees are set out, the land around them 
should be well cultivated, at least for several years. In ar- 
ranging for this, hilled crops are to be preferred ; and, what- 
ever may be done with the intermediate spaces, let the lines 
of crop run so that each tree will occupy the position of a hill, 
receiving the same manuring and care through the season. If, 
from any necessity, the land is laid down to grass, or young 
trees are planted in sod, let a space be annually dug around 
each equal to the spread of the top, and a liberal supply of 
liquid or other manure be regularly given in the fall. 

MANURING FRUIT-TREES. 

In general, after they attain age and come into bearing, fruit- 
trees should be only moderately manured. A little salt may 
be spread widely around them in the spring, or air-slaked or 
old lime at the rate of ten to twenty bushels to the acre. Pot- 
ash, in the form of spent ashes, which usually contain also 
sufficient lime, charcoal dust, coal ashes, chip manure, or the 
scrapings up of the wood-pile, crushed bones or bone-dust, de- 
caying wood, or SAvamp-muck without composting. Liquid ma- 
nm-e of any kind may also be cautiously applied. Animal 
matter, as horn shavings, wool waste, &c., &c., is valuable, but 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 249 

care should be taken to apply it rather in deficiency than in 
excess, watching the effect upon the trees in your own partic- 
ular locality and soil, and repeating or discontinuing its use 
accordingly, always aiming to induce moderate and regular 
growth, and steady rather than excessive bearing. 

In orchard culture, where the plow can be freely used, it will 
be found a good practice to plow carefully once every third or 
foui'th year, turning under, if convenient, a very light coat of 
barn-yard manure with the sod, and harrowing in thoroughly 
from fifteen to thirty bushels of lime per acre ; seed immedi- 
ately with clover, or clover and orchard grass ; and top-dress 
annually with eighty or a hundred pounds of plaster to the 
acre, or alternate this with one hundred and fifty pounds of 
guano, or twenty bushels of ashes, and your orchard will thrive 
and your land improve, 

COMBINATION OP FRUITS, 

In the cultivation of various fruits, it is often agreeable, and 
may sometimes economize land and labor to combine them in 
the same orchard or plot. Thus, if apple-trees on common 
stocks are planted in alternated rows forty feet by thirty-four, 
they may be filled in with dwarf trees of any desired kinds by 
planting them in the line of the orchard trees at ten feet apart, 
with two full rows at the same distance between, in the thirty- 
four feet spaces, which will allow the rows to be made eleven 
and one third feet apart. The trees in a plot thus filled up 
will stand at right angles, eleven and one third by ten feet dis- 
tance, each having one hundred and thirteen and a third square 
feet of space. See Plan No. 1, A, A, B, B, B. 

The smaller trees are to be removed gradually as the ad- 
vancing growth of the main orchard may require. 

In planting pear-trees, twenty-five feet by twenty-one, or 
twenty by seventeen, a single row of dwarfed pears may be 
planted each way in like manner, standing twelve and a half 
feet by ten, or ten by eight and a half Cherry, pear, or high- 
stemmed quince-trees may be set to advantage in the rows of 
raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, or currants, also along 
the centre of strawberry-beds, and it will be found a good mode 

L2 



250 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

of combination in either quince or pear plot to place the rows 
say twenty-two by twenty feet apart, or twenty-two by ten feet 
if preferred, each row standing in the centre of a strip four 
feet wide, for strawberries (Plan No. 2, A, C), while at seven 
feet distance from each row of trees a row of either of the 
smaller fruits above named is planted at from four to eight 
feet apart in the row, at discretion, leaving eight feet space in 
the centre, and affording ample room for their cultivation with 
the plow, or for planting small vegetable crops between them, 
if desired. See Plan No. 2, B, B, p. 251. 

In this, or any other mode devised, fruits may be profitably 
combined, provided the necessary surface space be afforded to 
each, and suitable care and high culture be given to them, 

PLAN OF COMBINATION OF FRUITS. 

No, 1. 
APPLE ORCHARD FILLED IN "WITH DWARF TREES, 

Fig. 120. 



® X 


X X 


o >^ 


X 


X 


Ox 


X 




o 


BX X 


K X 


X X 


X 


X 


X X 


X 


X 


X 


BX X 


X X 


X X 


X 


X 


X X 


X 


X 


;< 


i 

i 


o ^ 


X X 


o 


X 


X X 


o 


X 


X 


® 




o 






o 






o 



A. (Circles.) Apple-trees forty by thirty-four feet: area for each tree one thousand 
three hundred and sixty feet. 

B. (Stars.) Dwarf apples, pears, or quinces, ten by eleven and one third feet : area for 
each tree one hundred and thirteen and a third feet. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 251 

No. 2. 

PEARS, WITH STRAWBERRIES, AND CURRANTS OR GOOSEBER- 
RIES, &C. 

Fig. 120. 



®- 


Ez=»E£C:^E 


-=CF= 


-3^£5E£EE^ 


D-^ 


e;ch3S^eee 


-o 


Bx X 


XXX 


X X 


XXX 


X X 


X X 


X X 


Bx X 


XXX 


X X 

_rN 


XXX 


X X 


X X 


X X 

— r-\ 


~^|gBE~C:: 


r:Li:::r 


-:zn^t~:i: 


-Li-:: 


C _;>$.-:: 


:::::U 



A, A. (Circles.) Pears twenty feet by twenty-two, or ten feet by twenty-two, standing 
along the centre of strawberry beds. 

B, B. (Stars.) Gooseberries, or currants, or raspberries, four to eight feet apart. 

C, C. Strawberries ; bed four feet wide. 

LABELING AND DIAGRAM. 

All fruit-trees should be labeled when planted, and, in ad- 
dition to this, a correct diagram of each plot should be pre- 
pared, so that at a glance the name of every variety you pos- 
sess may be known. See page 215. 



CHAPTER XVm. 



Pruning; various Objects, Periods, and Modes of. — Cleaning and Scrap- 
ing Fruit-trees. — Fruiting ; healthful Tendency to. — The Law of prema- 
ture or forced Fruiting, and various Modes of its Application,*' 

PRUNING. 

We prune to weaken and to strengthen, and often simply to 
balance — that is, to check or invigorate relative portions of the 
same tree or plant, to give it symmetry, or promote its blos- 
soming and fruitfulness. 

It becomes important clearly to distinguish the varieties of 
a process from which such varied results are obtained. The 



252 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



one we will call winter pruning, though, for convenience, it is 
often done in the fall or spring ; the other summer pruning, 
though performed from the first putting forth of the leaves in 
spring until the middle of the fall. In addition to which, 
there is the rarely performed operation of root pruning, which, 
though more immediately effective if done in August, may be 
performed at any season. 

Fig. 121. 




a. A tree of one year's growth from the bud, cut back. 
6. A tree of two years' growth from the bud, cut back. 

c. A nursery tree pruned ready for setting out, showing the shoulders where the young 
branches have been cut oflf. 

d. An orchard tree ready to come into bearing, with the head opened by winter pruning. 



WINTER PRUNING. 

Winter pruning is the common shortening of seedling stocks 
when we transplant them into nursery rows, the cutting back 
and fashioning which we commonly perform in the course of 
their nursery culture and at their final transplanting, and the 
annual trimming throughout their mature growth, for forming 
and strengthening the tree. 

In young trees it is generally called " cutting back," be- 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN, 253 

cause the shoots of the previous year are shortened in the op- 
eration (Fig. 121 a, b). 

The vigor of the subsequent growth is commonly in direct 
proportion to the extent to which this pruning is carried, heavy 
pruning being followed by strong growth, and vice versa. It 
is the natural tendency of the growth to push from the extrem- 
ities, but the leading shoot of a stock three fourths of an inch 
in diameter at the butt, and four or five feet high, if left un- 
pruned, may grow two feet or so upward in a season ; if cut 
back to within two or thi'ee buds of the previous year's growth, 
it will usually more than double this growth, either in a sin- 
gle shoot or more ; while, if cut down near the root for grafting 
or otherwise, or having been budded the previous fall, it will, 
with ordinary care, push upward a strong fine growth from 
five to nine feet, the roots also being strengthened by the op- 
eration. All winter pruning of young or old trees should be 
performed with as little injury as possible to the bark ; every 
young shoot cut away should be taken off just outside the 
shoulder or swell at its base, leaving this upon the stem to 
heal over and strengthen the tree (Fig. 121 c). If severe 
wounds are made, coat them with paint, or pitch, or grafting 
composition, No. 3, or shellac dissolved in alcohol. 

Winter pruning applied to trees after they are planted out 
to bear is chiefly intended to open the head for light and air, 
to allow of moving freely in the tree for gathering the fruit, 
and to keep its form symmetrical (Fig. 121 d). 

EXCESSIVE WINTER PRUNING. 

Sometimes, in neglected orchards, so much cutting seems 
necessai-y to open the head of the tree, and permit the easy 
gathering of the fruit, that an inexperienced cultivator is 
tempted clumsily to overdo the work ; and this excessive and 
coarse pruning induces a strong upright growth of baiTcn, 
gluttonous shoots, which, if left to groAV, disfigure and injure 
the trees (Fig. 122, page 254). Let all your trees be careful- 
ly pruned while young, never permitting an ill-placed or a 
superfluous shoot to grow more than a single season at the 
most ; and if pruning an orchard that has suffered from pre- 



254 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 




^'s- 122. vious neglect, watch it, and prevent 

gluttonous growth by nipping and 
summer pruning. Winter pruning 
may generally be performed at any 
time between the first black frost in 
fall and the opening of spring ; but 
the fall, except, perhaps, in cli- 
mates of excessive severity, is great- 
ly preferable for this purpose, the 
^ cuts being made at a little distance 
1/ outside of the extreme bud left upon 
the branch. 

SUMMER PRUNING. 

Summer pruning is generally used 
to prevent an undue or unsightly 
growth in any one portion of the 
tree or plant, or to check its luxuri- 

An old neglected tree that has heen aUCC, and thereby iuduCO fruiting. 
roughly over-pruned, and " glut- _ , - "^ , 

tons" formed. it may DC donc to very great ad- 

vantage by simply nipping with the thumb and finger, or with 
a pair of small pocket trimming shears, the young shoots that 
start improperly or with a disproportionate vigor. A child 
may do it with a toy knife, or a lady with her scissors, and 
make a marked improvement in the condition of a tree even in 
a single year, and save very much of the labor of winter prun- 
ing. 

For this purpose, carefully watch the putting forth of the 
shoots, and if one threatens to cross another, nip it ; if a num- 
ber of young shoots are thrown inward into the head of the 
tree, thickening it up, nip them all out, so as to give to the 
young forming head the openness which you will find impor- 
tant when it comes into bearing. See Fig. 121 d, p. 252. If 
the leading upright shoot threatens to gi'ow so strong as to 
discourage or prevent the formation of the necessary side shoots 
for a head, nip it, and thus throw the circulation into the side 
channels. If any one of the branches threatens to become 
gluttonous, growing^ with excessive, or, at least, disproportion- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEX. 255 

ate vigor, and thus making a lop-sided tree, nip it from time 
to time, and compel or restore an equilibrium ; and if it be in 
bearing, pluck the fruit while small from the weaker portion, 
and let it ripen upon the stronger. If youi- tree generally 
grow too luxuriantly, and you would encourage early fruiting, 
check its growth by nipping an inch or two from the points of 
all its branches in June, and repeat the process a month later 
if the tree does not appear to feel it, continuing this from year 
to year, with very light winter pruning. 

To dwarfed trees that are to be kept in the bush form, this 
mode of summer pruning should be thoroughly and carefully 
applied, every young shoot being nipped as soon as it has at- 
tained such a length as the cultivator judges sufficient for the 
season upon the individual tree, those of strong growth being 
allowed a foot at the utmost to each young shoot, but generally 
half this length will be found preferable. The young, tender 
second growth from the nipped extremity must be renipped, 
and the only winter pruning necessaiy should be the cutting 
oflF these weakened buds from the extremities so far as to fur- 
nish a full sound bud to start for the next season's limited ad- 
dition. 

If, however, the trees are to be " trained," running certain 
leading shoots horizontally, and treating them somewhat after 
the manner of spur-pruning the grape, the main young shoot 
of each may be allowed to lengthen more rapidly — say two feet 
in a season — the side shoots throughout its length being nip- 
ped as above directed for the bush form. See also page 258. 

ROOT PRUNING. 
Root pruning is an operation requiring great caution and 
moderation in its performance. It is effected by cutting off a 
portion of the roots at a distance from the tree, in order to 
check its growth and force fruit. It may be done by digging 
a trench around the tree and cutting the roots with a knife, or 
by encu'cling the tree partially or entirely with a deep cut, 
made by driving the blade of a post-spade to the depth of a 
foot or eighteen inches. In all ordinary cases the latter and 
less laborious process will suffice, with careful summer pruning. 



256 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

to effect the end. The distance at which the roots are cut 
must be proportioned to the size of the tree, the object being 
to cut off only so many of its feeders as temporarily to stint its 
supply of sap. For a tree three inches in diameter, the cut 
may be made at a distance of three or four feet from the stem, 
and so on. August is a good time for the operation. 

Root pruning is sometimes also resorted to for the purpose 
of restoring health to a tree that has become diseased from its 
deeper roots entering an unfavorable or poisonous subsoil. In 
this case a large opening is made on one side, and a sharpen- 
ed spade driven with force under the whole central portion of 
the tree, whence the deep roots usually proceed. It should 
always be accompanied by high surface culture. 

CLEANING AND SCRAPING. 

At least once a year all bearing trees should be cleaned by 
washing or scraping, or both, from all moss and dead bark ; 
and whether this be done in fall or spring, every portion of the 
scrapings should l)e gathered and burned, as well as all trim- 
mings, of whatever kind, from trees infested by insects or dis- 
eased. 

FRUITING. 

It is common to speak of the "rapid" or "slow circulation 
of the sap," and of its " accumulation" and " more perfect elab- 
oration," and the consequent formation of fruit-buds, as result- 
ing from the retarded rate of its flow. I know of no such se- 
ries of experiments upon the rate of vegetable circulation, with 
its variations, as might enable us to approximate to a safe con- 
clusion upon the subject, nor do I find any thing in nature that 
might suggest or sustain the theory by analogy. It is also 
difficult to understand how cutting off the supplies in root prun- 
ing, or in any way retarding the flow of sap, should cause its 
accumulation (if the language quoted be accurately used), or 
how it happens that on mature trees with a habit of biennial 
bearing the blossom-buds are always formed in the year of 
their most free growth. They are also formed in the fall, at 
wliich period, according to Boucherie, as quoted by J. F. W. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 257 

Johnston, colored solutions reax;h the leaves through the circu- 
lation more rapidly than in the spring. The theory may be 
sound, but it does not seem so. If a branch be girdled to in- 
duce fruiting, it does not continue to bleed ; its tubes may 
therefore be reckoned as closed at the descending end. If the 
mouth of a full siphon be closed, how can its contents " accu- 
mulate .^" Oi', if we may suppose the circulating power to be 
constituted by the combined forces of what we call the vital 
principle, temperature, and capillary attraction, then the first 
is strongest in the rapidly-growing but non-bearing tree ; the 
second we may assume as equal at the period in which the 
matter of fruiting is decided ; and the third ought to be greater 
in the tree of slower or less thrifty growth, for in this case the 
tubes are usually smaller and less open, and the capillary force 
is in an inverse ratio to the diameter of the tube in which it 
operates. We infer, therefore, that mere rate of circulation has 
little to do with, or by no means controls the question of fruit- 
age, but that probably the fullness and character of the supply, 
in connection with the peculiar constitutional condition of the 
tree, governs the production of fruit, and not mere rate of move- 
ment. Or, if it be argued that the organizing matter accumu- 
lates, while the water is exhaled or perspired from the leaves, 
this should involve increased wood growth in the girdled limb, 
the contrary of which results, except to a trifling extent at the 
upper lip of the girdling cut, where it occurs in a manner sim- 
ilar in appearance to the formation of the " callus" at the bur- 
ied end of a branch cutting. See Fig. 82 e,/, p. 197. 

On page 66 of this work we have observed that the most 
marked feature of vegetable life is its tendency to reproduction. 

All healthful vegetable growth moves toward this end in its 
appointed natural course, attaining maturity in a longer or 
shorter period, according to its peculiar constitution, as modi- 
fied or afiected by climate and other circumstances. As a co- 
rollary of, or at least in connection with this tendency to repro- 
duction, we find what seems to be a law, that whenever, from 
any cause, there arises a probability of this result being de- 
feated, or even a possibility that the individual may perish 
without accomplishing it, the tendency toward it is immediately 



258 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

stimulated, and annihilation is avoided by a premature, though 
it may be feeble exertion of the reproductive powers. 

I suppose a similar law to hold in reference to animal life, 
and that in the human family it may perhaps be taken to ex- 
plain the remarkable though often impotent precocity of the 
deformed and dwarfed. It is true, the force and extent of an 
injury from which this possibility of annihilation arises may 
be such as to destroy these powers, so that the enfeebled blos- 
som falls, and leaves no seed or fruit, or so to weaken them that, 
though the fruit form, it yet drops from the tree imperfect and 
worthless, but the law appears still to hold, and this is the law 
of which we take advantage when we would hasten the period 
of matm-ity or fruitage in the tree or plant. 

The means and processes by which we call this law into ac- 
tion for the early or increased production either of flowers or 
fruit are very numerous and diversified, though they may all 
be classed as expedients for checking growth. Cramping the 
roots of plants in pots, with poor soil, or withholding water to 
an extreme at a certain stage of their growth, as often practiced 
by successful florists, are of this character. Transplanting 
also, whether more or less frequent. In young seedling trees 
of new kinds, the repeated grafting of the tree upon itself, con- 
tinued from year to year, or grafting it upon the spreading 
branch of an old bearing tree ; all the processes of dwarfing ; 
ringing or girdling a limb ; or, which is equally efficient and 
oftcner practiced, the di sharking a lai^ge portion of a young or- 
chard tree with the plow ; or the severe action of insects ; or 
summer pruning, by which we interfere with the circulation ; 
setting in shallow and poor soil ; or root pruning, by which we 
cut oflf the supply of sap ; or constricting the vessels of a ram- 
pant limb by bending it ; while the most ancient device known 
is to " bore a hole in the tree, and drive in an oaken plug." 

Disease also, from whatever cause it may arise, has similar 
effects, and the sick tree yields fruit, or the sick plant runs up 
to seed more quickly than its healthful companions. 

In annual or biennial vegetables there is no object to answer 
in materially hastening maturity. They all bear their seed or 
fruit in their season. But of the tree, slow in maturing, and 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 259 

of longer life than ours, we become naturally impatient to en- 
joy the products, and hence these devices to hasten its season 
of fruitage. Our course to this resiilt is plain. Any expedi- 
ent which checks growth without immediately endangering the 
life of the tree will effect it. 

The ordinary and legitimate means to the end are dwarfing 
(see that head), summer prmiing in June and July, or root 
pruning in August, or any other period of the year ; or we 
may combine these means, if the health of the subject prove 
obstinate. 

Whatever course may be chosen for the accomplishment of 
our object should be accompanied by a free supply of manures 
of such kinds as may not be calculated to stimulate mere wood 
growth. See Manuring Fruit-trees. 

On the other hand, if we would strengthen a tree, or any par- 
ticular part of it, we ought not to allow it, or that particular 
portion of it, to bear fruit ; we should avoid summer priming, 
and carefully invigorate it by liberal shortening at the winter 
pruning. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Diseases of Fruit-trees. — Insects injurious to Fruit and Fruit-trees, with 
Kemedies. — Washes to destroy Insects. 

DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES AND FRUITS. 
FRUIT CRACK. 

This is first indicated by the stunted appearance of the 
fruit, especially on one side, upon which a black crack or 
" chap" opens. It is accompanied by dark blotches upon the 
fruit, which are probably formed by the growth of a minute 
lichen, the fruit becoming ill-looking and Avorthless. 

This disease, or effect of disease, is found in the. pear, par- 
ticularly the Virgalieu ; in the quince also, and sometimes in 
the apple. It seems to arise from a deficiency in the supply 
of appropriate food, and is generally curable by manuring and 
careful culture. It may always be assumed that fruits subject 
to it require and will bear high cultivation. 



200 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



BLACK KNOT. 

This disease, -svliieh has ahiiost entirely (lesti'03vd the dam- 
son, the horse phini, and some other kinds, eonies at first as a 
green swelling, bulging out and spreading open with a granu- 
hited appearanee, ehanging in color till it becomes a black, 
wart-like excrescence, being, in fact, covered with minute black 
fungi, which givw and seed upon it. In general, unless ar- 
rested by cutting out, it continues to spread, cither by length- 
ening itself u}x>n the branch or baiy, or by breaking out at 
some other points. AVhen the branch is cut oft", the stain of 
the disease is found extending for some distance below the 
knot, in the substance of the wood or at the heart. 

It is perhaps more prevalent u|X)n dark-col oivd ]^lunis than 
on the yellow or green varieties, and has become connnon \\\xm 
the sour red and jNlorelk) cherries. 

There are variant opinions as to its origin and character, 
some supposing it to bo caused by an insect stinging the bark, 
A'arious worms being often found in the knots ; others reganl- 
ing it as a vegetable cancer ; but all agreeing that the only 
method of treating it is to cut it clean oft' the branches, and 
perfiH'tly out of the Ixxly and limbs in its early stages, and 
burn every vestige of the cuttings, washing the wounds with 
brine or a solution of copperas in the pwportion of one ounce 
to two gallons of water, or covering them with grafting com- 
jX)sition or shelhic. Pei'severanee in this course will be fomid 
successful in arresting at least its worst results. 

BURSTING. 

The trunks of certain fives, particularly the cheny, some- 
times open and decay upon the south side, a result attributa- 
ble to the occurrence of severe fn>st after the warmth of the 
sun's rays has started the ciivulation ujxm that side. The 
fidl sap vessels, we suppose, bm*st mechanically, as a full wa- 
ter-pipe is bursted by the same cause. Short stems help to 
pivvide against this difficulty, and trees placed so as to re- 
ceive the slightest shade are seldom banned. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 261 



LEAF-BLIGHT. 

What is called leaf-blight in the pear, plum, etc., seems to 
be merely the result of a check given to the growth by heat 
or other cause, just as the hawthorn, refusing to acclimate 
well, annually loses its foliage in the summer or early fall, 
and becomes unsightly. It may be avoided in some measure, 
if not entirely, in fruit-trees, by good culture upon deep soils, 
moderately dry. 

MILDEW. 

Mildew is an appearance of mouldiness upon the young 
growth. Among fruit-trees it prevails upon some varieties of 
peach and nectarine, and upon grape-vines of foreign kinds. 
It generally follows a check in the growth by sudden change 
of temperature, etc., which is accompanied by numbers of a 
small aphis that punctures the back of the leaf and sucks the 
diseased juices ; almost immediately the mildew proper ap- 
pears, which seems to be a very minute vegetable growth. 

It is removable by syringing or showering with a solution 
of an ounce of nitre to a gallon of water, with soap-suds, or 
lime-water, or any alkaline solution, or dusting with sulphur ; 
but in respect to foreign vines can only be effectually met by re- 
newing them every three or four years, either by layering from 
their own young shoots, or by young plants from other sources. 

SOUR-SAP BLIGHT. 

This disease is also called " fire blight," from the appear- 
ance of the tree destroyed by it ; " frozen-sap blight," from 
the theory of its being the eflFect of frost upon the chemical 
condition of the sap in overgorged vessels, and by European 
cultivators the " canker," and is described by them as result- 
ing from the sap being "corrupted by putrid water (i. e., in 
the subsoil) or excess of manure," and as working like a gan- 
grene on the parts affected. 

It is a disease of surfeit or plethora, often appearing in the 
pith near the points of very vigorous offshoots. 

The change in the sap, from Avhatever cause it may proceed, 



262 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

would seem to be a kind of acetous fermentation, running on 
to putrefactive poison, which is carried, with the very death it 
represents and includes, as far as the amount of virus produced 
enables it to spread. 

It nearly resembles the form of death that occurs so com- 
monly in young fruit-trees when planted where an old one of 
the same kind has died. 

Dwarfed trees, and those of moderate growth, as the Seckel 
and Lodge pears, &c., are seldom subject to it, but strong 
growers in moist rich soils suffer greatly, or are entirely de- 
stroyed by it. 

The selection of the less vigorous varieties, and the choice 
of dry and only moderately rich soils for the stronger growing 
kinds, may be resorted to where a choice in either respect is 
practicable. But if this can not be had, then let a careful and 
persistent system of root-pruning be pm-sued, reaching espe- 
cially to the roots that strike down into the subsoil. If the 
effect of this is seen not to be too severe upon the growth of 
the tree, and not otherwise, follow it with moderate summer 
pruning. Where it appears only in spots, the diseased portion 
should be thoroughly cut out and washed with ley, or a solu- 
tion of copperas (sulphate of iron), and afterward coated with 
grafting composition No. 3. 

YELLOWS. 

This is a jaundice or consumption in peach-trees, to which 
they have become liable within the last fifty years, constitut- 
ing the only real difficulty in raising this fruit. It is vari- 
ously accounted for, but no available remedy has been found. 
It has probably arisen from long-continued neglect of culture, 
combined with overbearing, the latter being incessantly stim- 
ulated, in addition to other causes, by the very Aveakness it 
produced. See Fruiting, page 258. A constitutional hered- 
itary weakness, or disease, has thus been induced, which, when 
fully developed, becomes perhaps the very " essentia? mortis," 
communicable by inoculation, as the virus of an animal body 
in a state of change, perhaps also by contact, or even by infec- 
tion. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 263 

Its first and sufficient indication is the too early ripening of 
the fruit upon the tree, which as yet seems to be in health. 
This is followed, probably the very next season, by the growth 
of short feeble shoots from the obscure buds of the older branch- 
es, a change in the general aspect of the foliage, still more 
prematui-e ripening or dropping of the fruit, which has now 
become darkly blotched with brown or purplish spots, beneath 
which the flesh is rotting, the tree becoming more and more 
sickly in its appearance until it dies. 

The only known palliatives, or rather preventives, are mod- 
erate manuring, ordinary summer cultivation of the ground, so 
as to secure for them regular plowing, &c,, which this tree feels 
almost as quickly as a cabbage ; the choice of an exposed situ- 
ation, to avoid winter killing, to which, in northern latitudes, 
it is liable when thus treated in warm exposm'es ; and the an- 
nual cutting back of all young shoots to one half or one third 
the length of their last season's growth, with such other win- 
ter pruning as the condition of the tree may seem to require. 

Severe winter pruning and good culture immediately after 
the occurrence of the first indication will, to all appearance, 
perfectly restore the tree ; but if these are discontinued, it re- 
tui'ns the following season to its former state. 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO FRUIT-TREES AND FRUIT. 

For general remarks upon insects and their habits, see page 
94. 

As certain plants are supposed to serve as a protection to 
vegetable crops, so certain essences, &c., hung in vials in the 
trees, have been suggested as a defense for fruits. For this 
purpose, the essences of peppermint, tansy, and pennyroyal are 
sometimes used ; also, spirits of tui^pentine against the rose 
bug, and ammonia as ofiensive to the plum weevil. 

Decoys, or wide-mouthed bottles half filled with sweetened 
water, have been used with good effect for catching wasps and 
the larger bugs ; and it is said by a recent writer that these 
are much more efficient if the mouth of the bottle be closed, and 
an entrance made by breaking a hole in the side. Once in, the 
insects do not so readily find the way out. 



264 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

For the protection of orchards, fires kindled in the evening, 
during the perfect or winged stage of insect life, are effective 
means. They may be made of brush or other rubbish, or small 
lighted tapers set in shallow pans of water may be used. Oth- 
er processes for the prevention or destruction of insects are 
given under the proper heads. 

APHIDES. 

Fig. 123. 




a, Flos Aphis ; 6, common Aphis, natural size ; c, d, various common Aphides magnified. 

Flos Aphis, Apliis (Eriosoma) Lanigera. 

Cherry " Aphis Cerasi. 

Apple " ApJds 3Iali and Malifolia. 

Grape " " Vim/era. 

Rose " " Hosce. 

The Flos Aphis, Fig. 123 a, is called in Europe, erroneous- 
ly, American blight. It is of a peculiar white, cottony ap- 
pearance, and is met with in large or small bunches, or as sin- 
gle white spots, on forest and fruit trees, and not unfrequently 
upon the roots of the latter in the nursery. The floss-like ap- 
pearance is caused by the white wavy or crinkled filament or 
tail of the insect, by the aid of which, though wingless, it is 
sometimes carried on the wind from tree to tree. An English 
writer prescribes washing with a mixture of sulphm'ic acid in 
ten times its measure of water. Tobacco smoke or infusion, or 
ley, or whale-oil soap ; or for the roots, ashes mixed in the soil, 
are efficient remedies. 

The cherry, apple, grape, and rose aphides, though distin- 
guished by writers on insects, require no distinction in their 
practical treatment. Perhaps every infected tree or plant has 
its own peculiar variety, but all are remediable by the same 
means. They are invited by disease, and also cause it. The 
remedies are those named above for the Flos Aphis, applied in 
any way that may be found convenient. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



265 



SCALE INSECTS, OR BARK LICE. 
PEAR, OR WRINKLED SCALE INSECT. Lecanium PyH. 

Fig. 124. 

a. Natural size. 

b. Magnified. 




APPLE SCALEy OR SHELL INSECT. Aspidiodotus Concliiformis. 

Fig. 125. 







a. Natural size. 
6. Magnified. 



These insects, which are sometimes called the " scale aphis," 
infest the apple, pear, mountain ash, and other trees and shrubs, 
appearing upon the bark like small white spots or scales, grad- 
ually multiplying until they sometimes cover the tree, some 
of the larger ones becoming brownish, and having a rough and 
angular, turtle-back appearance. 

If the stem of a tree infested with them be rubbed harshly 
with a gloved hand, it will appear as if smeared with blood ; 
and if the outer bark be shaved with a knife, the inner side of 
it will be found reddened with disease. 

On raising these scales in the fall or winter, they are gen- 
erally found to be pretty well filled with small reddish-brown 
eggs and the seeming remains of the insect, among which will 
sometimes be found a small worm. The scale which covers 
them is at this season of the year gray outside and silvery 
white within. 

M 



266 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Like most other foul insects, they are found only upon trees 
that have first become unhealthy. Young apple or pear trees 
set in cold, wet soils, or injudiciously manured, or injured in 
their roots, or cracked by the borer ; oleanders housed in a too 
cold or fluctuating temperature, and dusty, are especially liable 
to suffer from tlicni. A variety known as A.spidiodotus Rosce 
infests roses, &c. As any cause which stunts and diseases the 
young tree will invite these quiet but destructive pests, so any 
means that will restore health to the tree will banish them, 
among which close winter pruning, digging about it, and ap- 
plying compost or liquid manure from time to time, will be 
found most efficient ; and, as preliminary to these, let the scales 
be crushed with a hard brush or rubber of any kind, and the 
tree or plant thoroughly washed with the ley-wash, or whale- 
oil soap Avash, or a strong infusion of tobacco. See page 284. 
Let this be done in early spring, and repeated in summer if 
necessary. If, however, the subsoil be wet, and especially if 
it be at the same time level, and have the character of hard- 
pan, the insect will return, and only draining, or deep plow- 
ing, or subsoiling, with moderate manuring and annual plant- 
ing with hoed crops, as potatoes, corn, &c., at the same time 
leaving the trees abundant clear space, and using the above 
remedies as they may seem to be required, will be likely to car- 
ry them successfully past the period of danger. The small- 
er birds destroy many of these insects, but are not numerous 
enough to keep them in check. 

WORMS OR LARV^. 

APPLE-TREE BORERS. 
ft Fig. 126. 

h 



ti. Lai'va. 

b. Sapcrda bivittata, or two-striped 
beetle. 




Borer and parent bug. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 
Fig. 12T. 



267 




o. Larvo. 

6. Chrysobotliri.s (Huprcstia) femorata, or 

thick -legged suapping beetle. 
Infesting apple, quince, and Home forest 

trees. 



Borer and parent bug. 

The parent beetles of the above are of very dissimilar ap- 
pearance, though the worms are alike in habit. 

The Saperda is about three fourths of an inch long, of a light 
butternut-broAvn color, and most easily recognized by its two 
rather broad white stripes extending the whole length of the 
insect. It flies chiefly at night. 

The Chrysobothris, or snapper, is described by Fitch as " an 
oblong, brassy- blackish snapping beetle, nearly half an inch 
long, its back under the wings brilliant bluish green." It is 
most active at midday. 

Both deposit their eggs in June or July upon the bark, gen- 
erally near the ground, and the worms, when hatched, eat their 
way first to the inner bark, where they may be found in Au- 
gust or September, of the size of a wheat-kernel. Eating 
downward, they reach the sap-wood, which, with the inner bark, 
they destroy extensively. They finally enter the solid wood, 
and eat their way upward, living in the tree some two years. 
When the period of their change approaches, they make their 
way toward the outer surfiice, forming their chrysalides within 
the bark of the tree, from which the beetles make their escape 
in early summer by eating through. 

Borer, Fig. 126 a, larva of the Saperda, is a soft, full, fleshy, 
yellowish-white, cylindrical worm, about an inch long, of the 
diameter of a stout straw, or a little larger, of even thickness 
throughout, or scarcely at all tapering. It has a brown head 
and black jaws, and is marked into thirteen joints or segments. 
Upon these, both above and beneath, is a row of obscure, wart- 
like protuberances, which, with the spiracles or breathing-holes 



2G8 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

along its sides, give it somewhat the appearance of being 
striped. It is slightly hairy, footless, and not very active, roll- 
ing itself in its progress, but is very destructive to the fruit- 
trees it infests. 

Borer, Fig. 127 a, larva of the Chrysobothris, or snapper, is a 
pale yellow or very light wood-colored worm, less than an inch 
long, ringed or jointed as the former, and somewhat more 
hairy. It is soft, and generally flabby-looking, Avith dark head 
and jaws, not very prominent, immediately back of which it has 
a flattened and curiously-marked enlargement or pair of heavy 
shoulders, from which the body or tail tapers rapidly to a point. 
It is, I think, even more injurious than the former, but both re- 
quire prompt and thorough attention. 

In addition to the voluntary labors of the downy woodpecker, 
who is an active and laborious hunter of the young larvse, va- 
rious means of destruction are available. 

The beetles of both kinds should, as far as possible, be de- 
stroyed, the Saperda by means of brush fires in the orchard at 
evening, and the snapper by catching with the hand. Scrape 
the bark around the butts of the trees in August, carefully 
burning the scrapings, and destroy the young worms by a thor- 
ough washing with ley or coating with soft soap. Watch for 
the first fresh castings of the Avorm while small, and either cut 
him out, or pass a wire or pointed flexible gutta-percha probe 
up the hole to pierce him, or stifle him with camphor plugged 
into the hole, or with the fumes of burning sulphur, if they 
will reach him, or with an awl open the upper end of his bur- 
row and pour in scalding water, as suggested by Dr. Fitch. 

Piling ashes or lime around the trees in spring, or coating 
the butts for eight or ten inches with pitch or grafting compo- 
sition, will also be found useful. 

BUD WORM AND PARENT MOTH. 

Supposed to be Larva of Loxotenia Rosaceatm. 
The moth is generally about half an inch long, and of a 
light brown color, but variable. When at rest, a quadrangular 
figure is formed by several narrow brown bands upon the 
wings. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



269 




The bud worm is a small greenish worm with a ^^- ^^^• 
dark head, found just after the trees start to grow, 
rolled in the very tip of the young shoot, which it 
eats entirely away ; and later in the season, the 
same worm, or one resembling it, is found rolled 
into the rose or grape-vine leaf. He is an exceed- 
ingly active, mischievous-looking fellow, watching '^' Loxotenia 
keenly for an intruder, and dodging quickly into Rosaceana. 
his retreat when you approach him. They are not very nu- 
merous. I have supposed them to proceed from eggs which 
are found deposited singly or in small numbers in the perfo- 
rated bark of the young shoot close to the buds, though the 
Loxotenia is said to deposit her eggs upon the bark. 

Remedy : catch and crush him ; also gather the eggs. 



CANKER WORM AND PARENT MOTHS. 

Fig. 12-). 





a. Larva. 



b. Aniaopteryx Vernata (Male). 

c. " " (Female) 



The male moth is of a pale ash color, with darker spots or 
shadings. The female is dark ash-colored above and gray be- 
neath ; the latter can not fly, having mere winglets. 

The CANKER WORM is a dusky-brown or ash-colored worm, 
ten footed, and about an inch long, very destructive to apple, 
elm, and other trees. The moths leave the ground in very 
early spring, and a few may get out in the fill. They seek 
the trees in March, or at the first opening of spring, the fe- 
male crawling up and laying her eggs in the crotches and 
branches. These hatch in the latter end of May, and the 
worms spread over the tree and ravage it, sweeping an orchard 
like fire where they are very numerous. 

Remedy : banding the tree carefully with Dennis's patent 
leaden oil trough, or any substitute for it Avhich you can de- 



270 AMERICAN HOME GAEDEN. 

vise ; a projecting strip of leather fastened edgewise to the 
tree and oiled ; a tarred band around it ; or a thick, broad belt 
or band, coated with India-rubber melted by heat, which is 
quite adhesive, but does not harden. 

The birds destroy large numbers of them, and Harris says 
there is a splendid ground-beetle that watches for and catches 
them as they come down from the trees ; various parasites also 
disable the larvae, and destroy the eggs to a considerable ex- 
tent. See also page 96. 

CORE WORM AND PARENT MOTH. 
Fig. 130. 



a. Larva. b. Carpocapaa Pomonella, natural size. 

c. " , magnified. d. " " magnified. 

Moth small and grayish, with a large brown spot on the 
hinder part of the fore wings ; the smaller wings and body 
yellowish brown ; the texture of the wings appearing like 
watered silk. 

The core worm is a small, flesh-colored worm or grub, found 
in the apple-core, sometimes causing the fruit to drop prema- 
turely from the tree. 

When the apples fall, if not before, the worm leaves the fruit, 
and hides in the crevices of the bark, to spin and wait for the 
return of spring. The moth comes out in all June, and im- 
mediately deposits her eggs singly in the eye of the young 
fruit. They hatch in a few days, and the young worm pro- 
ceeds to eat in to the heart. 

Remedy : scrape the bark in the early spring, and burn the 
scrapings. Let hogs run in the orchard to eat the falling 
fruit, and every day gather what they do not eat and boil them, 
or feed them to other swine. Old cloths in the crotches of the 
trees or lying loose ai^ound will fm-nish hiding-places in which 
the worms may be caught by looking them over weekly ; also 
evening fires in the orchard in moth-time will destroy many. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



271 



NEST WORM, WITH PARENT MOTHS AND EGGS. 
Fig. 131. 




b. Clisiocampa Americana, or Lackey Moth (Male). 

c. " " '• " " (Female). 

d. Egg3 deposited on a young branch for wintering. 

The livery or lackey moth takes its name from the colors 
which mark its larvae. Its own color is a dull-red or fox color, 
with two white parallel stripes across the wings, the male 
moth being rather darker than the female. It is about an 
inch and a half across when expanded. The worm, when full 
grown, is nearly two inches long, with a black head, the body 
being variously lined and spotted with black, blue, yellow, and 
white. 

This, which is called " tent worm" by Harris, is pre-emi- 
nently the apple-tree worm of our country from Maine to 
Texas, though it affects still more the wild cherry, and is some- 
times found upon other trees to a limited extent. Its eggs are 
set on end, head outward, being glued together with softish 
gum-mucilage, and varnished over with the same. They may 
be found at any time during winter upon the young shoots, 
forming a band around them nearly an inch broad, and of a 
slate color, Fig. 131 d. 



272 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

These are hatched by the warmth of May, each nest of eggs 
producing a pretty numerous colony of worms, which at first 
are not thicker than pins, and half the length of a wheat grain. 
They soon begin to feed and grow, and make their nest, chang- 
ing their skins from time to time, and strengthening them- 
selves and enlarging their dwelling, until in June they ma- 
ture and wander off to spin their cocoons. 

The moths come out about the first of July, and in a few 
days after deposit their eggs for the next season. 

Remedies : the first and best is to collect the eggs for burn- 
ing in the fall after the trees lose their foliage, and if not at- 
tended to then, let it be done in winter or very early spring. 
The second best is to watch for the very first sign of the form- 
ation of the nests, when but little larger than a hen's egg, and, 
choosing a moist or cloudy day, either cut ofi" and burn them, 
or, armed with a thick glove, crush them ; though so small, 
they are all there. 

But, if these opportunities are neglected, there remains the 
ordinary laborious attempts to do late what might have been 
done early with ease : to gather and crush or burn them when 
nearly full grown ; to sponge them with ammonia ; to burn 
them in the nest ; to twist them out with a pronged stick, or 
swab them with turpentine, most of which can be but partial 
remedies. 

It has an enemy in a parasitic insect, the small white co- 
coons of which are often found attached to those of the worm. 
For the destruction of the moth, evening fires of brush or tar 
in the orchard at moth-time, continued for a week or two, are 
most effectual. 

Dr. Fitch suggests that perhaps the wild cherry might be 
advantageously used as a natural decoy for the protection of 
valuable orchards, being planted near, and perfectly cleared of 
the eggs every fall or winter. It would seem worthy at least 
of a trial, 

NET WORM AND PARENT MOTH. 

The color of the moth varies from yellow to brown ; the 
wings are crossed l)y four or five darker bands, and spotted 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN 



with small specks of the same, 
about the head and throat. 



273 

It is orange colored or yellow 



Fig. 132. 




a. Larva. 



b. Euinetopona ministra, or Handmaid 
moth. 



The net worm, or yellow-necked apple-tree worm somewhat 
resembles the nest worm, but comes later in the season, and, 
instead of spinning a compact nest, Aveaves a net over the limb 
on which it is feeding, and spreads it as its range enlarges, 
eating chiefly the tissue of the leaf in preference to its veins. 

The eggs are deposited in clusters upon the back of the leaf, 
near the end of the shoot, and number usually from seventy to 
a hundred, which are hatched from the middle of July to the 
middle of August. 

They are generally by no means so numerous as the nest 
worm, but more injurious in proportion to their numbers. 

Remedy : watch for their first weaving, and immediately 
crush them ; or cut off the limb and burn it. 

NOTCH WORM AND PARENT MOTHS. 
Fig. 133. 

/// ^. b 




a. Larva. 



6. Orgyia Leucostigma (Male). 



c. Orgyia Leucostigma (Female). 



Moth of a dingy brown color, the female being wingless. 
The notch worm is a pretty, slender, sixteen-footed worm, 
about an inch long, with pale yellow hairs and tufts, and black 

M2 



274 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

hair pencils, the head and two spots on the back being coral 
red. 

The small round white eggs of this species may be found 
rolled up in a dead leaf, and hanging upon the ends of the 
shoots through the winter. They hatch early in May, spin 
mostly in the latter half of July ; in about two weeks the moth 
appears, deposits her eggs in a few days, and dies. It is not 
a numerous kind, but is found upon the rose, the wistaria, &c., 
eating notches into the edges of the leaves. 

Remedy : gather and destroy the eggs in March or April, 
and catch and crush the worms. 

PALMER WORM AND PARENT MOTH. 
Fig. 134. 




a. Larva. b. Choetochilus Pometellus. 

The moth about three fourths of an inch across when spread. 
It is generally of an ash-gray color, sprinkled more<)r less 
with black, but varying very much in diflferent seasons. 

The worm is described by Fitch as of a pale yellowish green, 
with a dusky or black stripe along each side of the back ; and 
two other lines, the one being whitish, and the other dusky, 
with a shining yellow head like beeswax. 

They travel and feed scatteringly upon the tree, and drop 
and hang by their spun threads when it is jarred. 

When in force, the palmer worm is much more destructive 
than the nest or net worms, and in some sections and seasons 
becomes a scourge. It feeds in June. The moths come out 
about the second week in July. 

Remedy : drenching with water, or with whale-oil soap wash ; 
also evening fires in the orchard in moth-time. 

Many of them are destroyed by a small footless parasitic 
grub. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 275 



CHERRY WORMS OR SLUGS. 

The parent of this worm or slug is a small glossy black fly, 
Fig. 135. with transparent but cloudy wings, refleoting the 
colors of the rainbow. It appears about the first 
of June upon cherry and pear, and sometimes ap- 
Larvseofseian- pie trces. Its eggs are deposited in small punc- 
campa) cerasi. tuTCS, generally on the under side of the leaf, and 
begin to hatch in fom'teen days. The young are at first white. 
They grow to be about half an inch long, becoming greenish, 
and of a watery and sticky appearance, and eat the tissue of 
the leaves. 

' . Remedy : dust the foliage thoroughly with lime or dry wood- 
ashes when the dew is on, or syringe with whale-oil soap wash. 
These, with their kindred species infesting roses and grape 
vines, undergo various moultings, and sometimes eat up their 
cast skins. Their changes are completed in about four weeks, 
when they are yellow and free from slime, and soon after enter 
the earth. Mice, moles, birds, and their own natui'al parasite 
are their enemies. 

CURRANT WORM, OR BORER. 

LARVA OP PSENOCERTJS SUPEENOTATUS. LAEVA OP ^GEEIA TIPTTLIFOFIMIS. 

These worms eat into the pith of the currant stem, and 
weaken or destroy it. They are not very numerous except in 
certain localities, and are easily managed if all sickly and dead 
branches are promptly cut off close to the ground or the main 
stem, and burned. 

GOOSEBERRY WORM. 

This is a romid-bodied and curiously-marked measuring 
Fig. 136. worm, about an inch long, having ten 

^^^^^^^p^^^^^ legs — six in front, and four behind. 
^. -?y^-^-^^ : ^^-^^-^-'-^ - j^ gjj^^g away the leaves of the bush. 

Larva of Phalena Grossularia. ^^^ ^j^^ -^ ^^^^^ f^^^ ^^y^^^ -^^ ^j^^j^ 

like the bud worm. He suspends himself by a thread in de- 
scending from the bush. 

Remedy : gather the worms by hand and destroy them. 



276 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

SMALLER GOOSEBERRY WORM. 

LARVA OP CECIDOMTA GROSSULABI^, OE QOOSEBEERT MIDOB. 

The midge is scarcely one tenth of an inch in length, pale 
yellow, with wings that appear glassy. 

The eggs are deposited in June in the young berries, which 
color prematurely and drop off, the young worms, which are 
yellow and of an oval form, occupying the rotten inside. 

Remedy : gather all premature and dropped fruit, and boil 
or burn it. 

GRAPE WORMS. 

Besides the bud worm, mentioned p. 268 as infesting the 
grape-vine, there are other worms, more rare, but perhaps not 
less injurious, which trouble it. They are the larvae of various 
kinds of Philampelus or Sphinx moth, and either eat the leaves 
or cut the unripe fruit from the branches. The vines should 
be watched, and the depredators caught and destroyed. The 
grape slug, larva of Selandria (Blennocampa) vitis, is similar 
to the cherry and rose slugs, and may be destroyed by the same 
means, as may also the minute brown or greenish larva of Hal- 
tica chalybea, or grape-vine jumper, which sometimes feeds 
upon the young blossoms, and thus destroys the crop. 

The vine borer, Trochilium polisti/ormis, which is peculiar- 
ly destructive to grape-vines at the South, is so similar in its 
appearance, habits, and transformations through all its stages 
to the peach borer, Trochilium exitiosum, that it may perhaps 
be doubted if there is a really specific difference between them. 
All remedies for the one are available against the other. 



PEACH WORM, WITH ITS CHRYSALIS AND PARENT FLIES. 

The peach fly, which in its season may be seen busy about 
the trees, is a small wasp-like fly, of lively habit, rather more 
than half an inch long. The wings of the male are transpa- 
rent, those of the female a bright steel blue ; the bodies of both 
are of this color, the female having a cross belt of orange. Its 
eggs are deposited during the latter part of summer in the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 137. 



277 




c. Trochilium exitiosum (Male). 

d. " " (Female). 



bark of the peach-tree, just at the surface of the earth, where it 
is kept tender by contact with the soil. The worm hatches in 
a few days ; then eating its way to the inner bark, and doing 
more or less injury in the fall, according as it may have been 
hatched earlier or later in the season, it winters there. 

The warmth of spring renews its activity, and if several eggs 
have been deposited in one tree, the worms will pretty Avell 
girdle it by the end of May, about which time they begin to 
form their cocoons, the outside of which is usually covered with 
the sawdust-like castings of the worm. 

There are various easy remedies : merely banking up the 
earth, or piling wood or coal ashes or slaked shell lime a few 
inches high around the trees early in the spring, first examin- 
ing them and removing any worms that may be found, and 
again taking away the ashes or earth in the fall. Or if the 
earth be removed to the depth of three or four inches, and a 
coat of pitch or grafting composition No. 3, page 239, put on 
with a brush from this depth below to an equal distance above 
the surface level, replacing the earth that may be removed so 
as to leave the pitch collar about equally under and above 
ground, no fly will be able to deposit the egg, and of course no 
worm will be found in the root. One such application will 
last for several years, even in trees growing vigorously. They 
should, however, be examined every spring, in case the fly may 
have found an opening made by the swelling of the tree. For 
this a single glance is suificient, as the presence of the wonn is 
always, at this season, indicated by the exuding gum. The 
forks of the principal branches also require attention, the Avorm 
beina: often found in them when excluded from the root. 



278 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

The ravages of this worm may not only be prevented, but 
they may be defied and counteracted. We may stimulate the 
growth of a peach-tree so that it will form new bark faster than 
the worm can eat it, while its foliage may retain the deep green 
color of vigorous health, and its fruit be magnificent. This, 
however, is a dangerous though interesting experiment, the 
fullness of sap induced in the process exposing the tree to the 
risk of being winter-killed ; but with a hardy variety, and upon 
a northwest exposure, it has been successfully performed, with 
the worm working unchecked and severely to the height of 
eighteen inches above the ground. Any one may repeat it 
who will plant a peach-tree upon a slope in such an exposure, 
and set a hog-pen six feet above it. 

PEAE-TREE WORM AND PARENT BEETLE. 

Fig. 138. 

«. Larva, magnified. 
b. Scolytus Pyri, or pear-blight 
beetle, magnified. 

A very small beetle, of a deep brown color, with paler legs. 
Wing covers with obscurely-punctured rows. 

The worm is minute. It eats into the smaller limbs of the 
pear-tree, and, reaching the pith, works from that centre until 
a narrow section of the wood is eaten out to the bark, forming 
a circular cell, and the limb above the point of the injury droops 
and dies suddenly. 

Kemedy : cut off the limb and burn it the moment you per- 
ceive the leaves to droop. 

PLUM WORM, WITH PARENT BUG. 

rig. 139. 



a. Larva. 

6. Conotrachelus Nenuphar, 
c. Conotrachelus Nenuphar at 
work upon a young plum. 





AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 279 

The plum worm is the larva of a small winged insect known 
as the cm"culio. It is a small dark brown or blackish beetle or 
bug, somewhat resembling in size and appearance the pea bug, 
except that it is rather more lightly built, and has a small 
dark raised spot or hump upon each wing. It makes its appear- 
ance late in the time of blossoms, and soon after the young fruit 
sets it cuts up upon it a small semicircular piece of the skin 
with its minute but keen forceps, and, leaving this like an apron, 
deposits a single egg beneath it, and close to its inner line. 
Protected by its slight covering, the egg is hatched in a few 
days, and the young worm eats its way imtil it reaches the pit. 
The fruit sickens and drops from the tree, generally before it is 
half grown, more or less of it continuing to drop until the time 
of ripening, when one side of the falling fruit is usually found 
to have rotted. 

When the fruit falls the worm leaves it and hides itself in 
the earth, to return in its winged form in time for the next 
year's crop. Those that enter the ground as early as June and 
July are supposed to pass through their changes and reappear 
in the fall, and some think they all come out before winter, 
and, failing to find their favorite fruit, deposit eggs for the 
spring brood in the bark of the young shoots of plum, pear, or 
peach trees. Dr. Fitch seems to favor this view, which, he 
says, was held by the Rev. F. V. Melscheimer, of Pennsylvania, 
fifty years ago, and is just now revived, though not fully con- 
firmed. 

This is one of the most fatally injurious of our insect ene- 
mies, and there is really no known and certain preventive or 
remedy. Sowing salt sparingly around the trees, say a quart 
to a tree, spread over a space twenty feet square, is useful not 
only as being olSensive to the insects, but also conducive to the 
health of the tree. Ashes and soap-suds will also be found in 
this respect valuable. Sulphur, though useless when inserted 
in the tree as sometimes prescribed, might possibly be of serv- 
ice sown over it, repeating the dose if it should be washed off 
by rain. Perhaps, also, plaster may be worthy of a trial. 

Early in the morning they are comparatively helpless, and 
may be caught by spreading a sheet under the tree, into which 



280 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

they will fall if the tree is suddenly jarred by a smart stroke 
with a mallet upon its body, or by a blow with a hammer upon 
the end of the stump of a branch cut off for this purpose, which 
may remain from year to year, being covered in the intervals 
of its use with grafting composition No. 3. 

When the insects drop they instantly fold themselves up as 
closely as possible, and appear like the small dead buds or 
scales that fall with them, so that to secure them the whole 
gatherings of the sheet should be burned or scalded. 

Careful attention given to the trees in this manner from the 
time the fruit sets imtil it is one fourth grown will generally 
secure the crop ; but the most promising known mode is to 
pave closely imder the trees, with clam or oyster shells of more 
convenient than other material, or plant them so that their 
tops lean over water ; the instinct of the insect leading it to 
avoid depositing its eggs in fruit from which, when they drop, 
its progeny can find no safe retreat. 

These latter precautions have in numerous instances and in 
intelligent hands proved successful, and are worthy of careful 
trial. Whatever else is done, however, the falling fruit should 
be gathered up daily and boiled or burned ; mere scalding 
should not be trusted. Hogs, unless starved, will not eat 
them. Hens with broods of chickens destroy numbers of the 
young worms where the ground is clear, so that they can 
scratch freely, but are not to be expected to extirpate them, 
especially if there are hiding-places near. 

This insect, or some other of similar habit, infests the cherry 
and the apple ; the cherry, however, does not drop as the 
plum, and in the apple the young worm does not seek the 
heart of the fruit, as the core worm, but burrows around irreg- 
ularly just under the skin, so that when peeled the apple 
shows a net- work of brown lines. 

WINGED INSECTS. 
SEVENTEEN-YExiR LOCUST, OR CICADA SEPTEMDECIM. 

Of this remarkable insect there are quite a number of sepa- 
rate broods or swarms, each having its particular section or 
district. They do not appear simultaneously. The northern- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



281 




most brood, occupying East- Fig. i40. 

ern New York, a part of 
Connecticut, with a portion 
of New Jersey and Pennsyl- 
vania, appeared last in 1843, 
and is therefore due in 1860 ; 
while the brood occupying 
Western New York, and 
Pennsylvania, and Eastern 
Ohio, appearol last in 1849, 
and is due in 1866. 

They are a little larger 
than the common summer locust (Cicada canicularis), and 
their note, though similar, is stronger and more shrill. 

They are black, with red eyes and transparent wings and 
wing covers, the edges and veins of which are orange red, and 
having the peculiar dark zigzag line resembling a W, which 
superstition regarded as an omen of coming war in times when 
wars were so frequent that it could never be mistaken. 

They appear suddenly in the month of June, coming out of 
the ground as if in a single night. At this time they are in 
the pupa state, being incased in a thin transparent membrane 
or shell, which in a few hours after they reach the surface 
cracks open along the back, and the perfect insects come forth. 
They are at first feeble and sluggish, but soon gain strength, 
and the males, who alone carry the music, make the woods re- 
sound with their shrill notes. 

The chief apparent injm-y done by them is in depositing 
their eggs in the young branches, particularly of oak and ap- 
ple trees. This operation is performed by cutting up the 
wood of the branch in successive thin slices or splinters, very 
much as in old times a carpenter commenced the opening of a 
long, narrow mortice ; under these splinters a double row of 
eggs is set, to the number of fifteen or twenty ; similar nests 
are formed until all the eggs are deposited, one individual de- 
positing four or five hundred. Most of the branches die above 
the wound, and snap ofi" with the wind either before or after 
the eggs are hatched, the whole operation becoming a very se- 



282 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

vere summer pruning, which in some cases threatens serious 
injury, though in others the unsightliness produced is the 
only evil. 

The young larvae, when first hatched, are about one twentieth 
of an inch long, yellowish white in color, with eyes and claws 
tinged with red. They immediately drop from the tree, un- 
less the branches have previously fallen, and enter the ground 
for their long imprisonment, and are supposed by some to do 
extensive though unseen injury to the roots of trees during 
their progress to their mature condition. 

They are peculiarly a woodland insect, not being produced 
upon the prairies of the West, and disappearing from culti- 
vated fields. Certain insects, birds, and probably vermin, de- 
stroy them in their various stages, so that, although the num- 
ber hatched seems incalculable, they do not, on the whole, ad- 
vance in numbers, but probably rather recede. 

ROSE BUG, OR MACRODACTYLUS SUBSPINOSA. 

Fig. 141. This is an insect of the beetle tribe, about 

half an inch long, of a yellowish-brown color, 
having, like the May-bug, a pair of gauze wings 
protected by hard coverings, and large feet 
that feel like claws when they touch the skin. 
, , , They appear suddenly in June, and continue for 

a. Insect perfected. ^ i i u ' 

h. Eggs as deposited a fcw wccks, whcu the fcmalcs crawl into the 
in the earth. ground, whcrc they deposit about thirty eggs, 
which are whitish and almost globular. These hatch in about 
twenty days, and the young grow to their full size before win- 
ter. At the approach of severe weather they descend into the 
ground below the reach of frost, and become torpid. Reviving 
in the spring, and working their way back to the sm'face, un- 
dergoing in the mean time some changes, they come out to 
their accustomed work at the usual season, all prepared for 
mischief. 

They are voracious yet dainty feeders, preferring the blos- 
soms of the rose and the grape, and the ripening fruit of 
the cherry, which they utterly destroy ; but when these can 
not be had, stripping the linden and cheiry trees of their 




AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 283 

foliage, sometimes hanging in clusters upon the denuded 
branches. 

Like most other insects, they have enemies. The darning- 
needle, perhaps some birds, and domestic fowls to a limited ex- 
tent, destroy them. The latter are said to be sometimes in- 
jured by them ; it may be from irritation of the throat, &c., 
caused by their rough claws. 

They are generally so numerous, however, that these ene- 
mies make no perceptible diminution in their ravages, nor has 
any efiectual remedy for them been found. Net coverings are, 
of course, a perfect defense, and grape-vines may be protected 
by sowing plaster freely over them in the morning when the 
rose bug first comes, repeating the application if washed off by 
rain. It seems to annoy and stupefy them, perhaps interfering 
with their respiration. It does not, however, destroy them ; 
the only process which really effects this is to gather them by 
hand into a pan of water every morning, or beat them into 
sheets spread to catch them, and either crush, or drown, or 
burn them. 

This process is made easier by being performed at once on 
their first appearance. They are then found mostly in pairs, 
and are sluggish and readily caught. 

VARIOUS WASHES TO DESTROY INSECTS. 
Washes to destroy insect life are mostly either saline, or 
poisonous, or alkaline, and, unless used with caution and mod- 
eration, become also dangerous to the health or life of the plant 
to which they are applied. It is better to use them in the 
evening or in cloudy weather than in bright sun, and to re- 
peat the application than to make it only once and too strong. 
Should this be done by accident, water immediately and freely. 

NO. 1. BRINE WASH. 

This may be made either a saturated solution, as the old 
brine of meat-barrels, or weakened by adding one third water. 
In either case, apply it moderately with a swab or brush to the 
bark of strong trees only. It destroys some insects and much 
fungous growth. 



284 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

NO, 2. SOAP-SUDS. 
Suds made strong, either with hard or soft soap ; the prod- 
uct of the wash-tub ; they may be freely and safely applied 
as above directed, and ashes may be added to strengthen them, 
if necessary. 

NO. 3. LEY WASH. 

1 pound potash or soda. 

4 gallons of water. 
Dissolve thoroughly, and apply it moderately with a swab 
or brush at the approach of rain. It destroys eggs and insects. 
If used for the scale or shell bark-louse, use a hard brush, or a 
Manilla glove, or swab, or a rubber of the cocoanut husk, 

NO. 4. SOFT SOAP WASH. 

This is either common soft soap of the stores smeared on to 
the tree, or laid in its crotches to be washed gradually over it 
by the rains, or it is this diluted with an equal measure of 
water, or twice its measure of the tobacco Avater, No. 6. 

NO. 5. WHALE-OIL SOAP WASH. 

^ 2 pounds whale-oil soap, 
15 gallons water, or tobacco water. No, 6, 

To be well stirred, and applied with swab, brush, or 
syringe. 

Whale-oil soap is simply an alkaline residuum formed in the 
process of bleaching common oils, varying in strength accord- 
ing as potash or soda may be used for the purpose. The wash 
made in the proportions here directed is generally milder, and 
therefore safer, than No, 3, especially if the latter be made 
with potash. 

NO, 6. TOBACCO WATER. 

1 pound refuse tobacco. 
10 gallons of water. 
If the water be poured on when boiling, and it be repeatedly 
stirred, it may be used when cool. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 285 

If cold water is used, let it stand in a vessel for a week be- 
fore using, stirring it often. 

It may be applied in the usual manner, or the plants or 
young shoots infested with the aphis may be dipped into it 
for a few moments, and, after draining off, should be thorough- 
ly showered with clear water. 

NO, 7. TOBACCO WASH. 

2 pounds leaf or cut tobacco, or common snuff. 

2 pounds potash or soda. 
20 gallons of water. 

Boil and stir it till reduced to about fifteen gallons. Stir 
it immediately before using it, and apply it cool with a brush 
or swab for the destruction of the scale insect. 

NO. 8. SULPHUR PAINT. 

1 pound flour of sulphur. 

6 quarts of soft soap. 
Reduce to the consistence of paint with tobacco water No. 6. 
Apply it with a brush or swab to trees infested with the scale 
insect or bark louse, and if a hard brush or rubber is used, so 
much the better. 

NO. 9. SULPHUR WASH FOR GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, &C. 

1 pound soap. 

^ pound sulphur. 

i pound Scotch snuff. 

1 ounce powdered nux vomica. 

3 gallons of water. 

Boil and stir it for half an hour ; let it cool. 

Dip the plant into it for a few moments, or apply the wash 
with a sponge or brush. Place the plant so that the wash will 
not drain into the pot, and in fifteen minutes syringe or show- 
er it thoroughly Avith clear water. 

FIELD MICE. 

In light warm soils field mice are often very destructive to 
young fruit-trees by girdling them at or near the surface of 



286 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

the earth, particularly when the snow lies long upon the 
ground, or the grass is suffered to grow thickly around the 
trees, or if they are mulched in the fall, so that nesting-places 
and materials are furnished. 

Digging round the trees in the fall, and keeping them clear, 
may often prevent the injury. The snow also should be trod- 
den hard around them. If these precautions are not found 
sufficient, a coat of pitch, or grafting composition No. 3, may 
be put on for six or eight inches above the ground, and an inch 
or two below. In cases of great exposui'e, pieces of lath set on 
end firmly around the stem, and tied on until spring, will pro- 
tect them ; or rolled tin or thin sheet iron may be sprung 
around them, which, if carefully dried in spring and put away, 
will last for years. A good cat or small terrier dog will hunt 
them pretty effectually, and black snakes are said to catch 
them. 

If trees are severely injured, or even entirely girdled, they 
may yet be saved by making three or four clean, smooth cuts 
across the girdle, just as you would cut to put on a patch bud- 
graft, but broader, and fitting nicely to them corresponding 
pieces cut from the same or some other tree, as you Avould cut 
the bud from its scion ; and it will aid you in the operation if 
a little wood is taken with the bark, so that you can ever so 
slightly interlock them with a short tongue, as in grafting. 
Having put on two or more of these, according to the size and 
necessities of the tree, bind them carefully and fii'mly, and 
cover them completely with grafting composition No. 3, and 
your tree will live. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Fruits in alphabetical Order, in their Varieties, with Descriptions and Di- 
rections for their Culture. 

FRUITS. 

In preparing the following selections of the more important 
fruits, an effort has been made to limit the number of varieties, 
and yet not exclude any desirable peculiarity belonging to 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



287 



Fig. 142. 



either class. The lists comprise but fifty kinds of apples, forty 
of pears, twenty-four of peaches, twenty-five of plums, and six- 
teen of cherries. 

These may appear meagre assortments from the almost in- 
numerable existing varieties, but the wants they will not meet 
are not likely to be satisfied by the mere multiplication of 
kinds. Neither, though carefully chosen, are they given with 
the idea of selections being rigidly confined to them ; other 
kinds of similar character may be substituted for any or all of 
them, at the pleasure of the cultivator. 

ALMOND. 
Amygdalus Communis. 

The almond is a variety of the peach, or, more properly, the 
peach is an almond improved by 
cultivation, the almond consist- 
ing only of the pit or nut and the 
skin, which cracks open when 
ripe. 

They are raised and cultivated 
in all respects as peach-trees, and 
will generally succeed in a meas- 
ure where that fruit will ripen, 
but are best suited with a warm 
soil and southern climate. 

The bitter almond and the peach-pit alike afford prussic 
acid, but the large sweet almond is an excellent nut, though 
hard to digest, on which account it should be eaten with 
raisins. 

There are also double-flowering varieties, the dwarf double 
being a universal favorite, easily increased by offshoots or 
layers. 

Seedlings of the bitter almond are used to some extent in 
France as stocks for budding peaches on, being thought hardier 
and more enduring than seedlings of the peach. 




a. A branch in blossom. 
6. " in fruit. 



288 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

APPLES. 

The varieties of apples are so numerous and diversified that 
while it would seem as if all tastes, soils, and localities might 
be suited, there is, on this very account, some difficulty in 
making a selection. 

In addition, therefore, to the information given in the sub- 
joined lists of kinds, and the suggestions in reference to the 
selection of fruit, page 192, little aid can be afforded in mak- 
ing choice of varieties. 

In general, and particularly to the northward, except for lo- 
calities within easy reach of a market, it will be found wise to 
plant the late fall and winter varieties more largely than the 
earlier kinds, and acid or subacid fruits rather than sweet 
ones. 

In respect to soil, some varieties will not bear a sandy, and 
others will not do well upon a clay soil, but almost every va- 
riety will succeed upon a moderately deep loam, if the climate 
of the locality is such as to suit them ; and even upon soils 
comparatively cold and wet, good fruit may be raised if atten- 
tion is given to carrying off the superabundant water by means 
of open drains made with the plow. Efficient under-draining 
will be found still better, and all land having clay or hardpan 
underneath, upon which the orchard is to be planted, if not 
under-drained, should first be thoroughly subsoiled or trench- 
plowed. 

In orchard culture, in good soils, apple trees should not stand 
less than forty feet apart every way. When dwarfed for gar- 
den culture or for combination they may be set from ten to 
twelve feet apart, and should be regularly summer pruned by 
nipping the ends of the young shoots through the season, and 
in the winter pruning should be cut back only just enough to 
preserve the vigor and symmetry of the tree. See Pruning, 
page 253-4. 

Apples have become of late, more than ever, one of the neces- 
saries of life, and every person should, if possible, so arrange 
the varieties selected as to secure to his family the enjoyment 
of them throughout the year. This may be accomplished by 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 28y 

the choice of a very few first-rate kinds, such as in their times 
of ripening will just overlap one another, beginning with the 
earliest, and running through to the latest variety. 

Those intended for keeping, whether of the summer and fall 
or winter and spring varieties, should be gathered a little be- 
fore they become ripe, and be carefully stored in a cool, dry 
room or cellar. By this means the earlier kinds may be kept 
into the fall, and fall varieties until near New Year. 

In gathering the general crop, the russetings should be 
picked first, and in succession the other late-keeping varieties, 
back to those intended for early winter use, unless we may ex- 
cept from this order any particular variety which, if left upon 
the tree, might be in special danger from winds. 

From necessity, apples are sometimes buried or binned in 
mass ; but it is better, if possible, to store them in headed 
barrels^ in a dry, well-aired cellar, sorting out all that are de- 
fective at least once during winter. For those of choice vari- 
eties or of special beauty, each fruit should be wrapped in thin 
Manilla paper, and placed by hand singly and closely in the 
barrel, filling in as you go, if convenient, with dry chafi", or 
buckwheat bran, or powdered charcoal, or plaster, or clean dried 
sand, or tasteless, inodorous sawdust. All these, however, may 
be dispensed with, simply heading the barrel well up, and han- 
dling it carefully. 

The general modes in which apples are used need not be 
enumerated here ; but the daily use of them in the form of 
baked, or rather stewed apples, is so generally agreeable, and 
so conducive to health at those seasons when other fruits can 
only be had in the less wholesome form of preserves, that it may 
be recommended for universal adoption. For this purpose, the 
apples are selected perfectly sound and free from worms, and 
are either washed or wiped clean, and placed in a covered pot 
or stewpan, with water and molasses in the proportion of a quart 
of the former and a gill of the latter, or four table- spoonfuls of 
sugar to half a peck of fruit, adding orange-peel, or sliced lem- 
on, or ginger, or other flavoring according to taste. They are 
then boiled over a slow fire until the remaining sirup is about 
equal to the quantity of molasses used at first, the fruit being 

N 



290 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

watched and changed from top to bottom, to give each apple a 
chance for perfect and equal cooking, which will ordinarily be 
accomplished in about an hour. 

SELECTION OF FIFTY KINDS. 

The varieties named below are arranged nearly in the order 
in which they will be found to ripen under equal circumstances 
in any given latitude. Their general times of ripening at 
New York are stated, in order to afford a kind of fixed point 
from which to calculate for other localities. They are classed 
as small, as the early strawberry ; medium sized, as the Van- 
dervere ; or large, as the fall pippin ; in respect to flavor, as 
acid, subacid, and sweet. Apples and other fruits are liable to 
vary considerably in form, coloring, and general appearance, as 
well as quality and flavor, in different soils and climates, but in 
general the outlines will afford an accurate idea of their figure. 

1. EARLY MAY. 
Fig. 143. 




Tree of moderate and rather upright growth, forming a pretty 
compact head, and bearing well. 

Fruit very small, almost round, green, becoming yellowish 
Avhite when ripe. Flesh white, tender, and not very juicy. 
Flavor mild subacid. Ripens about the last of June at New 
York ; its name is Virginian, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



291 



2, EARLY STRAWBERRY. 

Fig. 144. 




Tree erect, and of medium vigor ; young shoots dark ; a free 
bearer. 

Fruit small, roundish or semiconical, yellowish green, with 
some lively red stripes ; ripens about the middle of July. Flesh 
white, sometimes slightly veined with red. Flavor sprightly, 
subacid, with some little aroma. 

3. EARLY HARVEST {Fig. 145). 

Tree very thrifty, making numerous long shoots, forming a 
rather spreading yet bushy head that requires thinning. 
Needs and deserves high culture. 

Fruit above medium, round, skin very smooth, greenish 
white, changing to straw color as it ripens. 

Flesh Avhite, tender, crisp, and juicy. 

Flavor fine, sprightly acid. Ripens from the latter part of 
July to the middle of August. 



292 



AMERICAN HOME (iARDEN. 
Fig. 145. 




4. SWEET BOUGH, 
Fig. 146. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



293 



Tree of moderate growth, making a rather round head, and 
bearing fair crops. Young shoots yellowish. 

Fruit above medium ; roundish, to obtuse conical ; yellow- 
ish-white, with occasionally a blush cheek. 

Flesh white, tender, and tolerably juicy ; skin tough. 

Flavor a fine, rich sweet, especially when permitted to ma- 
ture perfectly upon the tree. 

Ripening from last of July to middle of August. 



5, RED ASTRACHAN. 

Fig. 147. 




Tree a fine, vigorous grower, rather upright, and round 
head ; hardy and productive in almost every variety of soil 
and climate. 

Fruit above medium ; roundish ; flattened ; greenish -yellow 
in the shade, but mostly bright crimson, overspread with a 
fine white rich bloom. 

Flesh pm-e white, tender, and crisp, with an abundant juici- 
ness, which it loses if it be not gathered early. 

Flavor a brisk and rather sharp, but agreeable acid. 

Ripens in July and to the middle of August. 



294 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



6. SUMMER ROSE. 

Fig. 148. 




Tree of moderate growth and roundish form, bearing well. 

Fruit small, roundish, somewhat flattened, pale yellow, 
blotched and striped with red on the sunny side. 

Flesh white, tender, and juicy. 

Flavor fine, pleasant subacid. Ripens early in August, and 
continues for some time. 

In certain localities, where it may have been tested, the Be- 
noni, which is an eastern apple of about the same size and 
season as the Summer Rose, may be substituted for it. It is 
a deep red fruit, of pleasant subacid flavor, and the tree grows 
and bears well. 

7. WILLIAMS'S FAVORITE. 

Tree of medium vigor, and good bearer, but greatly benefited 
by deep soil and high culture. 

Fruit of medium size, sometimes pretty large, oblong-ovate, 
inclining to conical, almost covered with bright red stripes, 
deepening to crimson in the sun ; a fruit of fine appearance. 

Flesh yellowish -white, moderately juicy and tender. 

Flavor mild, agreeable subacid. Ripe in August. 



\MERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 149. 



295 




8. SUMMER PIPPIN {Fig. 150). 

Tree of strong growth and spreading habit; young shoots 
light brown ; a fair though not heavy bearer. 

Fruit large, roundish, deep goklen yellow ; liable to crack 
when over-ripened on the tree. 

Flesh white, tender, juicy. 

Flavor fine clear acid. Ripens irregularly through August 
and September, or later. 

The Summer Pippin, which, on trees in full bearing, does 
not usually average the size represented by the figure, is val- 
uable as a family fruit, where it can be used for cooking, as it 
matures along through the fall, but its irregularity in ripen- 
ing renders it less suitable for marketing. It is a rather 
old and fivorite variety, extensively known as the Holland Pip- 
pin ; but, except in certain localities, or Avith persons who have 
a particular fancy for it, other newer and more desirable va- 
rieties will supersede it. 



296 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fisr. 15(1. 




9. GLOUCESTER CHEESE. 

Fijr. 151. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 297 

Tree strong-growing, compact, and bearing well. 

Fruit large, roundish, flattened ; bright red, with indistinct 
stripes of a lighter shade. 

Flesh white, crisp, but mealy when over-ripened. 

Flavor mild subacid, agreeable and rich. Ripening in Au- 
gust and September. 

10. AMERICAN PEARMAIN. 
Fig. 152. 




Tree appearing strong and vigorous, yet really of rather 
slow growth ; somewhat spreading, and a good bearer. It is 
suited with a sandy soil. 

Fruit rather large, oblong ; greenish yellow, with some thin 
russet; dull red on the sunny side, obscurely striped and 
clouded. 

Flesh yellowish, and pretty firm, with slight mealiness when 
quite ripe. 

Flavor mild, rich subacid. Ripens in August and Septem- 
ber. 

^ -2 



298 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



11. JERSEY SWEETING. 
Fig. 153. 




Tree of strong growth while young, making a rather up- 
right, compact, rounded head, and bearing abundantly. Not 
a long-lived tree. 

Fruit medium, roundish, conical, greenish -yellow, with 
blush cheek, or striped. 

Flesh whitish, tender, and juicy. 

Flavor high, rich, and sweet. Ripening through August 
and September. 

12. maiden's blush. 

Tree of pretty strong spreading growth, and an abundant 
bearer. 

Fruit somewhat above medium, flattened, or nearly cheese 
form ; clear light yellow, with a brilliant blush cheek. 

Flesh white, crisp, very tender and juicy. 

Flavor moderately acid. Ripens from August to October. 

The Maiden's Blush so nearly resembles in appearance and 
character the Hawthornden, a favorite Scotch apple, that it is 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



299 



difficult to avoid the conclusion that the one is a sub-variety 
of the other ; the latter is a little fuller in the eye than the 
foiTner, but both are beautiful, productive, and valuable. Their 
clear, but not strong acid, fits them for making pies of special 
excellence, and for this purpose they may be gathered from 
early summer to quite late fall ; they are also, on account of 
their form and character, superior for peeling and drying. 



Fig. 154. 




13. PORTER {Fig. 155). 

Tree erect, and of fine, rapid growth, requiring care to keep 
the head sufficiently open ; healthful, and a good bearer. 

Fruit medium, or above ; regular oblong conical ; yellow, 
with red upon the sunny side. 

Flesh white, tender, juicy. 

Flavor fine mild subacid to acid. 

Ripens in September and October, 

The Porter is a favorite in Boston and vicinity, and succeeds 
well throughout the North, where it is used both for eating out 
of hand and cooking ; for the latter use, the Keswick Codlin, 
which in general form and color somewhat resembles it, may 
be profitably substituted for it at the West, It is a heavy 



300 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



bearer, even upon young trees, and, like the Maiden's Blush 
and Hawthornden, may be used throughout the season, or dried 
for winter and spring. 



Fig. 155, 




14. GRAVENSTEIN. 

Tree of vigorous growth, and regular though expanding hab- 
it. A good bearer. 

Fruit large, roundish, flattened ; yellow, with orange por- 
tions, splashed and marbled with much red, having also a few 
green dots. 

Flesh yellowish-white, crisp, and juicy. 

Flavor fine subacid to vinous. Ripens in September and 
October. It deserves and finds favor every where as an acqui- 
sition to the garden and orchard. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig 156. 



301 




15. HAWLEY. 

Fig 157. 




;;02 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Tree strong and spreading ; a good and constant bearer. 

Fruit large, round, flattened, occasionally unequal-sided ; 
yellow, sometimes with a slight blush ; in certain soils and 
localities subject to bitter rot. 

Flesh yellowish, firm, crisp, and juicy. 

Flavor fine rich subacid. Ripens in October, and keeps to 
the middle of December. 



16. FALL PIPPIN. 
Fig. 168. 




Tree strong and spreading ; mostly crooked while young ; a 
good bearer, but apt to be imperfect unless under good culture 
and in a genial climate. 

Fruit large, roundish, sometimes slightly ribbed ; clear yel- 
low, rarely with a faint blush. 

Flesh yellowish-white, tender, firm, and juicy. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



303 



Flavor high, aromatic, rich subacid. Ripens from October 
to December. 



17. PAMEUSE. 
Fig. 15'J. 




Tree of only moderate vigor, with dark shoots ; rather spread- 
ing ; with good soil and culture it bears well. It is suited to 
northern latitudes. 

Fruit medium or below, fair, roundish ; greenish - yellow, 
streaked and blotched with various red. 

Flesh very white and tender. 

Flavor light acid, with some perfume. Ripens from Octo- 
ber to December. 

18. MOTHER {Fig. 160). 

Tree of moderate growth, bearing well and constantly. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish, oblong, or conical ; rich 
red upon yellow, with deeper red on portions of the sunny side. 

Flesh yellow, tender, and juicy. 

Flavor of a mild subacid, sugary character, rich and spicy. 
Ripens from October to January. 



304 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 160. 




19. VANDERVERB. 

Fig. 161. 




"^ »'^ 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 305 

Tree rather spreading, a moderate grower, and a good bearer 
in warm soils and localities ; much benefited by high culture. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish-flattened ; yellow or or- 
ange, with much red in the sun, but variable, being some- 
times wax-like and of exquisite beauty. 

Flesh yellow, firm, and not very juicy. 

Flavor mild, rich subacid, of the highest quality. Ripens 
from October to January. 

20. DYER. 

Fig. 162. 




Tree of spreading habit and but moderate growth ; a tolera- 
ble bearer. 

Fruit pretty large, roundish, slightly flattened ; whitish, 
with a faint blush. 

Flesh yellowish-white, crisp, and tender. 

Flavor mild, sprightly subacid : excellent. Ripens from Oc- 
tober to January. 



3U0 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

21. HUBBARDSTON NONSUCH. 

FiL'. 1G3. 




Tree strong, with expanding branches, and rather slender, 
grayish young shoots ; an abundant bearer. 

Fruit above medium, roundish-ovate ; yellow and orange, 
almost covered with red stripes, and having in general a little 
russet near the stem. 

Flesh yellowish, firm, tender, and moderately juicy. 

Flavor fine aromatic subacid. Ripens from November to 
January. 

22. MINISTER. 

Tree moderately free in growth, with flexuous young shoots ; 
very productive. 

Fruit above medium, oblong-ovate or conical ; greenish-yel- 
low, striped and dashed with red. 

Flesh yellowish-white, so tender as to require special care 
in handling. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



307 



Flavor pleasant, having a certain resemblance to the light, 
sprightly acid of a natural or wild fniit. Ripens from No- 
vember to January. 



I'ig. 104. 




23. HURLBUT {Fi(j. 105). 

Tree of vigorous growth, and a great bearer. 

Fruit medium or below, roundish-conical ; yellow, almost 
covered with rather deep red, and having some russet around 
the stem. 

Flesh yellowish-white, firm, not very juicy. 

Flavor mild subacid, slightly aromatic, and very pleasant. 
Ripens from November to January. 



308 



AMERICAN HOME GAIIDEN. 

vvj. ion. 




24. MALE CARLE. 
Fig. 1C6 




Tree pretty strong, but varying much in its growth with 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



yoy 



soil and climate ; a pretty good bearer ; suited to warm lati- 
tudes. 

Fruit medium to large, nearly globular ; light yellow, with 
crimson cheek. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, and tender. 

Flavor rose perfume, mingled -vvith a fine subacid. Ripeng 
from November to January. 

25. CHANDLER. 
Fig. 167. 




Tree of moderate growth, but bearing heavily, requiring 
high culture and thinning of the crop while young to avoid a 
large proportion of imperfect fruit. 

Fruit large, round, flattened, oblique ; covered with dull red 
upon a greenish ground. 

Flesh white, firm, and rather coarse. 

Flavor mild subacid, rather rich, pleasant, and excellent. 
Ripens from November to February. 

An apple of very fine appearance and character when per- 
fect. 



310 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



26. peck's pleasant. 

Fig. 16S. 



Tree a moderate and rather compact grower, and good beai*- 
er, but requiring high culture. 

Fruit rather large, roundish, flattened ; yellow when ripe, 
with a blush cheek and a few gray dots. 

Flesh yellowish-white, juicy, tender, and crisp. 

Flavor a fine high subacid. Ripens from November to Feb- 
ruary, or later. 

27. JONATHAN. 

Tree vigorous, of spreading or drooping habit, and, under 
high culture, very productive. 

Fruit medium or below, roundish - conical ; clear yellow 
ground, nearly covered with red of various shades. 

Flesh yellowish- white, sometimes pinkish near the surface ; 
juicy, and very tender. 

Flavor lively subacid. Ripe from November to February. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 169. 



311 




28. RAMBO. 

Fig. 170. 




Tree rather upright, of slow growth, but a good bearer. 



312 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fruit medium, round, flattened, nearly cheese form ; green- 
ish-yellow, with some thin russet and a brownish cheek. 

Flesh greenish- white, fii'm, and moderately juicy. 

Flavor fine, clear subacid, of considerable richness. Ripens 
from November to Febiniary. 

Best south of New York ; it is the popular Seek-no-further 
of the Philadelphia markets. 

29. WESTFIELD SEEK-NO-PURTHER. 

Fig. 171. 




Tree of fine vigorous growth, and an excellent bearer. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish-conical ; dull red over yel- 
lowish-green ground, with russet dots or patches ; variable ; 
occasionally subject to bitter rot. 

Flesh yellowish-white, fine-grained, tender, and crisp. 

Flavor mild subacid, peculiar and excellent. Ripening from 
November to February. 

30. BROADWELL SWEET. 

Tree spreading, of strong growth, with yellowish young 
shoots ; a good bearer. 

Fruit rather large, roundish -conical or flattened; skin 
smooth, greenish-yellow, bronzed in the sun. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 1T3. 



313 




Flesh white, tender, and juicy. 

Flavor fine, sweet, and often rich. Ripens from November 
to February, or later. 

This is a new and excellent winter sweet apple, a native of 
Southern Ohio. , 

31. AMERICAN GOLDEN RUSSET {Fig. 173). 

Tree erect and moderately thrifty ; young shoots drab color ; 
bears fair and constant crops, and is well suited with high 
culture. 

Fruit small, conical or roundish-ovate ; dull yellow, covered 
with thin russet. 

Flesh yellowish, very tender and juicy, almost melting when 
fully ripe. 

Flavor mild subacid, with a fine rich spiciness. Ripens 
from November to February. 

The American Golden Russet is small, but of superior qual- 
ity, and especially worthy of extensive garden culture. In 
cold soils and localities it sometimes fails to ripen, and is 
then inferior. 

O 



314 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 173. 




32. WAGENER. 

Fig. 1T4. 




Tree of vigorous growth; young shoots green; a regular 
and fair bearer ; will repay care and high culture. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish, flattened, and often ribbed 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



315 



or irregular ; yellow, covered with stripes and shadings of light 
and dai-k red, mingled with russet spots or streaks. 

Flesh yellowish-white, fine-grained, tender, firm, and juicy. 

Flavor subacid, with a vinous sprightliness, and some aro- 
ma. Ripens from November to last of February, or later. 

33. RHODE ISLAND GREENING. 
Fig. 175. 




Tree of fine, strong growth, often crooked while young, but 
forming a fine spreading, symmetrical head ; hardy, and bear- 
ing heavy crops of perfect fruit. 

Fruit above medium, often large, round, very slightly coni- 
cal ; skin rough, with spots of semi-russet ; green, becoming 
dull yellow when perfectly ripe. 

Flesh yellowish, tender, crisp, breaking, and juicy. 

Flavor clear, sprightly, rich acid. Ripens from November 
to March. 

34. YELLOW BELLE FLEUR. 

Tree thrifty, rather upright, with yellowish young shoots ; 
a fair bearer, requiring good soil and a rather warm climate. 



316 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 176. 




Fruit quite large, long, ovate-conical, irregular ; of a lemon- 
yellow color, with a very slight blush. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, tender, and crisp. 

Flavor mild, pleasant subacid, with a slight aroma. Ripens 
from November to March. 

35. DANVERS SWEET. 

Tree spreading ; young shoots yellowish ; of rapid growth, 
and an abundant bearer, especially in rich, strong soils. 

Fruit medium, roundish-oblong or conical, smooth ; rather 
deep yellow when ripe, with a shade of blush or orange, slight- 
ly specked with russet. 

Flesh yellow, sweet, and rich. 

In use from November to March. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 17T. 



317 




36. ORTLEY. 
Fig. 1T8. 




318 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Tree of vigorous growth, rather upright, with slender young 
shoots ; in rich soils a great bearer. 

Fruit medium sized to large, oblong or oblong-ovate ; lively 
yellow, with a bright blush, somewhat speckled with light 
spots and patches of gray russet. 

Flesh yellowish-white, crisp, firm. 

Flavor sprightly perfumed subacid. Ripens from Novem- 
ber to April. 

37. BALDWIN. 

Fig. 179. 




Tree very vigorous, forming a fine, symmetrical, and heavy 
head ; bearing abundantly. 

Fruit large, roundish-ovate or conical, narrowing rather rap- 
idly toward the eye, but sometimes slightly flattened ; dull 
yellow ground, striped and shaded with red of varied depth, 
with some gray dots. 

Flesh yellowish, crisp, not very juicy. 

Flavor a high, rich subacid. Ripens from November to 
April. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



319 



38. WINE APPLE. 
Fig. ISO. 




Tree thrifty, spreading, hardy, and an abundant bearer. 

Fruit above medium, round, flattened, irregular or oblique ; 
bright varied red over yellow, or yellow striped, with some 
russet near the stem. 

Flesh yellowish- white, juicy, crisp. 

Flavor rich vinous, slightly acid. Ripens from November 
to May. 

39. SWAAR {Fig. 181). 

Tree of strong growth, and a fair bearer, succeeding best in a 
dry, deep loam ; it deserves and will well repay special care 
and high culture. 

Fruit rather large, round, flattened, sometimes irregular ; 
dead-gold color, with a little russet or darkish spots. 

Flesh yellowish, fine-grained, and tender. 

Flavor very rich and aromatic subacid, with considerable 
spicy fragrance. Ripens from December to March. 



320 



AMERICAN HOME (iARDEN. 

Fig. 181. 




40. RED CANADA. 



Fig. 183 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



321 



Tree spreading, thrifty, but of rather slender growth ; a 
good bearer. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish-conical, or flattened at the 
base ; greenish to yellow, covered with various shades of red, 
with many small gray russet dots. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, firm, and juicy. 

Flavor fine rich subacid. Ripens from December to March. 



41. LADY APPLE, 



Fig. 183. 



Tree erect, vigorous, though 
not of large growth ; its young 
shoots black; a free bearer 
when it attains age. 

Fruit very small, round, 
flattened to cheese form ; 
clear light yellow, with bright 
red cheek, smooth and glossy. 

Flesh yellowish- white, firm, 
tender. 

Flavor mild subacid. Ripens from December to March. 




42. pryor's red. 

Fig. 184. 




322 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Tree of strong, free growth, and an abundant bearer. 

Fruit medium to large, roundish to roundish-conical, irreg- 
ular, and very variable in form, often becoming angular ; green- 
ish-yellow, nearly covered with dull red, and somewhat rus- 
seted. 

Flesh yellowish, tender, and fine-grained, but not very 
juicy. 

Flavor mild and agreeable subacid. Ripens from December 
to March, or later. 

43. NORTHERN SPY. 

lig. 185. 




Tree of rapid and rather erect growth, with stout, spotted 
young shoots, making a finely-formed but close head ; and, 
with high culture and age, bearing fair fi-uit, and freely. 

Fruit large, roundish -conical, obscurely ribbed; yellow, 
nearly covered with streaks of various red or crimson. 

Flesh yellowish-white, tender, juicy. 

Flavor rich, aromatic subacid. Ripens from December to 
April. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



323 



44. wood's GREENING. 

Fig. 186. 



Tree rather spreading, and of slender growth ; in strong 
soils or under high cultui'e, a good and uniform bearer. 

Fruit medium to large, roundish-conical, somewhat flatten- 
ed ; green, turning yellow as it ripens. 

Flesh greenish- white, fine-grained, and tender. 

Flavor pleasant subacid. Ripens from January to March. 

45. YELLOW NEWTOWN PIPPIN {Fig. 187). 

Tree of slow growth, with rough bark even while young, 
but hardy, long-lived, and, in favorable soil and climate, a 
good bearer ; needs and deserves high culture. 

Fruit medium to large, irregular, generally round, flattened, 
and slightly oblique ; in fine specimens inclining to oblong ; 
often scabbed and imperfect in unfavorable circumstances. 

Flesh yellowish, firm, juicy. 

Flavor high, rich, and fragrant, with moderate acid. The 
finest apple known. Ripens from January to May, 

The Green Newtown Pippin is distinguishable only by th? 



324 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

Fig. 187. 




appearance of the fruit, which is generally of flatter form, and 
green, and by some is thought to be rather more juicy, and to 
keep better. 

Both the yellow and the green Newtown Pippin are found 
of very varied quality in different localities, a result attributa- 
ble largely, I think, to the existence of seedling sub-varieties. 

46. ladies' sweeting. 

Tree spreading, a little irregular, thrifty, but the young 
growth rather slender ; bears abundantly. 

Fruit medium or above, roundish-ovate, sometimes longer ; 
yellowish-green, striped, or having considerable red, covered 
by a slight bloom ; sometimes scarcely distinguishable from 
the Flushing Spitzenbergh. 

Flesh greenish-white, firm, crisp, and juicy. 

Flavor rather subacid than sweet, exceedingly pleasant, per- 
fumed, and rich. Ripens from January to May, retaining its 
freshness to the last. 

This favorite apple, under various names, has been very 
widely diffused from its original home upon the Hudson, and 
well deserves more attention and more special care in its culti- 
vation as a market fruit than it has yet received. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig 1S^. 



325 




47. RAULE'S JANET. 
Fig. 189. 




326 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Tree of only moderate growth, but an abundant bearer ; blos- 
soming late, and seldom injured by spring frosts. 

Fruit medium to large ; roundish, flattened at the stem, and 
often oblique ; skin tough ; light yellow, striped with varying 
red, according to exposure, with some spots of mould and russet. 

Flesh yellowish- white, fine-grained, crisp, and juicy. 

Flavor mild, rich subacid. Ripens from January to May. 

48. BOSTON RUSSET. 
FiR. 190. 




Tree strong and spreading, bearing heavy crops of market- 
able fruit. 

Fruit medium to large, roundish, flattened, sometimes slight- 
ly angular or ribbed ; dull green russet, becoming brown, occa- 
sionally reddish bronzed on the sunny side. 

Flesh greenish-white, a little coarse, firm and juicy. 

Flavor rich subacid. Ripens from January to June. 

49. POTIGHKEEPSIE RUSSET. 

Tree erect, vigorous ; young shoots reddish -brown ; a heavy 
bearer. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 191. 



•621 




Fruit below medium ; ovate or conical ; pale greenish-yel- 
low, mostly covered with light brown russet. 

Flesh yellowish -white, firm, dry. 

Flavor rich subacid. Seldom fit for eating out of hand, but 
excellent when stewed or baked : see page 289. Ripens from 
January to June or July. 

50. TEWKESBURY WINTER BLUSH. 

Fig. 192. 




328 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Tree of straight and rapid growth, and a free bearer of fair 
fruit. 

Fruit small, rather flat, smooth, yellow, with red cheek and 
small russet dots. 

Flesh yellowish, firm, tender, and somewhat juicy. 

Flavor subacid. Ripens from January to August. 

This apple is remarkable for its peculiarities rather than its 
value. It is too small for profitable marketing, and the value 
it might otherwise derive from its keeping quality is neutral- 
ized by the fact that larger and better fruits may be kept till 
new apples come in, except, possibly, in southern climates. 

Lists of Varieties suited to different Sections of Country, 
numbered in each Class nearly in the order of their begin- 
ning to ripen. 





FOR THE EASTERN 


AND NORTHERN STATES 




SUMMER APPLES. 






FALL APPLES. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 


Early Harvest, or Sour Bough. 
Sweet Bough. 
Eed Astrachan. 
Williams's Favorite. 
Summer Rose. 




1. American Pearmain. 

2. Porter. 

8. Gravenstein. 

4. Famouse. 

5. Mother. 






WINTER 


APPLES. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 


Hubbardston Nonsuch. 

Minister. 

Rhode Island Greening. 

Yellow Belle Fleur. 

Baldwin. 






6. Red Canada. 

7. Swaar. 

8. Northern Spy. 

9. Ladies' Sweeting. 
10. Boston Russet. 



FOR THE MIDDLE STATES. 

SUMMER APPLES. FALL APPLES. 



1. Early Strawberry. 

2. Early Harvest, or Sour Bough. 

3. Sweet Bough. 

4. Red Astrachan. 

5. Summer Pippin. 



1. Jersey Sweeting. 

2. Maiden's Blush. 

3. Porter. 

4. Gravenstein. 

5. Hawley. 



1. Hurlbut. 

2. Chandler. 

3. Peck's Pleasant. 

4. American Golden Russet. 

5. Wagoner. 



WINTER APPLES. 

6. Rhode Island Greening. 

7. Baldwin. 

8. Yellow Newtown Pippin. 

9. Ladies' Sweeting. 
10. Boston Russet. 



AMERICAN HOMIU 



> RDEN. 



329 





FOR THE WES 


TERN STATES. 




SUMMER APPLES. 


FALL APPLES. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
6. 


Early Harvest, or Sour Bough. 
Early Sweet Bough. 
Red Astrachan. 
Summer Rose. 
Williams's Favorite. 


1. Jersey Sweeting. 

2. Porter. 

3. Gravenstein. 

4. Fall Pippin. 

5. Dyer. 




WINTER 


APPLES. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 


Jonathan. 

Rambo. 

Westfield Seek-no-further. 

Rhode Island Greening. 

Yellow Belle Fleur. 


6. Danvers Sweet. 

7. Ortley. 

8. Northern Spy. 

9. Boston Russet. 

10. Poughkeepsie Russet. 




FOR THE SOUTHERN OR 


SOUTHWESTERN STATES. 




SUJOIER APPLES. 


FALL APPLES. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 


Early May. 

Early Strawberr}^ 

Early Harvest, or Sour Bough. 

Early Sweet Bough. 

Summer Rose. 


1. Gloucester Cheese. 

2. Maiden's Blush. 

3. Porter. 

4. Gravenstein. 

5. Vandervere. 




WINTER 


APPLES. 


1. 
2. 

3. 
4. 
5. 


Male Carle. 
Broadwell Sweet. 
American Golden Russet. 
Ortley. 
Wine Apple. 


6. Lady Apple. 

7. Pryor's Red. 

8. Wood's Greening. 

9. Raule's Janet. 

10. Tewkesbury Winter Blush 



Perhaps the Poughkeepsie Russet might be advantageously 
added to each of the above lists of winter apples in which it is 
not inserted ; and for Southern culture Elliott mentions the 
" Carolina Winter Queen" and the " Nickejack" from North 
Carolina as apples of superior promise. For the Middle, North- 
ern, and Eastern States, the Donald apple, somewhat known as 
Watson's Long Keeper, is worthy of careful and extended trial. 
The tree is erect and vigorous ; fruit of a roundish-oblong or 
conical form, golden yellow, with a bright blush-" painted" 
cheek, fine-grained and tender, a very mild subacid, yet of pe- 
culiar spirit and excellence, whether raw or cooked. In general, 
the lists given will be found satisfactory, but attention to the re- 
marks on selection of kinds, page 192, will be always important. 



330 



AMEEIGAN HOME GARDEN. 



THE APRICOT. 
The Apricot is one of our earliest and pleasantest fruits for 
eating out of hand ; and though, from its blossoming so imme- 
diately upon the opening of spring, it is exposed A^ery often to 
injury or entire loss by spring frosts, as well as to the attacks 
of the curculio or plum bug after the fruit sets, yet it merits 
cultivation, and will repay all the care that in ordinary seasons 
it requires to carry it safely through the period in which it is 
liable to be injured. To make this easy, the trees should be 
kept low and compact by proper pruning ; and if there be dan- 
ger of frost upon the blossoms, set three or four stakes around 
each tree, and throw over it a large blanket or cloth of any 
kind, leaving it on in the morning until some time after sun- 
rise. 

Fig. 193. 




a. Small Apricot. 



h. Medium Apricot. 

The period of blossoming may also be retarded by keeping 
the tree shaded so long as frosts are likely to occur ; and if, 
notwithstanding this, they come upon the blossoms, the pre- 
cautions above mentioned must be taken. Branches of ever- 
green may be used with good effect both in shading and pro- 
tection. If the tree is trained against a building it will be 
still more easy to cover it, but in both cases be careful to se- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



331 



cure the covering so that the wind, if prevailing, will not dash 
it against the blossoms. 

Apricots may be planted at the distance of from ten to fif- 
teen feet, the former being sufficient if the trees are well 
pruned. A pretty rich warm loam suits them best. They 
may be budded on seedling apricots, plums, or peaches. Ei- 
ther of the two former, however, are to be preferred to the lat- 
ter, and of them those of free growth. Among plums, a vari- 
ety of stock known as the pear plum is generally preferred for 
the apricot. 

APRICOTS 

Numbered nearly in the order of their ripening. 



1. Large Early. 

2. Early Golden. 

3. Royal. 

4. Hemskirke. 



5. Breda. 
G. Peach. 

7. Moorpark. 

8. Turkey. 



These are all worthy of attention, but Nos. 1, 4, 6, and 7 
are of superior size and quality. 

THE BERBERRY. 
The Berberry is said to derive its name from the Arabic, 
Fig. 194 connecting us by a very thorny tie to the Ber- 

bers of Africa. It is found wild, not only in 
Africa, but in Europe, Asia, and both North 
and South America. It is a well-known acid 
and seedy fruit, sometimes used for preserves, 
jellies, tarts, and pickles, but too sour for any 
thing except the last or an acid gargle. 

It makes a perfectly impenetrable hedge 
fence, but its habit of spreading by offshoots 
renders it objectionable. The bark and wood 
make a fine yellow dye. The stamens of the 
common red kind seem to possess a peculiar 
susceptibility, so that, when touched, they 
spring over and deposit their pollen upon the 
stigma of the mature flower. Some new varieties have recent- 
ly been obtained from India and the Straits of Mairellan. 
They are raised from seeds, cuttings, layers, or offshoots. , 




332 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



THE BLACKBERRY. 
NEW ROCHELLE. 

The culture of blackberries as a garden fruit is of quite re- 
cent origin, dating from the discovery made a few years since, 
in the neighborhood of New Rochelle, Westchester county, of 
a fine-fruited wild variety, which, on being cultivated, was 
found to yield heavy crops of large and well-flavored fruit. 

This variety, known as the " New Rochelle blackberry," is 
the only kind at present in extended cultivation, but probably 
J,, ^yg will not long remain alone. 

It is a strong, upright 
grower, and when planted, 
as it should always be, in 
very rich soil, it spreads 
with great rapidity, and 
its suckers, if not wanted 
for plants, should be care- 
fully and persistently de- 
stroyed as they appear. 
It requires treatment pre- 
cisely similar to the com- 
mon raspberry (which see), 
the frame Avith the sliding 
bar being peculiarly de- 
sirable, on account of its 
very heavy young growth. 
Thorough ripening is essential to the perfection of the fruit, and 
in this respect cultivators are liable to be deceived by the depth 
of color which the berry attains before it is fit to gather. 

A variety called the "White Blackberry" is occasionally met 
with in gardens. Its color is really a dirty chocolate, and in 
respect to flavor and fruiting it is worthless. 

Among our wild fruits which have as yet scarcely begun to 
be regarded as subjects for cultivation, there are some that will 
probably soon follow the blackberry into the ranks of cultivated 
small fruits, as the Bufialo-berry of the southwest, Shepardia 
argentea, and the black and blue Huckleberries or Whortleber- 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 333 

lies, Vacdnium resinosum and tenellum, and the red-flowering 
t hornless Raspberry, Mubus odorata. 

THE CHERRY. 

Li any suitable climate, cherries are among the most easily 
cultivated of our large-growing fruit-trees. They prefer a 
rather warm temperature, and around many of the older home- 
steads of Virginia have grown to an enormous size. Among 
the numerous fine varieties introduced within the last thirty or 
fifty years, there is, in their several classes, but little difference 
that would strike an ordinary observer, except in the time of 
ripening, and even this is obliterated by bringing them from 
the opposite limits of one or two degrees of latitude, Avhich can 
now easily be done in time to place them on the dinner-table 
still damp with the morning dew. Hence, in our markets, 
quite a number of different kinds are known by a common name ; 
and, on the other hand, from the rapidity of their recent diffu- 
sion, a multitude of synonyms for certain choice kinds are found 
among nursery-men and amateurs. 

Most kinds have an upright and regular habit of growth, 
which permits of their being planted much closer than would 
otherwise be advantageous. From twenty to thirty feet will 
be found a sufiicient distance, unless it may be for a few vari- 
eties of spreading habit, or in localities where the tree attains a 
very large size ; and, for the same reason, but little pruning is 
found absolutely necessary. It is quite desirable to form the 
head of the young tree well at the start — see remarks page 
254 — and it is often important, in order to facilitate the fruit- 
gathering, to force a less towering growth by cutting out the 
strong central leader, even when two or tbiree inches diameter 
at the point of severance ; but this necessity should be pre- 
vented by earlier attention in forming the head. Notwith- 
standing all that may be written, however, a fruit that grows 
so rapidly, and yields so abundantly, in spite of neglect in its 
culture, will not te likely to command much care or labor. 

Of the sour varieties, which are chiefly used for tarts and 
preserving or drying, the old-fashioned or Richmond sour, and 
some of the older varieties of the Morello, are generally decay- 



334 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

ing, and in many localities are as much injured by the black 
knot as the plum-tree. The plum-stone Morello is a fine late 
sour variety, and others will be found in the list below. 

The cherry prefers a deep, strong loam, but will thrive in al- 
most any soil, if the climate be favorable. In cold localities, 
extreme tlu-iftiness in the trees exposes them to the risk of 
winter-killing or bursting. See p. 260. There are extensive 
valleys but little north of New York city, along which for 
many miles the finer varieties of cherry-trees perish at irregu- 
lar intervals from the severity of the cold. In such localities, 
or in all more northern latitudes, high manuring must be avoid- 
ed, and the trees set in positions exposed to the north or north- 
west, and defended from the winter's southern sun. They may 
bear the steady cold of a severe winter, but sudden and great 
fluctuations will almost certainly destroy them. 

SELECT LIST OF CHERRIES, # 

Numbered in each class nearly in the order in ivhicJi they 
will be found to ripen in any given soil and latitude. The 
time of their ripening at New York accompanies the figure 
and description below. 





SWEET 


FRUITS. 


1. 


Purple Guigne (Gween). 


7. Holland Bigarreau 


2. 


Mayduke. 


8. Graffion. 


3. 


Elton. 


9. Black Eagle. 


4. 


Knight's Early Black. 


10. Downton. 


5. 


Black Heart. 


11. Downer's Late. 


6. 


Black Tartarian. 


12. Florence. 



SOUK, OR PIE AND PRESER\TE FRUITS. 

13. Early Richmond. j 15. Plum-stone Morello. 

14. Carnation. 1 16. Eumsey's Morello. 

1. PURPLE GUIGNE (Fig. 196). 
Purple Griotte. German Mayduhe. 

Tree of moderate growth, and spreading. 
Fruit rather small, but very early ; dark red, pui'ple when 
dead ripe. 
Flesh tender, juicy, and sweet. Ripens last of May. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



335 



2. MAYDUKE {Fig. 197). 
Early Duke. 
Tree of upright growth ; young shoots slender. 
Fruit medium size ; bright red, becoming dark red at matu- 
rity. A fine acid fruit for pies while still unripe, but of a rich 
subacid flavor when fully matured. 

Ripening last of May and first half of June ; often having 
green fruit upon certain branches when the main crop has ma- 
tured. 

Fig. 196. Fig. 197. Fig. 198. 






Purple Guigne. 



Mayduke. 



Elton. 



3. ELTON {Fig. 198). 

Tree vigorous, spreading. 

Fruit pretty large, slightly pointed ; pale yellow, with a 
bright red, mottled cheek. 

Flesh rather firm, but juicy, rich, and excellent. 

Ripens about the middle of June, immediately after the 
INIayduke. 



386 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



4. knight's EARLY BLACK {Ficj. 199). 

Tree of moderate vigor, spreading. 
Fruit rather large, irregular, dark purple. 
Flesh purple, tender, juicy, and fine-flavored. 
Ripens about the middle of June. 

5. BLACK HEART {Ficj. 200). 

Early Black. Black Russian. 
Tree vigorous, erect. 

Fruit of medium size, uneven in outline ; dark purple. 
Flesh purple, tender, juicy, and sweet. 
Ripens from the middle to the last of June. 

Fig. 199. Fig. 200. Fig. 201. 




Kniglit's Early Black. 



Black Heart. 



Black Tartarian. 



6. BLACK TARTARIAN {Fig. 201). 

Dyckmari's. Bishop's Large. BonaM's Black Heart. 
Tree extremely vigorous, erect. 

Fruit very large, irregular, almost oblong ; nearly black. 
Flesh purplish, tolerably tender, juicy, rich, and delicious. 
Ripens from the middle to the last of June. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



337 



7. HOLLAND BIGARREAU {Fig. 202). 

Armstrong's Bigarreau. Spotted Bigarreau. 
Tree of strong and spreading growth. 
Fruit large, regular ; pale yellow, shaded and spotted with 
bright red on the sunny side. 
Flesh firm, juicy, and excellent. 
Ripens toward the last of June. 

Fig. 202. Fig. 203. 





Holland Bigarreau. 



Giaffion. 



8. GRAFFION {Fig. 203). 
Bigarreau. Wliite Bigarreau. Yelloio Spanish. 
Tree of vigorous but diverging growth, forming a fine spread- 
ing head. 

Fruit large ; pale yellow or amber, with clear red on the 
sunny side. 

Flesh light yellow, very firm, but of fine, rich flavor when 
ripe. 

Ripens about the last of June. 

P 



338 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEX, 



9. BLACK EAGLE {Fig. 204). 
Tree vigorous, spreading ; young shoots quite stout. 
Fruit medium or above ; deep purple or black. 
Flesh pm'ple, tender, juicy, and rich. 
Ripens beginning of July. 

10. DOWNTON {Fig. 205). 
Tree of moderate growth, making a round head. 
Fruit large, roundish, regular; creamy, and very clear; 
stained and dotted with red on the sunny side. 
Flesh light yellow, tender, fine, and rich. 
Ripens early in July. 



Fig. 204. 



Fig. 205. 



Fig. 206. 




Black Eagle, 



11. downer's late {Fig. 206). 
Tree of moderate vigor, somewhat spreading. 
Fruit medium or below ; light clear red, veined with amber. 
Flesh tender, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in July. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



339 



12. FLORENCE {Fig. 207). 
Knevefs Late Bigarreau. Dyckman's Late. 
Tree of strong growth and fine spreading habit. 
Fruit large, roundish, slightly inclining to reniform ; amber- 
yellow, marbled with red, and the fully-exposed fruit becom- 
ing flushed with red on the sunny side. 
»Flesh yellowish, very firm, but juicy, sweet, and superior. 
Ripens about the middle of July. 



Fig. 207. 



Fig. 208. 





Florence. 



Early Richmond. 



SOUR CHERRIES, PIE AND PRESERVE FRUITS. 
13. EARLY RICHMOND (Fig. 208). 

Virginian May. Kentish. 

Tree of low habit, with regular spreading head ; young 
growth slender. 

Fruit medium or below, round ; bright red, becoming rather 
dark at maturity. 

Flesh tender, melting, juicy, and of a fine acid flavor : first- 
rate for culinary purposes. 

Ripens in all June. 



340 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



14. CARNATION {Fig. 209). 

Wax Cherry. 

Tree of strong growth and spreading habit. 
Fruit large, round ; clear light red. 

Flesh pretty firm, juicy, and acid, becoming almost subacid 
at maturity. 

Ripens from the middle to the end of July. . 

15. PLUM-STONE MORELLO {Fig. 210). 

Tree thrifty, spreading ; young shoots slender. 
Fruit rather large, roundish, heart-shaped ; deep red. 
Flesh reddish, tender, and juicy ; of a fine acid flavor. 
Ripens last of July. 

Fig. 209. Fig. 210. Fig. 211. 





Carnation. 



Plum-stone Morello. 



Rumsey's Morello. 



16. rumsey's morello {Fig. 211). 

Tree of slender and slow growth, and spreading habit. 
Fruit above medium, having a suture on one side ; smooth 
and regular ; color a clear bright red. 

Flesh tender, juicy, and melting, but quite acid. 
Ripens in August, and later. 



AMEEICAN HOME GAKDEN". 



341 




THE CRANBERRY. 
Cranberries may be raised on any moist land by covering 
Fig. 212. the space to be planted with 

a thick coat of swamp muck, 
and setting the plants in it at 
afoot or eighteen inches apart, 
according to their strength. 
Keep them perfectly clean un- 
til they obtain possession ; 
they will then take care of 
themselves, keeping out all 
other growth, and yielding 
their fruit abundantly, which 
is usually gathered with a pe- 
culiar box-rake, known as the 
cranberry-rake. Top-dressing 
with well -rotted compost after 
the crop is gathered improves 
both the quantity and quality of succeeding crops. It is said 
that they can also be well raised on dry soils, but probably 
would require increased labor, with smaller return for it, their 
natural home being moist bog meadows. 

CURRANTS. 

Of varieties there are the Black Naples, the Red and the 
White Dutch, or common, and certain other inferior varieties 
or mixtures of these, and still others larger fruiting and later, 
but more acid and less worthy of cultivation. The recently- 
introduced cherry currant is produced somewhat after the man- 
ner of the Black Naples, bearing its large fruit upon short 
bunches ; the seeds are rather large, and the quality of the 
fruit only ftvir, but it is a showy, and, on the whole, a desirable 
variety. 

Though one of the most valuable of our small summer fruits, 
if not, indeed, more useful than any other, currants are scarce- 
ly subjects of cultivation ; for this implies more than merely 
planting in a corner or by a fence, and gathering the product 



342 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



when it comes. Yet they will well repay by the abundance, 
and excellence, and beauty of their fruit, the little labor their 
cultivation requires. 



Fig. 213. 




a. Black Naples. 





b. Red Dutch. 



They may be set out at four or five 
feet apart, and either kept to a single 
stem, or to two or three. Satisfactory 
results will be obtained if the bushes are 
kept clear of grass and weeds, the off- 
shoots from the collar of the root sup- 
pressed, the head of the bush kept rath- 
er open than otherwise by thinning out 
any excess of bearing shoots, and com- 
pact in form by shortening the young 
wood, according to its strength, to from 
one half to one third of its last year's 
growth in the winter pruning as direct- 
ed for gooseberries, p. 346. 
Currants may be planted in almost any soil or situation, and 



c. White Dutch. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN", 343 

ai*e as easily raised as willows, from layers, or cuttings planted 
in the fall or early spring. There are many sub-varieties, with 
considerable differences in the quality and pleasantness of their 
acid, and it is worthy of care that your young plants be raised 
from such as are most agreeable to your taste. 

The season of this fruit may be prolonged by planting some 
in warm spots, or light soil, and others in the shade, or on a 
north slope, or in cold soil, or by covering single bushes with 
mats closely -vvi'apped and fastened around them before they 
are quite half ripe, uncovering them to the sun a few days be- 
fore they are to be gathered for use, to sweeten them, as cur- 
rants ripened in the shade are somewhat acid, though by no 
means so sour as when left to become over-ripened upon leafless 
branches in the sun. 

The Black Naples currant makes a conserve or jelly that is 
very useful in domestic practice for removing soreness of the 
throat, for preparing a cooling drink in fever by stirring it into 
water, or for the easy administration of medicines to children. 
The red and white, either separately or mixed, stripped and 
sugared, are an ornament and a delicacy upon the tea-table ; 
and the perfectly free use of the ripe, fresh-gathered fruit in 
this form, or directly from the bushes, is, in general, a com- 
plete preventive of summer complaint and tendency to dysen- 
tery in children or adults. 

THE FIG. 

Wherever the climate favors their production, figs are among 
the most easily cultivated of fruits, the natural growth of the 
tree being such as to render pruning almost entirely mmec- 
essary, and one or two crops a year being yielded with cer- 
tainty. In latitudes north of 40° they require protection, but 
in warm situations, in cities, against a wall, or in a recess by 
a house or other building, or even in some open situations, a 
pretty thick coating with straw and matting, or laying down 
the whole tree and banking earth over it, will be found to 
ansAver this purpose, and one small crop per year can be ob- 
tained, i : .-■' 

The ripe, undried fruit, however, is veiy luscious, with a 



344 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 




^'«- 214. little faintness of flavor, 

■which renders it less «le- 
sirahle than it mi^ht 
otherwise be, so that its 
culture, where it can not 
be profitably dried for 
market, is a matter of 
mere fancy, except for 
persons of peculiar taste. 
Unlike other fruits, the 
fig is not produced from 
any apparent blossom, 
but is borne, generally 
singly, upon the young 
branches, the flower be- 
ing included in and form- 
ing part of the fruit. 
The filaments which constitute the flower, or, more properly, 
the floral organs, are readily seen in the fresh-gathered fruit, 
and sometimes also in the thick-skinned, imperfectly-ripened, 
dried figs of commerce. 

It is said that in certain districts of France the fruit is 
sometimes anointed in the eye with sweet oil, when near ma- 
turity, to secure its ripening, and Downing seems to think the 
operation effective to this end ; but in the absence of any ap- 
parent connection, we doubt if they are cause and effect. Where 
practiced, it is probably an old custom, of which the origin has 
been forgotten and a new account of it invented. 

The fig-tree is easily raised from off"slioots, layers, or cut- 
tings, and will grow in almost any soil. The clioicer varieties 
are the Brunswick, or Black Naples ; the Brown Turkey, or 
Naples ; the Black Ischia, the Black Genoa, the Malta, the 
White Marseilles, the Nerii,and the White Ischia. 

The Egyptian fig, or sycamore fruit of the Bible, sometimes 
also called " Pharaoh's Fig," and, from its leaf, " MulbeiTy 
Fig," is not, in strictness, a fruit, but a seedless excrescence 
which forms upon the trunk and large limbs of a wild lowland 
tree of the East. It is either thrown out naturally by the tree, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



3-io 



or produced by the action of insects, or by wounding the bark 
for the purpose. It resembles a fig, but is of extreme bitter- 
ness until opened by the nail or some sharp instrument, so that 
a portion of its milky juice exudes, when it ripens and becomes 
of a dull sweet, but luscious and not very wholesome. The 
tree yields it abundantly and constantly, in Jewish parlance 
" bearing seven times a year," This excoriation of the bark 
and opening of the " fruit" seems to have been the employ- 
ment of the prophet (Amos, vii., 14), who was a gatherer, or, 
rather, a " dresser" or " scraper" of sycamore fruit. 



THE GOOSEBERRY. 

Fig. 215. 




b. Whitesmith. 



c. lIonRliton't* Sppfllin 



Almost every variety 
of gooseberry cultivated 
among us is of European 
origin, and generally, in 
our climate, subject to a 
mould or mildew upon 
the fruit, that destroys 
the crop. It is true, this 
may be measurably, and 
in some seasons entirely 
avoided by careful win- 
ter pruning, moderate 
shade by planting them 



346 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

near grape-vines or peach-trees, &e., and high manuring with 
compost from year to year, and sowing lime, sulphur, or ashes 
over them repeatedly when in blossom and young fruit ; but it 
is scarcely probable that the cultivation of gooseberries can be- 
come general among us, unless, either from those now in repu- 
tation or from some of our own wild ones, new seedling varie- 
ties, exempt from the disease, may be produced. The English 
have a fancy for raising them of monstrous size for exhibition, 
leaving on the bush only a few berries, and supporting these 
so that they do not hang, but rest and fatten. The berry, when 
ripe, is of a very mild, yet lively and pleasant acid, or rather 
vinous flavor, the very large kinds never being in this respect 
equal to the smaller. While green, they are used for tarts, 
&c., having a very strong, rough acid, a part of which should 
be leached off by scalding the fruit before it is used, and pour- 
ing off the water when cooled. But for these purposes the pie- 
plant affords a better acid, and is much more easily raised and 
handled. 

Gooseberry bushes should stand in rows from four to six feet 
apart each way, and be kept on one stem, with but few bearing 
shoots, and all offshoots suppressed. Every winter, with a light 
pair of pruning shears, shorten the last season's shoots, cutting 
the strong ones to about half their length, those of medium 
growth to about one fom'th, and those that are weak close vto 
the point from which they started ; and keep the bushes regu- 
larly and thoroughly manured. The plants are readily raised 
from layers or cuttings. See pages 197 and 198. 

The kinds named in the nm'sery catalogues are very numer- 
ous, but among the red hairy varieties, that known as " Crown 
Bob" bears the highest character, and " Whitesmith" among 
the smooth-skinned green or yellow kinds. Houghton's Seed- 
ling is the only American variety of reputation, and is exempt 
from mildew. 

Rough or hairy gooseberries are more uniformly well flavored 
than the smooth varieties, and I incline to think the red ones 
generally better than the green or yellow, yet the finest flavored 
known variety is a grass-green hairy berry, so small as to be 
profitless. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



347 



THE GRAPE. 

Of native grapes, the Isabella (Fig. 216 a), Catawba, Diana, 
Concord, Rebecca, and a few others, succeed well near New 
York, and some of them far to the north of it. The Bland, 
Elsinburgh, and Ohio, or Cigar-box, and several others of merit, 
require a more southern latitude. 

Of foreign grapes, the red Muscat and white Muscat of 
Alexandria (Fig. 216 b), for heated graperies, and the black 
Hambm"g and white Muscadine for house culture, either with 
or without fire-heat, will be found valuable. 



Fig. 216. 




a. Isabella Grape. 



b. White Muscat of Alexandria. 



The grape, like the cherry and currant, often yields its fruit 
so abundantly, in spite of neglect, that in multiplied instances it 
is not in any sense cultivated ; it simply grows. When plant- 
ed merely with a view to shade or ornament, this is well, but 
the culture of the grape is usually entered upon in expectation 
of a profitable return, or, at least, of combining this with other 
gratifications. 

European grapes are almost entirely excluded from our con- 
sideration by their uniform failure in out-door culture in our 
climate, and their exposure to mildew and failure, even in house 
culture, unless incessant care and labor are bestowed upon them. 



348 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Our choice of kinds is therefore very limited, and any one may 
easily obtain and test for himself, at small expense, all the va- 
rieties that at present pretend to claim attention. Most of om- 
varieties ai'e of wild natural origin, some of which, nevertheless, 
compare favorably with many of the cultivated European kinds. 
Stai'ting in the culture of this finiit with such originals, we may 
fairly expect that intelligent and persevering cultivation, to 
the force of which no plant yields itself more readily, will rap- 
idly supply new and superior vai'ieties suited to our varied cli- 
mate, and surpassing rivalry. 

The grape will do well in almost any soil. It gi'ows wild 
alike upon om' dryest lands and in our swamps, from the Pe- 
nobscot to the Rio Grande. For its most successful cultivation, 
however, a deep, dry, limestone soil or sandy loam is desirable. 

Wild vines or worthless ones may be successfully cleft graft- 
ed, after the vines have leaved out, with grafts kept for the 
piu-pose from the winter pruning ; these should be buried or 
cellared mitil wanted for use. Cut off the stock and insert 
the graft a few inches under ground ; if possible, wrap it in the 
ordinary manner, earth it well up, and set a stake to it. 

The young plants may be raised by cuttings, as directed 
pages 196, 197, or by laj^ers. If the shoots of the previous 
year are layered early in the spring, they may be set out ^the 
next year, but if shoots of the cm'rent season be layered in June 
or July, they should be severed from the pai'ent vine and cut 
back in fall or the next spring, but ought not to be removed 
for setting out until the following yeai', their roots being too 
tender. 

Two-year-old plants raised from cuttings, or layers raised as 
above directed, just taken from the parent vine, and cut back 
to one or two buds, may be set out in the ordinaiy mode of 
tree-planting — see page 245 — in large holes with loosened bot- 
tom, dug at least eighteen inches deep, and filled up with good 
rich mould to twelve or fifteen inches, according to the size of 
the root. Let rich earth or perfectly rotted compost be mixed 
with the soil, or used exclusively in filling up. Tread the earth 
lightly upon and around the roots, and suffer only one or at most 
two buds to start. In removino; old vines, cut them clean down 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEX. 



Ud 



before replanting ; they will recover vigor much sooner than 
if you leave the old growth upon them. 

The vine is a greedy feeder, and its absorbents act with 
great rapidity, so that in vine regions over-manuring is found 
to weaken the juice and spoil the character of the wine, and is 
sometimes forbidden by law on this account. An inopportune 
application of foul manui'e is also apt to taint the fruit. Good 
compost, having in it a mixture of bones, charcoal, and animal 
matter, applied at the planting of the vines, and annually dug 
in around them, with summer top-dressings of leached or un- 
leached ashes, guano, or bone-dust, and attention to keeping 
them free from weeds, with occasional additions of fresh sur- 
face earth, which may be half-rotted sod pared thick from a 
loamy road side and chopped up, or any good surface loam, will 
ordinarily insure healthy vines and heavy crops. 

Vines are arranged for cultivation upon arbors, trellises, or 
stakes, and may be treated either upon the" spur" or " alter- 
nating" system, though in general cultivators do not rigidly 
adhere to either, but pm^sue a mixed course, according to in- 
dividual fancy or knowledge, and the particular state of the 
vines from year to year. Their training may either be up- 
right or horizontal, but, if otherwise suitable, the latter is to 
be preferred ; or any fancy winding, ornamental fashion may 
be adopted with advantage. 



ARBOR. 



The vine as it appears in the spring 
before it starts, upon the spur sys- 
tem. 

a. The permanent main canes, with 
their spurs, and the buds from which 
the fruit for the season is expected to 
proceed. 



Fig. 217. 




Whether for arbor or trellis culture, the vines may be set 
from ten to twenty feet apart, at discretion. 



350 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



SPUR SYSTEM. 

In the spur system one or more shoots are permitted to ex- 
tend themselves gradually from each plant, being cut back at 
the first winter pruning after the setting out to three or four 
buds, at the second to six or eight, or more, increasing the 
length of these main canes from year to year, according to their 
strength, permitting only a limited quantity of fruit to be 
borne upon the spurs or side shoots from them until these main 
ones have attained the length at which it is intended perma- 
nently to keep them (see Fig. 217). After this, all the spurs 
or side shoots are annually cut off at the winter pruning to 
within a single bud, or close to the old stem or main cane 
from which they issue. Each joint upon these main stems or 
canes becomes by the annual repetition of this process a bunch 
of undeveloped buds, from which young shoots are annually 
put forth, upon which the season's crop of fruit is borne. 
These' are kept in check during summer by nipping, and re- 
moved entirely at the winter pruning, as described below. 

The main canes of the vine in the figure are trained upright, 
but they may also be trained horizontally by carrying the main 
stem originally to the top of the arbor, and forming the main 
canes from its side buds, or the mode may be subsequently 
changed by cutting away all but one or two of the main canes, 
making them stems, and furnishing the horizontal canes from 
their spiu" buds. 



TRELLIS. 




The vine upon the trellis, winter pruned 
and arranged upon the alternating system ; 
as it appears before it starts in the spring. 

a, a, a, o, a. Five canes cut lack, leaving 
a single bud on each, close to the main stem, 
to form the growth-canes of the current sea- 
son and the fruit canes of the next. 

b, b, b, b. Four canes shortened to the di- 
mensions of the trellis to bear the current 
season's crop of fruit, and be cut back in the 
manner of a at the coming winter pruning, 
and form next year's growth-canes. 



The trellis is the arbor sides without its arch, a simple up- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



351 



right frame of posts with bars or slats, these latter running 
lengthwise, at about a foot apart. Its general direction should, 
if convenient, be north and south. 



Fig. 219. 




STAKES. 



Tlifi vine upon stakes as seen in spring before starting ; on 
the alternating system. 

«, a. Two canes cut back for growth. 

6. A young bud near the main stem to form a third cane 
for next season. 

c, c. Young canes shortened for the season's crop, to be cut 
out in the next winter's pruning. 



Foreign grape-vines, with short joints and comparatively 
moderate growth, may be cultivated, where other circumstances 
favor, upon a single stake, by either system of pruning ; but 
the extraordinary vigor of American grape-vines renders three 
stakes expedient, if not absolutely necessary ; these form really 
a small trellis, and this may be adopted as a preliminary mode 
for vines which are intended to form permanent trellises or 
arbors, or other stakes may be added as the extending growth 
of the canes may demand. 

ALTERNATING SYSTEM. , 

This system, which is quite superior to the former, consists 
in allowing only a limited number of young canes to grow in 
each year, proportioning them, both in number and length, to 
the strength and support of the vine root, and cutting out at 
every winter pruning all canes that have previously borne 
fruit. Thus, if the plant has two canes, each of Avhich in the 
Avinter pruning you have shortened to four feet, then you will 
permit only two new ones to grow the current season (Fig. 219). 
To these four canes, two bearing and two growing, the usual 
care is to be given through the summer and fall, as hereafter 
directed. In the winter pruning the two bearing canes are 
cut entirely out to a single bud, and you have again two shoots 



352 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

for the next season's fruit, Fig. 219 c, c, and two buds to form 
growth, Fig. 219 a, a. If your vine has strengthened suffi- 
ciently, the bearing canes may be left six feet long or more, 
and a third growth-cane be provided for from a strong bud 
near or on the main stem, Fig. 219 6. 

This simple process, by w^hich the finest fruit is uniformly 
produced, goes on from year to year without change, except 
that, as the root of your vine increases in strength, you either 
increase the number of the shoots you permit to grow, or add 
to their length, or both. 

The only rule in the case is to proportion the fruit canes 
you leave to the capacity of the root, in view of its strength, 
and the extent and richness of the space from which its sup- 
plies are to be drawn, taking care to have at least an equal 
number of growth-canes in preparation to succeed them in 
bearing fruit the following year. 

In many old vineyards of France and Germany the vines are 
planted but from fom* to eight feet apart, and are never suffer- 
ed to grow more than a few feet high, while in other circum- 
stances a single vine may cover a vast area, and bear annually 
hundreds of pounds of fruit. In general, it will be found bet- 
ter, if otherwise suitable, to limit the number of bearing canes 
and increase their length, not only on account of the easier 
tending and beauty of display which it permits, but also be- 
cause the finer fruit is commonly produced from canes of supe- 
rior strength. 

SUMMER PRUNING. 
The summer pruning of the grape-vine should be begun at 
the first appearance of the young leaf, all the pushing buds 
that are not wanted being carefully broken off, permitting only 
a single shoot to grow from each joint. Just before the blos- 
soms open, remove all bunches that are small and weak, or in 
excess, proportioning in the process the probable quantity of 
fruit to the strength of the particular cane on which it is to 
be borne, and the total quantity to the strength of the vine. 
Suppress all weak, or irregular, or superfluous after-growth, 
whether from the stem or main canes of the vine, limiting ab- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 353 

solutely the number and direction of the shoots permitted to 
grow to the pattern you propose to follow, and whether on ar- 
bors, trellises, or stakes, confine each vine definitely to a given 
space, and do not suffer it to run beyond it, but persistently 
stop it at its boundary-line by nipping. 

These things being done, the summer pruning of vines cul- 
tivated upon the spur system, in which there is but one class 
of growth, Fig. 217, becomes perfectly simple. The Avhole 
proper young growth of the season must be shortened by nip- 
ping each shoot at from three to five joints beyond the outer- 
most bunch of fruit upon it, thus checking growth, yet leaving 
sufficient foliage to fully elaborate the sap and preserve health 
in the vine and fruit. 

In the alternating system of cultivation there are two classes 
of growth to be cared for, the bearing and non-bearing ; the 
bearing canes, Fig. 218 6, 6, should be treated precisely as just 
described for the spur system ; checking the young growth of 
the season by careful but not excessive shortening, in order to 
force the energies of the vine plant into the direction of fruit- 
age instead of mere growth. 

The non-bearing or growth-canes, starting from the buds 
a, a, a, a. Fig. 218, must be laid carefully to their course and 
tied securely. All side shoots thrown out from them must be 
nipped, not close to the joint from which they proceed, as this 
would be likely to force growth from the main bud of that 
joint, which lies dormant at the base of the side shoot, and 
upon the quiescence and strength of which your next year's 
fruit depends, but nip them while quite tender at one or two 
joints' distance from the main shoot, leaving them as spurs 
upon it ; and when a second growth is put forth from the ex- 
treme bud left, nip this again as often as may be needful ; and 
just as the shortening of the whole growth in the bearing 
canes concentrates the force of the vine in the fruit, so the 
shortening of the side growth upon non-bearing canes concen- 
trates it in the principal shoots, ripening their wood, enlarging 
and strengthening their buds, and preparing them for yield- 
ing a full crop of fruit in their season. It only remains to 
limit the length of growth in these main non-bearing canes to 



354 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

their prescribed boundaries, whether allowing five feet or twen- 
ty, nipping and renipping their extremities as may be required 
to effect the object. 

In doing this, leave at least one or two extra joints, to be cut 
from the end in the winter pruning ; and if the canes are de- 
sired to make cuttings, omit nipping the extremities of the main 
shoots entirely until two or three weeks before the growth ceases 
in the fall, which will afford time for perfectly maturing the 
cane throughout its length. 

Faithful summer pruning will be found not only essential to 
the perfection of the growing crop, but largely conducive to 
the amount and character of the next year's product ; it should, 
however, be done regularly, and not neglected until its per- 
formance becomes analogous to the French practice of strip- 
ping off the leaves for fodder. American vines will not bear 
this ; fullness of foliage is essential to their vigorous health ; 
and, unless the leaves are so massed as to exclude air, the fruit 
will ripen fairer and sweeter in their shade. 

WINTER PRUNING. 

The winter pruning of grape-vines in both systems is per- 
formed, as already shown, by cutting out to a single bud all 
the bearing canes of the preceding summer, cutting also clean 
away all the side shoots or summer spurs of the new canes, and 
shortening these to their proper length for producing the com- 
ing crop, according to the bearing capacity of your vine. This 
winter pruning may be properly performed at any convenient 
time from the fall of the leaf to at least a month before the 
actual opening of spring ; but the best time to do it is imme- 
diately on the dropping of the foliage, chopping up all trim- 
mings not required for cuttings, and burying them with the 
fallen leaves around the vines from which they c^ime. The 
green summer trimmings throughout the season should also be 
either buried or strewn beneath the vines to decay, and not be 
carried off. 

The cuttings also may be made and planted before winter, as 
directed page 197 ; or, if desired, the canes for cuttings may 
be buried a few inches deep until spring. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN'. 



355 



Fig. 220. 




GRAPE-HOUSE, 

If a proper grapery is desired, its construction and manage- 
ment may be learned 
from any of the numer- 
ous elaborate treatises 
upon grape culture. But 
any one may construct a 
cheap cold grapery, as 
shown in the figure, in 
which foreign grapes, or 
the more tender of our 
own native kinds may be produced. 

For this purpose, choose a spot facing as near south as pos- 
sible ; if against a building or a bank wall, so much the better. 
Trench the spot so chosen, and ten feet beyond where the front 
of your house will come, to a depth of two feet or more, enrich- 
ing it as you proceed with the various manures named p, 349. 
If the subsoil is at all moist, throw into the bottom of each 
trench, as you make it, loose stones, brick-bats, lime rubbish, 
old boots and shoes, brush, &c., &c. 

When this is finished and the ground settled, lay out your 
house twelve feet wide, with the front two to four feet high and 
the back twelve. Having set posts for the whole, board all 
tight on both sides of the posts, as is usual in constnicting ice- 
houses, leaving only an end door-Avay, and small openings for 
ventilators along just beloAV the front and back plates, to be 
closed either with hinged or sliding wooden or glass doors. 
As you proceed with the boarding, fill in all between the posts 
with sawdust, or dry tan, or swamp hay, or straw and charcoal 
dust, or dried peat, or swamp-muck, pretty well packed down. 

Having all smooth and ready, lay on your plates and arrange 
the rafters, which will be something over fifteen feet long, and 
may be three feet apart in the clear. This will require sashes 
three feet wide, each having five rows of six-inch glass, or six 
rows of five-inch. These sashes will rest, and may either be 
fixed, or slide upon cleats nailed against the rafters, the front 
plate being beveled so that the lower sashes will slide from 
their cleats evenly over it, if desired. 



356 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

For the upper sashes, nail the cleats so as to bring the up- 
per surface of the sash frames flush with the upper edge of the 
rafters, while the lower end of each rests upon the back rail of 
the lower sash, fitting closely, but so that it will slide over it 
when it is desired to open the upper part of the house. These 
sashes may be about six feet long, or the house may be made 
sixteen feet wide, requiring rafters about nineteen, and sashes 
seven feet or more long, and the small remaining portion of 
the roof may be shingled or tightly boarded over, packing it as 
the other boarded parts, if it is convenient. The frames of 
such sashes, made of inch and a half or two-inch stuff, will 
cost, without glass or painting, about one dollar each, and each 
sash will hold from fifteen to eighteen feet of glass, which any 
boy may put in. If you have no protection from bank wall or 
building, you may, if convenient, add a small narrow shed along 
the back, as shown in the figure. 

Having your grape-house thus prepared, plant a vine under 
each rafter ten or twelve inches inside the front, and another, 
if you choose, immediately opposite, near the back. 

By either the spur or alternating system of pruning, as de- 
scribed for out-door culture, you gradually lead them up and 
along just below the rafters until they meet. They require 
careful summer pruning. Nip each bearing cane within two 
or three buds of the fruit, and the small side shoots of the new 
non-bearing canes uniformly to within one bud distance from 
the cane, and repeat this nipping upon any second gi'owth that 
may occur. See page 353. They also need frequent water- 
ings, at least once a week, extending over the whole border, for 
which soap-suds may be used. In bright weather, except while 
blossoming, they should be syringed with tepid water three or 
four times a week until the grapes are full grown, when water- 
ing and syringing should gradually cease. 

If the fruit is likely to crowd on the bunches, and there be 
a fancy for peculiarly handsome bunches and fine berries, the 
smaller berries may be thinned out Avith the grape scissors. 
See Fig. 92 e, page 209, With this view, also, the number 
of blossom bunches left at first may be specially limited. By 
these combined means, under favorable circumstances, the fruit 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 357 

will be much increased in size and improved in quality. If 
the mildew occurs, scatter sulphur upon them immediately ; 
and if the aphis attacks them, shut the house up, and either 
with a furnace or patent fumigator or smoke it thoroughly with 
tobacco, following this with heavy syringing. From first to last, 
give them gradually, never suddenly, all the air you possibly can, 
consistent with their protection from cold and sudden changes. 

Careful pruning, plenty of air, and a temperature equable, 
but rising with the advancing season, with syringing and wa- 
tering, the artificial substitutes for dews and rains, complete 
the circle of requisites in the treatment of a cold grapery. 

In November the vines may be taken down and pruned for 
spring, and being laid along upon the border, front and back, 
must be covered with leaves, or mats, or straw, to preserve 
them from frost through the winter. In March they should 
be taken out and put up as before, first being carefully washed 
throughout with soap-suds and a soft brush. 

If you desire to convert your building into a warm grapery, 
you may do so by putting in the heating apparatus described 
page 475 for the green -house, giving it the same general care 
and treatment as above directed for cold grapery, except that 
the vines must be waslied ofi" and put up in January or Febru- 
ary, or may be left up throughout the year ; and the heat, 
whenever applied, must not be made strong at once, but grad- 
ually and slowly raised to a summer temperatm^e. 

If grapes are cultivated in the green-house, the vines must 
be planted and laid down for winter just outside the front wall, 
and may be introduced in proper season by raising the front 
sash, from the lower corner of which a hole large enough for 
the stem must be cut out. After the vine is in its place, this 
must be closed around the stem by stuffing, and the outer por- 
tion of the stem and the roots be well covered from the cold. 

THE MULBERRY. 

The mulberry is one of our abounding wild fruits, and is, 
perhaps, worth};' of more attention and cultivation than it re- 
ceives. The fruit resembles a long blax;kberry, and, if gath- 
ered and eaten before it becomes dead ripe, has a pleasant 



358 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 221. 




a. Fertile branch, witli fruit of natural size, and 
leaf reduced nearly one half. 

acid flavor; but if permitted to 
ripen fully, it becomes of a pe- 
culiar flavored faint sweet, and is 
good only for chickens. The 
white varieties are still more sick- 
ly flavored than the red. 

The Johnson Mulberry is an im 
proved seedling from Ohio. 

The European variety is larger and less elongated than the 
American, and is by some esteemed for its flavor, but in this 
respect it has similar defects. 

The trees, which form a fine shade, may be transferred from 
the woods, or raised from seed or cuttings. 



h. Young branch, with its ament or 
catkin, showing the stamens. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



359 



The silk- worm feeds upon the leaves of almost every variety 
of mulberry, but the white-fruited kinds, with the very large- 
leaved ]Morus Multicaulis, are chiefly fed for silk. 

VAJpiETIES, 

Morus Rubra, or common wild red Mulberry (Fig. 221). 
Morus Johnsonii, or Johnson's Mulberry. 
Morus Nigra, or European Mulberry. 

THE NECTARINE. 

The Nectarine is a mere ^^"- ^^^" 

sub-variety of the peach, 
from the pits of which new 
kinds of the nectarine are 
sometimes "accidentally" 
produced. It has a smooth 
skin, and also some pleas- 
ant peculiarities of flavor, 
which render it a desirable 
fruit ; but it is exposed to 
the attacks of the curculio 
and other insects to such 
an extent as almost entire- 
ly to discourage its culti- 
vation. 

It is treated in all re- 
spects like the peach, tak- 
ing the same precautions 
against the worm in the 
root, and adding, as paving 
can not be resorted to, the 
practice of jarring the cur- 
culio into sheets, as direct- 
ed for the plum, page 279. 

In those districts of 
country where the latter 

fruit is successfully raised, b. Medium Nectarine. 

the nectarine would probably succeed also, and would be found 
a pleasant acquisition. 




360 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

NECTARINES 

Numbered nearly in the order of ripening. 

FREESTONES. 



1. Early Violet. 

2. Hunt's Tawney. 

3. Hardwicke. 



4. El Ruge. 

5. New White. 

6. Boston. 



CLINGSTONES. 

7. Newington. 8. Roman. 

NUTS. 

The butternut, Juglans cinerea ; the black walnut, Juglans 
nigra ; the shatter-bark hickory-nut, Gary a alba ; and the 
chestnut, Castanea Americana, which are common in the 
Northern and Eastern States ; the chinquapin, or small chest- 
nut, Castanea pumila, of Pennsylvania and southward ; with 
the pecan-nut (French pacanier), Juglans oUvceformis, and 
the peanut of the Southwest and South, are all familiar to 
my readers. The Madeira-nut, Juglans regia, is a thin- shell- 
ed and valuable nut, the trees of which are cultivated to some 
extent among us, but which might probably be grafted upon 
either the butternut or any variety of the hickory. There are 
also a number of varieties of filbert, some of which are occa- 
sionally seen, but seldom in the green state, in our markets. 
They generally have thinner shells, and better flavored and 
larger kernels than the hazel-nut ; they are rather elongated 
in form, and the husk of some kinds is peculiarly and hand- 
somely fringed. 

The varieties are the Cosford, the Red-kerneled, the White, 
the Frizzled. They are all easily raised from offshoots, or may 
be grafted with perfect success upon the common hazel-nut. 

There is a rather new small nut, which, though not a tree, 
may be mentioned here. It is the Earth Almond or " Chufa," 
Cyperus esculentus. This sweet and pleasant nut is pro- 
duced abundantly upon the roots of a plant that resembles low 
tussock grass. The nuts, which are about the size of lai-ge 
bush beans, should be planted or sown in drills twelve or 
eighteen inches apart, and an inch deep, at corn-planting 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



B61 



Fig. 223. 



time, and require during their growth only ordinary and not 
deep culture, with a slight earthing up in the process. The 
first frost in fall changes the foliage, after which they may be 
taken up at any time before severe cold, and dried and stored 
for winter use. They require to be washed or cleaned by fric- 
tion, and may be eaten as chestnuts, either raw or boiled. 
They are native in Southern Europe, and are supposed to be 
nutritive and fattening. In certain soils and localities, how- 
ever, they might become troublesome as an ineradicable knot 
grass, of which the plant is a cultivated variety, 

OLIVE. 

The Olive is a small dark or green plum-like fruit, which, 
while quite tender, is used for making pick- 
les. For this purpose they are steeped 
in weak ley, washed off, and bottled in 
brine, with sweet fennel or spice for fla- 
voring. 

They are, however, chiefly valuable for 
the sweet limpid oil they yield, which in 
Southern Europe enters largely into the 
ordinary course of cookery, forms a sub- 
stitute for butter and cream, and is es- 
teemed as affording both comforts and lux- 
uries in families. It forms also an im- 
portant article of commerce. The tree at- 
tains a height of perhaps twenty feet, 
bears in a few years after planting, prefers 
the rockiest limestone regions, such as is 
the Mount of Olives in sacred story, and 
is very long lived. It is also tolerably hardy, and probably 
might be raised to profit at the South. The tree is propagated 
readily from seeds, cuttings, or layers, and also by small knot- 
buds, or " eggs," which are formed upon the trunk, and which 
are planted in the same manner as the seeds, the latter, how- 
ever, producing the best trees. It might doubtless be grafted 
successfully on the common wild olive or " devil-wood." 

Q 




a. i-ingle fruit. 

b. Branch with 
fruit. 



362 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



THE ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, CITRON, AND SHADDOCK. 

Fig. 224 




rf. Citron. 



For all these fruits, the wild orange of the South affords a 
ready supply of suitable stocks upon which they may be bud- 
ded or grafted. In forming orange orchards, the trees may be 
planted from eight to twenty feet apart, in rich, strong sod. 

There is a considerable variety of oranges, some of which 
have red pulp, and all fragrant blossoms. The Bergamot va- 
riety yields the essence known by that name, by distillation 
from its flowers, fruit, and leaves. The Bitter or Seville or- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



363 




ange is valued for making 
marmalade. Of the eat- 
able kinds, the St. Micha- 
el's, though small, is most 
esteemed for its delightful 
sweetness. There is also 
a sweet lemon grown in 
Italy, which resembles a 
second-rate orange. 

The lemon is the well- 
known fine acid fruit of 



[^haddock. 



commerce. 

The lime is a smaller and somewhat inferior fruit, but is 
especially esteemed in the green state for preserves. 

The citron is a rough fruit, with a very thick rind, larger 
than the largest lemon, but inferior in the quality of its acid. 
The candied citron of the confectioners is made from its skin. 

The shaddock is a still larger fruit, in form more resembling 
the orange, curious but worthless. 

THE PEACH. 

Of the two distinct classes into which peaches are divided, 
as freestones or clings, the cultivation of the latter has been 
almost entirely abandoned, the exceptions consisting of a few 
kinds of peculiar excellence or for special uses, as the Heath 
and Lemon clings. Their other natural division into white, or 
yellow, or red fleshed, is equally marked, and furnishes some 
aid in making selections. The finer white-fleshed varieties 
furnish those of a more sugary and sometimes aromatic flavor ; 
the choice yellow - fleshed are almost uniformly vinous and 
sprightly ; the red-fleshed or blood peach is usually more acid 
than is agreeable, except for preserving. 

There are two common forms of the peach, which are of 
some distinctness, the round and the long. Generally the 
rounder forms (Fig. 225 a), which are also often slightly flat- 
tened, or apple-form, indicate the higher grades of the fruit, 
and include almost the whole list of superior peaches. 

The elongated and compressed forms, with sometimes a heavy 



364 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 225, a. 




suture (Fig. 225 b), approximating more nearly to the natural 

Fig. 225, b. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 365 

and thinner-fleshed form of the almond, include almost all the 
inferior varieties down to those known as " hog peaches." 

Until within the last thirty years, the peach-tree grew so 
luxuriantly, and bore so abundantly without any care, that the 
little labor which it now requires to bring it to maturity and 
renew it every two or three years, since it can not be perpetu- 
ated, is not unfrequently neglected or begrudged. It is still 
the most easily raised of all our larger fruits. A few pits from 
common and healthy fruit, kept and planted as directed page 
204, will furnish stocks of from tlu'ee to five feet high, ready 
for budding the first fall, upon which fruit of the finer varieties 
may be expected in the third or fourth year from the pit. If 
from any cause seedling peach stocks are not budded in the 
fall of their first year, unless a high-stemmed stock is desired, 
cut them down to the ground early in the following spring, 
and permit a single shoot to grow from the stump for budding 
in the succeeding fall. The necessity for this course should 
be avoided by timely planting of the pits, careful summer cul- 
ture of the young plants, and attention to budding and unbind- 
ing in proper season ; but if it becomes necessary, it is better 
than to leave the stock to an uninterrupted second year's 
growth. The young trees may be set out and headed down ei- 
ther the following spring before the bud starts, or, being headed 
down, as directed page 225, may be left to stand another year, 
when the growth from the bud will vary from four to seven or 
eight feet high. 

In their culture, from the start, let the head of the tree be 
kept moderately open by cutting out a foot or two of the ex- 
tremity or leader of the first year's growth from the bud, thin- 
ning the branches annually afterward, and every spring short- 
ening each young shoot one half of its growth of the previous 
year. Set your peach-trees where they can be kept clean, and 
cultivated as summer crops, and never, if it can be avoided, 
where the sod is to remain unbroken around them. If this can 
not be conveniently avoided, treat them with liquid manure re- 
peatedly through the summer over a space somewhat larger 
than the spread of the top, and dress in the spring with ash 
compost or guano to the same extent ; yet be careful in all 



366 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



cases not to stimulate them too highly, especially in northern 
latitudes, or they will probably be winter-killed. 

For modes of treating the worm and yellows, see pages 262 
and 277. 

In orchard culture, the trees are set out at from twelve to 
fifteen feet apart, and cultivated with the plow, more or less of 
summer crops, as potatoes, &c., being raised between them. 
The trees usually yield two or three crops and die, being suc- 
ceeded by new plantings upon other spots. Under this system, 
the light sands of New Jersey and the richer soils of Delaware 
furnish the immense annual supplies which, unless cut off by 
frost, glut our city markets. 

SELECT LIST OP PEACHES, 

Numbered nearly in the order in wJiich they will ripen in any 
given soil and latitude^ with their usual time of ripening at 
New York. 

The size of this fruit depends so much upon soil, culture, 
&c., that I have not deemed it worth while to note it particu- 
larly. Those marked with a star are yellow-fleshed. 



FREESTONES. 



Tillotsoii, ripens early in August. 

Troth's Early, early in August. 

Gross Mignonne, mid-August. 

Coolidge's Favorite, mid- August. 

Early York (Serrate), after mid- 
August. 

Walter's Earty, late August. 

Ked Rareripe (Morris's), last of 
August. 

George the Fourth, late August. 

Crawford's Early, last of August. 

Noblesse, last of August. 

Oldmixon Free, early in Septem- 
ber. 



*12. 



13. 
*14. 



*17. 



20, 



Bergen Yellow, early in Sep- 
tember. 

Nivette, early in September. 

Scott's Nonpareil, mid-Septem- 
ber. 

Morris Wliite, September. 

Late Admirable, mid- Septem- 
ber. 

Crawford's Late, after mid-Sep- 
tember. 

Druid Hill, last of September. 

La Grange, last of September 
and into October. 

Ward's Late, early in October. 



81. Oldmixon Cling, early in Sep- 
tember. 
*22. Lemon Cling, after mid-Sep- 
tember. 



23. Hyslop's Cling, early in Octo- 

ber. 

24. Heath Cling, October, and keeps. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 367 



THE PEAR. 



If there is some difl&culty in making choice of an assortment 
of apples, there is still more in suitably selecting pears. 

This arises not only from the great number of kinds, in- 
creased by the annual introduction of new ones, but also still 
more from the generally perishable nature of the fruit, and its 
extreme liability to vary in character, and often to become 
worthless from peculiarities of soil, season, or general climate. 
Individual taste has also more to do with the reputation of 
pears than perhaps with that of any other fruit, comparatively 
few persons having such a range of acquaintance with kinds as 
to qualify them to form a discriminating judgment by compar- 
ison. 

A gentleman who, in his youth, had eaten pears from a cer- 
tain tree, and remembered them as finer than any others he had 
ever tasted, rode forty miles to enjoy again the favorite of his 
boyhood, and to obtain scions that he might place it foremost 
in his fruit garden, but he found it utterly worthless in com- 
parison with those he already possessed. The circle of his 
knowledge had been enlarged, and his maturer judgment did 
not verify the impression of his inexperience. 

We have, however, attempted to name an assortment of kinds 
that will not disappoint the cultivator, although in reference 
to some of them much diversity of opinion still exists, and care- 
ful attention to the remarks on introducing new varieties (pages 
190 and 192) is especially urged in this connection. 

Pear-trees generally, if on good seedling stocks, form longer, 
and fewer, and less fibrous roots than apple or cheny-trees. It 
is therefore peculiarly proper that they should be set out while 
small, having their roots well shortened, and the top cut back 
to balance. A strong cedar, or locust, or chestnut- stake, deep- 
ly set by each tree, will defend it ; and if the tree be of irreg- 
ular or drooping habit, the stake may be used to support it, and 
aid in training it upward. See page 246. Many kinds of 
pear-trees have habits of growth that render them unsightly, 
and make it sometimes difficult to secure the fruit, the tree be- 



368 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

ing either straggling or rampant. Such should be carefully 
watched and summer pruned by nipping, and, if need be, by 
cutting back in August. The Seckel, and, still more striking- 
ly, the Lodge, when growing naturally on moderate soil, afford 
models for the general formation of the head of pear-trees, al- 
though each of these may need to have the young cross- shoots 
nipped out, and occasionally, perhaps, the shortening of a vig- 
orous upright leader. 

The distance for planting pear-trees may be from twenty to 
thirty feet each way, the trees being alternated or in diamond 
form, not in precise squares. Dwarfed pears may be set from 
six to ten feet apart. 

The best soil for pears, in general, is a deep warm loam, but 
there are varieties suited to all soils ; and even from those 
which are cold and unpromising, if the hardier and sweeter 
summer and fall varieties are selected, fruit of fair quality may 
be obtained, if it is properly treated after being gathered. 

Winter pears may be suffered to hang as long as they are 
safe from frost, but all the varieties of summer and fall pears 
should be gathered before they " turn" upon the tree, and be 
kept in a warm, dry room to hasten their ripening ; but if it be 
an object to retard this, or for all winter kinds, let them be 
wrapped and packed in barrels or boxes as directed for the finer 
apples, page 289. On being brought from their cool place of 
deposit into the warmth in such small quantities as may fi-om 
time to time be desirable, they will ripen promptly and finely 
for use. 

There are as yet but few very fine winter or spring varieties 
of pears, and the variableness of character above referred to is 
perhaps more noticeable and more discouraging to the cultiva- 
tor in these than in the ordinary summer and fall kinds, but 
such as we have will well repay the care needed for preserving 
and ripening them. 

Winter pears, suitable for cooking, abound, and may be kept 
safely in barrels in the same manner as apples ; and when baked 
or stewed as directed for the latter, page 289, but with water 
enough to cover them, they constitute another healthful and 
pleasant substitute for indigestible sweetmeats or preserves. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



369 



SELECT LIST OF PEARS 

Numbered nearly in the order in ivhicJi they will ripen in 
any given soil and latitude. 

Most of the kinds will succeed dwarfed upon the quince, 
perhaps especially the varieties named from 1 to 11. See 
page 206, In a few kinds the size and quality of the fruit 
will be improved by this process, particularly Louise Bonne de 
Jersey, Beurre Diel, Duchesse d'Angouleme, and some others. 
The ordinary time of their ripening at New York accompanies 
the figure and description given below. 



1. Madeline. 


22. 


Petre. 


2. Bloodgood. 


23. 


Seckel. 


3. Dearborn's Seedling. 


24. 


Virgalieu (or White Doyenne). 


4. Julienne. 


25. 


Gray Virgalieu (or Gray Doy- 


5. Tyson. 




enne). 


6. Rostiezer. 


26. 


Beurre Diel. 


7. Summer Franc Real. 


27. 


Duchesse d'Angouleme. 


8. Bartlett. 


28. 


Dix. 


9. Canandaigua. 


29. 


Onondaga. 


10. Vanilla. 


30. 


Oswego Beurre. 


11. Stevens's Genesee. 


31. 


Beurre d'Aremberg. 


12. Dunmore. 


32. 


Glout Morceau. 


13. Heathcot. 


33. 


Passe Colmar. 


14. Fondante d'Automne. 


34. 


Lawrence. 


15. Lodge. 


35. 


Columbia. 


16. Flemish Beauty. 


36. 


Knight's Monarch. 


17. Maria Louisa. 


37. 


Chaumontelle. 


18. Ananas. 


38. 


Winter Nelis. 


19. Louise Bonne de Jersey. 


39. 


Winter Bell. 


20. Beurre Bosc. 


40. 


Easter Beurre. 


21. Urbaniste. 







Heretofore the orchard cultivation of winter pears, either for 
eating out of hand or cooking, has not been extensively pur- 
sued ; a few of the larger kinds of the latter class have for 
.many years been raised for exportation to the West Indies and 
the extreme South. The cultivation of both classes might, no 
doubt, be profitably extended. Those calculated for cooking 
only, as the Winter Bell, Cattillac, and Black Pear of Worces- 
ter, may be successfully raised in localities and on soils too cold 
for the production of the others. 

Q2 



370 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 226. 




1. MADELINE, 

Tree erect and very vigor- 
ous ; young shoots olive. 

Bears early and well, but is 
subject to sour-sap blight, par- 
ticularly in rich, moist soils. 

Fruit below medium ; almost 
obovate ; smooth yellowish- 
green. 

Flesh white, melting, juicy ; 
sweet, sometimes slightly acid. 

Matures from the middle to 
the last of July. Should be 
gathered in season, and ripened 
in the house. 

2. BLOODGOOD. 
Fig. 227. 



Tree of free but not 
vigorous growth ; shoots 
reddish - brown. Hardy, 
and bears well. 

Fruit below medium ; 
pretty uniformly turbin- 
ate ; dull yellow, slightly 
russeted. 

Flesh yellowish- white, 
buttery, melting. 

Flavor rich, sweet, and 
aromatic. 

Ripens best in the 
house, from last of July 
to near mid- August. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



371 



Fig. 228. 




dearborn's seedling. 

Tree vigorous, rather spread- 
ing ; shoots dark brown. Bears 
abundantly in all soils. 

Fruit small ; regularly tur- 
binate ; light clear yellow, with 
a little russet. Skin very 
thin. 

Flesh white, juicy, melting. 

Flavor sweet and sprightly, 
with a pleasant perfume. 

4. JULIENNE. 
Fig. 229. 




Tree thrifty, upright ; 
shoots light yellowish- 
brown. A good and con- 
stant bearer, but suited 
only for rich, warm soils 
and favorable localities ; 
requiring high culture. 

Fruit below medium ; 
regular obovate ; clear 
yelloAV. 

Flesh white, and half 
buttery, not fine-grained. 

Flavor sweet, sometimes very slightly astringent, and, when 
raised in warm soils, with house ripening, very good. 

Ripens in the latter part of August. 



372 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



5. TYSON. 



Fig. 230. 




Tree erect, of ^rcat vigor ; 
shoots dark olive. Bears well. 

Fruit small ; nearly pyri- 
form ; dull ycllowish-grcen, 
with a reddisli-])rown cheek, 
and a little russeted. 

Flesh not fine-grained, but 
extremely juicy and melting. 

Flavor sweet, rich, and per- 
fumed. One of the best sum- 
mer pears. Ripens last of 
August and onward. 



Tree upright, vigorous ; 
young shoots dark red- 
dish-brown. Bears well. 

Fruit nearly medium ; 
short piriform, irregular ; 
yellow, a little russet, with 
red-brown cheek. 

Flesh white, fine-grain- 
ed, melting, and juicy. 

Flavor sugary, aromat- 
ic, and fine. Ripens last 
of August. 

C. ROSTIEZEE. 
Fig. 231. 




AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



373 



7. SUMMER FRANC REAL. 
Fig. 232. 




Tree hardy, and of moderate growth ; young shoots downy. 
Bears well in all soils. 

Fruit nearly medium ; somewhat obovatc, largest in the mid- 
dle, ami tapering pretty equally e;K;h way ; yellowish-green. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, buttery, and melting. 

Flavor sweet, rich, and excellent. Ripens last of August 
and first of September. 

The Franc Real is one of the most desirable of summer 
pears. In favorable circumstances it is almost uniformly of 
fair size, and perfect. Its character is very decidedly above 
that of any pear which precedes it in ripening ; and with its 
facility of adaptation to various soils, its healthful growth, and 
good bearing (j^ualities, it will be found an acquisition to the 
fruit plot. Its name is said to be derived from a Spanish gold 
coin. 



374 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

8. BARTLETT. 

Fig. 233. 




Tree upright, and tolerably thrifty ; young shoots yellowish- 
brown. Bears early and freely. 

Fruit large to very large ; variable in form, mostly obtuse 
pyriform, often almost oval pyriform, imperfectly pyramidal, 
sometimes nearly obovate ; clear yellow when ripe, with some- 
times a blush cheek, and smooth but wavy surface. Stem 
rather short. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, juicy, and melting. 

Flavor fine, sprightly, vinous, with a pleasant perfume. In 
cold soils and unfavorable localities subacid or almost acid. 

Ripens from mid- August to mid-September. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 375 

9. CANANDAIGUA. 

Tree extremely vigorous, throwing up a growth of six or 
Fig. 234. eight feet from the 

graft in one season, 
demanding careful 
cutting back to give 
strength of stem, 
otherwise apt to lop 
and grow unsym- 
metrically. Young 
shoots dark olive- 
green, erect. An 
early and heavy 
bearer. Fruit large 
to very large, irreg- 
ular pyriform, some- 
times almost oval 
pyriform ; dull yel- 
low, with thin rus- 
set spots, and many 
small obscure inden- 
tations of surface. 
Stem rather long. 

Flesh yellowish- 
white, fine-grained, 
buttery, perfectly 
melting, and very 
juicy. 

Flavor rich vinous and perfumed. Ripens with the Bart- 
lett from the last of August to the middle of September ; is 
sometimes sold for Bartlett, which it often closely resembles, 
but is probably, on the whole, superior to it. 

It is an American pear of striking and peculiar excellences ; 
and though the place and date of its origin are in uncertainty, 
it has, by common consent, received the name of Canandaigua, 
having at least been most largely disseminated from that beau- 
tiful village and region. 




376 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

10. VANILLA. 

rig. 235. 




Tree upright, of free growth while young, but checking with 
its early and abundant bearing, and forming a somewhat spread- 
ing head. Young shoots dark olive-brown. Fruit medium 
or below, especially when bearing heavily ; round, obovate, 
slightly imequal-sided ; bright grass-green, becoming yellow, 
with a few russet spots, and a little light brown russet at the 
insertion of the stem aiid in the eye. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, buttery, and melting. 

Flavor peculiarly high, rich, and aromatic, with a vanilla 
fragrance. Ripens about the last of September. 

The original tree of this exquisite pear was found and still 
stands upon the old Huguenot Church property at New Ro- 
chelle, Westchester county, whence it has been disseminated 
to a limited extent under the names of " Church" and " New 



AMEBIC AN HOME GARDEN. 377 

Rochelle" pear, and perhaps also by other names in different 
localities ; but the name given above is to be preferred, as de- 
scriptive of its most obvious peculiarity when carefully and 
properly ripened. 

11. STEVENS'S GENESEE. 
Fig. 236. 




Tree of great vigor, young shoots dark gray, diverging, sub- 
ject to sour-sap blight. A good bearer. 

Fruit above medium, round, obovate, light yellow, a little 
rough. Flesh white, half buttery, and juicy. 

Flavor fine rich aromatic. Ripens in September. 

This pear is said to be a native of Livingston county, and is 
one of the most valuable of the new pears which Western New 
York has furnished. It belongs to the class of Bergamot pears, 
of which hitherto there have been few good ones, except Gan- 
sell's. It, however, requires guarding against the risk of sour- 
sap blight, to which it is subject. See page 261. 



378 AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 

12. DUNMORE. 
Fig. 237. 




Tree of rather strong growth, young shoots brownish slate- 
color, erect. A very good bearer, its blossoms standing pretty 
hard frosts without injury. Fruit large, oblong-obovate, green- 
ish, with some brownish-red russet. 

Flesh yellowish-white, buttery, and very melting. Flavor 
variable. With high culture, in favorable circumstances, rich 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 379 

and high-flavored ; in opposite conditions often worthless. It 
is suited to warm soils and locations. Ripens from middle of 
September to October. 

13. HEATHCOT. 

Fig. 23S. 




Tree upright, thrifty, and hardy, with reddish-brown shoots. 
An abundant bearer. 

Fruit medium, obovate or slightly rounded ; greenish-yel- 
low, with considerable thin russet. Flesh white, buttery, rath- 
er juicy and melting. 

Flavor vinous, sprightly, and perfumed. Ripens last of 
September. 

This fruit, which originated in Massachusetts less than half 
a century ago, though not of the very highest quality, is valu- 
able for garden or orchard culture. 



a8o 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



14. FONDANTE D'aUTOMNE. 
Fig. 239. 




Tree hardy, of moderate upright growth ; shoots yellowish- 
gray, A good bearer, but suited to dry, warm soils. 

Fruit medium, obovate, pyriform ; pale greenish-yellow, with 
slight russet. Flesh white, fine-grained, melting, and juicy. 

Flavor very variable ; in suitable soil, rich, sugary, per- 
fumed, and delicious ; in moist soils often worthless. Ripens 
in the latter part of September. 

This is a Flemish fruit, and strikingly illustrates the re- 
marks we have made on the effect of soil and the diversity in 
individual estimate of the character of pears. In fltvorable cir- 
cumstances it is of very superior quality, and meets the high- 
est commendation ; in opposite conditions its character is quite 
inferior, and it is deemed a worthless outcast. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



:JH1 



15. LOIXiE. 
I'ii;. 240. 




Tree uy)ri^lit, of mo<lerate growth, forming naturally a per- 
fectly symmetrical "model" head, through which the fruit 
hanf^s singly. Young shoots light brown, with gray specks ; 
short jointed. Bears well annually, even while quite young. 
Rcf[uires warm soil and care north of latitude 4{P. Fruit 
of medium size (the figure is small), variable, generally pyri- 
form, a little one - sided, but sometimes angular or ribbed ; 
greenish, covered with clear brown russet. 

Flesh white, very juicy, melting, and vinous ; when fully 
ripe, excellent. South of Now York it matures thoroughly, and 
stands deservedly high. Ripens about the last of 8ei)tember. 



382 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



16. FLEMISH BEAUTY. 

Fig. 241. 




Tree of very luxuriant growth, upright. 

Young shoots dark brown. Bears young and freely, of fair, 
handsome fruit. 

Fruit large obovate, rather rough, and slightly russeted ; 
pale yellow, with a reddish-brown cheek. 

Flesh yellowish-white, rather coarse, but melting and juicy. 

Flavor variable. In warm soils, and with early gathering 
and house-ripening, it is rich, sugary, aromatic, and excellent, 
but if left too long on the tree it is apt to soften at the core and 
become flavorless. Ripens the last of September, and should 
be eaten without delav. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



383 



17. MARIA LOUISA. 




Tree of strong but straggling growth. 

Shoots olive-gray ; a good bearer, suited to warm soils and 
locations, and high culture. 

Fruit large, pyriform, inclining to oblong ; unequal-sided. 
Greenish, with some light russet. 

Flesh white, melting, and buttery. 

Flavor quite variable ; in suitable conditions, rich, sugary, 
and finely vinous. Ripens last of September and October. 



384 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



18. ANANAS. 
Fig. 243. 




Tree vigorous. 

Young shoots dark brown or olive ; an early and regular 
bearer. 

Fruit uniformly above medium, often large, roundish obovate, 
but variable, sometimes angular or oval obovate ; dull yellow- 
ish-green, marbled with rough brown russet. 

Flesh whitish, fine-grained, melting, and buttery. 

Flavor sweet, rich, and perfumed. Ripens in all Septembei*. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



385 



19. LOUISE BONNE DE JERSEY, 
Fig. 244. 




Tree upriglit, vigorous, and hardy. 

Young shoots dark brown or purplish -olive, with gray specks. 
A very good bearer of uniformly fair fruit. 

Fruit above medium or large ; regular pyriform, or very 
slightly one-sided ; pale green, with grayish dots and brown- 
ish-red cheek. 

Flesh yellowish-white, juicy, and melting. 

Flavor rich, rather vinous, excellent. Ripens from middle 
of September into October. 

R 



386 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



20. BEURRE BOSC. 

Fig. 245. 




Tree of moderate vigor and straggling growth. 
Young shoots brownish-olive. Bears fairly and regularly. 
Fruit pretty long-ncckcd or acute pyriform ; yellow, with 
some light russet, and a brownish-red in the sun. 
Flesh white, melting, and buttery. 
Flavor rich, sweet, and perfumed. Ripens through October. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



387 



21. URBANISTE. 
1 ig. 24C. 




Tree upright, healthful, and moderately vigorous. 

Young shoots grayish-yellow. Not an early, but a good 
hearer, and suiting well in rich soils. 

Fruit medium obovate, inclining to pyramidal ; light yellow, 
with gray dots and some russet. 

Flesh white or yellowish, buttery, melting, and very juicy. 

Flavor rich, perfumed, vinous, or sweet. Ripens in the house 
through October and November. 

The Urbaniste resembles the Virgalieu in quality, and some- 
what also in appearance, though, in general, rather smaller. It 
is of fine healthful growth, and, once in bearing, continues to 
yield its fruit regularly and abundantly. 



388 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



22. PETRE. 
Fig. 247. 




Tree of moderate growth. 

Young shoots slender, yellowish-brown. A good bearer. 

Fruit medium obovate, pyriform ; light yellow, with some 
greenish russet. 

Flesh whitish, fine-grained, buttery. 

Flavor sweet, rich, with a high mvisky flavor when in per- 
fection. Ripens in October, and keeps into November. 

This is a desirable and valuable pear of the Virgalieu class, 
which, if gathered early, may be kept for some time. It was 
raised in Philadelphia by Mr. Bartram, from seed sent to him 
from London in 1735 by Lord Petre. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



389 




23. SECKEL. 

f''s- 243. Tree of healthful, but not 

rapid growth, forming a com- 
pact symmetrical head, not 
attaining a very large size. 

Young shoots brown-olive, 
stout and short. A good and 
regular bearer. 

Fruit small obovate, red- 
dish-brown. 

Flesh Avhite, buttery, juicy, 
and melting. 

Flavor peculiarly high, rich, 
and aromatic. The very finest 
of pears. Ripens in the house 
through September and Octo- 
ber, or later. 

This small but exquisite frait stands deservedly at the head 
of all pears for its peculiarly rich, high flavor. There is no 
European variety that resembles or compares with it. It is 
not a result of careful, intelligent cultivation, but, like many 
of our foremost fruits, an " accidental variety," the precise der- 
ivation of which is unknown. 

The original tree was found near the Delaware, a few miles 
from Philadelphia, and was in bearing at the period of the 
Revolution ; but the fruit remained in obscurity until the land 
on which the parent tree stood, and perhaps still stands, became 
the property of Mr. Seckel, after whom the pear is named, and 
by whom it was first brought to public notice. 

24. viRGALiEU {Fig. 249). 

Tree upright, of medium strength. 

Young shoots light brown ; productive. 

Fruit medium or above, obovate, variable, sometimes almost 
pyriform ; pale clear yellow, speckled with small dots, some- 
times having a fine red cheek. 

Flesh white, very fijie-graincd, buttery, nnd melting. 



390 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 249. 




Flavor rich and exquisite, second only to the Seckeh Rip- 
ens in the house through October and November. 

25. GRAY VIRGALIEU. 

Tree upright, tolerably vigorous, healthier than the Virga- 
lieu. 

Young shoots grayish-brown, or brown with gray dots. A 
good and constant bearer. 

Fruit medium, roundish obovate, covered with rather light 
or golden russet when perfectly ripe. 

Flesh white, very fine-grained, melting, buttery. 

Flavor rich and exquisite, similar to the " Virgalieu," but 
ripens a little later. 

In cold or unfavoral)]o soils or localities this fine pear some- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 250. 



•M)l 




times blasts, but succeeds -well near New York city and south 
of it. 

26. BEURRE DIEL (Fig. 251). 

Tree quite vigorous, but twisting in its growth. 

Young shoots dark grayish-brown. A good bearer, suited 
with high culture and warm soil and season. 

Fruit large, obovate to obtuse pyriform, uneven, of a green- 
ish-yellow, becoming deep yellow, with large spots of russet. 

Flesh yellowish-white, somewhat coarse, half melting, and 
sometimes buttery. 

Flavor variable ; when well ripened, rich, sugary, and excel- 
lent. Ripens tlirough October and November. 



392 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
I-ig. 251. 




27, DUCHESSE D'ANGOULEME. 

Tree of upright, very strong growth, its luxuriance often re- 
quiring to be cheeked by summer or root pruning. 

Young shoots light yellowish-brown, A fair bearer ; best 
suited to warm soils and latitudes. 

Fruit very large, generally obtuse pyriform or oblong-obo- 
vate ; surface knobby and uneven, greenish-yellow, with spots 
and streaks of russet. 

Flesh yellowish-white, rather coarse, juicy, melting, and but- 
tery. 



AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 252. 



'MVi 




Flavor very variable ; on quince stocks, or where the fruit is 
perfected, rich and very good, but worthless on pear stocks at 
the north. Ripens from October to November. 

28. Dix (Fig. 253). 

Tree erect and of moderate vigor. 

Young shoots slender, pale yellow, not coming into bearing 
early, but hardy and productive Avhen of age. 

R 2 



394 



AMERICAN HOME GAEDEN. 

Fig. 253. 




Fruli large, oblong pyriform, rather rough, deep yellow, with 
spots of russet. 

Flesh not very fine-grained, but juicy and melting. 
Flavor rich, sugary, and vinous, with a fine aroma. 
Ripens through October and November. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



395 



The original tree of this variety stands in the garden of Mrs. 
Dix, of Boston, after whom the fruit is named, and has been in 
bearing only about thirty years. It does not bear well while 
young, which may be regarded as an advantage on the whole, 
and as indicating soundness of constitution, and warranting the 
expectation of a fruitful and prolonged maturity. 

29. ONONDAGA. 
Fig. 254 




Tree upright, vigorous. 
Young shoots yellowish-green or light olive, 
regular bearer. 



An early and 



396 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fruit large, variable, obovate or oval pyriform ; golden yel- 
low when fully ripe, with russet dots, and sometimes a faint 
blush cheek. 

Flesh white, juicy, and buttery. 

Flavor varying ; at its best, rich, aromatic, and vinous, or 
slightly subacid. Ripens in October and November. 

30. OSWEGO. 

Fig. 255. 




Tree hardy and vigorous, of rather spreading habit. 

Young shoots reddish-brown, with many distinct gray dots. 
Bears early and abundantly. 

Fruit medium, roundish obovate ; dull yellowish-green, with 
spots of thin russet 

Flesh white, melting, and juicy. 

Flavor sprightly, vinous, or almost sweet. . Ripens in Octo- 
ber and November. 

This is a native of Western New York, hardy, very produc- 
tive, and an early bearer either on pear or quince, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



397 



31. BEURRE d'AREMBERG. 

Fig. 256. 




Tree strong, upright, with young shoots of a yellowish- 
brown, with pale specks. An abundant and constant bearer 
of fine fruit, but requiring high culture and summer pruning, 
with careful ripening, to perfect it. 

Fruit pretty large, obovate, with much taper toward the 
stem, becoming obtuse pyriform ; yellow, with much light 
russet. 

Flesh white, buttery, and melting, and quite juicy. 

Flavor rich, sprightly, and vinous. Ripens from November 
to January. 



398 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



32, GLOUT MORCEAU. 

Fig. 25T. 




Tree of fine pyramidal growth, somewhat spreading. 

Young shoots of a bluish or olive-green. A good bearer, 
suited with strong soil and high culture. 

Fruit large, almost oval or obtuse pyriform, often irregular ; 
greenish-yellow, with some russet and many greenish russet 
specks. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, melting, and buttery. 

Flavor rich, perfumed, dead .sweet. Ripens from December 
to February. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



399 



33. PASSE COLMAR. 
Fig. 258. 




Tree very vigorous, with long, straggling, brownish-yellow 
shoots. Often bears too abundantly, and requires that the 
crop be thinned. Needs high culture. 

Fmit pretty lai'ge, variable, obtuse pyriform or obovate; 
pale yellow at maturity, with considerable sprinkling of russet. 

Flesh yellowish- white, juicy, and buttery. 

Flavor, when well ripened, rich, sweet, and aromatic. Rip- 
ens from Noveml)er to January. 



400 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



34. LAWRENCE. 
Fig. 259. 




Tree of moderate vigor and somewhat thorny. 

Young shoots light brown, rather slender. An abundant 
bearer. 

Fruit rather large, long obovate, sometimes almost pyriform, 
obtuse at the stem ; dull yellowish-green, with small patches 
of russet near the ends. 

Flesh yellowish-white, juicy, melting, sometimes gritty at 
the core. 

Flavor, when well raised and ripened, rich and sugary. 
Ripens from November throughout the winter. 

The Lawrence is a new American pear, which originated at 
Flushing, Long Island, a few years ago, and promises to be an 
acquisition, particularly for orchard culture, either on the pear 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



401 



or quince stock, afibrding a good winter fruit, not liable to 
shrivel or decay. 



35. COLUMBIA. 
Fig. 2fi0. 




Tree of upright strong growth, with brownish-yellow shoots. 
Bears largely and constantly ; foir marketable fruit. 

Fruit rather large, regular, long obovate, inclining to ob- 
long ; fine golden yellow at maturity, with gray dots. 

Flesh white, not fine-grained, but juicy and melting. 

Flavor sweet, rich, and aromatic. Ripens through Decem- 
ber and into January. 

This fruit originated upon the land of Mr. Andrew Corsa, in 
the lower part of Westchester county, New York. The parent 



402 AMERICAN HOME (JARDEN. 

tree has been supposed to have sprung from a seed thrown away 
by some soldier of the British Hessian troops, whose encamp- 
ment at one period of the Revolutionary war covered or ad- 
joined the spot where it grew. 

36. knight's monarch. 

Fig. 261. 




Tree strong, upright. 

Young shoots yellowish or light olive. An abundant bearer. 

Fruit large, obovate, regular ; yellowish-brown, with red- 
dish cheek and numerous gray dots. A peai' of mark and ex- 
cellence, but not yet fully proved with us. 

Flesh yellowish- white, melting, and juicy. 

Flavor rich, musky, and excellent. Ripens through Jan- 
uary. Requires very high culture. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



403 



37. OHAUMONTELLE. 

Fig. 2G'2. 




Tree vigorous, with long, slender, dark brown, flexuous 
shoots. Requires high culture, and warm soil and locality. 
At the north succeeds only on the quince. A fair bearer. 

Fruit large, oblong obovate, somewhat A^ariable, rather rough ; 
yellow, with brownish-red on the sunny side. 

Flesh melting and buttery. 

Flavor sugary and pleasantly perfumed. Ripens from No- 
vemlier to January, or later. 



404 • AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

38. WINTER NELIS. 
Fig. 2G3. 




Tree hardy and thrifty, the young branches light olive, very 
slender and diverging. A good and regular bearer of fair 
fruit. 

Fruit medium or below, round obovate ; yellowish-green 
when ripe, with much russet. 

Flesh yellowish- white, fine-grained, melting, and juicy. 

Flavor rich, sugary, and aromatic. The best of winter pears. 
Ripens in December and January. 

39. WINTER BELL. 

Tree of strong, erect growth. 

Young shoots very dark olive. A good or heavy bearer. 
Fruit large to very large, irregularly obtuse or oval pyri- 
form ; yellowish-green, with a brownish-red cheek. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 264. 



405 



Flesh hard and coarse ; tender and of a reddish color when 
cooked. 

Flavor a rough sub-acid, becoming rich and excellent when 
baked or stewed. See pages 289, 368. . 

The Vicar of Winkfield may be substituted for this if it be 
desired to have a cooking fruit which is also sometimes good 
to eat out of hand, or that fine old French variety, the Catil- 
lac, may take its place. 



406 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



40. EASTER BEURRE. 
Fig. 2G5. 




Tree thrifty, erect, forming rather a compact and symmetri- 
cal head. Bears well, but requires high culture. 

Fruit medium or above, obtuse obovate ; greenish, with some 
spots of brownish russet. 

Flesh white, fine-grained, melting, and buttery. 

Flavor> when well raised and ripened, fine, sweet, and rich. 
Ripens from December to May. 

The Easter Beurre, in ungenial soils and climates, some- 
times disappoints the cultivator by its persistent immaturity. 

It should have good soil, culture, and climate, be carefully 
gathered and wintered as directed p. 368, and ripened in spring. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 407 

THE PLUM. 

This is a pleasant and rather useful finiit, which every house- 
keeper wishes to possess, but can not always secure, the varie- 
ties which are in a- measure exempt from fatal disease or the de- 
structive assaults of insects being so few that, in selecting this 
fruit, we rather take what we can get than what we might de- 
sire. 

Many different varieties of this fruit are dried, and become 
articles of commerce in the form of prunes, prunelles (that is, 
prunes skinned and pitted), and common dried plums. 

Plums may be planted at the distance of ten or twelve feet 
each way ; and wherever they can be raised successfully, or in 
particular seasons when the fruit is perfected, they constitute 
a profitable market crop. 

The trees should be carefully planted while quite young, and 
the head properly formed and balanced by both winter and 
summer pruning, many of the varieties having a natural tend- 
ency to long growth, which caiTies the fruit out of reach if 
pruning is neglected. 

A strong loam or a clay soil is thought best suited to plum- 
trees, although they will grow thriftily even in very light soils ; 
and it may l^e that a heavy cold clay soil is rather specially 
unfavorable to the insects Avhich injm-e them than directly fo- 
vorable to the fruit. 

SELECT LIST OF PLUMS 

Numbered nearly in the order in which they luill hefound_ to 
ripen in any given soil and latitude. 

The ordinary time of their ripening at New York accompa- 
nies the figure and following description. Those marked with 
a star are green or yellow. 



1. 


Ottoman. 


*8. 


Lawrence's Favorite 


*2. 


Hudson Gage. 


*9. 


Washington. 


3. 


Peach. 


10. 


Lombard. 


4. 


Duane's Purple. 


*11. 


Bleecker's Gage. 


5. 


Schenectady. 


12. 


Smith's Orleans. 


*G. 


M'Laughlin. 


13. 


Cruger's Scarlet. 


*7. 


Green Gage. 


U. 


Columbian Gage. 



408 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



*15. Jefferson. *21. Coe's Golden Drop, 
*1G. Imperial Gage. 22. Coe's Late Red, 

1 7. Purple Gage, 23. Blue Imperatrice. 

18. Manning's Long Blue. 24. Frost Gage. 

19. Dominic Dull. 2;"). Ickworth. 
*20, Catharine. 

This list, though so brief, will, it is believed, be found to in- 
clude most of the really fine and valuable plums we possess, 
from the earliest to the latest varieties, but it may easily be 
doubled or tripled, if necessary, 

1. OTTOMAN {Fig. 266). 

Tree a moderate grower and good bearer. Young branches 
somewhat downy. Fruit rather small ; dull yellow, with mar- 
blings of a darker shade, and having a thin bloom. 

Flesh juicy, sweet, and good, cleaving to the stone, Ripens 
last of July, 



Fig. 266. 



Fig. 26T. 





*2, HUDSON GAGE {Fig. 267), 

Tree of free growth and a good bearer. 

Young branches slightly downy. 

Fruit medium ; yellow, with streaks of green under the skin, 
with a light bloom. 

Flesh greenish, juicy, melting, and of fine flavor ; almost free 
from the stone. Ripens first of August. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



409 



Fig. 268. 




PEACH. 

Tree of rapid and strong 
growth, and a good bearer. 

Young branches of a pur- 
ple tint, smooth. 

Fruit large roundish flat- 
tened ; purplish -red, with 
spots of light bronze or rus- 
set, nearly covered with a 
blue bloom. 

Flesh greenish - yellow, 
juicy, and sweet ; not fine- 
grained ; a partial free- 
stone. Ripens in the first 
half of August. 



4. duane's purple. 
i^ig- 269. Tree of strong growth ; 

a moderate bearer. 

Young branches and 
leaves gray and downy. 

Fruit large, light pur- 
ple or red, with yellow 
specks and light bloom. 
Oblong or oval, one-sided. 

Flesh amber-colored, not 
very juicy, but of fair qual- 
ity, or rather rich ; clings 
to the stone. Ripens to- 
ward the middle of Au- 
gust. 

This early and very 
showy plum is sometimes 
rather acid, but in favora- 
ble seasons good, or first- 
rate. 

It is also valuable as a market fruit. 

S 




410 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



5. SCHENECTADY {Fig. 270). 
Tree of fair growth and a free bearer. 
Young branches smooth and rather slender. 
Fruit medium, round-oval ; deep purple. 
Flesh greenish-yellow, melting, juicy, and rich. Ripens 
about the mitldle of August. 



Fig. 270. 



Fig. 271. 




*6. MCLAUGHLIN {Fig. 271). 

Tree of strong, free growth, and a good bearer. 
Young branches smooth. 

Fruit large, roundish, russet-yellow, with red or purplish tint. 
Flesh yellow, somewhat firm, juicy, sweet, and rich ; clings 
to the stone. Ripens about the middle of August. 

*7. GREEN GAGE {Fig. 272). 

Tree of slow growth and dwarfish habit, but a good bearer. 

Young branches smooth, with large shouldered buds. 

Fruit medium or below, nearly round, yellowish-green when 
ripe, with slight dottings or marblings of red. 

Flesh pale green, melting, juicy, sprightly, luscious ; a free- 
stone. Ripens about the middle of August. The finest fla- 
vored and richest of plums. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 2T2. Fig. 273. 



411 





8. *lawrence's FAVORITE {Fig. 273). 

Tree thrifty -and upright ; a good bearer. 

Young branches downy and short jointed. 

Fruit pretty large, roundish, somewhat flattened ; dull yel- 
lowish-green, with darker streaks beneath, and covered with 
bloom, and some reddish dots and mottling in the sun. 

Flesh greenish, very juicy, melting, and rich ; a free-stone 
when fully ripe. Ripens about the middle of August. 



*9. WASHINGTON. 



Fig. 274 




Tree of very vigorous 
growth and a free bearer. 

Young branches downy. 

Fruit very large round- 
ish oval, dull yellow marbled 
with green, and a few red- 
dish dots in the sun. 

Flesh yellow, firm, but 
sweet and good ; a free-stone. 
Ripens after mid-August. 

This fine plum was first 
fruited about forty years ago 
by Mr. Wm. Bolmer, a mer- 
chant of New York city, and 
often bears his name. 



412 



AMEEICAN HOME GAEDEN. 



10. LOMBARD {Fig. 275). 

Tree thrifty and an abundant bearer, suited to light soils. 

Young branches smooth, bright purple. 

Fruit medium roundish oval, a little flattened, pale violet- 
red, with dots of deeper red, and 
a thin bloom. 

Flesh yellow, juicy, and pleas- 
ant ; clings to the stone. Rip- 
ens from the middle to the close 
of August. 

Fig. 2T5. 



Fig. 2T6. 





*11. bleecker's gage {Fig. 276). 

Tree a good healthy grower, and regular and free bearer. 

Young branches downy. 

Fruit medium roundish oval, yellow specked with white, 
and having a thin bloom. 

Flesh yellow, sweet, and excellent ; almost a free - stone. 
Ripens from the middle to the close of August. 

12. smith's ORLEANS {Fig. 277). 

Tree extremely vigorous, and a good and constant bearer in 
all soils, adapting itself also to varieties of climate. 

Young branches very slightly downy ; purplish. 

Fruit large oval, inclining to oblong ; purplish-red, covered 
with a deep blue bloom. 



AMEKICAN HOME GARDEN, 



413 



Flesh yellow, somewhat firm, but juicy, sprightly, and vin- 
ous ; clings to the stone. Ripens toward the last of August. 

This plum was raised some thirty-five years ago at Gowanus, 
Long Island, by Mr. Smith, from a seed of the " Orleans," one 
of the oldest, if not the very oldest, of om* dessert plums, and 
is named after the originator and the variety from which it 
was produced. Li general, it is the finest of the class of vin- 
ous-flavored plums, but on strong cold soils becomes too acid for 
eating out of hand. Its large size and productiveness, with 
its general excellence, and the habit of hanging long on the 
tree, will render it always a favorite and profitable fruit. 

Fig. 27T. Fig. 2T8. 




13, cruger's scarlet {Fig. 278). 

Tree of free growth, and bearing freely and constantly ; it is 
superior for light soils, being but little subject to injury from 
the curculio. 

Young branches downy. 

Fmit medium round oval ; bright red or lilac, with golden 
dots and a thin bluish bloom. 

Flesh orange, rather dry, of a mild, but lively and pleasant 
sweetness. Ripens about the last of August, and hangs long 
on the tree. 

It is a valuable market fruit. 



414 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 2T9, 




COLUMBIAN GAGE. 

Tree of strong growth 
and spreading habit ; a 
very good bearer. 

Branches when young, 
downy ; stout. 

Fruit very large, near- 
ly globular ; brownish 
purple, reddish in the 
shade, with many fawn- 
colored dots and much 
blue bloom. 

Flesh orange, not fine- 
grained, and somewhat 
dry, but a fine, rich, sug- 
ary fruit when ripe ; a 
free-stone. Ripens about 
the last of August. 



=15. 



F!g. 280. 




JEFFERSON. 

Tree vigorous and a good 
bearer. 

Young branches almost 
smooth. 

Fruit large round oval ; 
golden - yellow, purplish-red 
on the sunny side, and cov- 
ered with thin whitish 
bloom. 

Flesh orange, very juicy, 
and richly flavored ; almost a 
free-stone. Ripens about the 
last of August, and hangs 
long on the tree. 

This plum was raised and 
named by the late Judge 
Buel, of Alban3\ 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



415 



*16. IMPERIAL GAGE {Fig. 281). 

Tree of remarkably luxuriant growth, an abundant bearer, 
and peculiarly adapted to light soils ; lacking flavor on heavy 
ones. 

Young branches very slightly downy. 

Fruit medium or above ; yellowish -green, striped or marbled 
beneath the skin with darker green. 

Flesh greenish, melting, rich, and juicy ; almost a free-stone. 
Ripens about the first of September. 



Fig. 281. 



Fig. 282. 




17. PURPLE GAGE {Fig. 282). 

Tree of moderate growth, and a good bearer. 

Young branches smooth and short-jointed. 

Fruit medium roundish ; violet, with yellow dots and a fine 
blue bloom. 

Flesh yellowish, rich, and sugary, but somewhat dry ; will 
hang long on the tree ; a free- stone. Ripens through Septem- 
ber. 



18. manning's long blue {Fig. 283). 
Tree of moderate growth, and an abundant bearer. 
Young branches smooth. 



416 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Fig. 283. 




Fruit large long oval ; dark 
purple, with a heavy blue bloom. 

Flesh yellowish, moderately 
juicy, sweet, and pleasant ; al- 
most a free - stone. Ripens 
through September, or later. 

Fig. 284 




19. DOMINIE DULL {Fig. 284). 

Tree of free but not large growth, and a very good bearer. 

Young branches smooth. 

Fruit medium long oval ; very dark purple, with a light cov- 
ering of blue bloom. 

Flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, and good, becoming dryer and 
richer if left hanging on the tree ; clings to the stone. Ripens 
in all September. 

*20. CATHARINE {Fig. 285). 
Tree of moderate growth, bearing abundantly. 
Young branches smooth and somewhat slender. 
Fruit medium obovate ; pale yellow, with occasionally a red- 
dish cheek, and covered with a tliin white l)loom. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



417 



Flesh yellow, juicy, per- 
fumed, and rich ; clings to 
the stone. Ripens toward 
the last of September. 



Fig. 286. 



Fig. 285, 




*21. coe's golden drop {Fig. 286). 

Tree of strong growth and a fair bearer, requiring warm 
soils and locations if planted north of latitude 40°. 

Young branches smooth. 

Fruit very large oval, tapering toward the stem ; light green- 
ish-yellow, with dark red spots on the sunny side. 

Flesh yellow, rather firm, and not fine-grained, but sweet, 
rich, and sometimes melting ; clings to the stone. Ripens 
about the last of September, and may be left on the tree, or 
gathered and kept, for some time. 

22. coe's late red {Fig. 287). 

Tree of free growth and productive. 

Young branches downy. 

Fruit medium, round, or very nearly so ; purplish light red, 
with a blue bloom ; a very desirable late fruit for garden or 
orchard culture. 

S2 



418 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Flesh yellowish, firm, juicy, and 
vinous; almost a free-stone. Rip- 
ens through October. 

Fig. 28T. 



Fig. 288. 




23. BLUE IMPERATRICE {Fig. 288). 

Tree of free growth and quite productive. 

Young branches smooth and rather slender. 

Fruit medium, obovate ; dark purple, with a heavy blue 
bloom. 

Flesh greenish-yellow, not juicy, but rich and sweet ; clings 
to the stone. Ripens in October, and hangs until November. 



Fig. 289. 




24. FROST GAGE. 

Tree thrifty and an abundant bearer. 

Young branches smooth and rather 
slender. 

Fruit small round-oval ; deep purple, 
with a fine rich bloom. 

Flesh greenish -yellow, melting, rich, 
and sweet ; clings to the stone. Ripens 
in October, and continues for some time. 

This plum, like the damson, is common- 
ly increased by its offshoots. It is not 
only excellent in quality, but very beau- 
tiful upon the tree. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



419 



Fig. 290. 



25, ICKWORTH. 

Tree of moderate vigor and 
a fair bearer. 

Young branches smooth and 
somewhat slender. 

Fruit medium to large, obo- 
vate ; purple, with irregular 
tracings of light fawn color. 

Flesh greenish-yellow, rich, 
juicy, and very good, becoming 
sugary with keeping ; clings to 
the stone. Ripens in October, 
and may be kept in a dry room 
for several weeks, or sometimes 
months, if ^\Tapped singly and 
carefully in paper. 

This valuable late plum is a 
somewhat recent English vai*i- 
ety, usually called Ickworth 
Imperatrice ; but as we have 
already a " Blue Imperatrice," the latter name is dropped. 

THE POMEGRANATE. 

The wild Pomegranate of Europe and China is of a sharp 
acid flavor, but the cultivated kinds are subacid or sweet. 

The fruit is of ordinary peach size or larger, and contains 
numerous red seeds, and a juicy pulp of pleasant flavor, cooling 
and excellent for use in fevers, etc. It has a tough skin, but 
its yellow color and red cheek, with its large calyx eye or 
crown, render it very beautiful. It grows well with less care 
than the orange-tree in the latitude of 40° north, fruiting 
freely in Maryland and Virginia, but not ripening its crop 
with certainty farther north than the Carolinas, 

The tree is pretty, having small lance-formed leaves, with 
reddish veins. It grows about twenty feet high at the most, 
and bears a profusion of showy scarlet flowers. There is also 
a double-flowering scarlet variety, which is still more orna- 




420 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN". 



mental, extensively cultivated as a conservatory or green-house 
plant in the colder latitudes. 



Fig. 291. 




o. Branch in blossom. 



6. Branch in fruit. 



It is well suited with any moderately good soil, though pre- 
ferring a rather light loam. The plants may be raised from 
seeds sown as soon as ripened, or by cuttings or layers. 

Wherever it will stand out during winter it may form beau- 
tiful ornamental hedges, and in some localities might answer 
for fences. 

THE QUINCE. 

The Quince is a rough-flavored, astringent fruit, entirely 
unfit for eating in the raw state, but is a favorite for stewing 
and making preserves, on account of its fine fragrance and 
richness. Quince-trees intended for bearing should be pruned 
to a single but generally low stem, and all ofishoot growth 
prevented. 

They may be planted at a distance of eight to twelve feet 
each way, or between fruit-trees of larger growth, and are suit- 
ed with a rather moist soil, though with care they will grow 
in any. 

There are quite a number of various kinds of quinces, hav- 
ing the same general character and flavor, but differing chiefly 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



421 



in the size and fleshiness of their fruit. The common infe- 
rior-fruiting kinds are often used as stocks for dwai"fing pear- 
trees, but a free-growing variety, known as the Angers Quince, 
and some others of similar habit, are greatly superior for this 
purpose. The Japan Quince is an ornamental shrub bearing 
a small green fi'agrant, but otherwise useless fruit. 

Most of them may be raised from seed, and all are readily 
increased from offshoots, or by hill or common layering, or by 
cuttings planted in the fall or early spring and mulched. 

The Apple Quince, Fig. 292 a, is a fine golden-colored fruit 
of rich appearance and superior quality. 

Fig. 292, a. 




Apple Quince. 



The Pear Quince, Fig. 292 h, though by no means equal to 
the former, is extensively raised for market, and is a fniit of 
fair quality, less tender in cooking than the former, and by no 
means equal to it, but both are valuable and profitable. 



422 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Fig. 292, b. 




Pear Quince. 



THE RASPBERRY. 



There are numerous varieties of this esteemed fruit, of di- 
vers colors, almost all being prolific, and most of the red or 
dark-fruited kinds of good flavor. Perhaps the Red Antwerp 
and the FastolfF, which ripens rather later, are the finest, but 
at the north they require covering in winter to secure a crop. 

The Franconia is a hardy variety, which bears abundant 
crops of fruit, scarcely, if at all inferior, when fully ripe, to the 
Red Antwerp, either in size or quality, having a firmness of 
texture which renders it valuable for preserving. 

Knevet's Giant is a new English variety of good reputation 
both for quality and hardiness. Some new and promising va- 
rieties have also been recently raised from seed. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 293. 



423 



fftr 




h. rastolflf. 






Franconia. 



a. Red Antwerp. 

The most common of the dark-fruited raspberries is the 
American Black, the red-cane variety which for so many 
years has been extensively cultivated for the New York mar- 
ket. It is perfectly hardy, and bears abundant crops of rather 
small but well-flavored, though not first-class fruit. 

The double-bearing, of which there are several varieties, 
yield a partial second crop of fruit of middling character late 
in the fall, just when peaches abound, and are therefore of no 
special importance. 

The Yellow Antwerp bears a fine, large, thimble-formed 
berry, and shows well upon the table when mixed with the 
red, but it also is tender, and has, in common with its inferior 
varieties, a certain degree of faint sweetness in the flavor that 
requires mingling with something more acid to make it agree- 
able. The Orange, which resembles it, is later in ripening, 
and hardier. 

Raspberries should stand in rows six or eight feet wide, the 
bushes being from two to four feet apart in the rows, accord- 
ing to the habit of the kind planted. The soil can scarcely be 
made too rich and warm for them. 

They require only winter pruning, which consists simply 
in removing the old dead canes, and shortening the ends of the 
young shoots, to bring the rampant growers within bounds and 
strengthen the spring growth, upon which all the fruit is 
borne. They should be cut back to about fom^ feet high if we 
desire fine fruit, and, if at all weak, might be pnmed still 
shorter to advantage. 



424 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

The more moderate-growing kinds of raspberries are often 
cultivated by tying up the canes of each plant to a single 
stake, or to a bar fastened along the row of stakes for this pur- 
pose ; but the stronger growers, of which the red-cane named 
above is the most rampant, are usually inclosed by running a 
single bar along each side of the row, with posts at about six 
feet apart, Avith cross braces at proper intervals, making a 
frame about two feet wide. Within such a frame the bearing 
shoots and the young strong canes of the current season be- 
come mingled and thickened, and the difficulty of gathering 
the fruit and the labor of winter pruning are much increased. 

Let this frame be made three feet wide instead of two ; nail 
two braces, an inch and a half or two inches apart, upon each 
pair of posts, putting two such upon each side of every third 
pair. Let the narrow space between the braces range at a lev- 
el from end to end of the frame ; into this space, and close upon 
one side of the frame, introduce a strip of plank two or three 
inches wide, put a pin through it at each end near to the brace 
to prevent it slipping out, and fit it so at the third pair of 
posts that its end will not interfere with the next length. 
Put in similar strips tlii'oughout, and you have a sliding bar 
along your frame ready for use. Suppose your canes trimmed 
for the spring of 1858, with the slide-bar resting to the west- 
ward of them ; you move it across to the eastward, pressing the 
canes before it till they are near or rest upon the outer bar ; 
allowing them such "play" as you may think they require, 
fasten your sliding bar for the season by pinning it to or notch- 
ing it into the braces, or in any way you find convenient , and if 
the canes do not spread evenly along their allotted space, form 
a sort of rack for them by tacking short pieces of lath here and 
there. When the young canes shoot up from the root, they 
will naturally grow upright and apart from the bearing shoots ; 
but if they should incline toward them, a small strip of board, 
without sharp edges, or a light bean-pole laid between them 
and resting its weight upon both, will sway them a little in 
the opposite direction, and leave your fruit entirely within 
reach and at command, and prepare the whole mass of old cane 
for being easily cut away at the next pruning. It remains 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 425 

only to press the bar westward in the spring of 1859, and so 
alternate it from year to year. 

The chief, if not the only objection to the use of such a 
frame lies in the reduced amount of shade afforded to the fruit, 
raspberries and blackberries seldom attaining their finest size 
when entirely exposal, being also liable to scorch and become 
imj^erfect in the full sun. In certain latitudes and soils this 
may become a serious difficulty, and wherever it is so the stake 
or single-bar mode should be adopted. 

THE STRAWBERRY. 

A great number of kinds of strawberries are in cultivation, 
some of them very large ; others that range generally of better 
flavor, but more moderate size. 

There are but two distinct systems of cultivation — the one 
may be called the hilling, and the other the bedding system. 
In both systems, so far as garden cultm'e is concerned, the 
deepest and warmest soil it affords should be selected, and the 
plants set out in rows twelve to fifteen inches wide, and a foot 
apart in the row, with a narrow walk between eveiy third and 
fom'th, or fourth and fifth row. 

In the hilling system the beds thus formed are kept perfect- 
ly clear of weeds, and all runners from the plants ai*e cut off 
as soon as they start. 

Under this course of treatment, the plants, instead of over- 
running the bed, form large branched or multiplied crowns, 
from which, in its season, the fruit is produced — finest and most 
abundantly in the first full-bearing year, afterward gradually 
declining, until in fom* or five years, at most, the beds must 
be replaced by others. An annual top-dressing of compost is 
applied after the crop is gathered, being lightly dug in with 
the spade-fork. 

After the spring hoeing of such beds they are carefully 
mulched by laying straw, or litter, or tan, or moss between the 
rows, so that the fruit, when bent down by its own weight or 
from dashing rains, will not become dirty and unfit for use. 
For this pui'pose, a coat of cut straw, such as is commonly fed 
to horses, etc., will be found excellent and easily applied. 



426 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

In the bedding system less labor and care are required, pro- 
vided they be given at the proper time. 

The beds should be annually renewed in the following man- 
ner : 

At the ends of the rows, when first planted, set a small lo- 
cust, or chestnut, or cedar stick, thrust into the ground to the 
depth of a foot or more. If your bed is planted in early spring, 
or even at any time before the middle of June, and w^ell tend- 
ed, being hoed often and carefully till they begin to run, and 
afterward hand- weeded if requisite, and all runners that would 
spread themselves into the paths cut ofi" or turned in, the whole 
surface of the bed will be covered before winter with strong 
young plants ; the crowns of the parent plant, instead of 
branching immediately around itself, as in the hilling system, 
will have spread and planted themselves at a distance in inde- 
pendent positions. In the following spring the bed will yield 
its crop in season, and the mat of leaf-growth upon it will 
keep the fruit clean. 

As soon as the crop is gathered, begin on one side, and find 
by your mark-sticks where the old rows stand, and stretch a 
line exactly midway between the first two of them, from end 
to end of the bed ; then, Avith a spade or grass-edger, cut along 
each side of the line so stretched, at two inches distance from 
it, proceeding thus until you have gone over the bed, dividing 
it into four strips of about eleven inches width, in which the 
old-plant rows stand, and three strips of four inches, occupied 
exclusively by young plants. If, on looking at it, you think' 
you would prefer to have five rows in yom* new bed rather than 
three, though the latter is generally preferable, make another 
cut along just outside of each old outside row, and you will 
have a narrow rim of young plants standing on each side of 
your bed. 

If you wish plants for enlarged plantings, you may pare off 
with your spade, an inch or two deep, all the wide intervals, 
and can choose out the young plants for resetting as you may 
desire, or the plants on the wide spaces, instead of being pared 
off, may be dug under if they are not needed for use, tnus re- 
taining them in the bed as specific manure for their successors, 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 427 

adding compost also in the process. If pared off, fill up the 
spaces with leaf-mould or compost, and either dig them with 
the spade-fork or hook them over deeply with a potato-hook ; 
then let the naiTOw strips of young plants be well hoed and 
perfectly cleaned from weeds and grass, and you will leave the 
whole bed as clean and loose as when it was just planted, but 
with a better stock of plants, and these undisturbed and ready 
to grow right on. Place your mark-sticks at the centre of 
the ends of your new rows, and keep the bed clean as before, 
until the runners cover it again preparatory to your next 
crop ; and so alternate from year to year, manuring with com- 
post, etc., as may be needful, at the annual renewal of the 
bed. 

This mode, though it may at first appear complicated, is 
really a simple and efficient process for securing a clean and, 
with proper precautions, a full-cropping strawberry-bed at a 
small expense of labor. 

Dress your bed repeatedly through the summer and fall with 
leached ashes and liquid manure. Give it a very light winter 
covering of straw or evergreen. Let it have at least one lib- 
eral application of liquid manm'e at the opening of spring ; 
and, if drought occur while the plants are in blossom or fruit, 
water them often and heavily to such a degree as will prevent 
their becoming sensible of want of moisture. 

Upon beds so treated the fruit will prove to be almost uni- 
formly fine ; plants seldom yield fruit equaling, and never sur- 
passing, the product of their second year, and by this system 
every bearing plant in your bed comes within this class. 

In large operations for marketing, the strawberry crop is 
sometimes brought into the system of farm rotation, upon this 
alternating or renewal principle. New acres are planted every 
spring, at from two to three feet distance each way, the land 
being well manm'ed, and furrowed as for corn, and the plants 
set at the crossing ; they are kept clean with the cultivator, or 
with the plow and corn-harrow, and a little hoeing until they 
begin to run. Before winter they cover the ground ; and, as 
soon as the crop is marketed in the following spring, the whole 
patch is plowed under, and a fall crop of vegetables planted on 



428 AMKUH'AN IIOMK CJAUDEN. 

tho liuul. .If the plantini!;s aro made in the fall, Avhirh is lui- 
(lesirable, tho patch runs over to the spring of the third year 
for its main cvoj). 

DiiVuMilty, and not nnfroqnentl)'^ disappointments, arc met 
•\vi(li ill strawberry culture from tho irroguhu* botiuiical pecul- 
iarities of the blossoms. Unless skilled in these, so as to dis- 
criuiinato clearly, it -will be well that you slioidd watch your 
bed from year to year, and destroy all plants that bloom, but 
fail to fruit ; for, if this be neglected, they will, after a while, 
conquer the less vigorous iVuit-bearers, and spoil your bed. 

Naturally the blossoms of most varieties of the strawberry. 
like those of the ajij)le and cherry, or, more strictly, like those 
of tho raspberry, Jiro bi-sexual and perfect, combining stamens 
and pistils in due proportion in the same flower; but in cer- 
tain kinils, the ilowers, or most of them, are imperfect, some 
varieties lacking pistils, and others being destitute of stamens, 
so that fruit is not i)roduced. The Avhole family of IIau'L'HOIS, 
or high-stem strawberries, known by their jwramidal lieaAis 
and crimpeil foliage, is peculiarly subject to these defects; 
and, although their fruit is of a remarkably line, high flavor, 
they have failed to nuike their way into general cultivation. 

l\>abody's new se(>dling llnutlH)is is said to be an exception 
to the rule, having perfect flowers, bearing Avell, and retaining 
the peculiar flavor of its class ; i/ so, it will be regarded us an 
acquisition, at least to private gardens. 

^luch has been said and writtc^i by way i>f obviating the 
dilVu'ulties resulting to the ])rivate cultivator from these im- 
perfections. The best general remedy is to throw away all 
such kinds, or leave them to professional fruit-growers or s]ie- 
cial amateiu's, and obtain ]>lants of perfect -flowered varieties 
that may be relitnl on alone for a lair or abundant crop. Theiv 
is pnUmbly no kind with defective flowers so superior to others 
in the character of its fruit as to make it worthy of continued 
cultivation by those whose general duties are likely to inter- 
feiv with any small attentions to such a matter, or wl\ose time 
;uid labor aw deemed of value. 

The following figures and explanations will ])erhaps aid in 
obtaining a clear idea t>f the peculiarities referred to. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



429 



8'l'RAWHERRY BLOSSOMS. 
I'ig. 294. 




A. Pprfcd, or l)i-Hoxnal Wosfioin, Imviiif? Htamciis and pintiln in duo jiroportioii. 
li. InipcrlVcl. ulaniiiiatii Mossom, liuvint^ Htniiii'iiM, \n\\, lackiiiK l)iHlilrt. 
C. Imitoiiect piHtillatc bliwsoni, having piatil.-i, but laoking «tanionH. 

A. Plants bearinf]^ perfect or bi-scxual flowers, as Fig, 294 A, 
arc ahvays fruitful, but more or less so according as they pro- 
duce their stamens and pistils in sufiicient or insufficient ])ro- 
|)ortion to one another. These varieties are very connnonly, 
but quite improperly, called staminates, or by another designa- 
tion, -which, as applied to fei'tile plants, is simply absurd. 

B. Plants bearing only staminatc flowers, as Fig. 294 B, 
are uniformly and entirely fruitless. 

G. Plants bearing pistillate flowers, as Fig. 294 C, are fruit- 
less, unless in combination Avith plants bearing perfect flow- 
ers, as A^ certain varieties of which have stamens in excess ; 
or with plants bearing only staniinato flowers, as B, in con- 
nection with which they may be regarded as anonuilous dioe- 
cious varieties (see page 7()). In such combinations they are 
very fruitful, and some of the finest known varieties ai-e of this 
class, or belong to a subdivision of bi-scxual flowers in which 
a deficient ])r()])ortion of stamens is developed, and, conse<]|uent- 
ly, when planted alone, they yield but little fruit, and ai'e 
therefore also sometimes erroneously called pistillates. 

COMBINATION OP CLASSES. 
If it is desired to cultivate such kinds on account of special 
qualities in the fruit, the end may be readily secured by plant- 
ing yom* beds of only three rows width, leaving a space of three 
feet between the beds, and along the centre of this space phmt- 
ing a single row of any good perfect-flowered variety, which 



430 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



must be either cultivated upon the hilling system or limited 
to its own space by running the grass-edger, or a substitute for 
it, along each side of it from time to time, cutting off and re- 
moving all runners, and maintaining a perfect separation be- 
tween it and the beds ; or the beds may be made five rows 
wide, the centre row of each being of a perfect-flowered variety, 
and kept apart from the others with the grass-edger, as above 
directed. The blossoms of these will supply the deficiency of 
fertilizers in your beds, and secure full crops. The following 
kinds are of reputation in their several classes. 

Either of the varieties comprised in the first of the follow- 
ing classes may be planted as fertilizers in combination with 
those of the second, but perhaps No. 1 or No. 3 will prove as 
desirable and successful as any for the end sought. 



CLASS I. 

Varieties having perfect or bi-sexual flowers, bearing their 
full natural crop of fruit when planted alone. Sometimes 
wrongly called staminates. 

NO. 1. LARGE EARLY SCARLET. 

Fig. 205. 




Pretty large, round ovate ; tender and rich. Color a fine 
bright scarlet. A good bearer, and ripens early. 

This is an improved sub-variety of the old or native early 
scai'let, and very superior to it in all respects. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



431 



NO. 2. longworth's prolific. 

Fig. 296. 




Rather large ; dark crimson ; roundish ; flesh firm, subacid, 
rich, and high flavored. It is a regular and free bearer, car- 
rying its fruit well upon the stem. Ripens at medium season. 



NO. 3. WILSON'S ALBANY. 
Fig. 297. 




432 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Large to very large ; roundish-conical, form varying with 
the size, as in the figures. Color dark ruby. A strong grow- 
er, very productive, and of excellent quality. Ripens at me- 
dium season or rather later. 

Wilson's Albany is one of the most recent and valuable of 
strawberries, and is fast making its way to merited popularity. 




Large, roundish, slightly necked ; of good quality, and fine 
appearance. Color dark crimson. Very productive, and car- 
rying its fruit finely on the stem. Ripens late. 

To this class may be added Iowa, Walker's Seedling, a fruit 
of much merit, Ross's Phoenix, and Jenny Lind, all of which, 
in suitable circumstances, will be found productive and of fine 
quality. 

The Iowa has been extensively used in combination as a fer- 
tilizer at the West. 



CLASS II. 



Varieties having imperfect or uni-sexual flowers, being de- 
ficient in stamens or destitute of them ; comparatively unfruit- 
ful alone, but bearing abundantly in combination with varieties 
having either perfect or staminate flowers. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



433 



NO. 5. burr's new pine {Fig. 299). 

Large, roundish-conical ; tender, sweet, rich, and aromatic. 
Color a clear pale red. Ripening early, and in combination 
bearing fine perfect berries. 



Fig. 299. 



Fig. 300. 





NO. 6. CRIMSON CONE {Fig. 300). 
Pretty large, long conical, with a neck, so that the fruit 
may be gathered without stems. Sprightly, rich, but slightly 
acid. Color bright crimson. Ripens rather early. 



NO. 7. hovey's seedling. 

Very large, round -oval, or nearly 
conical ; firm, sprightly, and in fa- 
vorable circumstances rich. Color 
fine dark red. Ripens at medium 
season or rather later. 

This fine strawberry, raised in Bos- 
ton by the gentleman whose name it 
bears, has attained, perhaps, a greater 
celebrity than any other fruit of its 
class. In proper combination it yields 
very largely. 

T 



Fig. 301. 




434 



AMEKICAN HOME GAEDEN. 



Fig. 302. 



NO. 8. m^avoy's superior. 

Very large ; irregular and variable ; 
mostly roundish sub-conical. Tender, 
juicy, rich, and high flavored. Color 
dark crimson. Ripens at medium sea- 
son or rather later. 

This rather uncouth fruit originated 
in Cincinnatti about ten years ago, and 
is the largest of the numerous new va- 
rieties which the West has furnished. 
It has a somewhat coarse and open core, 
though otherwise excellent in quality, 
but is too tender to bear transportation 
to a distant market. 



To this class may be added Monroe Scarlet, Moyamensing 
Pine, Burr's Hudson (Rival), and Jenny's Seedling. 

All the foregoing vaiieties of the second class are partially 
fruitful alone, but none of them crop fully except in combina- 
tion Avith fertilizers. 




CHAPTER XXI. 

Flowers, Shrubs, &c., of various Classes. — Propagation of Flowers, &c., by 
Cuttings, Layers, Budding, and Grafting. — Soils and Composts for Flow- 
ers. — Select Lists of Flowers of various Classes. — Treatment of Plants in 
House and Green-house, Heating Apparatus, &c. — Select Lists of hardy 
Shrubs, Roses, Climbing Shrubs, Evergreens, Shade-trees, &c., with Di- 
rections for their Propagation and Culture. 

FLOWERS, SHRUBS, ORNAMENTAL TREES, &c. 
The variety of flowers, shrubs, &.C., is so very large and so 
constantly increasing that only the most limited selection from 
each class can be given, and of these the prettiest and most 
easily cultivated kinds, not likely to disappoint any reasona- 
ble expectation, have been preferred for the subjoined lists, 
none being excluded because they are old, nor inserted merely 
because they are new. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 435 

A large proportion of each class, except the bulbous roots, 
ai-e natives of our woods, and swamps, and prairies, and mount- 
ains. I would gladly have introduced more of them, but the 
limits of my work forbade. A good collection of American 
trees, plants, and flowers is a desideratum worthy even of na- 
tional attention and effort. Perhaps the city of Ncav York 
will do herself the honor of at least a beginning in this direc- 
tion in the arrangement of her new Central Park. 

In the selections presented the amateur will probably mark 
omissions which even limited space might not have induced 
him to make, and certainly he will be able to make large ad- 
ditions to them of admired plants. 

Previous to the outlay of labor and care on a plant, it is al- 
most always desirable to be personally acquainted with it. 
Many are found in collections and catalogues that are of a neg- 
ative character, and unworthy of a place in the private flower- 
garden, however they may interest the botanist or the amateur 
collector. There are also some of which the name has been 
their only " ticket of admission," as " Love in a 3Tist ;" and 
others which, though showy, have some capital defect, as the 
offensive odor of the Cleome, or Spider^flower. 

In general we cultivate flowers for their beauty, but tastes 
differ, and we do not always agree in the use of terms, or de- 
fine them clearly. Beauty may be either simple or composite. 
There is beauty of form irrespective of other elements, as a 
curve — the rainbow without its colors; there is beauty of 
color, as the Tyrian purple, or the azure of a cloudless sky ; 
there is beauty of texture, as in the soft satin ; but a flower, 
to be beautiful, must combine beauty of form, color, and tex- 
ture, and, lacking either of them, it ceases to be beautiful as a 
flower. It may be of beautiful form, as a plaster rose ; or of 
beautiful color, as a painted cheek ; or of exquisite texture, as 
the eider down ; or, farther, it may also be curious in its parts, 
as the Fly-trap ; or admirable in its arrangement, as the 
Pitcher-plant, but it is not a beautiful flower. If, however, a 
flower possess these elements of beauty, its beauty may be 
heightened by the variation and multiplication of one or more 
of them. The numerous and varied curves in the Cupped 



436 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Rose and the Meadow Lily add greatly to the beauty of the 
first, and give to the last its peculiar elegance ; the varied 
shades or mingled stripes of color in the Tulip and the Carna- 
tion give them their power to excite enthusiastic admiration, 
and make men " tulip-fanciers," &c. ; and the varied texture 
of the Iris and many other flowers adds sensibly to their 
beauty. 

But in choosing flowers for cultivation, we take some that 
are not beautiful, because they are showy, and others because 
they are fragrant, and still others because they come so early 
in the spring as to afibrd us the first substantial assurance of 
its return, or so late in the fall as to postpone somewhat the 
thought of winter. 



In treating this ornamental department of gardening, the fol- 
lowing divisions may be named and defined : 

Bulbs, among which some tuberous roots, as the Anemone, 
&c., are commonly placed, are a class generally yielding flow- 
ers of fine color and texture, and some of them excellent in form. 

Annuals are such as either naturally blossom and bear seed 
and die within the compass of a single year, or are so classed 
in northern climates because the winter kills them. All these, 
however, may be made, in a sense, biennials, by sowing them 
late and wintering the young plants for next year's blossoming ; 
while some of them, as the Mignonnette, become perennial if 
propagated from cuttings and not permitted to ripen seed. 

Biennials are such as either naturally form the young 
strong plant one year, and blossom, bear seed, and die the 
next, as most garden vegetables, red clover, Canterbury Bells, 
&c. ; or they are those of which the young plants will bear the 
cold of winter, but the old plants will not, as certain kinds of 
Pinks, Snap-dragon, Sweet Scabious, &c. These also may gen- 
erally be made triennial or perennial by preventing the produc- 
tion of seed, and renewing them by cuttings or layers. 

Perennials, commonly known as herbaceous plants, are such 
as have not woody stems, and in climates too cold for their 
constitution die down in the winter, but spring up every year 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 437 

from the same root. Thus the Chriseis Crocea, formerly Ess- 
choltzia Californica, is ranked in New York as an annual, but 
in Southern California it is herbaceous and perennial. 

Green-house Plants, sometimes also called pot plants, are 
such as in northern climates require more or less of artificial 
heat and house protection to carry them through the winter, 
and, in general, a return for this trouble and care is sought in 
the flowers they are made to yield at that ungenial season. 

Shrubs are the smaller class of woody plants, some of them 
valued only for their foliage, as the Box ; others for their flow- 
ers, as the Rose ; and still others, as the Cydonia Japonica, both 
for flowers and foliage. 

Climbers, to whatever class they may belong, climb either by 
winding, as Morning-glory and the Bitter-sweet ; or by cling- 
ing with their tendrils, as the Pea and the Grape-vine ; or by 
striking their roots all along as they run, even into a brick 
wall, as the Virginia Creeper and the Trumpet-flower. Those 
climbers which are of woody growth are really shrubs, i. e., 
small trees, of peculiar habit. We have therefore called them 
Climbing Shrubs. 

Evergreens are such shrubs or trees as do not lose their 
leaves in winter, whose greenness cheers that season and links 
it with its kindlier sisters, though sometimes, in dense masses, 
deepening its gloom. The lowly Epigaia, or trailing Arbutus, 
and the tall-growing hemlock, are of these. 

Shade Trees are either fruit or forest trees when used for 
the purpose of shade, but generally the latter only are intended. 

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs are such as may be chosen 
from either of the foregoing classes to beautify and form part 
of the surroundings of a home. 

PROPAGATION OF FLOWERS, SHRUBS, &c. 

by cuttings. 

green-house and herbaceous cuttings. 

Cuttings of woody plants of small growth, as green-house 

and ordinary herbaceous plants, are made in the same manner 

as those of large woody growth, except that they are usually in 

leaf when the cuttings are taken ofi". See the following figm'es. 



438 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 
Fig. 303. 





a. Common cutting of small woody growth. 

6. A Hlip cutting of the same, with the butt untrimmed. 

c. A slip cutting trimmed for planting. 

d. A common herbaceous cutting. 

e. A cutting of Carnation or I'icotce. 

/. A cutting of the smaller, or garden Pink, made with the knife. 
g. A pink " piping," made by drawing out, without using the knife. 
h. The pipe or tube from which tlie piping had been drawn. 

The Carnation and Pieotoe are commonly layered, but cut- 
tings may be made, as Fig, e, and are to be preferred. The 
smaller, or garden Pink, is usually raised from cuttings, as Fig. 
/, but these are also often made without the knife by simply 
pulling out a sufficient length of the heart gi'owth, while the 
lower or stem end of the shoot is held firmly between the thumb 
and finger. If dexterously done, the cutting will separate pre- 
cisely at the joint, and is at once ready for planting. Fig. g. 
This is called " a piping," because, when drawn out, it leaves a 
pipe or tube formed by the bases of the two next lower leaves 
which enfolded it. Fig. h. Branch cuttings of all kinds may 
usually be planted at a depth equal to one half of their length, 
but cuttings of Carnations, Pinks, and a few other varieties of 
peculiar growth, are planted so as to bring the bases of their 
untrimmed leaves just into the surface of the earth. A very 
little experience and observation will enal^le the cultivator to 
j udge at once of the proper depths from the size of the cutting 
and the character of the pai'ticular variety. Cuttings that are 
planted in a sloping position are thought to root more readily 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 439 

than upright ones. When planted in pots, they should be 
placed around the inside of the pot, and in contact with it, in 
which position they root more certainly. 

All cuttings take root more promptly and freely if so arranged 
that the soil in which they are planted becomes warm, which 
is effected by placing the bed over a flue, or by prepai'ing a hot 
bed for the purpose. If, therefore, a green-house is built and 
heated as shown page 475, a bed for cuttings may be made 
immaliately above the boiler, so ari'anged as that the steam 
will pass under its whole length. 

Very fleshy cuttings, as the strong-growing scarlet Gerani- 
imis, the Cacti, and some others, are benefited by having their 
cut parts di'ied a little before planting. They are akin to air- 
plants, and may be left sometimes for weeks upon the sui-face, 
and still live. These shoidd never be covered closely, but the 
harder and more woody cuttings, particularly those hanng fine 
foliage, as the Fabiana, the Myrtle, &c., are greatly benefited by 
covering them with glass, to prevent rapid evaporation, lifting 
the cover occasionally so as to afford air, and, if mouldiness be 
indicated upon the cuttings, tilt or raise it at the edge, that 
they may have a constant supply. All plant cuttings should 
be potted singly as soon as the young roots are well formed ; 
if this is neglected, they must be carefully trimmed at potting, 
as directed for larger trees. Shade and warmth, and careful 
watering for a few days after removal, until they fairly re- 
start, will be found essential to all cuttings or plants. 

BY LAYERING. 

Almost all ornamental shrubs, &c., may be increased by lay- 
ers, as noted imder each. In general, the layering is performed 
as directed page 199, but there are some to which peculiar 
modes are applicable, as Chinese layering, American span lay- 
ering, &.C. 

These latter processes are of comparatively recent use with 
us, and have but a limited range of adaptation. All very free- 
rooting varieties, whether runners or otherwise, may be in- 
creased by the Chinese mode ; but American span layering is 
adapted only to luxuriant runners, as grape-vines. Wistaria, &c. 



440 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



CHINESE LAYERING. 



Fig. 304. 




cord or wire between the joints. 



In the process known by this 
name, a young shoot is pegged 
down flat at its length, and 
covered about two inches deep, 
each bud being expected to 
form a plant, which they often 
fail to do, though perhaps this 
defect might be remedied by 
pretty tight constriction with 




is a some- 
new process. 



AMERICAN SPAN LAYERING. 

This 
what 

first practiced, so far 
as he is aware, by 
the author, though 
he has learned re- 
cently that it has 
also been used by others, and is always found completely suc- 
cessful. It is performed by pegging into the ground a single 
joint every foot or eighteen inches, curving the shoot upward 
between each two layers. Each layered joint may be tongued 
or not, according to the kind of plant under treatment. This 
mode is applicable only to running plants, but ten or a dozen 
layers may be readily made by it from a single pretty long 
shoot of such as are suitable. 



HERBACEOUS HILL LAYERING. 

Hill layering, so far as applicable to fruit-trees and woody 
plants in general, has been described page 200 ; but this mode 
is peculiarly adapted to the propagation of those plants, as 
Pinks, &c., which do not make long shoots, or which require 
tongueing, but are too brittle to bear bending. In these cases 
a dished hill of good earth is made entirely around the plant, 
and the tongue of the layer is made on the under side of the 




AMERICAN HOME (JARDEX. 441 

^'s- 30G. sprout, which, being strained off a 

very little from the plant, is bent 
and pinned down just enough to 
open the slit and set the tongue 
bud fairly in the soil, and allow 
of covering it about one inch and 
a half deep. See Figure. The 
hill should be carefully mulched, 
^== and watered regularly at evening 
until the layers arc rooted. 

BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 

Various fancy forest trees and shrubs are budded or grafted, 
grafting being generally prefen-ed for these, perhaps without 
good reason. For the mode of grafting, see page 229. 

The lighter-growing kinds of Cactus are often grafted upon, 
or rather planted in those of stronger growth, by a simple yet 
curious and successful process. Stocks of suitable strength 
are raised from cuttings, which root readily if planted in sand 
after being cut a day or two. The graft is dressed to a thin 
but quite short wedge ; the stock is cut off, and the graft 
wedge set into the heart of it, in a slit made with the point of 
a knife, or a bone or wooden wedge, the sides of the stock re- 
maining uncleft, and, instead of binding, a small wooden skew- 
er, or a long, slim thorn from a large cactus is then passed 
through the stock and graft, pinning the latter to its place. In 
a short time the graft (really the cutting) throws its roots 
downward through the substance of the stock, and grows finely. 

The operation of budding ornamental trees, as well as or- 
anges, &c., among green-house plants, is performed in the com- 
mon mode, described page 220. Roses also are budded pre- 
cisely as fruit-trees, except that some extra care is required in 
the operation, on account of their comparative smallness, their 
thorniness, and the softer and more stringy nature of their bark. 

All the autumnal and ever-blooming classes of roses, if 
budded early in the summer, and cut down at the time of bud- 
ding to within four or six inches of the bud, will gi'ow and 
blossom in the course of the same season. 

T 2 



442 AMERICAN HUME GARDEN. 

SOILS FOR FLOWER COMPOSTS, &c. 

Good i.Oam, among the cultivators of flowers, means such as is 
of a rather dull yellow, not reddish, and, when moderately dry, 
cutting with a certain cheesy softness, yet friable when thrown 
up with the spade, breaking into rather coarse granules, a lump, 
when broken, showing the same structure, yet not clayey or li- 
able to bake hard after rain. The finest, sweetest pasture 
grows on such soil. If, however, your loam is more sandy, re- 
duce the sand or peat in the compost you prepare with it, 

Leaf-:\I0'JLD, as its name imports, is the black earth formed 
in woods, and along fences, and in corners by the annual decay 
of fiillen leaves. In general they should be left to enrich the 
forest trees from which they fell, but when decayed the mould 
forms a most valuable element of flower composts. 

Peat is vegetable matter accumulated upon an uncultivated 
level surface by the long-continued growth of successive sea- 
sons' upon the decaying product of their predecessors, in which 
state it has a mixture of sand ; or it is the mass of vegetable 
matter foijnd in bog meadows and swamps, so compacted and 
drained as to be readily cut into blocks and dried for fuel. In 
its wet state it is known as swamp muck. 

Road-wash is the deposit of sand and gravel made by the 
running road-gutters Avherever the Avatcr may find a place to 
rest long enough to permit its settling, and is valuable upon 
all strong soil, and especially so for flower composts. 

Sand may either be road-wash, where it is sufiiciently free 
from earth, or it may be common white or silver sand, or ordi- 
nary clean, sharp mortar sand, not too coarse. 

In preparing composts for flowers, the loam and sand or road- 
wash may be fresh from the sm-face, but all manures used 
should be from one to two years old, and thoroughly reduced by 
turning, chopping, and mixing. 

The manure of spent hot beds is generally used for this pur- 
pose, but in composts for certain kinds of flowers, sheep ma- 
nure, and blood, or other animal matter, are supposed to be val- 
uable. 

Peat and swamp muck for these should also l:)e sweetened 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 443 

by exposure and frequent turning over for a year Or two before 
using them. 

A pretty deep and rather sandy loam, moderately rich, will 
suit almost every cultivated variety of hardy flower, shrub, and 
tree. A few exceptional cases may be found. 

FLOWER COMPOSTS. 

Composts are prepared for particular plants in order to raise 
them in perfection where the natural soil is unfavorable, or ta 
produce some special effect upon the plant or flower ; and inas- 
much as this is often attempted upon a mere notion, composts 
become as numerous as fancy cultivators. 

The following, it is believed, will meet all ordinary demands. 

NO. 1. PLANT COMPOST. 

2 parts of good surface loam. 

2 " leaf-mould or peat. 

2 " spent hot bed or stable manure, perfectly rotted. 

1 " road-wash or sharp sand. 

Let these materials be thoroughly chopped and mixed to- 
gether, and if the manure was properly rotted beforehand, the 
compost may be used in a week, being again chopped and mix- 
ed in the preparatory process. Almost every variety of plant 
will thrive in it. 

NO. 2. LAYER AND CUTTING COMPOST. 

2 parts of good loam. 

2 " leaf- mould or peat. 

2 " rotted manure. 

1 " road-wash or sharp sand, screened. 

1 " charcoal dust. 
To be chopped and mixed as directed for No. 1. 
Almost any cutting or layer Avill root and grow in it. A 
few species of hard-wood green-house plants require for their 
successful propagation by cuttings that these be set under a 
bell-glass in almost entirely clear sand. Rather coarse white 
or silver sand, fine road- wash, or ordinary sharp bank-sand may 
be used. The latter particularly, if much colored with loam, 
should be washed before use, and at discretion one twentieth 



444 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

part of leaf-mould may be added to it, and the same quantity 
of fine charcoal -dust. As soon as cuttings so planted take root, 
they should be potted, the sand being shaken clean from their 
roots in the process. 

NO. 3. BULBOUS ROOT COMPOST. 

4 parts of leaf-mould or peat. 
4 " "well -rotted cow manure. 
4 " road- wash or clean sand. 
2 " good surface loam. 
1 " poudrette. 
Let it be thoroughly mixed a week or more before using it. 
See Tulips, page 449, 

NO. 4. FLOWER COMPOST. 

4 parts of good loam. 
4 " leaf- mould or decayed wood. 
4 " perfectly rotted cow or sheep manure, or slaugh- 
ter-house manure. 
2 " road-wash or sharp sand. 

1 "' poudrette. 

^ " old wall-plaster, or J part fresh-slaked lime. 
Add salt in the proportion of a pint to ten bushels of the 
compost. It should be prepared a month or two beforehand by 
repeated and thorough turning and mixing. It is calculated 
for any variety of fancy flower which it is desired to raise of 
extra quality. 

NO. 5. ROSE COMPOST. 

4 parts of good loam. 

4 " well-rotted manure from spent hot bed or the 

barn-yard, 
4 " peat. 

2 " poudrette. 

1 " road-wash or sand. 

1 " guano carefully sifted. 

All roses will be found to grow and blossom finely in this 
compost, prepared by thorough chopping and mixing a few 
weeks or months before it is used. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 445 

FLOWERS. 

In describing the various classes of flowers, &e., those only 
have been called hardy of which, at least, young strong plants 
will bear an ordinary New York winter with a very slight pro- 
tection, or without any. All others should be sown or plant- 
ed in spring, and where necessary, as noted, must be started in 
the house or a hot bed. 

TRANSPLANTING FLOWERS. 

All bulbous roots that it is found necessary or desirable to 
transplant should be taken up as soon after flowering as the 
plant leaves begin to die, and either replanted or dried and 
kept for fall planting ; and all those which it is not intended 
to transplant shoiild be perfectly cleai-ed of grass and other 
weeds in the fall, receiving such dressing as they may require, 
and thus be prepared for their early spring movement. 

Annual and biennial flowers, while small, may be transplant- 
ed by removing them with the point of the garden trowel, or with 
a piece of shingle, taking a little eaith with them ; but if it is 
found desirable to transplant them when lai'ge, a spade, or two 
trowels, or the flower transplanter must be used. See p. 52. 

Perennials from seed or cuttings may be removed in the same 
manner at any season ; but their large roots should be divided, 
if at all, soon after they cease flowering, or in the spring just 
after the growth of the season has commenced, the plants being 
watered and shaded, if necessary, until they re-start. Green- 
house plants may be removed at any time, but the main annual 
pruning and repotting should be done in August or September. 

Those who cultivate only out-door flowers are sometimes 
perplexed by the difficulty of so grouping them as to have a 
succession of various blossoms sufficiently numerous to make a 
show in the garden or furnish a bouquet for the parlor. This 
may be secured by setting out, in spring, Verbenas in their 
numerous varieties, wintered for this piu^se, with the double 
Feverfew, or Lafayette Daisy, the Sah-ia Splendens, Gaillardia 
Picta, Petunias, Sweet Alyssum and ^lignonnette, either win- 
tered or i-aised early in hot bed, with some other kinds that 



446 



AMERICAN HOME GAHDEX. 



bloom freely and constantly. These, added to a small number 
of well-managed autumnal and ever-blooming roses, and the 
ordinary annuals, particularly Portulacca and Schizanthus, and 
some biennials, as Sweet Scabious and Larkspm-s, will make the 
garden perpetually gay. 

As a farther aid to this end, I have inserted the following 
list of trees and shrubs, perennials and biennials, bulbous and 
tuberous roots, &c., which, Avith ordinary treatment in the open 
ground, and in similar soils and latitudes, nearly correspond in 
their times of blossoming, and follow and interlink with one 
another almost in the order in which they are given. 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Mezereum. 

Scarlet Quince and i 
Forsythia. ' 

Magnolias. 

Flowering Almond j 
and Currant. i 

Spiraea Prunifolia 
and Deutzia Graci- 
lis. 

Lilacs. 

Rhododendron and ) 
May Apple. ' 

Wistaria. 

Weigela. 

Spiriea Reevesii. 

Sweet-scented Shrub ^ 
and Snow-ball. | 

Double Scarlet Haw 
thorn and Labur 
num. 

Syringa and Deutzia ) 
Scabra. > 

Laurel. 

f 

Roses in varieties run- 
ning through to.^ 



winter. 



LIST. 

PERENNIALS AND BIEN- 
NIALS. 

Blood-root. 
Columbines. 
Dielytra and Dwarf Iris. 
Phlox Stolonifera, &c. 

Primroses, Violets, ) 
and Pausies. ) 

American Cowslip. 

Lily of the Valley. 

Tree Peony. 
Large Iris. 
Phlox Maculata. 



Honesty. ) 

Yellow Day Lily. ) 

Baptisia. 

China Pink. 

Canterbury Bells, 
Chinese and other 
Larkspurs, Sweet I 
William, Double i 
Feverfew, and Gail- j 
lardia Picta. J 



BULBS, TUBERS, &C. 

Snowdrop. 
Crocus. 

Persian Iris, &c. 
Daffodil. 

Crown Imperial. 

Hyacinth. 

Star of Bethlehem. 

Jonquile Narcissus, &c. 

Tulips. 

Anemone. 

( Ranunculus and Spi- 
( ra2a Filipendula. 

Crimson Peony. 

White Sweet Peony, &c. 

r White Lily, and ear- 
I ly - sown Annual 
Flowers, in varie- 
ties to run to win- 
ter. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



44Y 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Climbing Honeysnck- J 

les. 1 

I 

Milk Vine. \ 

White Jasmine. 

Clematis and Passion J 
Flower. ^ 

Trumpet Creeper. 

Rose of Sharon. 



PERENNIALS AND BIEN- 
NIALS. 

Verbenas, Petunias, J 

to continue through >- 

the season. ) 

Pinks, Picotees, &c. 
Veronica, Fraxinella, ) 

and Snapdragon. > 
Blue and Scarlet 

Sage, Mourning 

Bride, &c. 
Phlox Speciosa, &c., 

and White Day 

Lily. 

Hollyhocks. 

Virginian Dragon-head. 

Fringed Gentian. 
Artemisias in varieties 
till winter. 



BDLBS, TUBERS, &C. 

Commelina. 

Jacobean Lily. 

Mexican Tiger Flower. 

Gladiolus. 
Four o'Clocks. 

Dahlias in varieties to 
run through to win- 
ter. 
( Double Perennial 
i Sun-flower. • 
Tuberose. 



HARDY BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 



SPRING FLOWERING. 



TEN KINDS. 



1. Crocus, White, Blue, Yellow, &c. Among the very earli- 
est flowers, and always beautiful. 

2. Crown Imperial, Frittelaria Imperialis. A fine, early, 
showy flower, of lily-like character, but having an unpleasant 
odor. 

3. Dafibdil. The well-known large double yellow Narcis- 
sus ; among the flrst blossoms of the season. 

4. Hyacinth. See below. 

5. Iris, Persian, &c. The varieties are numerous and beau- 
tiful ; chiefly of various shades of blue, though some are pure 
white, and others of a fine golden yellow. The bulbous vari- 
eties should be taken up soon after flowering, and replanted in 
the fall, as they are apt to rot if left in the ground. 

6. Lily, White, Tiger, &c., &c. Lilium Candidum, &c. 
Many and beautiful varieties, well known, both wild and cul- 
tivated. 



448 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

7. Narcissus, White or the Poets', &c. A simple white 
flower with a small edged cup in its centre. The Jonquile 
Narcissus is yellow, and some of the varieties peculiar. Al- 
most all are pretty and fragrant, whether single or double. 

8. Snow-drop, Galanthus Nivalis. A simple white flower, 
of drooping ear-drop form, striped inside with green. It is 
the earliest blossom of spring, and deserves extended cultiva- 
tion. 

9. Star of Bethlehem, Ornithogalum Umbellatum. Anoth- 
er early simple white flower streaked with green, blooming in 
pretty large panicles. Common, but pretty ; sometimes wild. 

10. Tulip. See below. 

All hardy bulbs should be planted in the fall, in light rich 
soil, rather sandy than otherwise, at from two to six inches 
apart, according to their size, and from two to four inches deep ; 
and if planted in beds, let the sm-face be rounded slightly to 
throw off" excess of water. With the exception of the sweet 
Jonquil, which requires a little care, those named above are as 
hardy and as easily raised as onions, and their more general 
cultivation is desirable. 

Hyacinths may be planted singly or in groups or beds. 
If a bed is made it should be planted in October or early in 
November, setting the bulbs from six to eight inches apart, 
and full four inches deep. With care in respect to the taste- 
ful arrangement of the difierent^colors and the various shades 
of each, and attention to the natural varieties of height, which 
latter will be affected by the strength or weakness of the par- 
ticular root, a fine eflect may be produced independent of the 
merits of the individual flowers. That no mistake may occur, 
the arrangement should first be made on paper, and the dia- 
gram preserved for correction, if necessary, when they bloom. 

Hyacinths will generally bear the winter well if planted at 
proper depth, yet some of the finer kinds, particularly the 
white ones, are of delicate constitution, and will more certain- 
ly keep and bloom strongly if the bed is annually mulched a 
little for winter, taking care to remove the mulching at the 
earliest opening of spring. 

They may also be planted in pots for house blooming. In 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. i-i'J 

this case the bulb should be left about one third uncovered, 
and the pots be set in a cool place, so that the growth may not 
be forced hastily. After they start they may be kept warm, 
needing only ordinary care, except that while blooming they 
should have plenty of water constantly in the saucers. 

The Hyacinth, and also sometimes the Narcissus, is bloom- 
ed by house culture in water, in deep glasses known as bulb- 
glasses. These are filled, and the bottom of the bulb placed 
so as that it just and scarcely touches the water into which its 
roots descend, and the flower-stem is soon thrown up. The 
only precautions necessary are to start the growth slowly and 
at a low temperature, gradually raising it to ordinary house 
warmth (65°), and keeping it pretty even ; change the water 
every three or four days, taking care that what you put in is 
as warm as that which you throw out. It is a highly exhaust- 
ive process, which can not be successfully repeated upon the 
same root for several years ; but if such roots, after their blos- 
soms decay, are thrown into water and allowed to remain un- 
til the leaves die, the roots, after Ijeing dried, may be planted 
in the open ground in the fall ; but to reproduce a fine large 
bulb, the blossom stems for one or two years must be broken 
ofi" as they start, just as what are called rare-ripe onions are 
raised of marketable size by breaking out the seed -pipes. 

Tulips may be planted and arranged precisely as above di- 
rected for Hyacinths in the open ground ; but, instead of or- 
dinary bulbous-root compost, the soil of the tulip-bed should 
be almost exclusively good sm'face loam, the sod being chop- 
ped and rotted, with one third road-wash or sand, and, if a 
little manure is added, let it be perfectly-rotted cow-manure, 
and dig it deeply in. Whenever there is special danger from 
mice or moles, hardy bulbs may be planted in pretty large pots, 
sunk where they are intended to bloom, which may either be 
taken up after the blooming or remain over. 

As soon as the flower falls, snap off the seed-vessel to aid the 
growth of the bulb. 

Tulips have a habit of change, technically called inmning, 
in which the striping and brightness of the flower disappear 
in one dull muddy color, while the roots become multiplied and 



450 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

Strong. To counteract this tendency, and to preserve and im- 
prove the beauty of the flowers, " tulip-fanciers" pursue a sys- 
tem of artificial treatment by which the root is weakened, and, 
in fact, diseased ; the bulbs, being taken up every year as soon 
as the tops die, are dried and planted again in the fall. This 
annual drying of the roots is usually found sufiicient to pre- 
serve their character, except in wet seasons or too rich soils ; 
but, in order to improve them or to originate new varieties, 
seedlings are raised, or certain kinds of superior form are se- 
lected, and the drying, accompanied by change of soil and 
other means, is carried to an extreme, the change caused by 
the process being technically called " breaking." 

With seedlings, which, for this purpose, are always raised 
from finely-formed " selfs" — that is, flowers of one color with- 
out striping, the process is ordinarily continued for seven or 
eight years before they break into their proper colors, or attain 
a sufficient degree of fixedness in their habit. 

Sometimes tulips break naturally ; the cultivator finds a 
flower which, from its exquisite beauty, he does not at once 
recognize, and marks it for special preservation ; but when, in 
due season, he digs for the root, it is foimd to be entirely de- 
cayed : the process of improvement had been carried to its cli- 
max. It was the hue of beauty on the cheek of death, exqui- 
site loveliness linked to extreme fragility. 

Persons often become enthusiastic in their admiration of 
these flowers, and very expert in their proper arrangement in 
the bed, which, under such hands, becomes one of the finest of 
floral exhibitions. With this view it is made seven rows wide, 
the taller-growing varieties occupying the centre or fourth row, 
and being known as " fourth-row flowers ;" those somewhat 
shorter, or the weaker roots of the former varieties, being set 
on either side, and known as third-row flowers ; and so on to the 
first row or outside flowers, the disposal of colors for the pro- 
duction of effect being also carefully attended to. 

Double tulips seldom deserve culture, being coarse, formless, 
and generally thick colored. The double yellow rose-scented, 
the golden-centred crimson, and the bright red-striped " Ma- 
nage de ma fille," may be reckoned as exceptions. 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 451 



TENDER BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

SPRING AND SUMMER FLOWERING. 

SIX KINDS. 

1. Anemone, Hortensis, &c. A rather peculiar bulb or 
tuber resembling ginger-root, requiring care in planting, so 
that they be set right side up. They yield flowers of great 
variety and brilliancy of color. 

2. Gladiolus or Sword Lily. A showy popular flower, a 
few varieties of which are fine, but many lack clearness of color. 

3. Lily, Jacobean, Amaryllis Formosissima. A fine, rich, 
deep scarlet flower. 

4. Ranunculus. A fine flower of varied forms, cupped, 
globular, &c., and of bright scarlet, crimson, and other colors. 

5. TiGRiDA Pavonia, or Mexican-tiger Flower. The va- 
riety known as Conchiflora is the finest. There are many 
flowers in succession, each lasting from early morning until 
afternoon. If cut before opening and kept in entire darkness, 
they may be preserved until evening, and will then open in 
the light. 

6. Tuberose, Tuherosa. A rather tall, free-growing flower, 
creamy white and fragrant, on which account it is esteemed. 
It may be started early in pots and turned out in season, or 
planted as directed below. * 

In planting tender bulbs, let them be covered carefully about 
two inches above the crown, pressing the earth upon them. 
The Ranunculus and the Anemone require planting in the 
fall in rich, strong, loamy soil, but must be protected through, 
the winter of the North by a covering of leaves, or mulch in a 
cold bed ; or, with care, the roots may be preserved through 
winter and planted in very early spring in a bed from which 
the frost has been excluded, receiving any necessary defense 
against recurring severity of cold in spring. 

The others may be planted in the open ground when spring 
frosts are passed, and, being kept clean by occasional hoeing 
and weeding, will give their beauty or their fragance in its 
season. They should all be dressed with liquid manure when 
they are in bud. Before winter, let the roots be taken up and 



452 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



dried, and preserve tliem for replanting in boxes or paper bags 
in a dry, cool place, out of the reach of frost. 

TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

DAHLIAS. 

TWENTY-ONE VARIETIES. 

Single-flowering Dahlias have entirely disappeared from 
cultivation, and double ones, which florists wrote of as rarities 
thirty years ago, are found to-day in almost innumerable vari- 
eties. The following list, though choice, is given only as an 
assortment of colors. 

13, 



Ansel's Unique, yellow, edged 
with scarlet. 

14. Mrs. Hansard, yellow, white tip. 

15. Striata Perfecta, lilac, striped 

and flecked with crimson. 

16. Lilac King, finest of lilacs. 

17. Elizabeth, amethyst, white tipped. 

18. Rachel Rawlings, peach-blossom. 

19. Blanchefleur, pure white. 

20. Prince Albert, white, edged with 

lavender. 

21. Empress Eugenie, white, edged 

with amaranth. 



1. Gem of the Grove, neai'ly black. 

2. Beeswing, dark red. 

3. Bathonia, dark maroon. 

4. Sir Charles Napier, dark scarlet. 
6. Grenadier, bright crimson. 

6. Brilliant, fine scarlet. 

7. Sir R. Whittington, ruby crim- 

son. 

8. Latour d'Auvergne, orange scar- 

let. 

9. Gasperine, maroon, white tipped. 

10. Kossuth, scarlet, white tipped. 

11. Cleopatra, clear yellow. 

12. Oriflame, splendid orange. 

Dahlias are of most easy culture, reconciling themselves to 
almost any soil, and poor soil is sometimes prescribed for them. 
It is possible that very tall, strong -growing kinds may be 
dwarfed and brought more readily into flower by this treat- 
ment ; but it will be found safer to select moderate-growing 
kinds, and give them pretty high culture. With this, a dozen 
plants of difierent kinds will furnish a good variety and plenty 
of flowers. 

To treat them properly, make holes of at least fifteen inches 
diameter and fifteen to eighteen inches deep ; put into each 
about a peck of half-rotted manure, just such as you would use 
for hilling potatoes or corn ; mix the earth through it, and chop 
it well up with the spade ; fill up the hole a little above the 
natural level, and with a crowbar set a strong stake as deep- 
as the bottom of your hole, and a little back of the centre. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 453 

This being done, and not before, open a small hole in the cen- 
tre with your hand or a trowel, and set the plant in, an inch 
or two deeper than it has previously stood, or if it be a root not 
yet grown, set the crown the same depth below the surface, 
press the earth firmly about it, level the surface nicely, and it 
is in order. 

At every six inches of its subsequent growth tie the main 
stem carefully, but not tightly, to the stake with strong bass- 
mat strips or cotton wick, colored if you prefer it. Hoe often 
around it while young, and nip the side shoots entirely, but 
not the stem-leaves, from the two lower joints of the stem. 
As the other side shoots grow, put an outer band or two around 
them, not binding them out of their natural position unless 
you wish to, but staying them against winds. Nineteen twen- 
tieths of your flowers will be due to your stakes and bands. 

In the course of the season, when buds are forming freely, 
give them one or two dressings of liquid manure, and, if a 
drought occurs at this period, mulch them thickly. When the 
frost kills the foliage, hill a little earth around the plants if 
they are not mulched, and let them stand until the near ap- 
proach of winter ; then, in the morning of a fine dry day, cut 
ofi" the tops, take them up, and, having shaken the earth from 
them, let them stand to dry for a few hours ; then, carefully 
labeling each, put them into a barrel, and in a few days cover 
them over with a little straw and earth, or set them compact- 
ly upon the floor of a dry, cool cellar, and cover them lightly 
with earth or sand. 

Just at the opening of spring, and not too early, take them 
out and set them close together, but singly, in a light hot bed, 
or immediately upon a few inches of warm manure, or in a 
wai'm spot without manure ; cover them just over the crowns 
with good earth ; keep them well watered, and shield them 
with a blanket or other defense from cold nights and storms. 

When they have sprouted three or four inches, take them out 
on a warm day, and cut them apart, splitting first right through 
the centre of the old stem. Leave no more than one shoot to a 
plant, making cuttings of any surplus shoots. K you do not 
wish to divide the entire plant at once, uncover the crown 



454 ALIERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

lightly, and cut off from the root the longer shoots, each with a 
tuber or more, or with only a small portion of the crown of the 
old plant. The tubers are of no consequence to the young 
plant after it strikes its own roots, and generally the less of the 
old tuber you plant the better, if you either pot the young- 
shoots until they root, or plant them at once and shade them 
till they start. If you wish to increase them largely, each 
shoot may be thus cut out, as the eyes of potatoes are cut out 
for planting in times of scarcity, or you may still farther mul- 
tiply them by making cuttings of them all. For this purpose, 
cut off each young shoot just above the crown, leaving the low- 
er circle of incipient buds on the old root. Set each cutting 
thus obtained singly in a half-pint pot, and place them in a 
moderate and shaded hot bed, with plenty of air, until they are 
well started, which may require a week or two, when they are 
ready for setting out. When your old roots have thrown new 
shoots from the collar buds you left, cut your second and more 
numerous crop in the same manner, leaving just the collar cir- 
cle of each, and treat them as the first. This may be contin- 
ued and repeated far into the season, only taking care not to 
force the growth of shoots too fast, so as to destroy the stamina 
of the cutting. 

At the close of the cutting season the old roots may be 
taken out and divided as first directed. 

Dahlias are also readily raised from seed, which, though suf- 
ficiently abundant in the poorer sorts, is scantily yielded by 
the very finest varieties of this flower ; but upon plants of the 
very best character certain comparatively imperfect blossoms 
will appear in the course of the season, and the earlier of these 
will generally furnish a few perfect and ripened seeds. These 
may be sown early in spring, in a box or hot bed, and should be 
transplanted while small into half-pint pots, and treated in all 
respects as directed for cuttings. With early sowing and cai'e 
they will often blossom the first season, and always in the sec- 
ond, yet so large a proportion of seedling flowers prove of infe- 
rior character that private cultivators seldom find it worth 
while to raise them. 

Dahlias are sometimes grafted upon tubers of common kinds. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 455 

For this purpose, cut the top of a single tuber horizontally ; cut 
a small and rather thin slice of an inch or two in length from 
one side ; take a young shoot and cut it into the fonn of a 
shouldered crown graft, making the shoulder-cut close to a bud 
— see page 233 ; let this shoulder-bud rest upon the head of 
your stock tuber, and j&t the rinds together as in tongue graft- 
ing, but without tongueing ; bind it, and pot it, and set it in a 
hot bed as a cutting. This may be done for curiosity, but as a 
matter of business it is worthless. " Le jeu ne vaux pas la 
chandelle.^^ Other tuberous-rooted floAvers are included in An-, 
nuals, Biennials, &c. 

ANNUALS. 

All annual flowers may be sown in the spring months, or 
even in June, and brought into bloom by care in their cultiva- 
tion, few kinds requiring more than two months to produce 
flowers. For rules as to depth of sowing, &c., see page 84. 

There are some kinds which shed their seeds and produce 
young plants in the fall, which continue through the winter, 
thus becoming in a sense biennial ; others shed their seeds, 
which commonly sprout abundantly in spring, but any plants 
that may grow in the fall are killed by the winter. In the 
following lists the former are marked " self-sowing in the fall," 
the latter " self-sowing in the spring." Of either class abun- 
dance of plants may generally be obtained after spring opens 
from any spot where they grew the previous year. Of the an- 
nuals named below, none will be found without merit, though 
some of them may, in certain sections, be so common as not to 
require cultivation. A few more might have been added, but 
if these are tastefully aiTanged and well cultivated, the flower- 
garden will be adequately supplied with this class of flowers. 
To economize space, detailed descriptions are omitted. 

ANNUAL FLOWERS. 

THIRTY-FOUR VARIETIES. 

1. Ageratum, Blue, Ageratum odoratum. Pi-etty and 
sweet, about eighteen inches high. 

2. Alyssum, White Sweet, ^??/5S2mi ?wanV«m«m. About 



456 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

six inches high, simple and fragrant. Self-sowing in the 
spring. 

3. Aster, China, Aste7' Sinensis. Fine varied colors, grow- 
ing from twelve to fifteen inches high. Sometimes self-sow- 
ing in the spring. 

4. Bartonia, Golden, Bartonia aurea. Spreading, but 
rising to the height of six inches. 

5. Bachelor's Button, Gomjphrena globosa. White or 
purplish-crimson ; globular or clover-like flowers, pretty for 
drying ; a foot high. 

6. Calendrina grandifiora, &c. A showy lilac flower, re- 
quiring to be sown very early in rich soil. 

7. Candytuft, White, Crimson, Iheris coronaria, speciosa. 
Simple border or edging flowers, six or eight inches high. 

8. Centranthus, Long-tubed, CentrantJius macrosipTion. 
A very pretty clear pink flower, about a foot high, a constant 
bloomer ; does not well bear transplanting. Self-sowing in the 
spring. 

9. Coreopsis, Golden, Calliopsis hicolor (heretofore Core- 
opsis tinctoria). Showy and fine, two to three feet high. 
Self-sowing in the fall. 

10. Cockscomb, Bufi", Crimson, Celosia cristata. From six 
inches to two feet high. Sow early in hot bed. 

11. Claukea, 'Li[ixc--piTak, ClarJcea pulchella. Curious and 
pretty, six to eight inches high. 

12. Eternal, Golden, Helichrysum hradeatum. Pretty 
for drying ; from two to three feet high. Sow early in hot bed. 

13. Euphorbia, Variegated, Quaker's Daughter, Euplioi-hia 
variegata. Showy and peculiar, two feet high. Sometimes 
self-sowing in the spring. 

14. Golden Cup, Chriseis crocea (formerly EsscJioltzia). 
Flower and foliage superior. 

If the plants become straggling, cut them clean to the ground 
in July, and they will grow again and afford their finest flowers 
in the fall. 

It often survives the winter, and is also self-sowing in the 
spring. About a foot high. Chriseis alba is similar except 
in color. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 457 

15. Four-o'clock, Common, Sweet-scented, Mirabilis ja- 
lapa, longifiora. The former well known, two feet high ; the 
latter spreading, and reaching sometimes a foot high : a long- 
tubed, pale pink fragrant flower. Tuberous-rooted, and may 
be wintered as dahlias. 

16. Hawkweed, Golden, Crepis harbata. A beautiful 
morning flower, but closing in the strong sunlight ; six or 
eight inches high ; trails. 

17. Hibiscus, African (a large flower of an hour). Hibiscus 
Africanv.s. A pretty morning flower, fading by noon, about a 
foot high. Self-sowing in the spring. 

18. Ice Plant, Mesembi'Tjanthemum crystallinum. Cu- 
rious and pretty. Sow early in hot bed. Trailing. 

19. Ladies' Slipper, or Balsam, Balsamina Jiortensis. 
From a foot to two feet high. The double or camellia-flowered 
varieties are showy and fine, but readily deteriorate if inferior 
flowers are allowed to open their blossoms near them. 

20. Malope, Crimson, Mdtope grandifiora. Showy, grow- 
ing from a foot to two feet high. 

21. Mignonnette, Beseda odorata. A simple fragrant 
flower, six inches to a foot high, and trailing, deserving the 
name which French taste has given it. 

22. Monkey Flower, Mimuhis. Peculiar showy tubu- 
lar flowers, from light yellow to deep orange, with spots and 
blotches of crimson ; blooms the first season, and is sometimes 
self-sowing ; easily propagated by slip cuttings ; requires shade 
and plenty of water in summer. 

23. Morning Glory, Dwarf blue, Gonvolvulics minor. A 
beautiful morning flower, a foot high, but trailing. 

24. Nemophila, Blue, or Love Grove, NemopMla insignis. 
Beautiful ; requires shade and moistm-e ; about six inches high. 

25. Pink, French, or Ragged Sailor, Cyanus minor. Of fine 
varied colors, eighteen inches high. Self-sowing in the fall. 

26. Poppy, Fringed, &c., Pajoaver^m&na^ww, &c. Many 
varieties, very showy, from a foot to two feet high, and of all 
colors. Self-sowing in the fall or spring. 

The Papaver Orientalis is a hardy perennial Poppy, very- 
large and coarse, but showy. 

U 



458 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

27. Poppy, Mexican, Argemone grandijiora. A rather 
handsome white flower, with a profusion of yellow stamens, 
blooming as an annual, but its roots may be wintered in a cel- 
lar and replanted. 

28. Petunia, "White, Purple, &c., Petunia alba, Phoenicia, 
&c. A showy constant flower from May to Avinter, about a foot 
high, and trailing. Self-sowing in the spring. 

There are double varieties, which, as yet, are inferior to the 
single ones. 

29. Phlox, Drummond's, Phlox Drummondii. A fine va- 
riable pink flower, about a foot high. 

30. PoRTULACC A, Purple, White, &c., Portulacca splendens, 
alba, &c. Extremely showy, opening in the sunlight, about six 
inches high, and trailing. Self-sowing freely in the spring. 

31. Rose of Heaven, Viscaria oculata. A simple, pret- 
ty, varied pink flower, with a dark eye. 

32. Scmz XNTEUS, Schizanthus venustus, kc Several va- 
rieties of delicate flowers, finely penciled and spotted, from 
eighteen inches to two feet high ; a free and constant bloomer. 

33. Sensitive Plant, Mimosa sensitiva. Pretty foliage, 
which shrinks on being touched. 

34. Tassel Flower, Scarlet, Caccalia coccinea. A bright 
scarlet flower, of a tassel or brush form ; pretty ; from a foot 
to eighteen inches high. 

CLIMBING annuals. 

SIX VARIETIES. 

1. Cobea, Climbing, Cobea scandens. Coarse but curi- 
ous ; dull purple, goblet-formed flowers. 

2. Cypress Vine, Ipomcea quamodit. A native at the 
South ; both flower and foliage beautiful. Pour boiling water 
Upon the seed, stirring it ; pour it off in a few minutes, and 
sow immediately half an inch deep, 

3. Morning Glory, Purple, &c., Convolvulus major. 
Morning Glory, Large dark purple, Ipomcea atropurpu- 

Tea. 

Morning Glory, Scarlet, Ipomcea coccinea. Self-sowing 
in spring. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 459 

4. Maurandya, Purple, Maurandya Bardayana. A 
beautiful perennial vine, tender, but growing well and bloom- 
ing abundantly as an annual ; its flowers are pendent tubes of 
a fine deep purple. There are also white, and mixed muddy 
varieties of little value. 

5. Peas, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratus. Fine fragrant flow- 
ers of various colors, running about four feet high, 

6. Thunbergia, Bufl", &c., TJmnbergia alata, alba, &c. 
A pretty runner, bearing abundance of white, nankin, and or- 
ange-colored tubed flowers, with a dark puce-colored throat, 
looking like the pupil of an eye. 

BIENNIALS. 

TWELVE KINDS. 

Biennials should be sown in the latter half of May, and by 
the first of August, or whenever they are of sufiicient size, they 
may be transplanted into their permanent places. Shade them 
for a few days after setting out, and hoe and weed them often 
through the fall. In the spring clean them perfectly, digging 
lightly around them until they begin to throw up their blos- 
som-stems. Such of them as generally or often bloom the first 
season are noted in the list. 

1. Canterbury Bells, Blue, &c., Campanula medium. 
Showy bell or goblet formed flowers, generally admired ; from 
a foot to eighteen inches high. Self-sowing in the fall. 

2. CoMMELiNA, Blue, Commelina celestis. A plant of little 
show except in masses, with broad grass-like leaves, the ex- 
quisite tint of its rather scattered flowers constituting its only 
claim to cultivation. Though generally raised and treated as 
an annual or biennial, it is tuberous-rooted, and may be pre- 
served as dahlias or potatoes. From a foot to two feet high. 

3. Foxglove, Purple, White, Digitalis purpurea, alba. A 
coarse mullein-like plant, throwing up strong spikes of light 
purple or white tubular flowers, the inside of the purple variety 
being spotted. Self-sowing in the fall ; two to four feet high, 

4. Honesty, or Satin Flower, Lunaria biennis. An early 
flower, of a rich though not very clear purple color, but deriving 
its name and credit chiefly from the thin transparent mem- 



-UU) AMKinCAN HOMK CAKPEX. 

bniTio >vhioh iv\uaii\s nt'tor tlio !?oim1s aiv shod. It somoAvhat 
ivsoinblos n small lv\ttKHiiXn\ havinj; tho toxtinv of satin, and. 
liko honosty. shouiuii' tho saiuo on Knh sidos ; aKnit oii:;htoou 
iuohos hii;::h. 

;"). lloi.i.YiiooK. AlfJuo n\<t'a. A stivnir-i^nnviniX ouvi"so 
plant and tlowor. bnt ot'toti of fiiio oolors ; vow showy whou 
bUxnnini; anionj; shrublviy or by oan-iagi.^->Ya\"s ; thiw to six 
ftvt hiiih. It may Iv |HT|HHuatiHl by slip-outtinirs. 

r>. liAUKsri'K. Vcipliiniinn AJacis. o,;<,n\)/A/(?. Oi:o. Thoso aw 
showy bionnial llowors. whioh also bUxnn as annuals, and oftou 
Kwnno favorites ; none of thoui aiv iMiniwrablo to the Chinese 
LriU-kspur in its varieties, whieh has the same habit of five 
bhxnning and self-sowing. S^v paj:^^ 4lU>. 

7. Monkshood. Aivm'tum na^Klhift, A tall, stivng stem, 
bearing tlowers of blue and white, with a tiuixe of yellow in- 
side, of A eurious double-luxxi form, whenee its name. It ranks 
as a pei\Minial. but is moiv piv^xM'ly a biennial that often holds 
over. Self-sowing in the fall or spring ; two to thive tlvt 
high or motv. 

8.. MoiRNixa .1>KU>E. Swet.n Seabious. «St'«?/»n),V(j otropio'' 
jDMrtYi, Oco. Theix^ aiv various shades of this Hower. fivm a 
rieh deep manxni to a |xx>r lihio. Its fr;igrance is very pleas- 
ant, and is aeixnnpauieil by a very slight pungiMiey. It is an 
old and wwthy favorite, often bkxnning the tirst year. Self- 
sowing in the fall ; alxnit two f<.vt high. 

W Pink. China, Diivithuff Chhicih'i{< or annuns. A pivtty 
little phmt, yielding viu'iously eviloiwl single and double flow- 
ers the tii"st year fixnu the Scxxl. but bUxnning also the seoi^nd 
year, and may lx» }xn"jxHuat^\l by euttings. They aiv also 
fively self-sown : eight inehes to a tlx^t high. 

10. Paxsiks. Heartsease. }li'>la tn\\)lor. A very tvumuvii 
and very Ixwutiful family of plants, lx>tTi wild and eultivateil. 
some of eaeh Ixnng fragr-ant. l>Kxnning the tii-st year fmm 
sixxi. and easily pivserved fivm year to year by slip euttings. if 
desircii : a few inehes high ; aiv abund;mtly self-sown. 

11. SwKKT Wii.iiAM. DiiDithufi Ikirhitiis. Some virieties 
of this tlowor aiv ivmarkably tine, having oi^lors of alnu>st daz- 
zling brightness ; but less caiv than it deserves has Ixvu given. 



AMERICAN HOMK OARDEN. 461 

to it, and inferior kindw ufxiund. No garden Hhouid Tk; with- 
out the finer i<in(lH. A i<X)t lii^^i ; wilf'-wmin^ freely. 

\2. S\Ari)j{A';().v, AnUrrldnum. Hpc/doHv/m,, 6u:. The wnap- 
dragon iw a lip or mouth-fomied flower of variouH and fine c^^l- 
orH, having the amuHing faHhion of opening itH njoiith wlien 
pinehed " lnvck of the ear.H." Tfie Spe<;ioHuni is pure wfiiU;, 
witfi JipH of fine criniwin. From a ffx;t to eight<M;n inef)(;H 
high. They are fnxjly Hclf-Hown, and Hometiuies the phmtM 
blofjrn the first year. 

PERENNIALS. 

TWBKTV-HIX KIM>H. 

T})e see-<]H of pf;rennialH or hf;rhaew)U.s plantH may Ik; f¥)V,h 
at any time througli tiie Hpring, an<l the young plantH, wiien 
of Hufficient h'i'/a;, tranHphmted an directed for bienniaJw, or they 
may fx; left in the Heed-row.s until the next spring. 

P^or particular Hpwiies of plants in the following brief list, 
special directions are given as to the mfxles \>y which the-y 
may Ix; inercjised, but, in general, this is cjisily done by dividing 
the crowns of the nxjts either when they have ccaswl growing 
in the fall, or after they start in the spring. Usually, at this 
latter perifxl, each Hj;K;ar, if sef)arated with ever s^; small a por- 
tion of the rwt, or even siipficd off without rrxjt, will grow, if 
proper care \)0 given to shade and water it ; biit the inexfxjri- 
enced cultivator should Ix; content with a rnfxierate division of 
the Kx>ted pieces. 

1. Adam's Thread and Keedi.e, YuaM JU/mimloHd find 
Y. gloriom. Almost entirely hardy ahx;-like plants, pnxluc- 
ing ufxjn a branching stern a multitude of white lx;ll-shaped 
flowers. The first blooms most freely. At the North a little 
straw covering in winter is desirable. 

2. Artkmihia or Cil[iYSANTHEMr;M. Many varieties, with 
large or small flowers ; all showy, and w^me of them fine ; they 
are our latest fall flower. 

The Paper White, the White Quilled, the Golden Ix^tus, the 
Straw and the Rose colored, and the Crims^^n or PurjJe, may 
}x; named. 

For hou.se-bkx>ming, make cuttings early in August of alyjut 



462 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

eight inches of the point of each of the young shoots ; pot them 
as soon as they are well rooted in compost No. 1 or 4, pages 
443, 444, and keep them regularly watered, and a fine show of 
blossom may be expected Avith a moderate growth of stem. The 
stems from which the cuttings were taken will also branch 
and blossom in their season. 

3. Baptisia, Indigo-plant, Baptisia atro-cerulea. One of 
the most beautiful of native herbaceous plants, taking care of 
itself when once planted ; two feet high. 

4. Bloodroot, Sanguinaria Americana. A well-known 
wild plant, with clear white floAver and pretty foliage, bloom- 
ing in the earliest spring. It should have a cool, moist place 
in every garden, where such can be found. It is tuberous- 
rooted. 

5. Columbine, Wild, Garden, Aquilegia Canadensis, Vul- 
garis glandulosa, &c. All the varieties of Aquilegia are pret- 
ty, but none prettier than the wild, unless the Glandulosa, with 
its calyx-skirt of sky-blue covering a pure white " dimity" co- 
rolla, may be thought to excel it. The Aguilegia Siherica also 
is a rather peculiar variety, yielding its erect crimped double 
blue flowers profusely. From a foot to two feet high ; self-sow- 
ing in the fall. 

6. Cowslip, American, Dodecatheon media. An early- 
flowering, lettuce-leaved plant of much prettiness ; a native of 
Pennsylvania and the Southwest ; flower - stems about six 
inches high. 

7. Chinese Dielytra, Dielytra spectabilis. A new, beau- 
tiful, and perfectly hardy Chinese plant, with curious rose-col- 
ored flowers. It is of the very easiest cultivation, blooming in 
early spring, and may be continued in succession through the 
season by slipping off a few cuttings from the crown of the 
plant in April, May, and June, or even July ; the later ones 
may be potted for house-blooming. About two feet high ; it 
will become a universal favorite. 

8. Day Lily, White, Yellow, Blue, HemerocalUs japonica, 
fiava, cerulea. The first pure white, the second clear lem- 
on-yellow, and both of exquisite fragrance. The blue is not 
fragrant, but is admired. From a foot to two feet high. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 408 

9. Dragon's Head Virginian, Dracocephaluin Virginia- 
num. A wild plant of Pennsylvania and southward, bearing 
spikes of light lilac tubular flowers, finely and curiously spot- 
ted inside. Grows about two feet high, and needs care to 
prevent it spreading itself too freely. 

10. Eupatorium, Blue, Eupatorium celestinum. A wild 
plant of the South and Southwest, of a beautiful sky-blue ; 
nearly two feet high ; increased by its roots too freely. 

11. Feverfew, Double, or Lafayette Daisy, PyretJirum 
parthenium plena. A very pretty pure wdiite flower, bloom- 
ing freely in the green-house or garden. The old plants are 
apt to winter-kill, but young plants from cuttings are quite 
hardy. Common or slip cuttings root without care if planted 
in the shade. 

12. Fraxinella, Red, White, Didamnus fraxineUa. A 
peculiar and strongly fragrant plant, its smell producing in 
some persons nervous headache. Its blossoms give out an in- 
flammable gas. 

13. Gentian, Fringed, Oentiana crinita. An upright 
tubed flower, of an exceedingly fine pale blue, the edges being 
delicately fringed. Found every where in the shady spots of 
moist meadows in- early fall, growing from six inches to a foot 
high. It is one of the most beautiful of flowers. 

14. Iris, Fleur de Lis, Purple, White, &c.. Iris purpurea, 
celestina, alba, &c. Of these there are many showy and fra- 
grant varieties. The dwarf purple, /ris Jiumilis, makes a good 
edging for paths. Six inches to two feet high. 

15. Larkspur, Chinese, &c.. Delphinium Sinensis, &c. 
The flower of the Chinese Larkspur is sometimes white, but 
mostly of various fine shades of blue. 

The young plants bloom freely the first season, continuing 
till quite late, and from year to year it will be found one of 
the chief and most constant ornaments of a garden. 

The Double Chinese and Breck's Seedlings are superb vari- 
eties of this flower. 

16. Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis. A low- 
growing, small, white, bell-formed flower, of pleasant fragrance 
and beauty. 



464 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

17. Lychnis, Scarlet, Lychnis Chalcedonica. The fine 
bright scarlet of the flower, rivaling the Chalcedony, is its 
chief recommendation. From a foot to two feet high. 

18. Peony, large Crimson, Rose, White, Chinese Tree, &c., 
Pceonia officinalis, rosea, Whitlijii, 3Ioutan, &c. A well- 
known and large class of showy flowers, many of them fragrant. 
The last, Pa^onia Moutan, is a low shrub, yielding an abund- 
ance of large rose-colored flowers. It is increased by layers 
and offshoots, the former rooting rather slowly. 

19. Phlox, Crimson, Striped, White, Pink, &c.. Phlox spe- 
ciosa. Van Houtii, pyramidalis, stolonifera, &c. The last, 
Phlox stolonifera, is a trailing variety, one of om' earliest 
spring flowers ; the others are summer or fall flowers, of all 
hues, and Avell worth the little culture they require. The 
'VV'hole family telong to our continent, but they are sometimes 
known as French or Spanish lilacs. The " grass pink" used 
for edging is the Phlox suhulata. 

20. Pinks, Picotees, Carnations, Diantlms plumarius, 
caryophillus, &c. Varieties of the garden Pink, Diantlms 
plumarius, are more or less common every where ; but the 
larger Picotee, or " spotted" Pink, and the striped, or Carna- 
tion, are comparatively rare, from causes which are, however, 
easily obviated. In general, the odor of the pink is increased 
with the depth of its color, and the dark crimson Carnations 
are called cloves from their strong spicy fragrance. 

Some very double flowers are liable to burst on one side, and 
become irregular and unsightly. If such are cultivated, the 
divisions of the calyx, or flower-case, should be cut open equal- 
ly with a pen-knife about a quarter of an inch down, and a 
band of yarn or narrow bass strip tied around the middle of the 
bud to stay it. Fancy cultivators slip a circular card, with a 
cross-cut opening in the centre, over the main bud, to be drawn 
up to foi-m a tablet for the flower when it opens, trimming off 
also all side blossoms to strengthen this one. All the varieties 
may be increased by seeds, by cuttings, or by layers. 

The natural state of almost all flowers is single, or, at most, 
semi-double ; and most pinks raised from seed yield single 
flowers, which, though sweet, are not esteemed ; but a few fine, 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 465 

and sometimes superior flowers arc also obtained. Seeds should 
be sown in spring in good soil, and lightly covered, and the 
young plants transplanted when about two inches high. To 
make a pink cutting of the larger varieties, take oflf the young 
tender shoot before it starts to run up to blossom ; uncover the 
lower buds or joints by stripping off a few of the older leaves ; 
then, with a keen knife, cut the stem clean ofi" very close be- 
low the slightly swollen ring or joint of the stem ; trim off the 
next one or two pair of leaves just where they begin to diverge 
from the stem, and shorten the points of the rest an inch or 
two, if at all spreading, by a single cut. See Fig. 303 e, p. 
438. Set the cutting in good light earth, or compost No. 2, 
p. 443, from an inch to two inches deep, according to the 
strength of the growth and length of the shank ; press the 
earth firmly about it Avith your thuml) and finger ; water it 
moderately, and cover it either with sash, or hand-glass, or 
bell-glass, or tumbler, or simply set it in the shade, and, in 
general, you will succeed to your satisfaction. Cultivators 
sometimes slit the butt of the cutting between the buds, about 
half an inch up, with a view to induce an outgrowth of roots 
from each, one side only throwing out roots when it is left 
whole, which yet, upon other accounts, is to be generally pre- 
ferred, unless in skillful hands. The smaller varieties are cut 
in the same manner, but require less trimming. See Fig. 303 
/, page 438. 

Pink cuttings are also called " pipings," from the stem be- 
ing entirely sheathed by each pair of leaves, which are left in 
a pipe or tube form, when the cuttings are made by simply 
drawing out the heart-growth down to the desired joint, as is 
sometimes practiced with the garden pink. Fig. 303 g, h, p. 
438. Layers are made as directed page 441. 

Both cuttings and layers should be made in June, just at 
the time of blossoming, and must be watched and watered once 
or twice with Aveak liquid manure, and shaded or mulched, be- 
ing also examined occasionally, so that, as soon as they are well 
rooted, which will be in a month or six weeks, they may be 
transplanted carefully and shaded till they take hold. If in- 
tended for winter blossoming, they may be potted at once. 

U2 



466 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

In one or other of these modes they should be renewed every 
year. The plants raised by layers are not quite so hardy as 
those from cuttings or seeds ; but the young strong plants of 
almost all of them bear the winter about as well as grass, while 
the old ones of the larger kinds require to be housed, and even 
those of the smaller kinds suffer by exposm-e. 

Skillful florists of taste and fancy, who take pride in floral 
exhibitions, practice various arts in preparing flowers for show, 
known technically as " dressing" them. By means of a pair 
of long and delicate tweezers, or tongs, usually of wire, with 
flattened and smoothly-finished ends, the petals are arranged 
to the very best advantage ; any curled, or imperfect, or mis- 
placed petals are removed, and, if need be, substitutes from an- 
other flower inserted. It is the careful, and not always hon- 
est toilet of the flower, that it may catch the eye and secure the 
conquest. 

Pinks, Picotees, and Carnations are peculiarly liable to be 
made the subjects of these manipulations, although, perhaps, 
no class of show flowers is entirely exempted from them. 

21. Primrose, &c.. Primula. This class of flowers, includ- 
ing the Primrose, Polyanthus, Cowslip, &c., are, like the Daisy 
and Pansy, early and very pretty, though at the north the win- 
ter is too severe for some of them if xmprotected. They are 
increased by dividing the plant when it has done flowering for 
the season, shading the young ones for a while. 

22. Sage, Blue-flowering, Salvia angusti/olia. The flow- 
er is of an extremely fine shade. See also page 472. 

23. Spike Flower, Steeple-top, Veronica spicata, varie- 
gata, &c. Simple pretty flowers of numerous varieties, some 
growing three or four feet high, and others hiding their mi- 
nute and delicate beauty among the short grass by the way- 
side. 

24. Spiraea Filipendula. A small, pure white double 
flower, of peculiar delicacy of habit, yet hardy and easily raised 
if slightly shaded from the strong sun. It has small tuberous 
roots, and is increased by dividing from the crown. 

25. Sun-flower, Double Perennial, Heliantlms mvlti- 
Jlorus pleno. A tuberous-rooted sun-flower, bearing numer- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 467 

ous double yellow blossoms, of the size of dahlias, in early fall. 
Grows about four feet high. 

26. Violet, Poetic or Single Purple, Double Purple, Double 
Blue, or Neapolitan, Viola odorata in vars. All delightfully 
fragrant. The Double Blue requires winter protection, and the 
Double Purple is liable to suffer if entirely unsheltered. Either 
of the latter may be bloomed in pots in the house. 

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Scientific cultivators divide what are commonly called 
" Green-house Plants" into two classes : " Stove Plants," 
that is, intertropical plants, which require a higher tempera- 
ture or a longer continuance of heat than even our New York 
summers afford, in order to their healthful growth ; and Green- 
house Plants proper, or such as, being natives of the Avarmer 
portions of the temperate zones, require only protection through 
the winters of the colder latitudes. , 

There are many elaborate treatises on the construction of 
green-houses, with the various modes of heating, and the prop- 
er cultivation of plants in them, of which those who desire to 
obtain detailed and precise instructions in this department may 
avail themselves. The limits of this work will permit only a 
reference to the more familiar varieties, and the simplest ar- 
rangements for their winter protection or culture. 

SHRUBS FOR THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

EIGHTEEN KINDS. 

1. Abutilon Striatum, Strijjed Ahutilon. One of the 
most elegant and free-blooming of green-house shrubs. It is 
increased from cuttings almost as readily as the willow. There 
are larger flowering varieties not so pretty. 

2. Azalea Indica, Phcenicia, &c. The pretty wild vari- 
eties of Azalea are known as the May-apple, Honeysuckle, &c. ; 
but there are many fine varieties for green-house culture, of 
which the Phoenicia is perhaps the most generally admired. 
It is a purple. They are increased by layers, or by cuttings in 
sand, with heat under them, as immediately over the flue or 
pipes, &c., in the green-house, or in a light hot bed, and cov- 



408 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

ered with a bell-glass. Seedlings are also raised in sand and 
peat under a bell-glass with care. 

3. BiGNONiA Venusta, &c., Beautiful Bignonia. A fine, 
tender trumpet flower for a green-house climber. Increased 
by layers or cuttings. 

4. Camellia Japonica, Japan rose. The varieties of this 
splendid flower are without number. A pretty full assortment 
of them would require a large green-house. If only a few are 
desired, Alba plena, the old double white ; imhricata, crim- 
son and white ; Jeffersonii, bright crimson ; Washington, deep 
crimson ; and Americana, blush dashed with rose, all of fine 
form and free bloomers, may do Avell for a "beginning. Camel- 
lias are capable of bearing slight frosts with but little, if any 
injury. They are increased by layers, cuttings, and seeds 
sown as soon as they are ripe, or by tongue gi-afting, or inarch- 
ing upon stocks of single-flowering kinds provided for the pur- 
pose. 

5. Citrus, Orange, Lemon, &c. See page 362. 

6. Cytisus racemosus, &c. a pretty class of bushy, 
small, yellow, pea-blossomed shrubs. Increased by layers, off- 
shoots, and cuttings. 

7. Daphne odora. Sweet Daphne. A shrub of which the 
flowers are very fragrant. Increased by cuttings under glass. 

8. Deutzia Scabra, D. Gracilis. Hardy shrubs abomid- 
ing with pure white blossoms, either potted in the green-house 
or set in the open garden. Increased by offshoots, layers, or 
cuttings. 

9. Gardenia Florida, Florida jasmine. A shrub with 
white fragrant rose-like flowers. Increased by layers or cut- 
tings under glass. 

10. HoYA Carnosa, Wax-plant. Quite a pretty and pe- 
culiar climber, with panicles of Avax-like honeyed flowers, and 
thick, fleshy leaves, which root when planted as cuttings. It 
is also increased by ordinary cuttings, layers, or offshoots. 

11. Lagerstremia Indica, (7r«pc l/?/r^fe. A shrub which 
at the South is hardy, bearing abundance of clear pink blos- 
soms, delicately fringed or cut, Avith a crinkled, crape-like ap- 
pearance. It is improved by pretty close winter pruning. In- 
creased bv cuttings under glass. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 469 

12. Lavandula Spic ATA, Z/«vew<:?(?r. A small slinib class- 
ed among herbs, modest but worthy, bearing short spiked pale 
blue flowers, of a fine delicate odor, which they preserve when 
dried, and yield freely by distillation. The perfume is much 
used in making Eau de Cologne. It is hardy south of New 
York, and may be raised from seed, as sage (see p. 176), or by 
common or slip cuttings. 

13. Nerium Oleander, &c., Oleander. Several varieties 
of a showy and free-growing plant, with rose or crimson flow- 
ers, &c., well known under its common name. Increased by 
ofishoots, layers, or cuttings in earth or water. 

14. Passiflora C^rulea, &c.. Passion Fhiver. Several 
of the tender varieties are singularly fine. Increased by off- 
shoots or layers, and cuttings of the very young growth will 
root pretty well under glass. 

15. PiTTOSPORUM TOBIRA, Pittosporum. A pretty large 
green-house shrub, with glossy laurel-like leaves and single 
white flowers in small bunches, having a piny fragrance. In- 
creased by layers or cuttings. 

16. Rosa, Rose in varieties. Lamarque, Solfatarre, Chro- 
matella, among running roses, and Hermosa, Devoniensis, La 
Heine, and Souvenir de Malmaison among those of bush growth, 
may he named, to which additions may be made to such extent 
as individual taste may prompt. Young budded plants gen- 
erally bloom well in the house or green-house. 

17. Spir.ea Reevesii, &c.. Reeves'' s Spirma. A hardy 
shrub, with abundance of pure white flowers in green-house or 
garden. Spiraea prunifolia forms a small and rather compact 
bush, which covers itself with small double white flowers. In- 
creased by offshoots, layers, or cuttings. 

18. Viburnum Tinus, Lauriistinus. A pretty evergreen 
shrub, hardy at the South, with panicles of delicate white 
flowers. It is quite ornamental. Increased by offshoots, lay- 
ers, or cuttings shaded under glass. 

All the a]x)ve " shrubs for the green-house" that are not 
entirely hardy may be wintered safely, with a little care, in a 
common cellar with air and light. 



470 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



PLANTS OP SMALLER GROWTH FOR THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

TWENTY KINDS. 

1. Aloyzia Critiodora, Lemon Plant. A well-known old 
favorite. The lemon fragrance of its foliage has given it a 
name. Its flower is simple, but pretty. Increased by layers ; 
or cuttings of the last year's growth root freely, with or with- 
out glass, particularly if taken before they start in the spring 
from plants that have rested from growth through winter. 

2. Amaryllis Formosissima, Jacobean Lily. A fine deep 
scarlet lily, blooming freely potted in compost No. 3 ; bulbous. 

3. Begonl\ Sanguinea,&c., (7rmso?i-?eavec?^e(/o/wa. A 
peculiar soft-stemmed plant, with red leaves or leaf- veins, and 
delicate pink or flesh-colored wax-like flowers. Increased by 
ofishoots or cuttings. 

4. Calceolaria, Purse Flower. There are many varieties 
of this plant, some of which are herbaceous, others woody. 
They all bear flowers of a peculiar bag form, and in general are 
finely colored or spotted. Pretty in green-house or garden, but 
do not bear exposm'e to a strong sun. Licreased by seeds or 
cuttings. 

5. Calla Ethiopica, lAly of the Nile. The well-known 
pure white funnel-formed Ethiopian Lily. Increased freely by 
ofl"shoots if kept moist. 

6. Cineraria. A numerous family of very showy house 
plants, which bear profusely their star-like flowers, generally 
edged with various shades of crimson, and purple, and lilax? 
around a white centre. Increased by cuttings, and in some 
varieties freely by ofishoots. 

7. DiELYTRA Spectabilts, Beautlful Dielytra. A hardy 
plant, but making one of the finest ornaments of the gi-een- 
house. See page 462. 

8. Fabiana Imbricata. A delicate heath-like plant, cover- 
ing itself with small white tubular blossoms. Cuttings root 
freely under bell-glass in the shade. 

9. Fuchsia, Ladies'* Ear-drop. Of this old and favorite 
house-plant there is now a large number of new varieties, some 
of them very beautiful, some only peculiar, and some coarse and 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 471 

lacking almost entirely the grace that distinguished the older 
kinds. They are all readily increased by cuttings. 

10. Heliotropium, Heliotrope. A common house plant, 
with light or dark lilac blossoms of delightful fragrance. In- 
creased readily by cuttings. 

11. IpoMiEA. There are several varieties that make desira- 
ble climbers for the green-house ; their flowers resemble the 
Convolvulus, but are of sm-passingly fine colors. Increased by 
cuttings set in sand under a bell-glass, in a warm but shaded 
spot. 

12. Jasminum Revolutum, Yellow Jasmine. A semi- 
climbing plant, bearing yellow tubular flowers, the margin of 
which is rolled a little backward. Increased readily by cut- 
tings. 

13. Lonicera Japonic a, Japan Honeysuckle. A favorite 
fragrant climber. Increased by cuttings. 

14. LoPHOSPERMUM Erubescens, Fiiih LopJiospermum. 
A rather delicate climber, bearing somewhat sparsely fine light 
pink flowers of a tubular form ; sometimes set in open borders 
in summer. 

15. Maurandya Barclayana, Purple 3Iaurandya. A 
rapid and showy climber, with rather large tubed flowers of a 
fine purple color ; often raised as an annual — see page 459. 
Increased by seeds or cuttings. 

16. Mignonnette. Sown in pots, and not permitted to seed, 
it will continue to grow and blossom throughout the year. 

17. Pelargonium, Geranium. Of these plants there are 
innumerable varieties, many of them of great beauty, and a 
number with fine fragrance both of the leaf and blossom. All 
of them are increased freely by cuttings. When these are 
taken off very young, or from the fleshy-growing kinds, the cut 
ends should be suffered to dry a little before they are planted, 
to prevent rotting. Some of the kinds may also be raised read- 
ily from cuttings of the root. 

18. Petunia Alba, &c., Petunias. These showy annuals 
may be made to ornament the green-house or parlor by potting 
either old or young plants or cuttings in the fall, having first 
pretty thoroughly trimmed them ; they Avill grow afresh, and 



472 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

blossom freely throughout the -svinter with ordinary house 
treatment, 

19. Salvia Splendens, Fulgens, &c., Scarlet Sage, &c. 
The green-house varieties of Sage, which also flower freely in 
summer borders, afford flowers remarkable for the richness of 
their colors. They are easily increased by cuttings, and some 
varieties by seeds. 

20. Viola Odorata, Violets. Sweet Violets, blue or pur- 
ple, single or double, should have a place in every green-house 
or parlor as well as garden, for their exquisite odor. 

Almost all the above, as noted under each, may be raised 
from cuttings planted in June, and shaded either under glass 
or without it. As soon as they begin to root they should be 
potted in suitable compost — see page 443 — taking care to put 
small sherds, or stones, or broken shells into the bottom of eaxjh 
pot for proper drainage ; trim the young roots, if they have 
become long ; fill up the pot sufficiently before putting in the 
plant ; set its roots naturally, and fill the pot up cai'efully, 
shaking it a little from time to time, and pressing the earth 
moderately around the roots with the hand. Shade and water 
them carefully for a few days until they start afresh. If they 
are first set in small pots, they will require repotting with the 
older plants in August or September, preparatory to taking 
them in for winter. At this time let all straggling growth be 
removed, and all excess shortened, and the plants, both old and 
young, be brought into snug compass and neat condition. Let 
all matted roots also be cut away, and long ones be shortened ; 
remove a considerable portion of the old earth, and replace it 
with fresh compost. Shade and water them with special care 
until they recover from the operation, and before taking them 
in for winter, pick off" all dead or faded leaves, and burn them. 

If it be proposed simply to preserve the plants of this class 
through the winter, the shrubs and many of the smaller plants 
may be kept in a light, airy cellar ; but it is better that they 
be placed at once in a pit so graded as that the tops are eight 
or ten inches below the glass. The pit being properly banked 
around, the sashes may be put on when found necessary for 
the defense of the plants, and shutters, or straw mats, or both, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 473 

added as the cold becomes more severe, covering still thicker, 
if required, with long stable-manui'e. Keep these coverings 
dry from the first by spreading over all, and carefully fasten- 
ing, a strong canvas or India-rubber sheet that will shed the 
rain, and with which any ordinary snow can be rolled off as 
soon as the storm ceases. Open the front of the sashes to give 
air in mild weather, but keep them closed at all other times, 
letting in the shaded light occasionally, in bright moderate 
weather, at midday. As spring approaches, lessen the cov- 
ering, and gradually increase the air and light given until it 
is time to take them out for the summer. 

If it is intended to keep and bloom them in the house, they 
may be placed in a cold bed until the severe frost approaches, 
and then be transferred to a well-lighted room, without heat, 
and placed on their stands with castors ; or they may be at 
once taken to such a room in early fall, leaving it open day 
and night when the weather is not too severe ; into this room, 
by means of a drum, or register, or small stove, introduce only 
just so much warmth as will exclude frost until about mid- 
winter, then very gi-adually increase the heat until it rises to 
about 65° in the day ; let it sink in the night, but not lower 
than to about 40° at the lowest. If the thermometer goes 
above 70°, let in air carefully at the top of yom- Avindows. 
Never permit sudden variations of temperature ; if these oc- 
cur to any considerable extent, they will prove as injurious as 
a frost. Remove all decaying leaves, and keep the plants 
clean by washing them off with tepid ivater at least once a 
week if they become dusty : this may be effected by dipping 
their tops in a tub of water and moving them gently in it, or, 
if needful, the cleansing may be aided by the careful light use 
of a soft brush or fine sponge ; or set them one or two at a 
time in the tub, and shower them with the common rose water- 
ing-pot, held two or three feet above them, ad(hng to this also, 
if necessary, the use of the brush or sponge. 

K a room heated by a drum or register is appropriated ex- 
clusively to them, and they do not become dusty, water may 
be given moderately upon the surface of the earth in the pots 
once in three or four days, if it seems to be getting dry ; but 



474 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

do not suffer water to stand in the saucers unless it be for bulb- 
ous roots or water-plants, as the Calla, when blossoming. Let 
light and air be admitted as freely as is found safe. With care 
in this respect, any arrangement by which the room can be 
filled with the steam of clear water twice a week, for a few 
hours at a time, mitil it moistens the leaves, will preserve the 
plants in perfect health. For this purpose, a flexible steam- 
tube, that will fit on to the steam-tube of a kitchen boiler-cover, 
may be bought for about twenty cents a foot. If, however, 
they are in the parlor, this can not be done, and, whether there 
be dust or not, showering or dipping will be essential, or 'the 
more tedious process of washing each plant leaf by leaf with a 
soft sponge. 

All winter watering and washing of plants should be done 
in the morning, or at least when the heat is rising ; but the 
steam may be let in at night, and, if desired, form an impor- 
tant part of the heating medium during that time. 

Upon the south side of any dwelling a conservatory or plant- 
room may be made, in which plants will grow and bloom finely 
through the winter with no more artificial heat than may be 
afforded by a register from the adjoining room, and the occa- 
sional use of steam as above directed. For such a room or 
conservatory the sashes should be glazed on both sides, about 
an inch space intervening between the panes ; and, as this 
double glazing makes the sashes heavy, provision for admit- 
ting air should be made by having one or two of them short, 
and arranged to slide horizontally. 

No shutters are needed, but shades will be found essential ; 
for, if the full sunlight be admitted, the oft-repeated and great 
fluctuations of temperature between noon and midnight, or be- 
tween the warmer and colder days of winter, will forbid success, 
except with the very hardiest plants. An equable but grad- 
ually advancing temperatiu-e must by all means be secured. 

If a cheap green-house is desired, one may be built precise- 
ly as directed for a cold grapery, page 355. Arrange the 
" staging" for yom* plants, consisting of shelves, placed stair 
fashion, six inches w ide, and varying from seven to ten inches 
high, leaving a broad platform toward the back wall, upon 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



475 



which the larger plants may be set. Place other shelves, as 
may be fomid convenient, along the front, or in any spare space, 
for smaller plants or cuttings. 

It may be heated by a small common brick flue running en- 
tirely around it under the staging, rising a little as it goes, 
and connecting with a chimney at the end. If the draught is 
insufficient, it may be increased by a pretty high wooden ex- 
tension of the chimney, to be well secm'ed against the wind. 
If preferred, the heating apparatus figured and described below 
may be introduced. 



Fig. SOT. 




«. A small copper cylinder furnace, with common stove draught, of which the fire-cham- 
ber ia thirteen inches deep and nine inches diameter, surrounded by a copper water-cham- 
ber ; whole diameter eleven inches. The draught and fire managed as in a common stove. 

b. The boiler, placed a little higher than the furnace. It may be a barrel, or a metallic 
vessel, which will radiate more heat. 

c. c. Iron circulating tubes from the water-chamber to the boiler. 

d. AVater-tank, to be kept filled. 

e. Supply-pipe from tank to boiler, to be governed by a floating ball or other arrange- 
ment in the boiler. 

The above apparatus, which may cost some $10, was, I be- 
lieve, originally intended to be used with tubes only a few 
inches long, for heating water for domestic uses ; but it serves 
admirably for a small green-house, in which it may be all hid- 
den by the staging, &c., except the furnace. Let the arrange- 
ment be such as to make the course of the circulating tubes as 
direct as possible between the water-chamber and boiler, rising 
a little toward the latter. The only danger is of collapse from 
exhaustion of the water in the boiler below the mouth of the 
upper tube, and this is entirely removed by attention to filling 
the tank regularly, and as often as is necessary. A little ex- 
perience will enable you to regulate the degree of fire to be 
kept up. A barrel of water, at a distance of sixteen to twenty 



476 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

feet, may be boiled in about an hour, and an escape tube should 
be fixed so as to carry the steam entirely outside when not re- 
quired for heating, &c. 

When using it for any purpose within the house, fix the cov- 
ering, &c., of the boiler so that the escaping steam will not 
strike any plant directly. When it is thus permitted to escape 
during the night, your plants, on opening the house in the 
morning, will generally appear as if covered with the heavy 
dew of a cool night in early fall. They will not need syi-in- 
ging, but perhaps a little care to plac© any plants that may be 
disposed to suffer from moisture near to the furnace, where they 
will dry off quickly. Let your sashes be well glazed ; cover 
them with good shutters or straw mats, or use double glazed 
sashes and shades, and give attention to the gradual increase 
of the temperature as above directed for house treatment. Wa- 
ter moderately in the morning once or twice a Aveek, as may be 
found requisite, rather giving too little than too much at any 
one time. If the temperature rise to 70°, give air at the back 
ventilators ; and if higher, admit a little also at the door or 
lower ventilators, or both. 

The green-house is sometimes troubled with a small bright 
red spider, which is very injm'ious to the plants. Moisture 
prevents it ; but if it appear, the house should be Avhitewashed 
while the Avash is still hot, mixing into each pailful about a 
pound of sulphm-. If aphides or other insects infest the plants, 
close the house carefully, and burn tobacco in a small furnace 
or otherwise in it, until completely filled with the smoke, al- 
lowing it to remain thick for fifteen or twenty minutes ; then 
open the house and syringe it thoroughly. 

With the same view, single plants may be set in a covered 
barrel containing tobacco, which may be rapidly burned by 
blowing through a small draught-hole left for the purpose near 
the bottom ; or the same end may be attained by setting a few 
sticks around the plant, and throwing a cloth over and around 
it, burning the tobacco underneath. For large plants an um- 
brella may be used, with a stick of sufficient length spliced for 
the time to its handle, and a cast-off skirt, hooped if conven- 
ient, with the gathers taken out, run on to its outer edge ; this 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 477 

being set over the plant by fixing the lower end of the stick in 
the earth, the tobacco-burning proceeds. 

Dipping the plants in tobacco infusion or weak ley may bo 
substituted ; but, Avhatever course is adopted, the plants must 
be dipped in, or showered, or syi'inged with clear Avater almost 
immediately afterward, and the plants so treated will not con- 
tinue free from these pests unless kept in vigorous health by 
increased care. 

If earth-worms become troublesome, water the pots a few 
times with lime-water. 

In the spring, when the plants are taken out for the season, 
clear them perfectly from dead leaves, &c. ; wash the outside 
of the pots ; clean the house thoroughly, and let all the gath- 
ered rubbish be carefully bm'ned. In the fall when they are 
taken in again, repeat these operations. 

HARDY SHRUBS. 

TWENTY-FIVE KINDS. 

All flowering shrubs and plants that bear their blossoms 
upon the young growth of the season, as the Althea, or August 
flower, the Rose, &c., should be carefully and pretty closely 
trimmed every winter or spring. Others, that produce their 
flowers on the branches of the previous season's growth, should 
only be pruned so much as is needful to secure compactness 
and symmetry of foi*m. 

1. Almond Dwarf, Double-flowering, ^m?/5rc?aksPer- 
sica. A very showy early flowering shrub. Raised from off- 
shoots or layers. 

2. Buffalo Berry, Shepardia argentea. This is classed 
among fruit-bearing shrubs, but it is also quite ornamental. 
Increased by layers or seeds. 

3. Burning Bush, Euonymns Americanus. Its common 
name is derived from the profusion of bright red angular ber- 
ries which it bears in the fall. Raised from seeds or layers. 

4. Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera. Several pretty pink 
flowering varieties. Increased readily from offshoots, layers, 
or cuttings. 

5. Chinese Weigela, Weigela rosea, W. amabilis. A new 



478 AMERICAN HOME -GARDEN. 

hardy shrub from Northern China, with a profusion of single 
rose-colored flowers, somewhat resembling the smaller Rose 
Bay or Rhododendron. Increased by offshoots or layers. 

6. Deutzia, Large-flowering, Deutzia scahra ; Small-flow- 
ering, Deutzia gracilis. These very pretty shrubs are of simi- 
lar habit in every respect, except the size of their blossoms and 
growth. Their abounding pure white flowers resemble a mul- 
titude of snow-drops hung gracefully upon the branches, one 
of which might well sufiice to form a bridal wreath. Increased 
from offshoots, layers, or cuttings. 

7. False Indigo, Amorpha fruticosa. A wild shrub of 
Pennsylvania, bearing spikes of blue flowers in July. In- 
creased by layers, cuttings, or seeds. 

8. Flowering Currant, Rocky Mountain Currant ; Bibes 
aureum,Golden Flowering ; Atro sanguineum, Scarlet. Very 
showy shrubs, that are increased by layers or cuttings, and al- 
most too readily from offshoots. 

9. ¥0Y{BYTRiA,CiimE&E, Forsythia viridissima. A showy 
early-flowering shrub, its branches seeming ruffled with the 
abundance of its curious crumpled yellow blossoms. The foli- 
age which comes after the flowers is of a fine deep green, and 
the whole plant ornamental. Increased by offshoots, layers, or 
cuttings. 

10. Fringe -tree, Bhus cotlnus, Venetian sumach. A 
shrub rather curious than pretty. 

11. Fringe-tree, the American, Chionanthus Virginica. 
Common about New York and southward. Bearing a profusion 
of white fringe-like flowers in the spring. Increased by off- 
shoots or layers. 

12. Globe Flower, Kerria japonica. A showy yellow 
flowering shrub of willowy growth, spreading so much from the 
roots as often to be deemed a pest. 

13. Lilac, common and Persian, Purple, White, Syringa 
grandifiora, Persica. Well-known flowering sln-ubs. All are 
increased by offshoots or layers. The common Avhite and the 
Persian, both white and purple, are worthy of more extended 
cultivation. 

1 4. May-apple, Azalea nudiflora. Known also as " Hon- 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 479 

eysuckle," " Pinxter Blomache," and " Swamp Pink." There 
are many hardy varieties of these pretty shrubs, all which may 
be increased from layers or seals. Prune closely, or cut them 
clean down if transplanting them from the swamps or woods. 

15. Mezereum, Daphne mezcreimi. Except the wild Yel- 
low-root and the Leather-wood, this is the earliest shrub that 
puts forth. Its blossoms are purplish, showy, and very fragrant. 
Increased freely from its pretty red berries, if sown as soon as 
they drop. It should have a deep, dry, loamy soil. 

16. Osage Orange, 3Iaclura aurantica. A thorny shrub, 
with foliage and worthless fruit resembling the orange. It is 
ornamental, but is chiefly used for hedges, which, when made, 
should always be trimmed pyramidally — that is, broad at the 
bottom, and gradually narrowing to the top, otherwise the over- 
shadowing top will kill the undergrowth and spoil the beauty 
of the hedge. Increased by seeds, layers, and cuttings. 

17. Privet, Prim, Ligustrum vidgare. A small, pretty 
semi -evergreen shrub, used for ornamental hedges or singly. 
Increased from offshoots, layers, or cuttings, planted in the fall. 

18. Roses, Rosa Damascena, &c. Annual Roses bloom 
but once a year, in spring or early summer, and hence are often 
called June Roses. Autumnal and ever-blooming Roses blos- 
som most heavily at this season, but bloom again more or less 
freely, according to soil, climate, and treatment, throughout 
the summer and fall, which gives them their peculiar value. 
The fragrance of the Annual Roses, as a class, is very distinct 
from the perfume of the old Monthly or the more tender and 
highly-scented Tea Roses, &c., and it has been so long con- 
nected with recurring spring or opening summer that it is 
highly esteemed, not only for its intrinsic character, but also 
for its pleasant associations. Many of the stronger-growing 
autumnal Roses are of similar odor, and, though blooming in 
late summer or fall, bring back, as we gather them, all the fresh- 
ness of the opening season. The kinds named below are se- 
lected from various classes of Roses known as Bourbons, Per- 
petuals,Remontants, Hybrids, &c., &c., the distinctions between 
•which are arbitrary, and unintelligible to all but the florist or 
amateur, and are therefore entirely disregarded. 



480 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



ANNUAL ROSES. 

EIGHTEEN VARIETIES. 
DARK. 

Tuscany, Black Tuscany, dark velvety purple. 
Rivers' George IV. (pillar), rich violet-crimson. 
Dutch Velvet, bright carmine. 
Gloire de Colmai-, deep crimson. 

ROSE COLOR. 

Maiden, deep rose. 

Moss, Common Blush, rose. 

Moss, Crested, rose. 

Cabbage Provence, rose. 

Coup d'Hebe (pillar), bright pink. 

YELLOW. 

Persian Yellow, golden color (not fragrant). 

Harrison, bright straw color. 

Madam Stolz, pale straw color. 

Fortune's Yellow, yellow, tinged with red — a free bloomer. 

W H I T B, C R E A M Y. 

Unique, or White Provence, white. 

Clementine, pure Avhite. 

Count Plater, cream color. 

Bouquet (tout fait), pillar, creamy white, clustered, and very fragrant. 

STRIPED. 

Tout Parfait, white varied with rose and crimson ; the best known striped 



EVER-BLOOMING AND AUTUMNAL ROSES. 

THIRTY VARIETIES. 

Agrippina, bright scarlet. 

Giant of the Battles, glowing scarlet. 

Jules Margottin, bright scarlet. 

Count de Paris, bright crimson. 

I'rince Albert, crimson pin-ple. 

Edward Jesse, deep purplish-crimson. 

Paul Joseph, rosy-crimson. 

Bouquet de Flore, deep carmine. 

La Reinc, brilliant glossy rose color ; large. 

Madam Ory, bright rose ; mossy. 

Belmont (pillar), bright rose (a fac simile of the old China Monthly). 

Prince Leon, bright cherry. 



AMERICAN HOME GAKDEN. 481 

Baronne Prevost (pillar), brilliant rose color. 
Lady Alice Peel, rosy-carmine. 
Robin Hood (pillar), rosy- carmine. 
Dr. Marx, bright rosy-carmine. 
Bernard, salmon-pink. 

Hermosa, pale rose ; known sometimes as the Monthly Cabbage Rose, com- 
mon, but one of the finest of roses. 
Odorata, old tea-scented, light pink. 
Eivers', rose shaded with buff. 
William Griffiths, bright lilac-rose. 
Souvenir de Malmaison, pale flesh color ; large. 
Madam Bosanquet, light flesh color. 
Eliza Sauvage, pale yellow, orange centre. 
Solfatarre, sulphur yellow ; very fragrant. 
Lamarque, very pale straw color. 
Devoniensis, creamy white. 
Acidalie (pillar), white. 
Eliza Balcombe, white, blooming in clusters. 
Eponine, pure white ; clusters. 

Annual roses are increased by offshoots or by layers. Most 
of the kinds thi^ow up the former too freely, but the Moss, the 
Maiden, and some other valuable kinds require careful layering 
in a warm, sandy soil, or in compost No. 2, which may be per- 
formed either in fall or early spring, or in June upon the yomig 
growth of the season. 

Of the Autumnal and Ever-blooming Roses, all may be in- 
creased by layers ; some throw up offshoots as freely as the An- 
nuals, and the more delicate kinds may be readily raised from 
cuttings. Some of them are hardy any where, but others re- 
quire banking with earth or careful coating with straw north 
of Philadelphia, and a few, as Solfatarre and Devoniensis, even 
somewhat south of that point. Wherever this is necessary, 
the best and most convenient mode will generally be to bend 
the whole plant down and cover it with the common earth six 
or eight inches deep. Open and set them into place early in 
the spring, and prune carefully and pretty closely. 

Autumnal and Ever-blooming Roses, in order to secure the 
highest success in their summer and fall flowering, require to 
be managed with some care, otherwise their heavy spring crop 
of blossoms will so far exhaust them that but few will be sub- 
sequently yielded. If, however, certain selected bushes be pre- 

X 



482 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

vented from blooming in spring or early summer by plucking 
the incipient buds, or by deferring their winter pruning imtil 
the leaf is putting forth, and then cutting them closely back, 
they will probably furnish abundance of blossoms late in sum- 
mer or in the fall. Transplanting or root pruning, with cut- 
ting back in the fall or very early spring, will be found con- 
ducive to the same result ; but any or all of these means should 
be accompanied by high compost or liquid manuring and clean 
and careful culture. For Running Roses, see page 484. 

Rose-bushes are infested with various insects, particularly 
the Aphis and Scale insect, for which the remedies directed 
pages 264 and 265 may be used. The Rose worm or slug, larva 
of Selandria (Blennocampa) Rosae, is still more injm-ious. It is 
a small, greenish, smooth, semitransparent worm, resembling 
the Cherry slug, page 275, about half an inch long, found often 
in June on the under side of the leaves of rose-bushes, which 
it eats until only the veins and the thin skin of the upper side 
of the leaf are left. They do not generally eat over the whole 
leaf, but spot it ; but in moist seasons they abound, and will 
then sweep the rose foliage as if fire had scorched it. 

Sowing slaked lime, or dry ashes, or sulphur upon the 
bushes, or syringing them with weak ley or whale-oil soap may 
destroy the worm, but vigorous health in the plants generally 
prevents it. 

19. Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus Syriacus, known also as 
AUhea, or August FloAver. Increased from layers, cuttings, or 



20. Scarlet Quince, Cydonia japonica (formerly Pyrus 
japonica). Increased by cuttings of the root or by layers, 
and sparingly by offshoots. Extremely showy and of pretty 
foliage. 

21. Spirea, Reeves's, Double-blossomed, &c., Spirea Beve- 
sii, prunifolia flore pleno, &c, A class of pretty white- 
flowering shrubs, spreading freely by offshoots, or increased by 
i ayers. 

22. Snowball, Guelder Rose, Viburnam opulus. An old 
and well-known shrub ; increased from offshoots, and still more 
readily by layers. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 483 

23. Snowberry, Symphoria racemosa. A simple shrub, 
bearing bunches of white berries until late in the season. Its 
numerous offshoots become troublesome. 

24. Syringa, Fhiladelpkus coronarius, PMladelphus gran- 
difiora. The former is universally known for its fragrance. 
The latter has larger similar flowers, but lacks odor. Increased 
by offshoots, layers, or cuttings. 

25. Sweet-scented Shrub, CalycantJms Icevigatus. A 
native of the Southern States, widely known for its " apple" or 
" strawberry"-scented maroon-colored blossoms. Increased by 
offshoots, layers, and with care by cuttings. 

CLIMBING SHRUBS. 

TWELVE KINDS. 

All the following climbing shrubs, as well as those for the 
green-house, may be increased by layering in the ordinaiy mode, 
or by span layering, some by offshoots, and most of them, also, 
by cuttings planted in a cold bed in October, and protected a 
little through winter, and shaded and aired through spring ; 
or in the green-house at any time from November to April ; 
or in a light hot bed, made for the purpose, in the spring or 
summer, and kept carefully watered, and shaded, and aired 
after the cuttings are planted. 

1. Bittersweet, Celastrus scandem. A common but beau- 
tiful winchng wild climber. 

2. Clematis, White, or Virgin's Bower, Blue, Sweet-scent- 
ed, &c.. Clematis Virgmica, cerulea, Jlammula, &c. Slender 
and graceful tendril climbers ; the first a hardy wild plant, the 
last an exotic, tender at the North, but of delightful fragi-ance. 
Clematis Sieholdii is a fine Japanese species, also tender. 

3. Honeysuckle, Scarlet Tiimipet, Yellow Trumpet, Chi- 
nese Evergreen, &c., Lonicera semper virens, flava, Sinensis, 
&c. Ornamental and perfectly hardy winding climbers ; the 
last. Sinensis, being of beautiful foliage and excellent fra- 
grance, almost an evergi'een. 

4. Ivy, Irish, European, Hedera Hihernica and H. helix. 
A creeping, rooting climber, with deep green glossy leaves, 
sometimes planted to run on chm'ch edifices, but ha\dng, at 



484 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

the North, a sorry appearance when winter has browned the 
foliage. It is pretty in pots as a house plant. 

5. Ivy, American, or Virginian Creeper, Ampehpsis quin- 
quefolia. A very fine ornamental rooting climber, growing 
wild over a wide region. It is often found in company with 
the Poison Vine, Rhus Toxicodendron, and not unfrequently 
mistaken for it, yet is easily distingmshable, each leaf having 
five leaflets, rather narrow and toothed, while the Poison Vine 
has but thi^ee, which are broader and smooth-edged. 

6. Jasmine, White, Sweet, &c.,Jasmm'W77^o^c^7^afe, &c. A 
simple, fragrant, and pretty runner, but requires training, hav- 
ing neither tendrils nor other effective means of self-support. 
At the North it is only half hardy ; it may be laid down, and 
either covered with straw or banked with earth. 

7. Milk Vine, Virginia Silk, Periploca Grceca. A wild 
climber, with rather pretty, clean foliage and purple blossoms, 
abounding south of New Jersey. 

8. Passion Flower, Blue Hardy, Passifiora cerulea. A 
free-growing slender tendril climber, called hardy, requiring 
protection from the severity of winter north of Philadelphia, 
but springing up from the root annually, and blooming freely. 
Its flowers, like all of its class, are peculiar and striking. 

9. Roses, Running, Bosa. Belmont (see page 480) ; Prai- 
rie Queen, bright rose-color ; Laura Davoust, white, becoming 
pink ; Baltimore Belle, delicate blush, large clusters, not fra- 
grant ; Garland, white — the well-known old white trellis Rose ; 
Rampant, pure white ; blooms late. 

There are many other fine varieties, tender at the North, 
which, however, may be successfully grown if laid down for 
winter like tender grape-vines, and covered thoroughly with 
earth. 

10. Trumpet Creeper, Common, Chinese Great Flowering, 
&c., Bignonia radicans, grandifiora, &c." Very strong, luxu- 
riant-growing rooting climbers. The last is somewhat new, 
having large dull orange-colored blossoms. The flowers of the 
Common are scarlet, and more compact. 

11. Vine, Grape, Vitis. The value of the grape as a fruit 
is perhaps leading us to overlook the beauty of the vine as a 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 4«5 

climber, and to forget its fragrance, in wliich it is almost sin- 
gular among om:- wild climbing shrubs. It is really one of the 
very finest of climbers, perfectly hardy and vigorous ; and, when 
left to the complete abandon of its natural growth, there is an 
extreme wealth of picturesque beauty in its graceful convolu- 
tions, as well as in the profusion and richness of its diversified 
forms of foliage, while no perfume floats upon the summer air 
more delicious than the odor of its blossoms. 

Its varieties, both fruit-bearing and fruitless, are numerous ; 
and the wild, fruitless, gash-leaved vine ( Vitis riparia) is pe- 
culiarly fragrant. 

12. Wistaria, Blue Chinese, Wistaria Sinensis. A per- 
fectly hardy and very rapid winding runner, having a peculiar 
pair of hooks, turning backward, at each joint, which some- 
times aid its ascent. It bears a perfect burden of large pen- 
dent racemes of pale lilac or blue flowers, of a peculiar and 
delicate fragrance, which come out before the foliage expands 
in the spring. The absence of green leaves with the blossoms 
is a drawbaxjk upon its beauty which in some localities might 
be obviated by arranging it so as to intermingle its growth 
with an evergreen, though its own foliage is flne when it ap- 
pears. If the young shoots are nipped at about two feet long in 
June or July, a considerable second crop of blossoms will be 
yielded in August. 

Many of these climbers may be planted to run upon trees, 
either deciduous or evergreen. They show finely in combina- 
tion with either, but those which wind should not be set by 
trees while young, lest they cut in and destroy them. They 
may also be made to overrun rocks, or rough stone fences 
which it i s desired to blind. 

Artificial rock-work is sometimes made for ornament by 
throwing together loose stones or rocks in such forms as fancy 
dictates, and mixing with them just enough of leaf-mould and 
loam to afford support to small plants. For these the various 
kinds of Stonecrop may be used, interspersed with Columbines, 
Wood Anemones, &c. If it be desired to cover them, plant 
some of the above climbers, or Petunias, Portulacca, &c., among 
them. The plant known in European agriculture as Esparsette, 



486 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

or Saintfoin, is also useful in this way, its flowers and foliage 
being quite pretty, and its roots running so that it is almost 
impossible to destroy them. Hops answer a similar purpose. 

EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 

FOURTEEN KINDS. 

1. Arbor Vit^e, American (Savin), Thuya Occidentcdis ; 
Chinese, Thuya Orientalis ; Siberian, Thuya Siberica. All 
pretty evergreens, often used for hedges ; but the Chinese is 
rather tender, and unsightly in winter. 

2. Balsam Fir, American, Picea halsamea. A common 
but fine tree. 

3. Box-tree, Buxus arhorescens, &c. A fine ornamental 
evergreen, with silver or golden striped varieties, resembling 
somewhat the common garden box, but of freer and larger 
growth, and not so hardy. Increased by layers. 

4. Cedar, Indian, Cedrus deodara. A fine drooping ev- 
ergreen, growing late in the fall, and often injured by the cold 
of winter at the North. 

5. Cedar, Red, Juniperus Virginiana. Too common to 
be esteemed as it deserves. Good for ornamental hedges, and 
excellent for shelter. 

6. Cedar of Lebanon, Cedrus Lihani ; Silver-leaved, Ce- 
drus argentea. Fine trees, but of slow growth. The Cedar 
of Lebanon is, however, worthy of cultivation for its associa- 
tions. Its seeds are borne in fine large cones. 

7. Cotoneaster, Small-leaved, Cotoneaster microphylla. 
A small, pretty shrub. Increased by layers. 

8. Holly, American, Ilex opaca ; European, Ilex aquifo- 
lium. The European Holly has a very deep green foliage, and 
the variegated kinds are pretty and desirable wherever the win- 
ters are not too severe. They are grafted upon stocks of the 
green varieties, generally by tongue-grafting, a little extra care 
being used in the operation. 

9. Mahonia, Holly-leaved, Mahonia aqui/olia. A showy 
shrub three or fom^ feet high, especially gay in the fall, but 
having its foliage injured in the winter at the North, unless 
covered from the sun. Increased by layers. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 487 

10. Pine, White or Wejmaouth, Pinus strobus ; California, 
Piiius Benthamana ; Grand Pacific, Pm^^s Lambertiana, often 
grows two hundred feet high ; Long-leaved, Pinus larico ; Nut, 
Pinus cembra, growing only fifteen to twenty feet, having a 
large cone with edible seeds. 

There are many other varieties of Pines, several of them new 
and very beautiful. 

11. Spruce, Hemlock (common Hemlock), Abies Canaden- 
sis ; Norway, Abies excelsa. Among the noblest of evergreen 
trees. The former, when tasseled with its young spring growth, 
is peculiarly beautiful. 

12. Japan Dogwood, Euonymus japonicus. Pretty, but 
tender at the North. Increased by offshoots, layers^ or cuttings. 

13. Laurel, Kalmia latifolia. The beautiful wild Laurel 
of our woods, which, as it disappears before cultivation, should 
be transferred to the lawn and garden. Its unfading green- 
ness, and the composition of its blossom-tuft by the union of an 
indefinite number of star-like flower-buds, each perfect in itself, 
render it by no means an inappropriate floral emblem of our 
national Union. Increased by layers or seeds. 

14. Rose Bay, Catawba Rose Bay, Rhododendron Cataic- 
biense ; Great Laurel or Larger Rose Bay, Rhododendron 
maximum. Fine flowering wild swamp shrubs, requiring, 
when cultivated, some shade and moistm-e. The first, which is 
the finest of its tribe, may need a little winter protection in 
certain localities. They thrive in leaf mould, or peat, or sweet- 
ened swamp muck. Increased by layers, and sometimes by 
seeds. 

shade and ornamental trees. 

TWENTY-FOUR KINDS. 

Almost all our shade and ornamental trees, as well as shrubs 
and evergreens, may be raised from seed by those who have pa- 
tience to wait for their growth. 

If possible, the drying and storing of their seeds should be 
avoided. All those which are naturally shed in the fill, as 
chestnuts, acorns, maple and ash " keys," &c., should either be 
sown in the fall, or mixed with earth and bmied out of doors 



488 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 

until spring ; and those which usually retain their own cover- 
ing until spring, as the Catalpa, the Hemlock, the various 
Pines, the Locust, the Tulip-tree, &c., may be sown at the 
eai-liest opening of spring directly from the tree, or may be col- 
lected in the fall or winter, and kept in their pods or cones till 
wanted. 

Some seeds of trees and shrubs are difficult to sprout, as the 
Locust and some others, which, when not sown until spring, are 
benefited by being first scalded by pouring hot water upon 
them while stirred, and suffering them to cool. Others, as the 
seeds of the Rose and the various berry -bearing Thorns, require 
to be sown or buried in their first season, but do not vegetate 
until the second year. 

Evergreens are apt to be extremely feeble when they first 
spring from seed, and require special care. All the seedlings, 
whether of evergreens or deciduous ti'ees, should be transplanted 
carefully at one or two years old, and subsequently every third 
or fom'th year, having their roots shortened at each removal, to 
prepare them for final setting out. See page 492. 

FORMING AND PRUNING. 

The proper formation and pruning of the head of young 
shade and ornamental trees is of great importance. We do not 
look for our return in fruit, but in beauty from these, and if the 
main limbs are permitted to start at acute angles, so that as 
they enlai'ge they will touch and rub, the tree, when of full size, 
or before, will become diseased, and liable to be split in pieces 
by a single gust of wind. It may be well to bolt them strong- 
ly when they begin to crack, as is sometimes done to save fine 
shade-trees in our city streets, but it is much better to prevent 
the necessity for such a course. You may do what you will 
with them while they are young. Never, therefore, let the 
principal branches spring as the fingers spring from the palm, 
but compel them to put forth rather as the arms stand out 
from the shoulders when the hands are raised above the head. 

Except in the case of the grape-vine, it is not common to at- 
tempt to combine profit with ornament in tree-planting, yet 
certainly many varieties of fruit-trees are highly ornamental, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 489 

and some of them are also, on various accounts, well suited to 
the lawn. Among others, that bearing the rather small, pretty 
sweet apple, called by Duhamel the " Pigeonnette,^^ which is a 
beautifully-formed tree, with clean, expanding anns and free 
habit, and, though the fruit may be kept into winter, yet it be- 
gins to ripen early, and is admirably adapted to the use of 
children, as it falls gradually from the tree. 

Along our country roads, too, fruit-trees might to some ex- 
tent be properly planted, not only for ornament, but use, to be 
reckoned, like our wild fruits, as common property. 

Besides those named above, our woods furnish a great variety 
of fine ornamental trees, which are easily obtained. The Chest- 
nut, Castanea Americana ; the various Oaks, particularly the 
White Oak, Quercus alba, and the Rock Oak, Quercus monta- 
na, both yielding also solid and useful timber ; the American 
Linden or Basswood, Tilia glabra ; the Wild Cherry, Primus 
Virginiana ; the Hop Hornbeam or Ironwood, Ostrya Vir- 
ginica ; the Shad Flower, Aronia hotryapium, and many oth- 
ers, which the following list does not include. 

1. Ash, Weeping, Fraxinus pendula. A curious and pret- 
ty ash, readily increased by side grafting upon the common 
kinds. 

2. Beech, Copper-colored or Purple, Fagus purpurea ; Red, 
Fagus ferruginea ; Common, Fagus sylvatica. The two lat- 
ter are common in our woods, and are clean and beautiful for- 
est trees. The first, which is curious, may be grafted upon 
them by tongue or side grafting. 

3. Birch, White, Betula alba ; Red, Betula rubra ; Yel- 
low, Betula excelsa / Paper, Betula papyracea. All common, 
aboimding, and beautiful. 

4. Catalpa, or Cigar-tree, CataJpa syringcefolia. A fine 
flowering tree, easily raised from seeds sown in the spring. 

5. Cherries, Large Double-flowering, Cerasus sylvestris 
pleno ; Weeping, Cerasus vulgaris semper jior ens. May be 
grafted on any common kind. 

6. Chinese Kolreuteria, Kolreuteria paniculata. A 
pretty tree, with a profusion of yellow blossoms in the latter 
part of summer. Increased by layers. 

X 2 ' 



490 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

7. Dogwood, Cornus Jlorida, Common Dogwood ; Cornus 
sericea, Red Osier. Both pretty, and easily obtained from the 
■woods. 

8. Elm, Ulmiis Americana, &c. There are many varieties, 
all ornamental and some fanciful. Increased by seeds, layers, 
or by grafting one kind upon another. 

9. Golden Chain, Cytisus laburnam. A small tree, of 
pretty foliage and rather weeping habit, bearing large racemes 
or hanging bunches of golden-yellow flowers. It is a univer- 
sal favorite. Increased by seeds. 

10. Horse Chestnut, ^sculus Mppocastanum. A very 
fine ornamental tree, blooming freely. The Buckeye, JEsculus 
glah^a, is a rather smaller and more compact-growing kind. 
The Rubicunda is a red-flowering variety. The two former 
are increased from seed, and the latter may be grafted upon 
them. 

11. Larch, Pinus larix. An exotic deciduous Pine, near 
akin to the Tamarack or Hackmatack and the Red Larch of our 
swamps, but thought by some to be prettier. Increased from 
seeds. 

12. Locust, Rose-colored, Rohinia Mspida; Flesh-colored, 
Rohinia viscosa. Both of these are pretty, the former es\)e- 
cially so when grafted high upon the common locust. Increased 
by ofl"shoots. Rohinia pseudacacia is the common but beauti- 
ful and fragrant Locust-tree. Increased by seeds, or offshoots, 
or root cuttings, which can easily be transported to almost any 
distance. 

13. Magnolia, Magnolia glauca. Beaver-tree, Swamp Lau- 
rel ; Magnolia acuminata, Cucumber-tree ; Magnolia tripeta- 
la. Umbrella-tree ; Magnolia grandijlora. Big Lam-el, Magno- 
lia. All these are found in swamps or woods south of New 
York, the last being the large fragrant Magnolia of the South. 
There are also several fine kinds from China, where it is called 
the Lily-tree. Of these, or seedlings from them. Magnolia con- 
spicua and Magnolia Soulangiana are large-flowering showy va- 
rieties, blooming before the foliage appears. All are increased 
by layers, and most of them by seeds. They may also be 
grafted on the common varieties. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 491 

14. Maple, Red, Acer rubra ; Sugar, Acer saccharinum ; 
Larger, Acer major. The latter is the European Sycamore, 
the two former well-known and favorite shade-trees. All in- 
crease rapidly from seeds, 

15. Mountain Ash, Sorbus (or Pyrus) aucuparia. A 
tree of pretty growth and foliage, bearing niunerous white blos- 
soms, like the Elder, from which large bunches of berries are 
produced, that become of a shining orange- scarlet color in the 
fall. Increased by seeds or common and hill-layers. 

16. Mulberry, Morus rubra. Common Red Mulberry of 
the woods. A desirable tree, where the fruit-stain may not be 
objectionable. The Paper Mulberry somewhat resembles it in 
gi'owth, but soon becomes a nuisance from its numerous off- 
shoots. 3Iorus Multicaulis is also well known, and, by some, 
still better remembered. Increased from layers, or offshoots, 
or seeds. Ranks among fruits. See page 358. 

17. Paulownia, Japanese, Pauloivnia imperialis. A fine, 
rapid-growing shade-tree, with heart-shaped leaves, which, 
upon young growth, sometimes measure two feet across. Its 
blossom-buds are formed in the Ml, in spikes, each bud being 
inclosed in a fawn-colored covering of finer texture than the 
finest doeskin cloth, but are often killed by the winter north 
of New York. Its flowers, which are put forth before the fo- 
liage, are not unlike those of the Catalpa in general form and 
style of gi'owth, but are of a fine light blue, and very fragrant. 
Increased by offshoots, hill-layers, and cuttings of the root. 

18. Peach, Double Blossomed, Pemca i;2<?5ran'5^fewo. A 
very pretty pink rose-like flower is borne by this tree in the 
usual profusion of peach blossoms, and sometimes three or four 
angular fruit are produced from one blossom. Increased by 
budding on peach or plum stocks. 

19. Pepperidge, Nyssa villosa. A common tree, but very 
ornamental, both in its summer growth, and when the frost 
makes its leaves vermilion colored in the fall. Readily obtain- 
ed from the woods. It would make ornamental hedges of great 
beauty. 

20. Pride of India, Melia azedarach. A splendid flower- 
ing tree of the South, with large divided leaves, and clusters 



492 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

of fragrant lilac flowers at the extremities of its branches, well 
known in the latitudes to which it is suited. Increased freely 
by seeds or layers. 

21. Sassafras, Laurus sassafras. A sweet, aromatic, and 
pretty tree, worthy of a place wherever ornamental shrubs are 
planted. Increased by layers, offshoots, or root cuttings. It 
can be obtained from the woods. 

22. Thorn, Crataegus, coccinea, pleno, Double Scarlet Haw- 
thorn. A very delicate and pretty deep pink or scarlet flower- 
ing thorn. Increased by grafting on the common Hawthorn. 

23. Tulip-tree, Whitewood, Liriodendron tulipi/era. One 
of the noblest and most beautiful of flowering trees, often cov- 
ering itself with its green and orange blossoms. When not 
crowded its head forms a handsome cone, but in the woods it 
sometimes runs a clean column eighty feet high. Increased 
by hill-layers or by seeds, which seldom vegetate until the 
second year. 

24. Willow, Weeping, &c., Salix Babylonica, &c. The 
Weeping Willow, the Golden Twigged, and the Golden Flow- 
ering Willows, and other varieties, are quite ornamental. The 
Osier Willows form an article of commerce. In Belgium they 
are sometimes so planted as to be mowed from year to year. 

REMOVING ORNAMENTAL TREES, EVERGREENS, &c. 

Ornamental or forest trees or shrubs and evergreens very 
often' fail to live when removed, and still oftener only just 
live and linger along, making but feeble growth for years. To 
prevent this, and secure vigor as well as life after removal, 
some preparation is desirable. In all well-managed nurseries 
this preparation is given by repeatedly transplanting trees of 
this class, shortening their roots from time to time, so as to 
limit the growth of single strong roots, and increase and con- 
centrate fibrous ones ai'ound the collar and the short main roots 
proceeding from it. If we do not form a nursery, but take trees 
from the woods and swamps, we may meet the difficulty either 
by removing them in the winter with large masses of frozen 
earth, or by cutting clean around the trees we intend to remove 
two or three years before transplanting them, cutting off the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 4y3 

horizontal roots at such a distance as may seem judicious, and, 
if we find but few of these, proceed farther and open the trench, 
so that the dov/nward roots may be partially or wholly cut off. 
Repeat and perfect the operation in the following year or years, 
and, if it has been skillfully performed, your tree may be re- 
moved without difficulty in the fall or spring of the third or 
fourth year. 

If the subsoil be such that you know the roots do not go far 
down, as is common in swamp trees, the root-cutting may be 
effected by a single deep cut with a spade around the tree as 
directed for root-pruning, page 255. 

In preparing trees for transplanting by cutting round them, 
or in their actual removal, it will be found a good general rule 
to make the diameter of the ball of earth in the proportion of 
one foot to one inch diameter in the stem of the tree at a foot 
above the collar. 

In removing trees, other than evergreens, from the woods, it 
is of great practical importance to prune them closely at the 
time of transplanting, cutting away from their heads from one 
third to one half the weight, carefully shortening and opening 
them. All the climbing shrubs so transfeiTcd will be benefit- 
ed by being cut down to the ground, so that the growth of the 
plant may be entirely new. The same is true of most varieties 
of bush shrubs, particularly the Azaleas, Wild Roses, and the 
Laurel (Kalmia), which, though an evergreen, is in this respect 
an exception to its class. 

This process is not to be rigidly applied to those plants 
which we select for the sake of their stems already formed, but 
it will be found good for most kinds and individuals from the 
woods, and veiy often, also, nurseiy plants, particularly if they 
have been over-forced, or are transplanted when in leaf and 
wilt upon your hands, or from any cause are weakened before 
being reset. It also relieves from the necessity of seeking for 
handsome plants, as they will grow natmrally, and therefore 
prettil}', when, having sufficient room, they grow anew. 

Evergreens appear to suffer and exhaust with the winter. 
Early spring is the season of their peculiar weakness, and if 
removed carelessly or harshly then, there is little hope of them. 



494 AMERICAN HOME GAR! EN, 

They should, therefore, always either be removed in the winter, 
with the frozen earth about them, or be so prepared as that 
their fibres will hold and carry with them sufficient earth to se- 
cure success. It will also be found better, in general, to defer 
their removal until late in spring, say to the last of April or 
May, and sometimes even to June, or still later. 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN 495 



CHAPTER XXn. 

Brief Notes on Farm Crops, with Table of Quantities of Seed required per 
Acre. — Crop estimated by its Money Value, and by its Capacity to support 
Animal Life. — Table of average Product of various Farm Crops, and of 
their chemical Constituents. — Remarks explanatory of the Table. 

BRIEF NOTES ON FARM CROPS. 
QUANTITY OF SEED. 

The quantity of seed which it may be desirable or expedient 
to sow upon an acre varies materially with the particular kind, 
the state of the land, or the period of the season at which it is 
sown. The relative size of the seeds, say the nmnber they 
will count to the peck, with the mode of plant-growth, as 
branching or otherwise, allowing a little for increased risk of 
loss in small seeds, generally determines the first point. 

Of the gi'ains, buckwheat is usually sown thinnest, and 
needs to be varied only as on poor or rich land ; but, contrary 
to the general rule with other grain, it should be sown thicker 
on rich land than poor, for the reason that it will otherwise 
branch considerably, and be difficult to cradle without loss ; 
while, being more thinly sown on poor land, it will still yield 
as much as the soil is capable of producing. Winter grain 
sown early, or at least seasonably, may be sown thinner on 
rich land than on poor, because on the former it will grow and 
branch vigorously, and it is plain that one bushel of seed, giv- 
ing two ears from a plant, is equal to two bushels giving only 
one ear ; but on poor land the plant will not branch much, and 
it is therefore desirable to increase somewhat the quantity of 
seed sown. Very late-sown winter grain, and all spring-sown 
grains, often lack opportunity to branch and strengthen before 
they are driven up to seed by the prompt warmth of the open- 
ing spring, and on this accomit they should be sown more 
thickly than might otherwise be necessary, due allowance, 
however, being still made for the different condition of the 
land on which they may be sown. 



496 AMERH'AN IIOMK (JAliDKN. 

In rospoct, to f^.'iHHos, tlicn; in nn ii(lvantaf];c in thick how- 
in^;; lliis is not, loiind in a, materially increased burden of 
fr^y.iHH in fjivonihh! ciffMnnstanccH, l)nt in tlic; promptitude! witli 
wliicli tli(! yoini^ [)l;uits j)r(!occupy the; wliolc ^ronn<l and pre- 
vent the f^rowth of weeds, whicli, in thin Howinff, would be apt 
to dispute possession. In this view of the matter, the fact 
that liJilf the y<)un<r f^rass-plants are afterward smothered by 
thos(! which ta,l<(; tin; lead in ^I'owth is entirely unimportant. 

From what has been said above, the following table will bo 
understood as embodying suggestions rather than rules in rcf- 
orenco to this subject. For maimer of sowing, see page 82. 

For seeding down grass-plot or lawn, a, mixtun; of grass 
seeds should Im; us(mI, say ecjual parts by weight of Red-top and 
Blue Grass, adding White Clover in the proj)ortion of one sixth 
of the wholes and half as much Sweet Vernal (irass as Clover. 
If th(' land be wet, Timothy may be sul)stituted lor the IJluo 
(jrass in part or wholly. IMio grass upon a plot or lawn 
should n(!ver be suflered to go to seed, but should be regularly 
and (closely mowed when from four to six inches high, or even 
while still shorter. 

TABI.K OK OI^ANTITIKS OK RKl'^DH, ETC., REQUIRED TO SOW OR 
1'1-ANT AN ACRE. 

Corn |iliin((Ml in hills 1 to 1 i pks. per acre. 

" (irilKMllnr fodder 4 to G " " 

" sown hrofidciist 8 to 12 " " 

Wlieivt Hown broiulcnsl 4 to 8 " " 

llyo " " 4 to 8 " " 

Hnrlry " " (! to 10 " " 

OiilH " " 8 to 12 " ♦' 

Bitckwhcni sown hrondciist 3 to (> " " 

Pons drilled 4 to (\ " " 

" In-oiulcast 12 to IfJ " " 

Biwh BcaiiH (IrilhMl 4 lo " " 

" broiidcast, iCso sown nt all 10 to 12 " " 

lliee drilled 8 to 10 " " 

Millet broadeast .'Mo 5 " " 

Jied Clover alone 10 to 20 lbs. " 

with Timothy 8 to 12 " " 

Titnolby alone 12 to 20 (jrt.s. " 

with lied Clover 8 to 10 " " 

lied-to]) alone 12 to 20 " " 



AMERICAN HOMli GARDEN, 497 

Kcd-top with Itoil Clover H to 10 fjrts. per acre. 

Blue Grass , „ . , . , 

jj ^^ ( for Kpfcial purposes or particular 

rJ , t r^ { loealitics 10 to 25 lbs. " 

Orchard Urass ' 

Wliite Clover to be added to either of the above... 2 to 4 " " 

" " if for any reason sown alone i to G " " 

Broom Com drilled 4 to pks. " 

Flax drilled 4 to « " 

I'otiifoes, varying very much, as being in hills or) <i \ \ k 

drills, small or iar^o, cut or uncut. See p. 1 71 . ) ^" " ^ ''"''''• 

Iluta Bai^a drilled or broadcast ) , , , , „ ,, 

rr. • 1 -11 I 1 1 . 1 to I i lbs. " 

Common rurmiis drilled or broadcast ) 

Beets drilled 2 to 4 " *' 

Carrots drilled lito 2 " " 

Parsneps " 2 to 4 " " 

Onions " 3 to 5 " " 

Cabbages: i lb. of seed, if thinly sown, and escaping the fly, will yield an 

abundance of plants for one acre. 

ESTIMATE OF CROP. 

Crop, or that return for our outlay of manuro, and 8ced, and 
laW, which '\h derived from hind, may be CHtimated either by 
its money value or by itH capacity to supply the wants of ani- 
mal life. If estimated by the former, which always depends 
on the relation of supply and demand, it is manifest that it 
will be liable to fluctuation from a great variety of causes : the 
variations of seasons, difference of localities, failure or super- 
abundance of the same crop, or any similar class of crops, in 
other sections or countries, &c. Any of these may so iiff<;ct 
this relation that a rich crop will give but a poor return in 
money, or that a very moderate crop may prove extremely 
profitable ; the very abundance of the yield in tbe former case, 
whether from natural or artificial causes, rendering tlie prorliif;t 
almost valueless, when the extra la?K)r of gathering and mar- 
keting the excess is taken into account. 

In general, j-Kjrishable products, as fruits and vegebibles for 
consumption in the current season, are most promptly and 
largely affected by this cause ; but, in a degree, grain, and the 
various dry products that admit of being kept, obey the same 
immutable law, and fluctuate, often to the disappointment of 
the farmer's hopes or the ruin of the miscalculating speculator. 

The lesser or greater distance from market also affects this 



498 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

estimate. It may be very profitable to raise carrots, or egg- 
plants, or celery near large cities where there is a daily de- 
mand for them, while the expense of their transportation from 
a distance, with the attendant risks, would reduce them to the 
ordinary standard of farm crops. 

A difference of latitude of even less than one degree may 
occasion an entirely opposite result from the same crop in the 
same season. Early peas, or potatoes, or fruits, raised thirty 
or more miles south of a given market, securing the highest 
price, because maturing at the opening of the season ; while 
those raised at an equal distance to the north, or such crops 
of late kinds raised at the South, obtain the lowest price, be- 
cause coming in when the market is glutted with similar 
products from more favorable localities. 

The mere money estimate, moreover, may or may not be at 
all dependent on any intrinsic capacity in the product to sup- 
port animal life ; even things that are almost utterly destitute 
of this may become largely profitable, as coffee, from the fact 
that it furnishes a pleasant beverage ; or as tobacco, which, 
in its various forms, ministers chiefly, if not entirely, to a vi- 
tiated taste. 

If the estimate be formed upon the basis of the capacity of 
the crop to sustain animal life, which really would seem to af- 
ford some fixed principles as criteria of its intrinsic value, one 
might suppose that with a little experience in the cultivation 
of a pai-ticular soil, with the gathering and feeding out of its 
crops, and a little observation of the climate in which we live, 
it might be safely and pretty accurately made. But not only 
does the adaptation or non-adaptation of soil and general climate 
to particular crops modify this estimate of it, but also the char- 
acter and changes of particular seasons whose current climate 
may be favorable or unfavorable ; thus- hay the growth of a 
moist, warm, rapid season, is comparatively poor — in common 
phrase, it " does not feed out so well" as that which is raised 
in a drier and less growthy spring. It is also affected by the 
com'se of cropping pursued and the character of the manures 
applied to the land. All vegetable products show by analysis 
chemical differences in various lots of the same kinds of crop, 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 499 

which may arise either from the absence of one or more ele- 
ments from the soil, necessitating the appropriation of others 
as substitutes, or from the simple excess or deficiency of a given 
ingredient in such soil inducing a corresponding excess or de- 
ficiency in its appropriation by the growing crop. 

In order to ascertain coiTectly the comparative value of va- 
rious crops for supplying the wants of animal life, we need, in 
addition to chemical analyses, carefully-perfonned and repeated 
experiments in feeding with the products, noting their effects 
upon health, with temperature, age of animals, and other cir- 
cumstances. No knowledge of constituents, however perfect, 
will sufiice, for these, even when rich, often become of little 
use from lack of adaptation in the form in which they ai^e pre- 
sented. Thus dried tea and cabbage leaves are chemically al- 
most as rich in protein compounds as beef, but could hardly be 
made to supply its place. The corn-stalks from an acre con- 
tain generally more food than the corn, but in a form not well 
adapted to consumption, even by cattle, and on this account 
should always be cut up short and steamed for feeding. 

Such experiments as those above referred to should of course 
include the cost of production in a given locality or climate, 
for it is plain that a crop may be so costly in its production, 
owing to climate or other causes, that it would become the part 
of wisdom to prefer another, though much lower in the scale of 
gross value, on account of its higher nett results. Li Ncav York 
Sugar Beets would pay better than Sugar-cane. 

Though we have by no means full and reliable information 
upon all the points involved in this matter, yet, from the vari- 
ous experiments and analyses which have been recorded, it is 
possible to form such a judgment in the case as may be useful. 
We may approximate to a satisfactory estimate of the actual 
and relative value of any ordinary crop, on the whole, in the 
particular soil and climate in which we labor, a very bi'ief 
experience supplying us with the local data necessai-y to an 
intelligent application of the tests which the appended table 
of products and their constituents fui'nishes. 



500 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



Table of Quantities and Chemical Composition of variods Crops, 
OF Constituents, as to furnish Data for cal- 



Corn 

Corn-stalks 

Wheat 

Wheat Straw 

Rye 

Rye Straw. .. 

Barley 

Barley Straw. 

Oats 

Oat Straw . . . 
Buckwheat . . 

Peas 

Bnsh Beans. . 

Rice 

Millet 

Clover Hay. . 
Meadow Hay. 

Potatoes 

Ruta Baga. . . 

Common "| 

Turnips ) 

Beets 

Carrots 

Parsneps . . . . 
Cabbages 

without the 

stalks 



Division 1. 



Division 2. 



Amount of product per 
acre. 



30 bush., at 53 lbs. 



20 bush., at 60 lbs. 



20 bush., at 53 lbs. 



30 bush., at 48 lbs 



40 bush., at 32 lbs, 



25 bush., at 48 lbs. 
20 " at 63 " 
20 " at CO " 
25 " at 70 " 
50 " at 50 " 
2 tons. 
IV " 
200 bush., at 60 lbs, 
10 tons. 

10 " 

10 " 
10 " 
10 " 

20 " 



1,740 
2,500 
1,200 
2,400 
1,120 



Hi ©151 
12 @15 
10 ©17 
12 @15 
12 @15i 
3,000 12 @15 
1,440 14 @151 
1,500 12 ©15 



1,280 
2,000 
l,20o' 
1,200 



9 ©16 



12 ©10 
12 ©15 

],20o'll ©20 
1,750 [l5 ©IS 
2,500 
4,000 
3,000 
12,000 



12 ©14 
12 ©14 
68 ©SO 
20,000'80 ®S7 



20,000 

20,000 
20,000 
20,000 

40,000! 



85 ©03 



80 ©90 



S3 ©93 



217i 
312i 
150 
300 
140 
375 
180 
1871 
160 
250 
ISO 
150 
180 
2G21 
3121 
500 
375 
9,000 
17,000 

1S,000 

17,000 

17,000 
15,300 



90 36,000 



Division 3. 



4 ©15 
25 ©40 
12 ©16 



5 ©10 
40 ©50 
8 ©15 



Vegetable fibre. 



3 ©20 
40 ©45 
14 ©27 
3J@101 
61 ©10 
3i© 5 



2 ©10 



12i 
331 

12} 
50 

81 
45 
121 
50 
20 
45 
20 

7r 

8 

4 
20 
25 
30 

3 (?) 

3 (?) 

3 (?) 



29-10(?) 580 



.5 ^ 



2171 

833} 

150 

1200 

95i 

1350 

180 

750 

256 

900 

240 

90 

96 

70 

500 

1000 

900 

360 

600 

600 



3 (?) 



600 
1000 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



501 



ESTIMATED AT SUCH RaTES OF PRODUCT PER AcRE, AND SUCH PERCENTAGES 
CULATING THEIR ACTUAL AND RELATIVE VALUES. 



Material foe Respieation and Fattening. 


Material for Muscle 
OB lean Flesh. 


AIaterial foe Bone. 


Division 4. 


Division 5. 


Division 6. 


Division 7. 


Oily Matter. 


Carbonaceous elements 
other than oily matter, 
comprising sugar, hon- 
ey, starch, dextrine, or 
gum, &c. 


Nitrogenous elements 
known as " Protein 
compounds," compris- 
ing gluten, casein, al- 
bumen, legumin, ave- 
nin, &c. 


Saline or inorganic ele- 
ments, comprising earths, 
alkalies, and metals, us- 
ually or always combined 
with acids. 


J = 
s| . 

> 




•j.H a. 


Variations in percent- 
age of carbonaceous 
elements otlier tliau 
oily in divers analy- 


Pi 


Total weight of carbon- 
aceous elements other 
than oily In product 
per acre in pounds. 


-ESS 
|?-| 

■"£__ ^ 

> 


if 

•§ * ° 


Total weight of nitro- 
genous or " Protein 
compounds" in prod- 
uct per acre in lbs. 


Variations in percent- 
age of saline or inor- 
ganic elements in di- 
vers analyses. 


|§.l 


Total weight of saline 
or inorganic elements 
in product per acre 
in pounds. 


3 @12 


Ti 


130i 


50®80 


60 


1044 


5 @14 


n 


113 


1 @ 11 


1 


171 


1 ®'U 


1 


25 


50+ 


421 


1066f 


3 ®10 


41 


1121 


4 ® 6 


6 


150 


2 @ 4 


n 


30 


55@75 


58 


696 


10 @16 


121 


150 


1.2 ® 2.3 


2 


24 


i@U 


1 


24 




25 


600 




11 


36 


31® 15 


10 


240 


2 @ 3J 


2^ 


28 


60®78 


63 


7051 


10 @15 


121 


140 


1.03 ®1.04 


1 


Hi 




f 


15 




37i 


1125 




11 


45 


2 ® 31 


3 


90 


2 ® 21^ 


2 


2SJ 


55®68 


60 


864 


10@14 


10 


144 


3 ® 18 


3 


431 


U 


7t 




31(?) 


465 




11 


221 


4 ® 61 


41 


671 


3 @ 6i|5 


64 


40@70 


45 


576 


13 ©191 


14 


1791 


21® 4 


31 


44i 




i 


10 




35 


700 




1 


20 


5® 71 


6 


120 




> 


c 


50@65 
50@62 


40 


588 


10 ®16 
16 @20 


121 


150 




3 


36 


2i@3 


2i 


30 


50 


000 


£5 


300 


2i® 3 


21 


30 


2 @ 3 


2i 


30 


30@50 


43 


516 


19 @38 


£8 


336 


3 ® 41 


31 


42 


i®2i 


i(?) 


8i 


T6®86 


75 


13121 


3}@ 6i 


41 


781 


1® 1 


1 


171 




31 


121 




45 


1125 


10}(?) 


181 (?) 


462 J 




3i(?) 
10 


871 


3 ® 4 


140 




40 


1600 


9 


300 


5 ® 10 


400 


2 @ 5 


3 


90 




40 


1200 




7 


210 


11® 51 


71 


225 


1-12® i 


i 


30 


10@20 


18 


2160 


i® 2i n 


270 


1 ® 2 


U 


180 




(?) 


(?) 




10 


2000 




1 


200 


1® 11 


1 


200 




(?) 


(?) 




5 


1000 




1 


100 


1 ® 21 


u 


300 




1-10 


20 
50 




9 
8i 


1800 
1650 




2 
2 


400 
400 




1 

u 


2(10 
300 


i®2.5 


11® 21 




(?) 


(?) 




13i 


2700 




2 


400 


1 ® 4 


3 


600 




1-10(?) 


40 




62-5 


2550 




11 


600 




- 


200 













502 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

This Table has been prepared with considerable care and la- 
bor, but I have not thought it worth while to name the authori- 
ties consulted and compared ; they include most of the French, 
German, English, and American chemists, whose various anal- 
yses of farm products constitute the active capital of writers 
and speculators upon the subjects to which they relate. 

The Table is not assumed — indeed, was not intended to be, 
and could not be made absolutely accurate, but it is believed to 
come so near to the true standard that, with the explanations 
given, no one is likely to be deceived by it ; and the author 
will be happy to receive any suggestions by which it may be 
made more useful, and give them a place in a futm'e edition, 
should such be demanded. 

I have not included in it the recently-introduced Chinese 
Sugar-cane, or Sorghum saccharatum, because that, so far as I 
am advised, no perfect and reliable analysis of it has yet been 
made, nor have statements of its average yield of sufficient ac- 
curacy and extent yet appeared to form the basis of a conclu- 
sion respecting it. From experiments made with it, however, 
in various sections, it seems likely to prove valuable for fodder ; 
and if it should be found impracticable to extend the culture 
of the Sugar-cane sufficiently to meet the growing demand for 
its products, persistent efforts will doubtless be made to devise 
means for the production of sugar from this very juicy crop. 
It may be cultivated in hills or rows, as corn, and. for a fodder 
crop it has the advantage of a small and easily-sown seed. 

The Chinese Potato, or Yam, Dioscorea Battatas, has been 
omitted on account of its sheer worthlessness. 

EXPLANATORY REMARKS. 
Of the particular quantities given in the first division as 
representing the product of an acre, corn may be regarded as 
quite low, and oats, millet, potatoes, cabbages, and the root 
crops as rather high. For the latter I have taken the average 
of the English turnip crop, which, according to Johnston, is 
ten tons per acre, though in common turnips we never ap- 
proach this, and very rarely in Ruta Baga or the other root 
crops. It is seldom, too, that twenty tons of cabbages ai'e 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 503 

raised upon an acre, yet it is quite possible to obtain this quan- 
tity ; but upon the land that would produce it, twice, or even 
thrice the weight of com and stalks named in the table might 
be raised, and harvested at less than half the risk and labor, 
I have purposely made the average of corn and stalks very 
low, because of my entire conviction of the immense superiority 
of the coru crop over all root crops in our climate. The aver- 
age of corn in the table must at least be doubled to make the 
comparison a fair one with the last six articles. I have en- 
deavored so to arrange the percentages adopted that any one 
can with ease calculate the value of a larger or smaller product 
per acre of any crop given. 

Divisions 2 and 3, Water and Vegetable Fibre, represent 
constituents of the crop which in ordinary cases simply add to 
its bulk. As vehicles of food, or mingled with it, their mere 
bulk aids digestion, and thereby promotes health, while they 
may also, in extreme cases, become, to a certain extent, available 
as nutriment. 

Divisions 4, 5, 6, and 7 (omitting the silica in the latter) 
contain the materials by which, in combination with water, all 
animal bodies ai-e framed, covered with muscle and fat, sup- 
ported in growth, their waste resupplied, and wannth and 
vigor given to them. The aggregate of the items in these col- 
umns indicates the true value of any crop we raise. Milk, 
which is the only complete and perfect animal food, contains 
them all (with the omission noted), mixed with more or less of 
water, and in proportions analogous to those of the general 
crops in our table, the wants of the animal economy requiring 
larger supplies for respiration and fattening than for muscle 
and bone. No one of them, however, could be dispensed with 
or ignored. With No. 7 the bones might be formed, and by 
the aid of No. 6 be bound in then* places and work, as puppets 
are worked with cords, but must remain angular, and cold, and 
of themselves motionless, unless the supplies from Nos. 4 and 
5 lay a lining of soft cellulose matter beneath the skin, round 
the general outlmes of the limbs and body, lubricate the joints, 
and feed with appropriate fuel the vital furnace in the lungs. 

The valuations in the percentages of the several constituents 



504 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

given by the different chemical authorities, as shown in the 
table, are very striking. 

Those in the water and vegetable fibre, divisions 2 and 3, 
may probably have arisen from actual differences in the dry- 
ness of the articles analyzed, or in the amount of their exterior 
coating, as might very naturally occur in several of the grains. 

Those found in the percentage of oily matter, division 4, may 
perhaps be accounted for by supposing the analysts to have ex- 
perimented upon different varieties of the same crop ; thus, to 
take Corn as an example, it is perfectly comprehensible how 
neither Liebig nor any other chemist could find even five per 
cent, of oily matter in our light flour Corns, which seem to re- 
semble Buckwheat in their character, while Dumas and others 
might readily obtain nine or ten per cent, from a strong north- 
ern yellow Flint Corn. 

This division properly belongs with No. 5, the elements in 
both being carbonaceous, but I have given the oily matter a 
separate division, because, as the ready-formed fat in food is 
most easily appropriated, and, Avithal, renders important aid in 
digestion, the amount of this material found in a given crop 
affords a measurable test of its relative value in the fattening 
of animals. 

The differences foimd in the percentages of the other car- 
bonaceous and the nitrogenous elements, divisions 5 and 6, 
may be due, in part, to the same cause as those of the oily 
matter, but probably still more to differences of clmracter and 
quality, independent of variety of stock, arising from differ- 
ences in the feeding and culture of the particular crops from 
which the specimens were derived. The manure from a barn- 
yard that is very thoroughly leached into the neighboring 
brook will not have much material to give stamina and rich- 
ness to the crop to which it is applied ; and if, in addition to 
this, the season's culture be slighted, a crop relatively rich in 
vegetable fibre, and poor in the more important constituents, 
may be reasonably expected. 

The variations in the percentages of saline or inorganic el- 
ements, division 7, may be traced to the same or analogous 
causes. It is well settled that plants, like animals, feed not 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 505 

always upon that wliich is most desirable and proper, but upon 
what can be had in their season of need.' If, therefore, the 
rains have carried off the elements of this and the two preced- 
ing divisions from the barn-yard, and they have been previous- 
ly largely cropped out of the soil and sold off without return 
to the land, no grand and heavy crop can be expected. 

Under the general terms saline or inorganic elements are 
included, in very various proportions. Silica or Flint, Lime, 
Magnesia, Alumina, Potash, Soda, metallic Oxides, Phospho- 
ric and Sulphuric Acids, Chlorine, and a few other constitu- 
ents ; and, though their aggregates, as shown in this division, 
are small as compared with those of Nos. 5 and 6, yet they 
are, more or less of them, essential to every crop, and can not 
1)6 taken by the plant from the atmosphere, whence much of 
the material for the others may probably be derived. Hence 
this division becomes of special importance, showing as it does 
the total amount of the privation which land sustains by the 
loss of these elements in a given crop. 

By far the greater portion of these aggregates, however, are 
derived from about one half of the elements named above. Of 
the 24 lbs. of inorganic matter given in the table as obtained 
from the product of an acre of wheat, about 8^ lbs. may be Sil- 
ica, 2 lbs. Lime, 2 lbs. Magnesia, 4j lbs. Potash, and 5 lbs. 
Soda ; and of the 240 lbs. yielded by the straw, about 189 lbs. 
may be reckoned as Silica, 16 lbs. Lime, 2 lbs. Magnesia, 1^ 
lbs. Potash, and 2 lbs. Soda, with some 10 lbs. Phosphoric 
Acid ; the small remaining balance in both being composed 
of minute portions of the other elements. The large predom- 
inance of silica and lime is a remarkable feature in this divi- 
sion, and may illustrate the natm-al law by which supply and 
demand are regulated in the vegetable and animal kingdoms. 
Without the silica, neither corn, grain, nor grass would stand 
upright to maturity ; it forms the outer coating and strength- 
ener of the stem of these and certain other plants, and may, 
without impropriety, be said to fm-nish to them the bones of 
vegetable gi'owth. The lime is equally essential to the forma- 
tion and strength of animal bones, of which it constitutes so 
large a part. Extraordinary means are sometimes used to 

Y 



506 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

supply the lack of it vfhen the bones are in the forming state ; 
thus the peasant mothers of Germany are said to give lime- 
water to their young children ; and when, in raising calves 
by hand, milk is economized by the use of hay-tea, &c., it is a 
custom, which I think is immemorial, to make up the great 
defect of the infusion by giving them chalk to lick, with which 
they instinctively supply the necessities of the animal econ- 
omy. From the multiplicity of these saline or inorganic con- 
stituents of vegetables and their importance, although many 
are minute in quantity, it is apparent that very light applica- 
tions of such manures as are rich in these elements may be of 
essential service to the crop. 

A glance at the table shows that hay, and stalks, and 
straw contain more of saline or inorganic matters than is 
found in the grains, and the same is true of the vines of peas, 
potatoes, &c., which are omitted; to preserve all these with 
care, and return them, with suitable additions, to the soil, 
may therefore be regarded as one of the first duties of the in- 
telligent cultivator. 

Where, as in the case of tobacco, almost the whole product 
is of necessity sent away, the soil must be speedily exhausted, 
unless the various elements contained in the crop are replaced 
by importation, or by taxing other crops for a supply ; but, in 
reference to ordinary farm soils and crops, the case is some- 
what different. The elements contained in the various crops 
above enumerated may all be replaced, and the general condi- 
tion of the farm progressively improved by the accumulations 
of a well-managed barn-yard, with the use of ashes, gypsum, 
marl, and swamp-muck treated with lime, where these are ob- 
tainable ; but especially may this be effected by the frequent 
and regular use of clover as green manure ; this, with the ap- 
plication of gypsum and occasional dressings of lime, will be 
found the cheapest and easiest known mode of resupplying the 
draughts made by the various crops, and sustaining and im- 
proving the strength and productiveness of the soil. 



ADDENDUM. 

Forcing Vegetables and Fruits. — Training Fruit-trees, 

FORCING AND TRAINING, 
Forcing common garden vegetables and forcing or training 
ordinary fruit-trees are modes of culture not likely to be very 
generally adopted in American home gardens ; but, inasmuch 
as they may occasionally be fancied or found desirable, the fol- 
lowing brief account of their objects and modes is introduced 
here as an addendum to the more valuable and important proc- 
esses described in the body of the book. 

FORCING. 

Forcing is the general term descriptive of the various proc- 
esses for raising vegetables, fruits, or flowers out of their natu- 
ral or ordinary seasons or climates, by means of carefully-ap- 
plied artificial heat under glass, whether in hot bed, or pit, or 
grapery, or orchard-house, or green-house, or dwelling. 

Among gardeners, success in forcing is an object of ambition, 
and its honors are worn with a good deal of professional pride. 
Some affect to have peculiar modes of practice, which they hide 
carefully from others, but which are often mere worthless con- 
ceits. 

It will be apparent to any observant mind that crops which 
in ordinary culture bear without injury the common vicissi- 
tudes of climate in the open air may easily endm-e the lighter 
and less frequent changes to which they are subjected in house 
or frame culture, unless a most unnatural system is pursued, 
or great carelessness displayed in their treatment. 

The beau ideal of forcing is to create artificially a climate so 
perfectly resembling that which is natural and congenial to the 
plants forced as to induce fair vigorous growth and fruiting un- 
der a system of treatment not differing materially in other re- 



508 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

spects from high out-door culture. To effect this the chief thing 
is to give incessant care to the degree of temperature and moist- 
ure which the crop may require, and so to limit the quantity 
of fruit permitted to set as to keep it always somewhat below 
the bearing capacity of the tree, of which every gardener is 
supposed to be capable of judging at a glance, and every culti- 
vator may learn to judge by a few careful experiments in fruit- 
ing. He can scarcely err injuriously except on one side. If 
he leave an excess of fruit upon the tree, the whole crop may 
be injured or destroyed, but if he reduce the amount, even much 
below the natural or necessary line, the remaining fruit will be 
certainly and perhaps greatly improved, and may very possibly 
more than make up in its aggregate weight for the excessive 
thinning. 

Some vegetable plants are forced for use in winter by a 
process of simple self-exhaustion. Their strong roots being 
transferred in the fall to a cellar, or hot-bed frame, or heated 
pit, or green-house, yield a limited crop under the stimulus of 
the Avarmth thus furnished ; this being obtained, the roots thus 
taxed are either thrown away or set out again in the spring to 
regain their ordinary strength. Sea-kale, Asparagus, Pie- 
plant, Succory, etc., etc., are thus treated where it is deemed 
worth while. 

The more common vegetables, as Lettuces, Radishes, and cer- 
tain small matters for salads, require in their forced production 
in hot-bed frames but little if any more or different care, though 
longer continued, than is necessary for raising early hot-bed 
plants of various vegetables for setting out. See page 30. 

Cucumbers and melons are often raised in unfavorable local- 
ities by a system of half forcing sometimes called " ridging." 
For this purpose a pit or trench of any desired length, about 
three feet wide and two feet deep, is dug at the close of spring, 
and filled Avith heating manure in the manner of making hot 
bed (see page 30), the manure being covered twelve or fifteen 
inches deep with surface earth well enriched with old garden 
compost and chopped half-rotted sod, adding sand or road-wash 
if the soil be heavy. 

Potted plants, previously prepared in hot bed, are set out 



AMEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 509 

carefully along the centre of this ridge, in hills from four to six 
feet apart. Set a hand-glass over each hill ; give air and cul- 
tui-e as needed until the vines begin to run freely, then raise 
the hand-glasses upon bricks or blocks, that they may pass un- 
der ; nip or stop them at about t^Y0 feet from the stem, that 
they may branch and blossom compactly ; and when the full 
summer is upon them remove the hand-glasses entirely, and 
give them ordinary but careful culture until the crop perfects. 

The plants for ridging or forcing, both of cucumbers and 
melons, are in general carefully raised from old seed, that 
the vine-growth may be moderate ; or they are produced by 
cuttings, particularly if new seed has been sown. The cut- 
tings are made in the ordinary manner (see page 438), and 
being set two or three in a pot, and placed in the hot bed Avith 
slight shade, will root in a week or so, and soon furnish strong 
compact growing plants, which will also, if well raised, be 
more hardy than those direct from seed, and less liable to 
" damp off," as the stem-rotting of succulent plants in a cool 
moist climate is called. 

In those climates which discourage or forbid their out-door 
cultivation, they are often forced under glass, in hot bed or pit, 
throughout their growth and fruiting, requiring peculiar and 
extraordinary care in the process. 

With this view the hot bed is made as directed page 30, but 
with ten or twelve inches' depth of earth, which should consist 
of thoroughly-prepared garden compost (page 63), to which an 
equal quantity of well-chopped and half-rotted loamy sod is 
added. The seeds are planted, or the potted plants set out, 
just under the centre of each sash ; and at the appearance of 
the third leaf, if they are seedlings, only the two or three best 
plants are left in each hill ; the surrounding vacant space, if 
such use of it is found desirable, can be temporarily occupied 
by pots, in Avhich any kinds of early plants may be raised, to 
be taken away as fast as the growth from the central hill de- 
mands the room. 

The most assiduous daily attention is required, to give air 
and tepid water as may be found needful, taking especial cai'e 
to furnish both regularly but moderately, according to the va- 



510 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

rying condition of the weather and the consequent necessities 
of the plants. 

Hill them slightly as they grow, and apply light dressings 
of liquid manure from time to time to the hills and around 
them, but in these and the ordinary waterings avoid much wet- 
ting upon the stems or leaves of the plants. 

As the vines extend it will become necessary to nip their 
points for the purpose of thickening the bearing growth, caus- 
ina: them to branch from near the root, and also afterwai-d to 
" stop" them when they reach the sides of the frame, and, 
again, to prevent their becoming over-thickened by their young 
side branches, which must be kept thinned out when the fruit 
is forming or in growth ; the number of fruit upon each plant 
must also be limited if you desire to have them fine ; and 
when as many as you wish to have are set, nip all subsequent 
blossoms before they open. 

The general temperature of the hot bed, or pit, should range 
from 60 to 80 degrees, and this range be continued as uniform- 
ly as possible. In order to secure this object, in addition to 
the daily care in airing, etc., it may be found necessary to 
" line the bed," that is, when the heat of the bed itself de- 
clines, to bank fresh heating manure to the thickness of one 
or two feet all around it in the same careful manner as the 
hot bed was built at first, repeating this operation time after 
time if found necessary, cutting away and removing all the old 
manure from the outside of the frame so as to bring the new 
warmth as nearly as possible into contact with the body of the 
bed which it surrounds ; if thought needful, this lining may 
be raised above the level of the bed so as to reach nearly to 
the upper edge of the frame, with a slope to throw the water 
away from it in rainy weather. 

When raised in a " cucumber pit," heated either with ma- 
nure, or hot water, or steam, these vegetable fruits are not un- 
frequently trained upon trellises, being carefully and pretty 
closely pruned, and strictly limited to their proper space, by 
which system some room is gained, and the hanging fruit is 
also ornamental. 

Almost every variety of garden vegetable may be and is 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 511 

produced by forcing where the demands of luxury render the 
operation profitable ; but few persons will be likely to attempt 
to force these in a plain " home garden." 

Fruits are variously forced, either in the green-house or in 
houses specially appropriated to them. For strawberries, steep 
single-pitch, narrow, temporary " strawberry houses" are often 
made with the glass reaching nearly to the ground. From a 
furnace sunk a sufficient depth at one end, a single line of 
stove-pipe or small brick flue, slightly raised, runs along the 
middle of the floor. The staging is so constructed as to cover 
this, and bring the plants within a foot or less of the glass 
from top to bottom, the whole looking like a covered strawbeiTy 
bed upon a steep slope. 

Grapes are more commonly than other fruits forced in the 
green-house ; they are, however, more successfully forced by 
themselves in a grapery, though strawberries in pots or other- 
wise may be conveniently forced with them? Peaches are also 
generally forced alone in " peach houses," and these, with some 
other varieties, are occasionally forced together in what we have 
called "orchard houses." For this pm-pose they are some- 
times, though rarely, planted in the orchard house, as ordinary 
dwarf or low-stemmed trees, but generally trained upon upright 
trellises by the walls of the house, or inclined or curved ones 
in the body of it, and sometimes are cultivated as extra dwarf 
trees in pots, or tubs, or boxes. 

Fruits so forced require, even more than vegetables, extraor- 
dinary and constant care in respect to temperatm-e, moistm'e, 
air, pnining, and fruiting. The preparation of the house bor- 
ders, etc., and the general course of treatment required do not 
differ greatly from the directions for the grapery, page 357. 

Forced vegetables which are raised from seed, etc., are start- 
ed at once in summer heat ; but in forcing fruits we seek to 
make a mimic spring, beginning at a low temperature, say 
35 to 40 degrees, and gradually raising it at the rate of two 
or three degrees a Aveek, until, by the time the fruit has set, it 
has gone up to 60 degrees in the day ; or at this point and on- 
ward it may rise to 70 or 80 degrees if the sunshine carry it 
up ; but in this case free ventilation must be given, and a hu- 



512 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

mid atmosphere produced by watering or syringing, and spe- 
cial care be taken that after such an accession of heat the re- 
cession be not sudden. The night temperature may range 
miiformly al)out ten degrees below that of the day, the state 
of the house being sedulously watched, its slightest variations 
being indicated by a double registering thermometer. 

Besides a very severe system of summer pruning, almost 
entirely suppressing growth, there are in fruit forcing various 
other nice points to be attended to, the detailed minutiae of 
which will be found in works specially devoted to this depart- 
ment of fancy culture, and these scanty general indications are 
all that can be given here. 

The ripening of the larger fruits will generally be effected in 
about five months from the first application of heat. 

TRAINING. 

"Training" is any process by which the young growth of 
trees or shrubs is diverted from its natural course, and made 
to take such directions or assume such forms as the fancy 
of the cultivator may prescribe. Hence the various kinds of 
training are designated as "upright," "horizontal," "fan- 
shaped," " weeping," " coiled," or " winding," etc. For illus- 
trations of the two former see Arbor and Trellis Culture of the 
Grape, p. 349-50. 

Training the larger fruit-trees upon trellises is, in general, 
merely a fancy mode of treating dwarf trees like the weeping 
cone and other peculiar forms, or it is practiced in preparing 
such trees for the ornamentation of path sides, etc. ; but train- 
ing such fruits against walls or other shelters is adopted with 
a view of producing in ungenial climates fruits not otherwise 
producible in them, or to obtain in perfection in unfavorable 
localities or soils certain fine varieties of fruits, which even 
the processes of dwarfing and summer pruning do not enable 
us, under the circumstances, to ripen satisfactorily. It may 
be practiced in either or all its forms so far as time, means, 
and taste permit or prompt. 

Where it is proposed to cultivate "wall fruit," as the prod- 
uct of trees so trained is termed, the borders or holes for the 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



513 



trees are prepared with more or less care and thoroughness, 
somewhat after the mode prescribed for grape borders in house 
culture, page 355. If you desire success, prepare them Avell. 
There is an equity in the matter ; your pay will be according 
to your labor. 



Fig. 308. 



Fig. 309. 





Maiden tree cuf^back and set out for 
fan training. 



Young fan-trained tree with its first year's 
growtli of three shoots. 



The first step in training is to plant a tree of one year's 
growth from the bud, technically called a " maiden tree," 
against a wall or trellis, having first cut it back, if intended 
to be fan-formed, to within one, or two, or three inches of the 
point of junction with the stock. Fig. 308. 

In planting it, let it be set so that the head of the stock 
where it was cut down after budding and the face of the new 
cut made in cutting back the young tree may be toward the 
wall, and the swell of the original bud growth, with its nu- 
merous undeveloped buds, be thro^vn outward to furnish shoots 
to radiate from that point for training if it be cut veiy closely 
back. 

The precise number of buds that are permitted to start the 
first year may vary, but for illustration I have chosen three as 
a sufficient and convenient number (Fig. 309). 

These are to be laid carefully to their proper places as their 
growth proceeds by nailing them by means of small bands of 
cloth or leather placed around them, forming, when nailed, 

Y 2 



514 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN, 



loose loops, through which the shoot runs ; and it will gener- 
ally be found convenient to alternate the sides on which the 
nails are driven, so that the shoot may be strained in any de- 
sired direction. In training immediately upon brick walls, 
small cast nails are used like those which bootmakers call 
"sparrow-bills," but larger; but to avoid the necessity of 
nailing into brick, a frame or trellis, as in open culture, is 
often set between the wall and the tree, upon which the young 
shoots may be tied securely but not tightly to their places by 
strips of bass mat or other material. 

All growth shoots thrown directly forward from the face of 
the tree, and all branching growth from the young shoots that 
are laid into place, must be suppressed as soon as they start, 
and all over-luxuriance or disproportion in the growth of any 
one or more of the shoots of the season must be prevented by 
Avatchful summer pruning. 

In the Avinter pruning these shoots of the season are cut 
back, according to the vigor of their growth, to the length of 
from ten to fifteen inches, more or less, as shown in Fig. 310. 



Fig. 310. 



Fig. 311. 




Young fan-trained tree with its first year's 
growtli cut back at tlie winter pruning. 



Young fan-trained tree with its second 
year's growth, each main shoot having 
thrown out two secondary ones. 



From each of them the next season three shoots, a main 
and two opposite side shoots, may be suffered to grow, as Fig. 
311. These, like the former year's shoots, are to be laid into 
place, summer pruned with the same care, and nailed or tied 



A.MEEICAN HOME GARDEN. 



515 



as above directed ; cut back each of them at the winter prun- 
ing according to the strength of the individual shoot, shorten- 
ing the secondary shoots in general to about half the length 
allowed to the main ones, or cutting them nearly as far back 
as to where the main shoots of the season started, as shown in 
horizontal training, Fig. 315. 

This process is continued from year to year, permitting sec- 
ondary side shoots to branch off from the main ones as the 
spaces between them widen with their extension, until the 
whole surface appropriated to the tree is covered with its 
growth, regularly laid in against the wall, or fence, or trellis, 
in a flat fan form, as Fig. 312. 



Fig. 312. 




A full-sized fan-formed tree. 



a, a. Dotted line showing the point to which a diseased tree 
may be cut back. 



When trained trees have thus filled up their allotted space, 
they must be absolutely limited to their specific boundaries, 
and only so much wood permitted to gi'ow from year to year 
as may be required to fill up the blank spots made by the win- 
ter prmiing. From the very first the trees are to be carefully 



516 



AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 



summer pruned, as directed for dwarf trees, page 255 ; with 
proper attention to this, so that no shoot is suifered to grow 
with disproportionate vigor, it will generally be found suffi- 
cient, while the tree is forming, to cut annually from the 
young shoots at the Avinter pruning about one third or one 
half the length of the season's growth. 

By this course, steadily pursued, the burden of fruit which 
the tree may become capable of bearing will be concentrated 
upon and sometimes seem to cover its whole area as it hangs 
from the numerous fruit branches. 

If it is intended to train the tree horizontally, it may either 
be cut back as above directed for fan training, or may be left 
six or eight inches long from the bud at the setting out, as 
shown in Fig. 313. 



Fig. 313. 



Fig. 314. 




Maiden tree cut back and 
set out for horizontal 
training. 



Young horizontal-trained tree with its first year's gi'owth of 
three shoots shown as cut hack at the winter pruning. 



One upright leader, with not more than two opposite main 
side shoots, may be allowed to start the first year, the latter 
to be trained horizontally, and at the winter pruning each 
must be cut back as shown in Fig. 314 a. 

In the second year these lengthen from the extreme bud of 
each, but are not permitted to form secondary side shoots, 
which, if they put forth, must be nipped throughout the sum- 
mer : two other main side shoots are also formed and ti'ained 



AMERICAN HOME (JARDEN. 



511 



horizontally as they grow. See Fig. 315 a, a. These are all 
shortened at the Avinter pruning, as also shown in Fig. 315, 
each shoot being kept about the length of one year's pruned 
growth behind its predecessor. 

Fig. 315. 




Young horizontal-trained tree with its second year's gi-owth shown as cut back at the 
winter pruning. 6, b, b, b. Spurs with their bunches of blossom buds. 

This process, like that of fan-training, with similar care in 
respect to summer pruning, is continued from year to year un- 
til the tree attains its full size (Fig. 316), after which it is 
simply limited to its appropriate space, and permitted annu- 
ally to renew by its growth the wastage of its winter pruning. 

Under skillful treatment its branches will become studded 
in the fall with "spurs," which are short stiff shoots from 
half an inch to four inches long, ending in bunches of full 
rounded "blossom buds" (Fig. 315 h), the ordinary growth or 
leaf buds being of a more pointed form. Upon these spurs, or 
from buds set immediately upon the branches (Fig. 316), its 
burden of fruit will be annually produced, but special care is 
required in the pruning and general management of trained 
trees to secure regularly upon them a full but not excessive 
annual crop of fruit. 

The directions given above for regulating the growth and 
training of the trees are not to be considered absolute ; the ar- 
rangement may be changed or inverted at the pleasure of the 



518 AMERICAN HOME GARDEN. 

cultivator, the horizontal tree being permitted to form second- 
ary side shoots, and the fan-formed one being limited to main 
shoots and spurs. 

Fig. 316. 



Full-sized horizontal-trained tree covered with fniit buds. 

a. A main shoot cut clean out, and a new one forming. 

b, 6. Dotted lines showing the cutting back of diseased trees. 

Under this non-natural course of treatment trees are more 
than commonly liable to become diseased. Sometimes it is 
necessary, and still oftener expedient, to renew certain por- 
tions of a trained tree by cutting an old main shoot clean out, 
and forming a new one in its place by gradually carrying a 
young shoot from the central radiating point, or from the up- 
right leader, annually shortening and pruning it as in forming 
the tree at first. See Fig. 316 a. 

If a tree indicates general weakness or disease, and ordinary 
means fail to renovate it, cut back the whole growth from one 
third to one half, less or more according to your judgment, as 
indicated by the dotted lines, figm-es 312 a, 316 b. Shorten 
at the same time the side shoots of the remainder ; clear it 
of insects if infested, by the use of some suitable wash (see 
page 284) ; change the surface earth around it, substituting 
fresh sm-face loam and rotted sod, and, if it seem requisite, 
give an extra application of liquid manure occasionally, espe- 



AMERICAN HOME (iARUEN. 519 

cially toward the extremities of its roots ; examine its deep 
roots, and if the disease is caused by their entering a cold or 
poisonous subsoil, cut them off; or, if the case prove inveterate, 
take up the tree, remove the subsoil as extensively as you find 
necessary, pave or concrete the bottom of the hole thus made, 
fill it with good compost, etc., and replant the tree carefully. 



INDEX. 



Page 
Almond, 287; Earth Almond... 360 
Alternating System of Grape 

Culture '. 351 

American Span Layering 440 

Annual Flowers 436 

Annual Flowers, Time of Sow 

ing, &c 455 

Annual Flowers, List of 34 Kinds 455 

Annular Budding , 223 

Aphides on Garden Vegetables. . 99 

" on Fruit-trees 264 

Appendages to the Garden 2G 

Apple Blossom, a perfect or bi- 
sexual Flower 74 

Apples 2 

" Gathering and Wintering 

of 289 

Apples, Selection of fifty Kinds.. 290 

1. Early May 290 

2. " Strawberry 291 

3. " Hai-vest 291 

4. Sweet Bough 292 

5. EedAstrachan 293 

6. Summer Rose 294 

7. Williams's Favorite 294 

8. Summer Pippin 295 

9. Gloucester Cheese 296 

10. American Pearmain 297 

11. Jersey Sweeting 298 

12. Maiden's Blush 298 

13. Porter 299 

14. Gravenstein 800 

15. Hawley 301 

16. Fall Pippin 302 

17. Fameuse 303 

18. Mother 303 

19. Vandervere 304 

20. Dyer 305 

21. Hubbardston Nonsuch 306 

22. Minister 306 

23. Hurlbut 307 

24. Male Carle 308 

25. Chandler 309 



26. Peck's Pleasant 310 

27. Jonathan 310 

28. Rambo 311 

29. Westfield Seek-no-further 312 

30. Broadwell Sweet 312 

31. American Golden Russet . 313 

32. Wagener 314 

33. Rhode Island Greening... 315 

34. Yellow Belle Fleur 315 

35. Danvers Sweet 316 

36. Ortley 317 

37. Baldwin 318 

38. Wine Apple 319 

39. Swaar 319 

40. Red Canada 320 

41. Lady Apple 321 

42. Pryor's Red 321 

43. Northern Spy 322 

44. Wood's Greening 323 

45. Yellow Newtown Pippin.. 323 

46. Ladies' Sweeting 324 

47. Raule's Janet 325 

48. Boston Russet 326 

49. Pottghkeepsie Russet 326 

50. Tewkesbury Winter Blush 327 
Apples, Varieties of, for the East- 
ern and Northern States 328 

Apples for the Middle States 328 

" for the Western States... 329 
" for the Southern and 

Southwestern States 329 

Apple-tree Borers and parent 

Bugs 266 

Apricot, eight Varieties of 330 

Arbor for the Grape-vine 349 

Arrangement of Garden 15 

Arrangement and Distance of 

Fruit-trees in Plot or Orchard 247 

Artemisias 461 

Artichoke, Globe 114 

Jerusalem 115 

Asparagus 115 

Assortment of Garden Seeds for 

a Family Garden 188 



522 



INDEX, 



Page 
Autumnal and Ever - blooming 

Roses, thirty Varieties 480 

Average Product of various) 500 

Farm Crops, Table of j 501 

B. 

Bandages for Buds 220 

Baud Labels 215 

Beans, English 117 

" Bush 117 

" Pole 119 

Bearing Qualities of various 

Fruit-trees 193 

Bedding Seedling Plants of Veg- 
etables 87 

Bedding System of Strawberry 

Culture 426 

Beets 120 

" Forms of. 121 

Bee Worm Ill 

Bell Glass 35 

Bene Plant 124 

Berberry 33 1 

Biennials 436 

" Selection of 12 Kinds.. 459 

Binding Buds 222-3 

" and covering Grafts 238 

Blackberry 332 

Black Knot.... 260 

Blanching 136 

Blind Ditches 20 

Blossoms, perfect, &c 74 

' ' of Strawberries 429 

Borecole 147 

Botanical Peculiarities of Straw- 
berry Blossoms 428 

Box Edging for Paths 16 

Box Wheelbarrow 33 

Branch Cuttings 197 

Brief Notes on Farm Crops 495 

Brine Wash 283 

Brocoli 124 

Brussels Sprovits 125 

Bud Cuttings 196 

Budding, Annular 223 

" Knives 211 

Natin-e of. 218 

" Process of 220 

" Time of 223 

" and grafting flowering 
and ornamental Shrubs and 

Trees 441 

Buds, After-treatment of 224 

Bud Scion and Buds 220 



Page 
Bud Worm and parent Moth .... 268 
Bulbous Roots, Selection of ten 

hardy Kinds 447 

Bulbous Roots, Selection of six 

tender Kinds 451 

Bulbous Root Compost 444 

Bulbs 436 

Bursting of the Bark of Fruit- 
trees 260 

Bush Scythe 53 

" Hook 63 

C. 

Cabbage, Early 126 

" Late 127 

" Worms and parent 

Butterflies 104 

Camellia 468 

Canker Worm and parent Moth 269 

Cardoon 130 

Carrot 130 

" Formsof 131 

Cauliflower 133 

Celeriac 137 

Celery 135 

Chemical Constituents of vari-~l ^^„ 

ous Farm Crops classed, Ta- > ^^, 

bleof ) ^"^ 

Cherries 333 

" Select List of sixteen 

Varieties 334 

1. Purple Guigne 334 

2. Mayduke.... 335 

3. Elton 335 

4. Knight's Early Black 336 

5. Black Heart 336 

0. Black Tartarian 336 

7. Holland Bigarreau 337 

8. Graffion..... 337 

9. Black Eagle 338 

10. Downton 338 

11. Downer's Late 338 

12. Florence 339 

13. Earlv Richmond 339 

14. Carnation 340 

15. Plum-stone Morello 340 

16. Rumsey's Morello 340 

Cherrv Worm or Slug 275 

Chervil 137 

Chinese Layering 440 

" Potato or Yam, Dlosco- 

rea Eattatas 502 

Chinese Sugar - cane, Sorghum 
saccharatum 502 



INDEX. 



523 



Chisel, Pruning 207 

Cistern 31 

Citron 362 

Citron Watermelon 137, 152 

Cives or Chives 137 

Cleaning and scraping Fruit- 
trees 256 

Climbers 437 

' ' Selection of six Kinds of 

annual 458 

Climbing Shrubs, 12 Kinds 483 

Cold Bed 29 

" in Pit 28 

Color of Vegetables 71 

" Fruits 191 

Combination of Vegetable Crops 85 
" of Fruit-trees . 249-251 

" of Strawberries 429 

Compost, Ash G4 

" Bulbous Root 444 

" Flower 444 

" Garden G3 

" Guano 04 

' ' Layer and Cutting 443 

Plant 443 

" Rose 444 

Conservatory or Plant-room 474 

Contents, general 7 

Core Worm and parent Moth.... 270 

Corn 138 

Corn Grubs and parent Bugs 105 

Corn Planter 46 

Corn Salad 139 

Covered and Pipe Drains 21 

Cranberry 341 

Crop, estimated by its Money 

Value 497 

Crop, estimated by its Capacity 

to support Animal Life 498 

Crop Hilling 90 

" Hoeing 92 

" " Time for 93 

" Plowing 91 

" Ridging 90 

" Watering 93 

CroMbar 47 

Cucumber Blossom monoecious... 74 

Cucumber, Varieties, &c 1 39 

" Borer 107 

" Biig 100 

' ' Fly or jumping Beetle 101 

Cultivator 44 

Currants 341 

Currant Worm or Borer 275 



Page 

Cuttings of Fruit-trees 195 

" of flowering and herba- 
ceous Plants 438 

Cutworm 107 

D. 

Dahlias, Modes of increasing 453 

" twenty-one Varieties.... 452 

Dedication 3 

Deterioration, the natural Tend- 
ency to, in Vegetables, how 

stimulated 72 

Dibber 68 

DilKculties met with in raising 

the Strawberry explained 428 

Digging 24 

Dioecious Blossoms 74 

Diseases of Fruit-trees and Fruits 259 

Dock 141 

Double glazing Sashes 474 

Draining 19 

Drawing-knife 208 

Dressing Flowers for Exhibition 466 

Dressing Shears 209 

Dwarfing Stocks 206 

Dwarf Trees, planting 244 

" pruning 255 

E. 

Edging for Paths 16 

Egg-plant 141 

Elements of Plant Life 59 

" Animal Life 59 

Enarching, see Inarching 235 

Endive 142 

Estimates of Crop Values 497 

Ever - blooming and Autumnal 

Roses, thirty Varieties 480 

Evergreens 437 

Evergreen Trees and Shnibs, 14 

Kinds 486 

Evergreen Trees and Shrubs, 

Time and Mode of removing.. 492 
Explanatory Remarks on Table 

of Crops, &c 502 

F. 

Farm Culture of the Strawber- 

ly 427 

Fencing the Garden 17 

Fertilization, Organs of 74 

a. Perfect or bisexual Flower 74 

h. Monoecious Flowers 74 

c. Dioecious Flowers 74 



524 



INDEX. 



Fertilization necessary to Pro- 
duction of the Seed 

Fertilization not absolutely nec- 
essary to the Production of 
Fruit 

Fertilization as related to the In- 
termixture of Kinds 

Fertilization, natural Modes of... 
" artificial Modes of. 

Field Mice 

Fig 

Fig Apple 

Flavor of Fruits, Peculiarities of 

Flower and Seed Scissors 

Flower Compost 

Flower Pots 

Flower Transplanter 

Flowers, hardy and tender 

' Flowers, Shrubs, &c.. Classes of. 
" Modes of 

increasing 

Flowers, Shrubs, &c., Choice of. 

Flowers, Shrubs, Trees, &c., 

blooming at corresponding 

Times, or Interlinking, List of 

Flowers, Transplanting 

" hardy bulbous -rooted, 

10 Kinds 

Flowers, tender, 6 Kinds 

" tuberous, 21 Varieties.. 

Forcing and Training 

" Fruits 

" Vegetables 

Fork, 3 Kinds of. 

Frixit Cellar 

Fruit Crack 

Fruit Gatherer 

Fruiting, doubtful Views respect- 
ing 

Fruiting, healthful natural Tend- 
ency to 

Fruiting, the Law of premature 

o r f r c e d 

Fruiting, how forced 

Fruit-room 

Fruits, Classification of 

" Color of 

" Effect of Soil upon 

" " Climate upon ... 

" " the Stock upon. 

" Flavor of 

' ' Production of new 

" Shape of 

' ' Specific Gravity of 



Fruits, Theory of improving 

76 " transferofN. andS.. 190, 
Fruit-trees, After-cultm'e in Plot 

or Orchard 

76JFruit-trees, Arrangement and) 
Distances, with Tables ) 

77 Fruit-trees, bearing Qualities .... 

78 " Combinations of,) 
78 with Plans, 1, 2 ) 

285 Fruit-trees, Habits of 

343 " Modes of Growth of. 

76 " ornamental 

191 " preparing Holes for 
209 and planting 

444 Fruit-trees, Propagation of 

36 a. By Cuttings 

52 b. By Layers 

445 c. By Seeds 

434 Fruit - trees, selecting Varieties 
of 

437 Fruit-trees, setting out 

435 Fruit-trees, shortening Roots and 
Top 

Fruit-trees, Stocks for budding 
and grafting 



446 
445 

447 
451 
452 
507 
511 
508, 
54| 
26 
259 
211 

256 

257 

257 
258 
26 
189 
191 
189 
190 
219 
191 
194 
191 
192 



G. 

Garden, Diagram of 

" Form, Aspect, and Ar- 
rangement 

Garden Engine 

Garden Frame with Sashes 

Garden House with Frait-room 
and Cellar 

Garden Rakes 

Garden Shovel 

Garden Trowels 

Garlic 

Gathering Apples, Time and Or- 
der of 

Gathering and ripening Pears... 

Gange "Wheel and Rack 

Girdled Trees, how to save 

Gooseberry, three Varieties of . . . 

Gooseberry Worm 

" smaller 

Goose-necked Garden Hoe 

" Cranesbill Hoe.... 

Grafting 

" large Trees by Install- 
ments 

Grafting, Modes of 

a. " Single Bud" 

b. "Side" 



Page 
194 
192 

248 
247 
248 
193 
249 
251 
192 
193 
488 

245 
195 
195 
198 
204 

192 
243 

244 

204 



13 

14 
34 

28 

26 
56 
48 
62 
143 

289 

368 

45 

286 

345 

275 

276 

50 

61 

225 

226 

228 
228 
229 



INDEX. 



525 



Page 

c. "Saddle" 229 

d. "Cleft" 230 

" on large Trees 232 

e. "Crown" 233 

/ "Tongue" 234 

Grafting by Approach, or "In- 
arching" 235 

Grafting, Time for 237 

Grafting Compositions, Nos. 1, 

2,3 ; 239 

Grafting Knife 212 

" Mortar 240 

" Stiletto 213 

" Tool 214 

Grafts, Preparation of 227 

" binding and covering 238 

' ' After-treatment of 240 

" transporting 228 

Grains, various, sowing 49; 

Grape, 13 Varieties of. 347 

" manuring 349 

' ' Modes of Culture 349 

1. Arbor 349 

2. Trellis 350 

3. Stakes 351 

Grape, Spur Sj'stem of pruning 

the 350 

Grape, Alternating System 351 

" Training the 349 

" Summer-pruning the 352 

" Winter-pruning the 354 

Grape House, Culture in 355 

Grajje Scissors 209 

Grape Worms 276 

Grass Edger 54 

Grasses, mixed for Lawn 496 

" sowing 496 

Grass Hook 54 

Grasshopper 103 

Grass Scythe 53 

Green-house 474 

" Plants, &c 437,467 

" Shrubs, 18 Kinds.... 467 

" Plants of smaller 

Growth, 20 Kinds 470 

Green-house Plants, wintering in 

Cellar or a Pit 472 

Green-house Plants, wintering in 

Dwelling-house 473 

Green-house Plants, steaming ... 473 
Green-house Plants, wintering in 

Green-house 474 

Greens, 15 Kinds 143 

Grouting 88 



Page 
Growth of wild Plant and Seed . 67 
Growth of cultivated Plant and 
Seed 67 

H. 

Habit of blossoming of certain 

Fruit-trees 193 

Half Axe 207 

Hammer 207 

Hand Fork 54 

Hand Glasses 34-5 

Hand "Marker" 57 

Hand Seed-sower 46 

Hardy Shrubs, 25 Kinds, with 

Treatment of, &c 477 

Harrowing 22 

H arrows 42-3 

Hatchet 207 

Heart Worm 109 

Heating Apparatus for Green- 
house, &c 475 

Hedges, various Plants for 17 

Height of Stem for Fruit-trees... 241 

Herbs, 18 Kinds 144 

Hilling (Crops) 90 

Hilling Hoe 49 

Hilling System for the Strawberry 425 

Hill Layering Trees, &c 200 

" herbaceous Plants 441 

Hoeing Crops 92 

Hoes (6 Varieties) 49-51 

Hook, Potato 55 

Hop , 146 

Hop Blossom, Fertilizer, |^ Dice- 

" Fertile, j cious 74 

Hop Worm 109 

Horse Radish 146 

Hot Bed 30 

" made in Pit 28 

Hyacinths i 448 

I. 

Ice-house 32 

Imperfect Blossoms of the Straw- 
berry 429 

Implements of common Culture. 38 
" for Budding, Graft- 
ing, Pruning, &c 207 

Index 507 

Insects, Life, Periods of. 94 

" Breathing, Circulation, 

and Digestion of 94 

Insects, Changes of 95 

" Periodical Prevalence of 95 



526 



INDEX. 



Page 
Insects vary in Kind according 

to Climate, Locality, and Crop 95 
Insects, Means of Defense and Of- 
fense against 96 

1. Natural Enemies 96 

2. Changing Sowing Time.... 97 

3. Their Tastes or Distastes .. 97 

4. Means of injuring or de- 

stroying them 97 

5. A Limit to wise Labor in 

Reference to them 98 

Insects injurious to Fruit-trees 

and Fruit 263 

Insects injurious to Vegetables .. 99 

Insects on Green-house Plants... 476 

Intermixture of Vegetables 77 

K. 

Kale or Borecole 147 

Knives for Budding, &c 211 

Knives, various 212 

Kohl Rabi (or Tm-uip Cabbage). 147 

L. 

Labels, Band 215 

" Stake 217 

Labeling and Diagram to be) 215 

attended to ) 251 

Large Trees as Stocks 225 

" Grafting 226 

Layering, Modes of 198 

1. "American Span" 440 

2. "Chinese" 440 

3. "Common" 198 

4. " Hill" (herbaceous) 441 

5. "Hill" (Trees, &c.) 200 

Layer and Cutting Compost 443 

Layers of Shrubs, &c 439 

Layers properly Branch. Cuttings 199 

Layer Stocks for Fruit-trees 203 

Lawn, mixed Grasses for 496 

Leaf Blight 261 

Leaf Mould 442 

Leek 148 

Lemon 362 

Lettuce 148 

Ley Wash 284 

Lime 362 

Line Reel and Line 57 

List of Trees and Shrubs, Peren- 
nials, &c., that correspond in 

their Times of blossoming 446 

Loam 442 



Page 
M. 

Manure Fork 54 

Manure Heap 63 

Manures, Classes of 60 

" Application of 62 

' ' certain, free from Weed 

Seeds 62 

Manures suited to certain Soils.. 61 

" liquid 64 

"■ " how prepared 65 

Manuring and Manures 60 

Manuring Fruit-trees 248 

" the Strawbeny 427 

Marker, Hand 57 

" Horse 42 

Mattock 48 

Means by which the various El- 
ements of the Soil are returned 

to it 59 

Mechanical Preparation of vari- 
ous Soils 18 

Melon, Musk 150 

" Water 152 

Mice, Field 285 

Mildew 261 

Milk the sole perfect Compound 
for Animal Support and 

Growth 503 

Missionary Hoe 51 

Model Trees in Form, &c 368 

Modes of Growth in Fruit-trees . 193 
Moles, Injuries and Benefits of.. 113 

Monoecious Blossoms 74 

Money Estimate of Crop Values 497 

Mulberrj- 357 

Mushrooms 153 

" Spawn for 153 

Musk Melon 150 

Mustard 154 

N. 

Nasturtium 155 

Natiu-al Fertilization 78 

Nectarine 359 

" 8 Varieties of 360 

Nest Worm, Eggs, and parent 

Moths 271 

Net Worm and parent Moth 272 

New Varieties of Vegetables 79 

a. By Selection 80 

b. By Intermixture 80 

c7 By Transfer or foreign Ac- 
climation 81 



INDEX. 



527 



Page 

d. By Disease 81 

e. By Introduction from otlier 

Countries 81 

Notch Worm and parent Moths . 273 
Nuts, 13 Kinds 360 

O. 
Offshoots or Stem-sucker Stocks 203 

Okra 155 

Olive 361 

Onion 156 

" Forms of 157 

" Sets 158 

" Escallions 158 

" Top 158 

" Potato 159 

" Welsh 160 

Orange, Lemon, Lime, Citron, |^ 362 

and Shaddock j 363 

Organs of Fertilization, with their 

Petals 74 

Organs of Fertilization, without 

Petals 75 

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs... 437 

P. 

Palmer Worm and parent Moth 274 

Parsley 160 

Parsley Worm 110 

Parsnep 161 

" Forms of 161 

Pea Bug 101 

Peach 363 

" Classes of 363 

" Decay of. 365 

" Disease of 262 

" Forms of 363 

" Growth and Culture of .... 365 

" 24 Varieties of 366 

Peach Worm, with Chrysalis and 

parent Flies 276 

Pears 367 

" difBcult to select 367 

" Distances for 368 

" Gathering and Ripening .. 368 

" Growth of Roots of 367 

" Model Trees of. 368 

" Pnming 368 

" Soil suitable for 368 

' ' Winter Varieties of 368 

" Selection of forty Varieties 369 

1. Madeline 370 

2. Bloodgood 370 

3. Dearborn's Seedling 371 



Page 

4. Julienne 371 

5. Tyson 372 

6. Rostlezer 372 

7. Summer Franc Real 373 

8. Bartlett 374 

9. Canandaigua 375 

10. Vanilla 376 

11. Stevens's Genesee 377 

12. Dunmore 378 

13. Heathcot 379 

14. Fondante d'Automne 380 

15. Lodge 381 

16. Flemish Beauty 382 

17. Maria Louisa 383 

18. Ananas 384 

19. Louise Bonne de Jersey... 385 

20. Beurre Bosc 386 

21. Urbaniste 387 

22. Petre 388 

23. Seckel 389 

24. Virgalieu (or White Doy- 

enne) 390 

25. Gray Virgalieu (or Gray 

Doyenne) 390 

26. Beurre Diel 391 

27. Duchesse d'Angouleme ... 392 

28. Dix 393 

29. Onondaga 395 

30. Oswego Beurre 396 

31. Beurre' d'Ai-emberg 397 

32. Glout Morceau 398 

33. Passe Colmar 399 

34. Lawrence 400 

35. Columbia 401 

36. Knight's Monarch 402 

37. Chaimiontelle 403 

38. Winter Nelis 404 

39. Winter Bell 404 

40. Easter Beurre 406 

Pear-tree Worm and parent Bee- 
tle 278 

Peas, early 163 

'• late 163 

Peat or Swamp Muck 442 

Peppergrass 166 

Peppers 165 

Perennials .•• 436 

" Selection of 26 Kinds 461 

Perfect or bisexual Blossoms 74 

Pickaxe 47 

Pickles, various 167 

Pie-plant 168 

Pinks, Picotees, Carnations - 464 

Pipe or covered Drains 21 



528 



INDEX. 



Page 

Pit 26 

Plan of Garden 13 

Plant Compost 443 

Planting Fruit-trees 243 

Plant-room or Conservatory 474 

Plowing 21 

" in Crops 91 

" Subsoil 23 

" Trench 23 

Plows, 7 Varieties 38, 42 

Plum, the 407 

" Distances for 407 

" Planting and Pruning 407 

" Qualities of 407 

" Soil suited to 407 

" Varieties of for Drying ... 407 
Plums, Selection of 25 Vai-ietics 407 

1. Ottoman 408 

2. Hudson Gage 408 

3. Peach 409 

4. Duane's Purple 409 

5 Schenectady 410 

6. M'Laughliii 410 

7. Green Gage 410 

8. Lawrence's Favorite ....... 411 

9. Washington 411 

10. Lombard 412 

11. Bleecker's Gage 412 

12. Smith's Orleans 412 

13. Cruger's Scarlet 413 

14. Columbian Gage 414 

15. Jeffei-son 414 

16. Imperial Gage 415 

17. Purple Gage 415 

18. Manning's Long Blue 415 

19. Dominie Dull 416 

20. Catharine 416 

21. Coe's Golden Drop 417 

22. Coe's Late Red 417 

23. Blue Imperatrice 418 

24. Frost Gage 418 

25. Ickworth 419 

Plum Worm (Curculio) with pa- 
rent Bug 278 

Pomegranate 419 

Potato 170 

' ' combined with Pole Beans 171 

" Hook 55 

" Size for Sets of. 171 

Po,tting seedling Vegetables 87 

Preface 5 

Premature Frui i ing 25 7 

Preparation of Scions and Grafts 227 
Preparation of Soils for Garden. 18 



Page 
Preparatory Steps for final Trans- 
planting of seedling Vegeta- 
bles 87 

1. Bedding 87 

2. Potting 87 

3. Grouting 88 

Preparing Holes and planting 

Trees 245 

Prodiiction of new Varieties of 

Vegetables 79 

Propagation of Fruit-trees 195 

" Flowers 437 

" Shrubs 437 

Protectioji of Garden 17 

Pruning, opposite Purposes of, &c. 251 

" dwari'Trees 255 

" ornamental Shrubs, &c. 477 
" and Forming of Fruit 

and Shade Trees 254, 488 

Pruning, "Root" -. 255 

" "Summer" 254 

" "Winter" 252 

" " excessive... 253 

" Chisel 207 

" Knife 211 

" Saw 208 

" Sheai-s, 3 Sizes 209 

Pumpkin 172 

Q. 

Quantities of various Seeds re- 
quired to sow or plant an Acre, 

Table of 496 

Quantity of Grain Seed per Acre 495 
Quince, Varieties and Culture of 420 

R. 

Rack and Gauge Wheel 45 

Radish 173 

" Forms of 173 

Rake, 3 Varieties of 56 

Rape or Colewort 175 

Raspberry 422 

" Varieties 422 

" Modes of planting 423 

" Soil for .-...' 423 

" pruning the 423 

" Frame for 424 

Red Worm, or Wire Worm Ill 

Removing Evergreens, Time and 

Mode of, &c... 492 

Removing ornamental Trees, &c. 492 

a. Practice of Nurserymen ... . 492 

b. Preparation for 492 



INDEX. 



529 



I'age 

Reproduction, Tendency to in 
Vegetables 66 

Reproduction effected principally 
in a single Channel 66 

Reproductive Tendency weaken- 
ed in certain Cases by Cultiva- 
tion 67 

Ridging Soils for Winter 22 

" Crops yO 

Road Wash 442 

Rocambole 143 Seventeen-year Locust 

Rock Work 485 Shaddock 



Page 
Selections of Varieties of the Ap- 
ple for various States 328 

a. For the Eastern and North- 
ern States 328 

b. For the Middle States 328 

c. For the Western States 329 

d. For the Southern States ... 329 
Setting out Fruit-trees 243 

" Shade and orna- 
mental Trees 492 

280 

363 



Root Pruning 255 

Root Stocks 201 

Root Worms 110 

Roquette 176 

Rose Bug 282 

Rose Compost 444 

Roses, Everblooming and Au- 
tumnal, 30 Varieties 480 

Roses, '-June" or Summer- 
blooming, 18 Varieties 480 

Roses, Running, 6 Varieties 484 

Rose Worna or Slug 482 



Saddle Grafting 229 

Sage 176 

Salsafy 176 

Sand 442 

Sashes, Size for, &c., &c 29 

Scale Insects 265 

Scions and Buds prepared for 

Budding 220 

Scissors, Flower and Seed 209 

" Grape 209 

Scorzonera 177 

Scraper, Tree 208 

Scythe, Bush 53 

" Grass 53 

Sea Kale 177 

Seed and Plant, wild, of meagre 

Growth 67 

Seed and Plant enlarged by Cul- 
tivation 67 

Seedling-'Shade Trees 487 

Seedling Stocks 204 

Seeds of Fruit-trees 204 



Shade Trees 487lSpade 



Shade Trees 437 

" Seedlings of 487 

" Selection of twenty- 
four Kinds 489 

Shallots 178 

Shape of Fruit, desirable 191 

Shears, Dressing 209 

" Pruning, 3 Sizes 209 

Shovel, 3 Forms of. 48 

Shrubs 437 

" for Green-house, 18 Kinds 467 

" hardy, 25 Kinds 477 

" climbing, 12 Kinds 483 

Shrubs, &c.. Propagation of 437 

Side Grafting .". 229 

Sieves of 2 sizes 35 

" for Flower Seeds 36 

Single Bud Grafting 228 

Size of Fruit, desirable 194 

Soapsuds Wash 284 

Soft Soap " 284 

Soils 442 

Loam 442 

Leaf Mould 442 

Peat or Swamp Muck 442 

Road Wash 442 

Sand 442 

Soils, Effect of, upon Fruits 189 

Sorel 178 

Sources of Vegetation 59 

Sour-sap Blight 261 

Sowing, Manner of 82 

" Time of 83 

" Depth of. 84 

" in Hot Bed 30 

Sowing Tube 46 



Seed Sower, Hand 46 

" Horse (or Com 

Planter) 46 

Seeds, Vitality of 67 

Selecting Fruits 100-2! Spur Pruning of the Grape 

z 



48 

Spade-fork 54 

Specific Gravity of Fruits 192 

Spinach 179 

" New Zealand 179 

350 



53U 



INDEX. 



Page I 

Squash Bug 102| 

Squash, Summer 180 

" Winter 181 

Stake Labels '••• 217 

Stakes for Grape-vines 35 1 

Steaming Green-house 476 

Stem-sucker Stocks, or Offshoots 203 
"Stock" or Character of Vege- 
tables defined 73 

Stock Knife 212 

Stock Splitter 215 

Stocks for Fruit-trees 201 

" Incongruous 201 

" Root 201 

" Sucker 202 

" Stem-sucker, or Offshoots 203 

" Layer 203 

" Seedling 204 

" for weak or irregular 

Growers 206 

Stocks for Dwarfing 206 

Stocks, suitable, prepared, bud-) 221 

ded,&c > 222 

Strawberry, the 425 

" botanical Peculiari 

tiesofthe 428 

Strawberry, Classes of the 429 

" Combination of 

Classes of the 429 

Strawberry, Difficulties in rais- 
ing the 428 

Strawberry, Farm Culture of the 427 

" Mamu-ing the 427 

" Selection of 4 Va-j ^g^ 

rieties of each Class of the, \ ^^ 
434 



249 
251 



500 
501 



496 



to each ( 



■^ith additions 

named ; 

Strawberry, Systems of Culture 

of the 425 

a. Hilling 425 

h. Bedding 426 

Straw Mats (Mode of making).. 36-7 

Stub Hoe 47 

Subsoil Plowing 23 

Succession of Flowers 446 

Sucker Stocks 202 

Sulphur Paint Wash 285 

Sulphur Wash 285 

Summer Pruning 254, 352 

Summer Savoiy 181 

Sweet Basil 182 

Sweet Marjoram 182 

Sweet Potato 182 

Syringe 34 



Table of Arrangement, Dis-") 247 
tances, Area, &c., for plant- .- 248 

ing Fruit-trees ) 

Table of Combination of Fruit-) 

trees ) 

Table of various Farm and 
Root Crops, giving estimated | 
Yield per Acre and chemic- 
al Analysis, with explana- 
tory Remarks 

Table of Quantities of various 
Seeds required to sow or plant 
an Acre, with Explanations... 

Tank 33 

Theory of Advancement in Fruits 194 

Thrust Hoe (see Hoe) 51 

Thyme 183 

Ties, various Materials for 218 

Time of Budding 223 

" Grafting 237 

Tobacco Smoke for Plants 476 

Tobacco Wash 285 

Tobacco Water Wash 284 

Tomato 183 

Tongue Grafting 234 

Training the Grape 349 

" of Fruit-trees, fan form 515 
" " " horizontal 516 

Transplanter, Flower 52 

Transplanting, Effect find Im- 
portance of to Vegetables, &c. 86 

Transplanting, Mode of final 89 

" pi-eparing seed- 
ling Vegetables for final 87 

Transplanting Flowers 445 

" Fruit-trees 243 

" shade, ornament- 

al, and evergreen Trees, &c... 492 

Tree Scraper 208 

Trees, evergreen 486 

" shade and ornamental .... 487 

Trellis for the Grape 350 

Ti-ench Plowing 23 

Trenching 23 

Trowels, Garden 52 

Tulips 449 

Turnip Bug or Fly 102 

Turnips 1^ 

Forms of 186 



V. 

Vegetable Forms, Advantages 
and Disadvantages of certain . 70 



INDEX. 



531 



F'.agc 

Vegetable Forms, Changes in.... 69 

" Importance of 69 

" Original 69 

Vegetables alphabetically ar- 
ranged for the Garden, with 

Directions for Culture, &c 114 

Vegetables, Color of 71 

" Production of new 

Varieties of 79 

Vine Borer 276 

Vitality of Seeds 67 

Continuance of 68 

Conditions of 68 

Causes which injure or de- 
stroy 68 

Various effects of weakening 68 

W. 

Washes to destroy Insects 283 

1. Brine Wash 283 

2. Soap-suds Wash 284 

3. Ley Wash 284 

4. Soft Soap Wash 284 

5. Whale-oil Soap Wash 284 



Page 

6. Tobacco Water 284 

7. Tobacco Wash (or Mixture) 285 

8. Siilphur Paint Wash 285 

9. Sulphur Wash 285 

Water Cress 188 

Watering Crops 93 

Watering Pot 34 

Whale-oil Soap Wash 284 

Wheelbarrow, Canal and Box ... 33 

Winged Insects on Fruit-trees... 280 
Wintering Green-house Plants in 

Cellar or Pit 472 

Wintering half-hardy Plants in 

Pit 28 

Winter Pears 368 

Winter Pruning Orchard 252 

" the Grape 354 

Wire Worm or Red Worm Ill 

Worms or Larvse on Fruit-trees, 

&c 266 

Worms or Larvae on Vegetables 104 

Y. 

Yellows in the Peach 262 



THE END. 



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